Thursday 6 November 2008

Passage Report 19

Kumai to Belitung to Singapore

After three months and 12 ports at as many islands, the Rally is officially coming to its conclusion. Belitung is the last reception, the final Regents dinner. It is also the last time the Fleet congregate. Singapore will see them in various marinas then being on the Sail Malaysia Rally or voyaging to various Asian ports.

Sahula is "racing" to be there. The trip entails two nights sailing through the Java Sea and Karimata Strait. The Strait is a busy shipping channel. Skipper is solo so Richard and Gloria on "Aquarius" are standing 'watch" to ensure sleep is possible. Skipper managed two hours, a record aboard.

Tanya is doing her job as the wind is still to arrive. It's a hot, oily Java Sea.

After some 12 official "Regents" dinners the last one will be special. The dinners have been a highlight of the Rally. They follow a general format.

If the venue is a Sultan's palace or traditional meeting hall or place, then there is a traditional entrance ceremony. This is by male dancers often swirling swords which end in cutting a gate built of bamboo and palm fronds. The guests then file in to be welcomed personally by the Regent, Sultan or dignitary.

Then after being seated the dancers and a traditional orchestra provide entertainment. The dances can continue for an hour or so. The dancers, young ladies and males in elaborate, colourful, traditional dress of the region, are enthralling. It is a unique benefit of the Rally that so many dancers from so many regions have been enjoyed by the Fleet. Skipper has only missed one.

At some point the Regent and other dignitaries will arrive. The entertainment then continues until the Regent's speech of welcome. This can be a rather long, political affair usually in baharsi but often in English as well or by an interpreter. A nice characteristic of official speeches is to apologise for any mistakes. It's a "safety valve." A representative of the Fleet then responds. Skipper has made a number of response speeches.

Then the dancing may continue or the dinner commences or both. Dinner is from many different dishes; all delicious. At some point the dancers invite the guests to join in the dancing. It is usually to the great hilarity of the locals. If the dinner venue is open air then it's quickly surrounded by crowds of curious locals.

After the traditional dancing the music is western "pop" so the guests dance the night away. The locals join in. It's all great fun.

The dinner is funded by the local Regency government. It's seen as a tourism marketing exercise.

The Belitung Regency reception and dinner is a superb finale. A highlight of the receptions is the dancing. It would not be possible to experience so many traditional dances of peoples across Indonesia without the Rally receptions.

There is a ripple through the fleet. The Turkish solo sailor, Oskan is diagnosed with typhoid. A death sentence to the "westerners" but to the locals no more than a health problem among many. Fortunately, the medical centre and doctor are excellent. Three days on medication and recovery is almost complete. Sahula opts to escort Oskan on his yacht, "Kayitsiz III" to Singapore.

So skipper has three extra days to enjoy beautiful Belitung. The anchorage at Kelayang is almost idyllic: clear water, white sandy beaches lined with palms and tropical jungle. Days pass snorkeling, reading, painting and meals ashore.

It's goodbye to Raymond and Dewi, the founders and organisers of the Rally. Skipper looks forward to meeting again in Bali, their home island. We're the last yachts here so they can now celebrate another Rally passing and a job well done.

It's goodbye to the Indonesian people. Their ready smiles, honesty, assistance and the "hey mister" of beautiful happy children, leaves an indelible memory.

Skipper is left to ponder why Australia isn't Indonesia's closest friend.

All Indonesian children learn English in junior school. Surely, a reciprocal "learn Baharsi," would open Australian's hearts to the joys and peoples of Indonesia.

Politics and reality seem eons apart.

There is hope. It is no surprise that Sail Indonesia 2009 already has some 200 inquiries (of which only 120 can participate).

The IndoNet (held every morning on HF radio, to sign in and swap information between Rally yachts) reports yachts colliding with logs and fishing nets while Singapore bound, so Sahula opts for day sailing only. It is a case of the best laid plans.....

Sahula then motored to Gaspar Island, careful to have day's sails so Oskan could rest. The gods didn't agree: next day blew 30 knots, rain and steep shallow water seas. Sahula and Kayitsiz III returned to Belitung's calm waters. Kayitsiz III's motor and VHF radio needed repairs. The boat has no GPS (satellite positioning system), log or depth sounder. Oskan wishes to emulate Captain Cook even though he had the latter two. His re-entry, through reefs, to Belitung was an exercise in high risk. The gods were smiling.

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Skipper is now illegal in port and probably will be illegal in Indonesian waters before Singapore. Sahula has four days to clear Indonesia.

The gods are scowling. Oskan's motor has again broken down delaying departure. Finally it's ready and we motor north, in calm conditions, into the nights inky blackness. We have two nights at sea before we anchor at Lingga Island. Lightening regularly lights the horizon.

Next morning, more black rain cells batter Sahula. Winds are 25-34 knots with steep seas. Kayitsiz III's disappears in the rain driven murk and fails to make radio contact.

Later, calm seas return. Nothing is heard or seen of Kayitsiz III.

Sahula has a second night motoring into the South China Sea. It's a major shipping route to the Pacific and Asia as well as littered with poorly lit, local fishing boats.

Skipper finds sleep in 20 minute intervals set on an oven timer. Coastal solo sailing is not for the feint hearted. Radar (with an alarm) and GPS are essential to the stress level.

Sahula sails into Lingga Island anchorage late on the third day. A meal and the skipper sinks into much needed sleep.

Morning hails "Kayitsiz III" again in contact on VHF.

We cross the equator on an oily South China Sea. The second crossing for "Kayitsiz III." A first for Sahula. The second will be in the Pacific enroute to Patagonia, years and many adventures hence. We celebrate at Mesdnak Island.

Fishing boats speed past. A sailor could know the vessels location solely by knowing the traditional design of the local fishing boats. Boats here have a long prow quite unlike others seen.

Sahula is anchored off Batu Besar on Batam Island having passed through the Riau Strait separating Batam and Bintan Islands... Jet airliners fly overhead, factories line the shore, huge ships fill the Singapore Straits. It is a long way from Alor's picturesque fjord or from Lombata, Flores, Lombok, Bali, Kalimun Java, Kumai or Belitung... This is the new or future Indonesia, where industry flexes its strength providing for the teeming millions aspiring to western lifestyles.

Its test is whether the culture, the lifestyle balance, the smiles and family life of the "other" Indonesia can survive in the "new" or wants to?

Kayitsiz III and Sahula enjoy sundowners recounting the Rally's three marvelous months in the "other."

Tomorrow Sahula crosses the 12 nm of the Singapore Straits to Malaysia's Sabana Cove Marina. New adventures begin.

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