Sahula Passage Report 33
Fethiye to Sigacik
Sept, 2009
It was time. Fethiye provided good memories but the journey must continue.
Richard (US) on Moonshadow and Sahula sailed to Kizilkuyruk Koyu anchorage in Fethiye Korfesi (gulf). Richard and partner Anita had met skipper in Townsville 4 years ago. Anita is home in the US, Richard is at a loose end. A talented singer, musician and hiku writer.
Kizilkuyruk offered clear water but also crowded anchorage. Skipper needed time out before the voyage north.
The crowded anchorage offered a challenge in deep water, stern line anchoring. Irfan (Turk sailor, retired businessman) dived in to take a line ashore. Sahula had not previously used over 60 m of anchor chain and added rope. The shore lines are a criss-crossing web. Sahula is 3-4 m (10-15 feet) from the neighbouring boat. Only boats leaving find out if the anchor chains cross.
Irfan and wife Ozlem (Istanbul - retired businessman), invited us for drinks which included a Turkish meal and, inter alia, political conversation.
What fascinates Skipper is the lack of information or education when in Australia, on this country. All that is heard is the problems on Israel. Skipper's interest in local politics is aroused.
Turkish politics is complex, reflecting a long history at the cross roads of European and Asian civilization. Its borders with Iraq, Iran, Syria, Armenia Greece, Bulgaria and Georgia, add to the complexity.
It is not possible to understand the multiple strands of Turk politics in Skipper's short visit. However, it is interesting to observe from the viewpoint of visitor's "fresh page." The views may change in time.
Conspiracy theories abound. The current government is perceived as driven by Washington who is secretly promoting a separatist Kurdistan to secure oil resources thus undermining the unity of the Turkish state and moving towards an Islamic government.
Two other "US" scenarios have evolved: there is an all powerful Islamic Iman in the US who is directing the current Government and PM. The Iman focus is an Islamic revolution throughout the world. He is building schools to prepare the people all around the world, including Australia. Another is that there is a group of private US corporations and businessmen who control all world events. They have been preparing Obama for President for years. These views are related by tertiary educated young people.
Democracy in Turkey is relatively new - from around late 1980's (last army coup). The army holds a special position. Attaturk, the post-WWI, esteemed army general (lead Turk forces at Gallipoli) and President (photo in every home, business and prominent billboards), apparently supported the army as the upholder of the constitution and secularism. Attaturk is revered for chartering the direction that underwrites the modern Turkish state. By all accounts a truly amazing individual.
Turkey aspires to join the European Union. A part of the application is peace with the Kurd minority and unification of Cyprus. The current government is driving a peace process with each issue and improving strained relations with Armenia (alleged Armenian massacre). The middle class perceive this as driven by the US. Turkey's US paranoia is the highest in the region. This view places a particular Turkish interpretation of "democracy." Instead of accepting that democratic change can only come about by free elections, the middle class, while supporting peace and democracy, seem to ultimately accept that change maybe by military coup.
Retired generals, businessmen, politicians are currently on trial for a proposed violent coup to depose the current government.
This plot is viewed as merely a construct of the current government seeking to discredit the army and its middle class supporters
Skipper reads the "Today's Zaman," a daily English language newspaper dedicated mostly to reporting politics. It presents a government upholding and nurturing democracy. The Prime Minister's reported speech on Independence Day contained support for all the essential principles of democracy. Middleclass friends exclaim the paper is a tool of the Government and the religious right. The Prime Minister is allegedly guilty of double speak.
Skipper has not met any educated, middle class or small business people, who support the current Government yet they are not supporters of the Opposition. They are not involved in active politics other than to discuss it. The Opposition is perceived as extreme conservatives, right wing, and lead by old men.
To Skipper, it seems Turkey needs time to nurture a nascent democracy and develop a credible alternative government. The armed forces remain barrack bound but at times commenting on political issues. There is substantial debate over the army's role in politics.
In the meantime, Turkey is a peaceful, prosperous modern state. A joy to visit to experience its friendly, colourful, people, ancient history and beautiful scenery.
Two mausoleums in ruins, dominate the parched valley of the ancient city of Lydae, a half hour uphill walk from the anchorage. A constant query is "Why here?"
Richard previously has met Lydae's sole residents; Muftu (the goat herder) and his family. His family have been here for generations. Their farmhouse is basic in contrast to the substantial buildings that were Lydae. Access is by a walk and boat to Fethiye or Gocek. It is a serene, ancient, isolated, place. His wife makes shawls, bags and wooden utensils. Honey, bread and thyme tea is also on sale. We enjoy tea and buy some shawls, honey and bread.
Moonshadow leaves for Fethiye. Skipper remains taking time out before sailing to Bodrum. Time is needed to meet other cruisers and glean information on the journey ahead. Skipper has a day painting modern works that contrast the colour of the sea to the olive trees and sky.
Evening drinks and meal with Chris and Barbara of UK.
Winlink isn't responding. Skipper cannot receive weather reports or emails. Deep frustration.
It didn't seem possible, a whale off Turkey. There it was, huge in size, tail surfacing, breath steaming.
The weather pattern seems settled: morning calm, mid morning wind rises, by afternoon it blows to 20-25 knots and always on the "nose" when heading north (west). It's the fabled "Meltemi." It blows a strong NW'ly (and follows the coast) in summer (July, August) and eases in September. Sahula leaves early morning hoping she is anchored in mid morning calm.
Sahula has left the Lycian Coast (Marmaris to Antalya) passing to the Carian Coast: Bodrum to Marmaris. She seeks shelter in Gerbekse. A swinging anchorage (Guide) in soft mud. It is crowded (Gulets, day trip boats) so poor holding dictate stern lines, testing Skippers skills. A katabatic wind drives down, from steep rocky mountains, in early evening testing the lines.
Skipper stays another day (average two days in each anchorage) to explore and sketch and swim in clear water. The ruins of a small Byzantine church provides an ideal sketch topic. The copula and windows border a superb coastal vista.
Lesley and Mike invite Skipper for drinks. Mike, a recently retired UK fireman and Lesley cruise the Med each summer.
Fellow cruisers readily provide information on the cruise ahead.
Evening "welcomed" the Meltemi sweeping down off the mountain. Skipper watched anxiously as Sahula swung to 3m and near shallower rocks. Another anchor was considered but with a steady depth and darkness, the decision was to stay. However, the Admiralty anchor was dug out of the lazarette and made ready on the 100m rope. It remains tied to the stern rail, ready for use. The wind lessened over night.
Morning, the Meltemi was NW was light and blowing Sahula off the rocks but along the shore. Skipper had either to re-anchor or leave. The sinkable stern line (floating line is needed) caught under a rock so a neighbouring sailor released it while Skipper stood ready with Tanya (motor). The solo sailor always welcomes assistance whenever offered or sought.
Sahula left for Bozuk Buku, three hours away along a spectacular limestone cliff coast.. A Hellenistic walled citadel marked the entrance.
Sahula rested on a swinging anchor. Full astern ensured the anchor was firm in the weed and sand.
Anchorages in Turkey are at best mud (often soft) but more commonly sand and weed. The latter varying to impregnably thick. The best option is a bow anchor and stern line to shore. While a dragging anchor is less likely with this option it does not eliminate it if wind is abeam. However, there remains the issue of attaching and releasing the stern line/s. Hard enough with two but problematic with one.
With two, one can swim the line ashore or back. With one, leaving the boat unattended requires a dinghy. A solo sailor has to attach (or detach) the line and return to the boat before it drifts away from the shore then tighten (or pull in) the stern line. One crew advised they stayed in reverse however this option when solo could mean a boat ashore.
Most boats anchor with two lines ashore. However, one only is often sufficient. If two they need to be spaced to counter swing. If the same rock "bollard" is used then releasing requires pre-arranged assistance the next morning.
Sahula always departs in the calmness of dawn, anchoring some three hours later, ideally, before the afternoon Meltemi picks up and the fleet comes in to nest. It can be pandemonium as boats jockey for crowded space. Inexperienced charter yachts add pepper. Gulets add brute bullying. Anchor chains criss-cross the sea floor and a boat spun web of shore lines, add interest to morning departures.
Add to all the summer restaurant owners cajoling newly arrivals with a free wharf or buoy. Today a "new" mooring buoy broke from a 45 footer.
It's a case of the "...early bird catches the worm" and "patience...a virtue..." and caution, a necessity.
During an evening walk in the ruins of ancient Loryma, skipper noticed an oven in recent use by Ikat, wife of a fisherman. Skipper "ordered" fresh oven baked bread (Ikmek) for the morning. It was delivered by a pretty daughter. It cost 5 lira a loaf, small compensation for Itak's hard work of supplying timber to the oven from a rocky barren landscape.
The surviving ruins, scattered over the hills, are mainly walls made from perfectly rectangular large blocks. Skipper wonders at the engineering to cut and place these huge blocks required in their many hundreds.
There is always some fact to compare life to. Peter on Coolchange topped most. Peter is (or was) a solo sailor on a 26 foot Canadian yacht. The Red Sea ushered in his troubles. While asleep Coolchange rammed into an island destroying the bowsprit and putting a hole in the hull. The engine responded and he made it to a beach, affected repairs, under the protective watch of fellow Vasco de Gama rally participants.
The latest news is that while sailing towards Cyprus, with is wife, Coolchange collided with a container ship. They abandoned the yacht. and were rescued by an oil tanker and helicopted to port. They flew home to Canada.
Coolchange was not giving up. She drifted into Israeli waters where the Navy was about to blow her up as a suspect terrorist target loaded with explosives. Second thoughts checked with air sea rescue and found her true story.
The latest is Peter is considering returning to claim her and presumably continue his round world voyage. What his wife thinks is not on current reports.
Fortunately Skipper phoned Yilmaz. He and wife Belma, where on their yacht, Sirene (32feet) at Palamut Harbour on the Datca Peninsula. Sahula was off Simi Island heading in their direction.
Stern anchoring in a natural harbour is a challenge. Doing so in a busy, small walled harbour in the afternoon Meltemi, upped the anti. Sahula after two attempts to place the anchor so the bow was perpendicular to the stone wharf, managed the exercise without leaving red (hull paint) on the wharf or Sirene.
A picturesque small village, Palumut and meeting good friends was worth the stress. A hot shower added to satisfaction. Sahula topped up with water and was washed off.
An evening with good friends in the Limani Restaurant added spice. Sirene sailed off east to the Hisaronu Gulf, Sahula, and west to Knidos.
Knidos "... one of the Dorian hexapolis: the six cities of the Dorian Confederacy. The city was prosperous..." with the harbour well placed for passing trade. It was famous for the first nude statue of a female: Aphrodite. It was believed to bring good fortune to seafarers (Guide). Much of the ruins (main street, temples, agora, and theatre) survive. The statue has passed into mythology. Knidos must have been a beautiful city (adorned in white marble) in its hey day. Skipper climbs the nearby hills tracing the huge city wall over several kilometers.
Sahula is anchored in Knidos's west harbour protected by the ancient breakwater. It's raining and windy, not good conditions for a crowded anchorage reputed to be poor holding. Night envelopes anxious skippers. It is the first rain for Skipper since India.
A night storm comes in from Greece. The southerly wind (normally NW) drives directly into the harbour. Many yachts drag anchors. It is chaos. Excited night voices announce a collision or threat.
Sahula is in danger. The wind (lighting, thunder, rain and pitch blackness) has increased (24 knots) stretching the 50 m (11 m depth) of chain to place her almost under the huge bowsprit of a gulet now directly astern. The anchor is holding. Skipper faces a night on anchor watch with no sleep till daylight. The Gulet captain refuses to move. He claims his chain stretches to under a large private motor yacht. Skipper takes flash photos of the gulet's bow spit. The Gulet skipper demands why? Skipper informs him that unless some action is taken the matter may result in Skipper suing him. Skipper (Sahula) suggests Sahula have fore and aft shore lines attached with the assistance of the Gulet crew. Gulet skipper readily agrees. Sahula is much happier. Skipper maintains a watch till daybreak.
In the midst of the exercise, the yacht ahead drags its anchor and drifts onto Sahula's (steel) bow. Chaos reigns. The yacht skipper is in panic. Skipper directs the yachts skipper to go full ahead to port. He does and after much grinding, splitting of plastic fittings on his yachts stern and catching Sahula's anchor chain, she is free to head into the night to re-anchor. Sahula is unharmed. At last the gods seem to be smiling. The morning light can't come quick enough.
Again the lesson is clear: yachts with shore lines have less problems than those on a swinging anchor in places with poor holding. Another option is to moor at a restaurant jetty. However, the latter must first question its condition the impact of wave action. Yachts at the Knidos jetty had to leave in the midst of the storm.
Skipper's masterstroke is to have, port and starboard, two rope drums (with handles for winding the rope onto the drum) aft, each with 100m rope. They verge on essential items in Turkey (Mediterranean) for safe, easy working of shore lines. The rope should be capable of floating. Sahula's sinkable ropes when slack, catch on underwater rocks.
Nothing aboard is more important than having clear sight. Glasses always are a risk. During a short sleep this morning, Skipper broke the ear piece on his titanium (unbreakable) glasses.
A cruiser must be resilient. Skipper had two previous glasses one of which had an ear piece similar to the current set. Using a small vice, a magnifying glass, file and minute screw driver, the old was converted to the new.
Lesson: carry spares of glasses ear pieces or old glasses for conversion, spare glasses tiny screws, small vice, optometrist's screwdriver and small stainless wire (to wire parts) and if all else fails, the previous glasses.
Seven Islands sounded romantic enough and it enclosed a harbour large enough to have space for all. At least that is what Skipper thought when Sahula was securely anchored in North Cove with no other boats. But Sahula was in the Gulets anchorage. How does a skipper know? There are no signs other than it is a pretty spot. Perhaps the ring barking of the trees by stern lines rapped taut from Gulets, was evidence.
The evidence is in the nesting hour (late afternoon) and with it two large gulets (6 more came later). They could have anchored away from Sahula as the bay was empty but their ring barked trees entitled possession and in they came to within 20-30 feet (8-10 m) either side of Sahula. As well their anchor chain crossed Sahula's. The serenity was over or at least now enjoyed with over 40 people aboard two gulets (over 120 with 6). Sahula was alone but only as the sole yacht in the "gulets anchorage." The alternative was to join charter yachts in the "charter yacht" anchorage. Anchorages have become gulet or charter yacht theme parks. The result of an increasingly crowded, leisure seeking world that encourages the mass over the individual.
Turkey as a cruising ground in summer (July to September) is not for those that want to be alone or with limited others, in serene, isolated anchorages. Suffering massed gulets or massed charter yachts or both, in crowded anchorages is a major part of the Turkey cruising experience.
Sadun Boro (82) is the ancient mariner of Turkey. His yacht, "Kismet," (to be featured later in a museum) is in Okluk, Degirmen Gulf in Gokova Korfezi (gulf). In it he was the second Turk to circumnavigate. He has also written a guide to cruising Turkey and three other sailing books. Sahula is anchored with stern lines in Okluk. Kayitsiz III, Ozkan's yacht is similarly moored further along the inlet. Kayitsiz III is the eighth Turkish yacht to circumnavigate.
Skipper met Sadun Boro while he was in discussion with a representative of the Turkey's marine environmental NGO. Sadun has fought for the environmental integrity of this region for most of his life. He is the icon of the movement. He is now a frail, testy, pleasantly welcoming senior. The meeting and discussion brings back Skipper's memories of a similar life protecting the World Heritage, Great Barrier Reef.
English Harbour in Turkey has an odd ring. The English special boat group in WWII were based in the bay. It is a superb anchorage very well protected. It is a dinghy ride from Okluk's restaurants and supplies. It would be an ideal wintering over anchorage while living aboard.
Skipper in a long walk (bee hive "alley") ended up at Kecr inlet and the Gokova Sailing School, hotel and marina. The centre was established by a wealthy Turk businessman to train Turk sailors in dinghies and yachts.
Skipper completes a small watercolour of Hinewai and starts a painting of Kayitsiz III.
Ozkan arrives in Okluk to join Kayitsiz III.
Paddy and Caroline (Kristiane - Australia) have been cruising friends since Indonesia. They arrived in Okluk from Greece. Caroline reveled in the green forests after arid Greek islands. Bon homme required Skippers well preserved bottle of Australian, "Asti" champagne.
Rurr (plays bassoon in the Istanbul Orchestra) and his family sail into Okluk. They know Ozkan and join Skipper, Paddy and Caroline for an meal ashore.
Cokertme (18nm from Okluk) is home to many octopus. They hide in small, self made, "caves" on the sea bed.) Ozkan seeks one out and after 100 beatings on a rock and immediate cooking (add olive oil and lemon) it is a very tender, delicious meal.
Skipper isn't a keen hunter. The catch requires reaching into their cave to extract it while it entwines its tentacles around the arm, in its last fight for survival
The Rose Mary restaurant is owned by a friend of Ozkan. Skipper meets Irhan who provides valuable "clues" to unraveling Turkish. After Irhan departs Skipper orders a glass of water using "Sut." The staff looked perplexed. Skipper is served a glass of milk. Water is "Su." Skipper is too embarrassed to refuse it.
The owner and friends prevail upon Skipper in good humour, to not read the Zaman because to do so distorts the "truth."
Sahula is motorsailing into a 20 plus Meltemi in the Bodrum Bogazi (strait) between Kos (Greece) and the coast enroute to Gumusluk. Ashore the coastal "beauty" is defiled by a mass of two storey, white boxes that litter the hillsides in their thousands. It is the developers and architects "art" at their worst.
Gumusluk, is a small village that stands over ancient Myndos and alongside its well protected harbour. In the evening it is alive with its many restaurants. Eating and camaraderie are at the soul of Turkish life. Skipper tests Raki (the Turkish equivalent of Greek Ouzo) and comes away unscathed.
Skipper and Ozkan share time with Aysegul (artist and jazz singer) and Nazih, a guitar musician. Aysegul has an exhibition of her water colours. She is a very creative artist.
Gemal, a guide and cook on the Karkar Mountains trek, is in Bodrum. He comes aboard to sail to Kusadasi. Skipper trades "english" for lessons in Turkish. Gemal is a free agent, as guide, cook, jack of all trades, horse ranch and vineyard staffer, at times.
Samos Island (Greece), is a mere (strait's) mile from the Turkish coast as Sahula motor sails to Kusadasi. It's reputation is strong winds and water over falls. It is calm for Sahula's passage. The coastal view is an ugly mass of white "boxes." Ozkan has been invited to the Kusadasi marina. Skipper assumes (wrongly) that the invitation includes a free berth .
Kusadasi is a large city and home to the first high rise (10 to 20 stories) seen along coastal Turkey. Its centre is a mass of tourist shops surrounded by the old town further on the hill. It is a major port for passenger liners cruising the Aegean. We attend a marina sponsored photography exhibition (superb) in the marina gallery and later, a dinner.
Next day Skipper is in a carpet shop learning about silk carpets. They change colour viewed from different angles. A small carpet is expensive at $900 (Aust). Fortunately, Sahula has no space.
Gemal departs for his next adventure. A good crew and friend.
The marina is expensive (28 Euros /62 TL/$60 Austn, a night) but with the usual facilities. Manager advises it is full. At night the nearby nightclubs ensure sleep is difficult. Skipper assiduously avoids marinas as the expensive equivalent of caravan parks.
A strong meltemi is expected in Sigacik Korfezi (Gulf) so Sahula and Kayitsiz III depart at daybreak. An early land breeze provides good sailing but later pipes in at 25 knots. Sahula motor sails (two reefs and staysail into a short, "white", sea) to anchor for a few days at Sarpdere Koyu, an inlet west of Sigacik. Kayitsiz III is expected at Sigacik on the 1st October for an official welcome.
Sahula calls on the way at Kirkdilim Limani. A beautiful remote inlet beset by a strong meltemi upgraded by the katabatic effect of the surrounding mountains.
Sarpdere provides a protected anchorage in the east inlet with good holding. (3-5 metres). Ozkan demonstrates meltemi anchoring by reversing full speed on a long chain then taking it in to suit the anchorage. At night the Meltemi reaches 30 knots off nearby mountains. It changes direction in accord with the geography and strength. Sleep is fitful.
Dawn is calm, clear sunshine. Sahula is anchored in clear, turquoise blue water with a white rock, mountain backdrop. Skipper does a coloured pencil sketch of the landscape.
Skipper takes a long walk into the gorge between the mountains following an ancient goat track.
Daily the hills resound to the sound of music from bells on a large goat herd. The herd seek salt ashore, before "tinkling" up into the hills.
A call from Thomas (Nahda Brahma, Indonesian Rally) to meet later in Bodrum.
The octopus are again under threat. Ozkan catches two and cooks a delicious pasta and octopus meal.
Swimming requires a wetsuit. Evenings require a jumper and doona.
Fish farms in large floating cages located in the bay, are concerning locals, keen to protect their beautiful coastline. Gokkovar Limani, a beautiful fjord, used as a shore base, is lost to environmental insensitivity.
A mermaid finds Ozkan. Skipper has had his faith restored in Turk architects by Serhat and Onur (student). By a fortunate coincidence Serhat's partner, Sema noticed Kayitsiz III (rafted alongside Sahula) while swimming in a Sigacik Korfezi bay. Sema knows Ozkan. A superb meal by Sema and red wine at Serhat's house and office set in a hillside village in his vineyard and containing his wine cellar. Serhat's designs in timber and stone are noted for their blending in the environment. His house and office evidence his creativity.
It's the end of a journey. Sahula enters Sigacik. Ozkan has a Mayoral reception so Kayitsiz III is met by the official party, the press and guests. Sahula moors astern and Skipper is welcomed also. A lunch is also provided. The marina is in construction phase so Sahula and Kayitsiz III are its only yachts till April next year.
Skipper is asked his age three times by curious locals. They are amazed to find it's 62 years.
Skipper reflects upon the adventures in arriving here. Almost two years and a third of the world, since leaving Townsville in December 2007. It is a fortunate life.
David
Sigacik, Turkey
1st October, 2009
