Passage Report No 36 Sigacik No.2

Sahula Passage Report No. 36

Sigacik No. 2.

Skipper is in R&R from the Lycian Walk. Good food, good company soon builds the mind and body to consider the winter work. There is much to be done.

A full interior hull rust check, lighten up (used in 12 months or out), re-do interior paint and varnish, new taps galley and loo, a shower (?), heater etc. The list goes on.

The winter storms boom overhead. In between Skipper does a rust check and "lighten up" in the lazarette. Inspired by Ozkan's work team (two) on Kayitsiz III doing an interior paint and varnish over a sunny weekend, Skippers opts to prioritise Sahula's.

Ozkan in Izmir brings the necessary resources. Skipper has no "team" but the sun shines, a weekend is allotted and work begins. The old rule (multiply by three) soon applies; a week then two... For the whole time the mess becomes chaos. Soon Sahula's living space contracts to a loo and aft cabin.

Cruising requires adjustment to local conditions. Varnish and acrylic, water based paint in matt or satin, is rare (unless black or white). Local shops supply only oil based, one coat, gloss paint. They come in a limited colour range. Varnish is very effectively removed by paint remover and a stainless steel plate.

Ataturk passed away (aged 57) at 0905 on 10th November, 1938. At this time, those many Turks who idolize him and his achievements stand to attention sounding horns for minute. Skipper was photographer for Ozkan and his friends who beside Kayitsiz, flying a Turk flag bearing Ataturk's image, stood rigidly to attention. It is a reminder to Government to respect his achievements and principles. Large rallies perhaps sent the message that secularism is perceived as under threat by an allegedly Islamic leaning government.

Skipper completes a book on the Ottoman Empire 1300 - 1600 which extended in a "crescent" from Persia to Crimea, Austria, Iraq and Egypt, Sudan, northern Africa to Morocco. It controlled the trading routes from Asia and India to Europe. It underlines Turkey's cultural and historical complexity. This was the golden Ottoman period. After, the Empire declined till deposed by Ataturk's Republic in the early 1900's. The Ottoman centuries colour much of Turkey today. The Sultans stood at the apex of a highly centralized bureaucracy (based upon slavery) and a war machine. The administrations strength was continually vacillating due to weak or strong sultans, Islamic political fervour, boundary sustaining and expanding wars and the difficulty of managing a culturally and socially diverse empire bounded by competing forces of other empires, Shahs and Khans. It is said its decline was mostly due to the eventual dominance of Islam and the resulting closure to ideas and innovation.

Skipper will read about the next era: 1600 - 1900 which ends with the Republic.

Conversation reveals yet another political conspiracy theory: the USA has a grand long term plan to ensure a weakened Turkey apparently to ensure access to oil and minerals in eastern Turkey. Eastern Turkey is largely a Kurd area. What interests Skipper is not the existence of the conspiracy theories but the intense belief in them by educated Turks. It seems paranoia politics is part of a complex political life in Turkey.

Skipper is driven by Ozkan to visit his family's summer house on Izmir Bay. Ozkan laments the lost jewels of his boyhood when the surrounding marine and forest environment was pristine unspoilt by today's rampant suburban development. The destruction is worse due to the lack of modern planning and environmental regulations. These are due in the near future but in the meantime ugly architecture marks the coastline.

Skipper meets John, owner of an LED light shop in Izmir. He is fitting lights to Ozkan's boat. Skipper decides to "go" LED. LED lights use very little power, saving the batteries.

The stove is showing signs of rust and wear. Ozkan installs a new stainless steel two burner and oven stove hand built in the by Izmir "artisans" in a small workshop in the old market. It is an excellent example of their craft. However, it does not have the safety features of marine stoves. Skipper opts for security and "mends" the "old" stove...

Mustafa of Istanbul calls by to meet Skipper. He and partner Nour (Turkish traditional music singer) enjoy dinner and talk of his yachts in Brazil and Bodrum and plans to circumnavigate.

Mustafa of Marmaris calls by to meet Skipper. He is a retired engineer living on his Van de Stadt in Marmaris. He admires Sahula.

Sahula is worth admiring or at least the newly varnished and painted saloon, galley and navigation area. The varnish returns the timber to its original golden aurora. The bulkheads are painted a light cream yellow.

A small electric blower heater is aboard powered by free electrical power from Sahula's hosts.

So many "wants," so little finance - how to decide? Skippers "method" is to mull over it, feed on it, no rush, again and again till the neurons at peace, decide. Does Sahula need a diesel heater? They're expensive and require cruising in cold climates when "where to" is much at whim. Patagonia, Norway, England - they all seem so distant. Find a principle - what is the cruise for: a circumnavigation or an enjoyable sail on global waters? Skipper started on the former but has changed to the latter. Let the future look after itself.

The French canals, northern Europe, Scandinavia are nearby. They win the whim. Skipper dreams of sailing his ship into the Solent and a past life at the Southampton School of Navigation on the Hamble River.

Winters above 40 degrees north need little deliberation. Skipper decides to install a Sigmar 100 bulkhead mounted, diesel heater. The problem now is to buy one. There are none in Turkey. However, Turkish customs could substantially increase the price. West Marine (USA) offers the lowest price and agrees to send it to their Istanbul shop.

In the peace of the night (without TV or radio), the mind turns to "where to." Scandinavian cruisers (met on the Rallys) email back information. Jim Connells, "World Cruising Routes" has a detailed section. The mind waxes, plans are circulated, excitement grows. It is one of the cruising life delights to contemplate and evolve, a voyage. The endless fjords and Northern Lights conjure paintings. David Lewis, an icon of extreme voyages in cold climates, is read for his transits of the North Atlantic.

Skipper continues the interior rust check, moving through each compartment. Each area is cleaned and any rust treated. Sahula has no longitudinal "stringers" (frames are every 18 inches) so topside interior rust will show as runs at the base.

When Skipper bought Sahula, she had a tiled floor in the loo with no access to the hull. After treating rust, Skipper replaced it with a removable fiberglass floor. After four years it is now removed, rust spots treated and the loo repainted to "egg" blue. Skipper has an aversion to white. It is only on the deck head (ceiling).

Skipper is doing a "toss out if not useful" on all gear, food and papers. Some institute a "not used in 12 months" rule but there are exceptions. Often that "never used" thing saves the day. "Necessities" accumulate on a long voyage.

Skipper Turkish language "lessons" (30 lessons in Turkish book) are slow to return results. Turks talk quickly and rarely reply in the set piece answers given in the lessons. The limited "lesson" vocabulary is swamped by the huge actual vocabulary. However, the Turks delight when an Australian talks their language is palpable.

Set amongst the vineyards, near the hill top, farming village of Yagcilar, is Sema and Serhat's timber home and office. It is a fine, sunny, autumn day.

Sema is the "mermaid" who swam out to Ozkan's boat when anchored there prior to Sigacik. Serhat, an architect, designs houses, using local materials of timber and stone. Onur is Serhat's English fluent student. They make their own organic red wine and live an environmentally sound life. Serhat's model Spanish galleon "floats," suspended, in his village, stone, "second" home and Sema's art studio.

Skipper had two days to revel in their hospitality and surroundings.

Sahita (Shi) and Alev, lady friends of Sema's, are artists. They offer to guide Skipper around Izmir's art community and galleries.

Skipper met the locals, walked the forest trails and completed a colour pencil sketch of the autumn tinted vineyards.

The imminent expiry of Skipper's second visa three months required another trip to Greece. The "trip" became a trap for winter players.

The early morning Tuesday taxi, Sigacik to the Cesme ferry terminal was expensive. Lonely Planet stated: 0900 departure, Tuesday and Saturday. Signs outside a Cesme ticket office declared,"Daily ferry to Chios." Skipper purchased a ticket (65 TL in Turkey, maybe 65 Euro in Chios). Chai passed the time. Skipper was soon aware of its whimsical abundance.

"No ferry today, tomorrow!" There are no ferries on Tuesday or Thursday.

Skipper became Cesme's sole winter tourist of the Genoese castle and museum. In 1770, waters off Cesme were the site of a major naval battle. The British and Russians destroyed the Turk fleet thus opening Russian access to the Mediterranean via the Dardanelles (later the Sultan built forts at the Dardanelles entrance again blocking Russian access).

The Lazy Bee pension provided hospitable accommodation (25 TL B&B). At 1730, next day, Skipper stood on the Ferry bridge recalling memories of an early life at sea. The Turk agent and ticket confirmed the ferry returned, next morning at 0830.

Winter darkness enveloped Chios. Skipper did not expect to see much of it. "Rooms for Let" were 25 Euro (some 50 TL without breakfast). Chios was a bustle of traffic past empty waterfront bars and cafes. The ancient walled city occupies the northern side. A mosque testifies to its Turkish past. The bells ring at sunset.

Up early and to the terminal: "No ferry today, tomorrow!"

Skipper became Chios's sole winter tourist. The sun shined on a cool, clear day. Good things come from the unexpected.

Hospitable "Chians" advised a public bus trip to Mesta and Pyrgi, both medieval farming villages. Mesta is one of the "rare (totally preserved) castle villages in the world." The houses form a city wall enclosing ancient houses along a maze of narrow, stone laid, alleyways and arcades sometimes enclosed by archways. Pyrgi, another medieval village (with 50 churches) is a maze of alleyways between houses decorated by complex geometric designs etched in black and white (called "xysta" or "scraped").

Skipper notes there is no division in women's fashion in Chios. The Islamic veil and conservative dress, are not part of Greek culture.

Next morning at 0830 (another night at the "Rooms"), Skipper again stood on the ferry bridge. Cesme Immigration stamped a three month visa.

"I am coming to visit you in two hours." Skipper was departing a Cesme - Izmir bus and missed the name. It was Dogan and his wife and daughter. He is a retired naval captain. Skipper met him at a Piri Reis (marina NGO) occasion. Turk hospitality knows no end. It is Bayram - an Islamic public holiday (4 days). Skipper was given a gift of baklava and treated to chai and lunch. A lovely welcome back to Turkey.

Bayram is celebrated by families dining together. Traditionally, a goat or sheep (sheep is preferred) was slaughtered for the occasion. It celebrates the prophet, Abraham killing a sheep instead of his son. Skipper passed a well attended, animal market. Officially, the slaughter is to be done by a butcher but the edict is ignored: passing through a village, many sheep, newly killed, were being dressed for meals. An escalation in beast price (500 - 1000 TL) has restrained this years slaughter.

Skipper completed painting the loo in "egg blue" oil paint. The paints odour below was a problem.

Yilmuz (Belma, his wife) a Turk friend (first met in Townville aboard Ozkan's boat), invited Skipper to his summer house in the hills, near Urla. They have an Izmir home as well. Yilmuz is a "2/3 retired" businessman. Superb Turk food and hospitality including chai at the nearby ancient fishing village (where they harbour their 10 m. yacht). Returning on the crowded "otobus" (bus) to Seferihisar and Sigacik, a young man gave Skipper his seat. Skipper is again reminded of the good manners of Turks as well as his age!!

The "summer house" phenomenon is, generally, evidence of wealth. The "winter" house is usually an apartment in the nearby city. The "summer" house is usually a country or coastal, free standing, large, house. It is most likely, one of a similar design, in a gated (with guard) estate. The estates blight the countryside. The "summer" houses may be occupied for only a few months a year. They (and large European cars - usually black), are, for many, status symbols in a capitalist economy.

Winter rains return after weeks of cool, sunny days. Skipper works inside Sahula.

Skipper reads "A Peace to end all Peace - The fall of the Ottoman Empire and the Creation of the Modern Middle East," David Fromkin, 1989. It highlights a number of points: the "Great Powers" post WW I designs on the precarious post Ottoman, Turkey "State;" Ataturk's providential rise; the Middle East's lack of religious, cultural and political cohesion in the pre-WWI era that allowed arrogant European (devoid of universal human rights principles) carving of the modern States; an insight into the inherent problems in current Turk and Middle East politics.

Skipper sensed something wasn't right. The electrical plug from shore power seemed to spark, maybe it was a loose plug. Then the heater died with a burnt plastic odour. Skipper called the electrician but he came the next day. In the meantime a red light beamed out of the plug. A plug fizzed black and Skipper's finger burned pink. Then the grinder died. The electrician came; shore power was plugged into Red; not Blue. Red was for 380 volts industrial use. The Angels sang...

Lief and Eva, Swede cruising friends, so liked the colourful acrylic that Skipper gave it to them. An email shows it framed in their home. Skipper glows warm to know that in Sweden, a painting of Australia has a good home.

The deck needs painting. Skipper asks Sigacik chandlery for four litres. "Not standard colour (red, blue, white, black), no four litres, only 200 litres" !! Small lots are from the car repairers in the local "sunayi" or light industrial area.

Day dawns calm and sunny. Annalise phones for a long chat. The world is a small and smaller place. Skipper often wonders at the family cost of cruising. The "ether" ameliorates but cannot replace the face to face.

Next Report No. 37 - "Sigacik No. 3"

Best

David

Passage Report No. 35 Lycian Walk

Sahula Passage Report No. 35

Lycian Way - October 2009

Reading: The Lycian Way - Kate Clow 3rd Ed, April 2009

Book is essential. Includes map.

Pre-walk track and accommodation update is available on the website.

www.trekkinginturkey.com

www.lycianway.com

Photos are on Facebook.

"Clow and her faithful billhook have spent years clearing the scrub from ancient Roman roads and mule trails of pilgrims and miners, invaders and shepherds. ...she has stitched them into a 300 mile trail between Fethiye and Antalya which switches alluringly between high pastures and shore side villages, historical ruins and mountain summits." Seal, Sunday Times, 2002.

"...this...is an area with a rich and crowded past...the whole Aegean and Mediterranean coast of Asia Minor...was colonized by the Greeks from early in the millennium BC and subject to a distinctly Hellenistic influence...Lycia, in particular, enjoyed a period of ascendancy and a unique culture between the 6th and 4th centuries BC, before falling into the hands of Alexander the Great's successors and then the Romans. Later, Arabs, Crusaders, Genoese, and Armenians established themselves along its length. Traces of all these hands are visible still, and nowhere more so than along this path, their romance and charm enhanced by the fact so many of the sites are unfenced and unticketed, the old stones just lying there naturally among the scrub and goat pastures." Salmon, Sunday Times, 2000.

The easiest part of cruising is cruising. The hardest part is to leave "her" and head off inland. Harder still is to go trekking and camping. Yet the hardest part is the most rewarding. There is no equal to absorbing the country at walkers pace and meeting the villagers in their places. Perhaps, fortunately, few do it.

To do or not to do has often wrecked havoc in the adventurous mind. It was raining in Sigacik. Kristiane (Paddy and Caroline) advised it was fine in Fethiye.

It was go. Packed, repacked - lighten to survive. There would be no Karkar Mountain surprises. The only mule was Skipper. Gear included a bivvy bag, sleeping bag, mossie net, utensils, wet weather gear, clothes, etc, tuned to sleeping out or in. It was heavy but... Bus out to Fethiye - the adventure begins.

Tan Pansion's (25 TL B& B) balcony provided vistas of Fethiye's marina. A final repack sent a package to Sigacik.

Taxi (25 TL) avoided a long walk in suburban Ovacik. A large Rotary sign heralded the beginning and the soon to be familiar, red and white parallel marks.

A graded road cut the way for the first few kilometers, softened by spectacular coastal views over Olu Deniz.

A roman road or rough track, impossibly cut into the cliff, took over to wend its way up under the majesty of Baba Dagi (Father Mountain -2000m). Para gliders, butterfly like, swirled overhead from summit to sea. A 1953 avalanche stripped the whole east face adding to its grandeur.

The cistern (water well) and lookout (2 hours) would allow excellent camping if having a late afternoon start from Fethiye.

Meet Kirk, young Kiwi, walking the Way with a small pack and staying in local accommodation. Most walkers are English on a week holiday. Some in an organized day walk.

Turks give welcoming "iyi gonlar" (Good day) as a walker passes villages. The yaylas (fields) are a buzz with hives and "spacemen" beekeepers. Scenery of blue mountains and red gorges to the azure coast.

Georges House Pension (30 TL dinner, B&B) in Faralya provides a welcome hot bath and fine meal in company with an Australian, Brian, and a young German couple. Butterfly Bay is 500 feet below. Skipper completes a colourful sketch. Brian has pioneered a number of trails that a person staying in Faralya and particularly Georges House could do as day walks. There is written information available at Georges. The trails are marked.

Faralya is an excellent day walk. A bus is available to/from Fethiye/ Olu Deniz.

Getting lost, or off track, is part of trekking. The markers are not always obvious. Skipper is redirected by a "Faralyan." Later, road construction destroyed the markers. The map is too small scale to be accurate. Markers are frequent but they require vigilance. After a few days, the trail-makers intent becomes second nature. The free standing Lycian Way sign posts are at the end of each section. These are very useful to pick up the trail when it runs off roads or in villages.

A day of superb rocky mountains, gorges and bays. The bays are serene, seemingly untouched apart from the village. Yachts are seen passing by out at sea.

From Kabak to Alinca the trail has alternatives: via the mountains or the sea. Skipper opts for the mountains. It seems only defying gravity will provide a trail around the sheer cliffs. Yet the impossible yields and an ancient path (some 2 m wide) cuts its way upward. There are no other walkers today.

It is the second and seemingly, longest day (7 hours). It is 1800 on arrival in Alinca - a mountain village with a superb coastal vista. Skipper welcomes a boy's invitation to have tea with his parents and younger sister. It is the first house. Then onto Bayram's Place (the next house) with a bungalow, hot bath, dinner and breakfast (30TL). Skipper does a colour sketch.

Mircan (Bayram's wife) - and two children - milks the cow and prepares breakfast. On departure she provides a lunch of cheese, tomato and bread.

A family photograph and away to the ancient city of Sidyma. Skipper carries two litres of freshwater, a litre in a platypus "tube" and two half litre bottles. It is sufficient. Cisterns usually are undrinkable or occupied by swarms of bees.

Skipper sketched an Ottoman cistern with its arched doorway.

The track follows the coast before offering the option of heading inland to Sidyma rejoining at Bel. The inland route follows a valley to Bogazici before winding up to the yayla of Sidyma (incorporating the village of Dodurga). Bogazici is a timeless village built on goats, honey and olives (farm staples). Skipper is mobbed by school children who enjoy their photo. The village "blue" shop is opened for Skipper to buy soap. "Shop" is a very limited term. Skipper later sketches the "blue shop" at the end of a valley lane.

Voices calls "Merhaba, Sidyma (hello)." Only when a tree rustles is the mysterious voice revealed to be an olive picker. It is olive season and the groves are alive with villagers. Olive trees bedeck the remotest hillsides and valleys.

The location of ancient cities is one of their mysteries. Sidyma is no exception. Skipper treks up past a fort to a small plateau high above the valley. Its location could only be based on defence or religion. It would have been a beautiful city. The ruins date from the Roman period include substantial tombs and temples. Modern day, Sidyma includes blocks and tombs in its buildings. The mosque is built on the agora.

Musketelle phones. "Where are you?" "Sidyma, on a mountain." Silence. "Where the bloody hell is that?" Mobile coverage in rural Turkey is excellent.

Husetin invites Skipper to overnight with his family (25TL, dinner and breakfast). A loud individual, Skipper asks for the mosque. The Iman offers accommodation. Husetin presses his offer. Skipper is shown to a pleasant room and ensuite (shower is cool not warm). Husetin is forester for the Sidyma area. I eat separately but in company of him, wife and daughter. Dinner is potato chips, tomato, olives, honey and bread with tea.

Breakfast is cheese, honey, bread, tomato, olives and tea. A photo with his brother, Cemil. Cemil speaks English from his time in Germany. Many villagers have worked in Germany.

Skipper treks past the mosque and is invited by the Iman for tea. His daughter is home from college. A graceful, lovely lady, she is a student English teacher. Skipper considers it would be interesting to stay with the Iman and experience firsthand village Islam. The Iman is a pleasant middle aged fellow. The only concern would be the five daily and evening calls to Allah. The mosque is at the center of Sidyma's city ruins.

Marika and Rolf, a Dutch couple are trekking the Lycian Way during a week's holiday. Skipper joins them to Gavuragth. A long walk over local roads and tracks and a steep descent to Gavuragth. Bel is a village along the way. Skipper buys fruit from a local fruiter's truck. A village lady invited us to tea and then, unrequested, served a basic lunch. It was a fait accompli (30TL for three). The entrepreneurial spirit grows along the walk. Walkers need to make clear what they require from villagers.

In Gavuragth, it is reported that the only accommodation is Patara Lodge. This may not be so if villages are approached however the village is almost deserted.

The Lodge is in a walled compound around the main watch keepers houses. Aspen, the owner built the Lodge as his Turk summer home after working years in Germany. He returns to Germany with wife, Juliane, in November for winter. Aspen makes clear the costs before confirming a stay. Its luxury is more expensive ( there are bunks or rooms) than a village pension. Guests stay in the home and welcomed as if a family member. Aspen is an excellent cook. He speaks English and German. A pool, dogs and spectacular coastal views to Patara, complete the scene. Skipper watched the storms lash the coast and stayed another night. Rolf and Marieke left to catch a plane home.

Aspen and Juliane were going to the airport so generously drove Skipper to ancient Letoon avoiding a long "road" component. The ancient ruins of Pydnai, Letoon, Xanthos and Patara (World Heritage sites) are all in a valley which is the heart of Lycia. Pydnai is a fort guarding the southern valley. Letoon is a religious sanctuary site (to Goddess Leto and two children, Apollo and Artemis) at the base of a small hill surrounded by a low lying swampy where the Goddess turned two shepherds into frogs. Today the theatre and ruins are surrounded by an endless mass of plastic shelters over tomato plants.

Xanthos must have been a beautiful city. It dominates the valley from a high hillside location bordered by a river. Much of city's central buildings and streets remain in outline and marble. One can only imagine how lovely the Nereid Temple frescoes facing out over the valley and the city gate, would be now if not "stolen" by British, for the British Museum.

The citizens of Xanthos upheld their freedom above all else. "Freedom" supported mass suicide and scorching the city, rather than submission as slaves to invaders. Sitting in the well preserved theatre, looking out over the city, it takes little to imagine, under a full moon, less violent, peaceful proceedings.

Skipper took taxis between Letoon, Xanthos and Patara as buses were intermittent and required long walks to the sites (20TL). The Flower Garden pension (30TL B&B, 15TL dinner) is a welcoming family place. Meals (which are excellent, cooked by the older son) are in a large room visited by family and friends of the owner who is Patara's village Mayor. Skipper watched the ruby sun go down over ancient Patara's harbour. Exploration would await tomorrow.

A small stray dog (Denver?) accompanied skipper during the day's exploration.

Patara prospered as the Lycian capital and main port. In time, sand silted the harbour and overcame the city ruins. Excavated ruins (much remains) have been well preserved under sand cover. These ruins include parts of the theatre and the first known parliament building (Lycian cities elected representatives, depending on city size) and lighthouse.

Strangely, there is no signage about the ruins. Fortunately Skipper had use of the Pension's Patara guidebook.

On walking out of Patara Skipper was called over by Chris and Sarah Elphick (UK) They had delivered Skipper's walking poles to Flower Pension, after they were left at Patara Lodge. They are English sailors who moor their yacht at Chichester on the Solent.

Delikkemer (2000 years old) is part of the Patara aquaduct. The aquaduct or open channel, brought freshwater around hills, for some 30 kms. The Delikkemer took the water across a dip between hills (one kilometer), via a pipeline supported by a stone bridge. It would not be possible to do so in an open aquaduct. The pipeline consisted of large stone blocks holed so that when joined formed a pipe line. The pipeline meant water could go down and up the other side to continue its less rapid, almost horizontal flow in an open channel down to Patara.

Skipper meets a young Australian fellow. A solo backpacker from Townsville (originally from Ingham). It seems only Kiwis and Australians are on the full Walk.

It's Independence Day in Kalkan. Horns sound from cars and walkers in procession to the flag bedecked harbour for a night of eating and dancing to a traditional instrument band and singers. Ataturks image is displayed on a continual video screen. Skipper meets Lou, Tony and Mike, English residents of Kalkan. They kindly invite Skipper to meet them the next day but with the weather being unsettled and dawning a fine day, Skipper opts to continue the Walk to Kas. It proves to be a wise decision.

The Onur Pension is excellent. Balcony has spectacular views over the old town and harbour to the islands (35TL B& B).

Skipper takes a dolmus to Azbek and taxi to Saribelen (20TL) to avoid roads. The days walk is to Gokceorren. A long walk over beautiful hills, through valleys, yaylas, and villages.

A goat herdsman and wife invite Skipper for tea. They live in a stone and timber single storey house. It is basic, etched in poverty or the simple life. The wife makes chai over a fireplace in the living room. There are no chairs or tables. She provides lunch (unrequested) including syruped figs which she later gives as a farewell present to Skipper. She produces photos of other walkers who she has entertained. She is nearly crippled by arthritis. Skipper pays 20TL hoping that the excess will assist in obtaining medical assistance or ease her apparent poverty (She is later heard shouting farewell and moving seemingly effortlessly??).

Near the path Skipper passes huge blocks, the remains of an unmarked ancient ruin. Dark clouds and thunder over the range urge Skipper to move on.

Ahmet has just put his horse in the stable. He lives in Gokceorren. He sees Skipper entering the village and extends and invitation to stay at his house at 25 TL (Dinner, B&B). Ahmet is loud and direct, his wife, Fatma is quiet and reserved, the young son, Toran, is typically active. A pleasant room with ensuite bathroom is "home" for the night. However, when there is no hot water (there is a gas heater), Ahmet repeats "Socuk" i.e. cold. Evening meal is vegetarian. I eat at a table while the family eat off a large round plate, as seems to be the custom. After dinner an invitation is given to join the family in the family room (with TV) with its wood stove and enjoy hot nuts and chai.

Skipper is invited to retire at 2000. A lovely family, poor but seemingly healthy and content. The house is basic but with all facilities.

Ahmet forecasts rain. The day dawns fine. Skipper departs for Phellos. The track goes up into the hills with views out across valleys and mountains. Thunderous black clouds herald a wet day. The track is through thick bush that when wet leans in to ensure a wet walker. Skipper dons a goretex rain jacket. Skipper is partially wet and cold. The gods of Phellos are in discussion; the thunder reverberates through the hills. Rain starts falling. Skipper presses on over slippery rocks through grasping bushes thankful for the support of the walking poles. It is a day with different beauty.

Phellos is revealed in a break in the weather. It is located on a ridge summit which limits its size, provides defence. Skipper wonders at the engineering required to build a city in such a place. Skipper eats the syruped figs provided by the herdsman's wife. It is to prove unwise.

It is the end of the walk. The weather is now consistently rain and thunder and cold.

Dede (Grandfather) Café is owned by retired Gemal and his wife. Skipper is grateful to find a room and hospitality after a wet and cold walk. Skipper is also not feeling well. It seems linked to the syruped figs. Skipper is two spend two days at Dede Café unable to continue. Gemal and his wife each night drive to Kas to avoid the night cold. They generously, leave food if needed and return next morning. Gemal's son, Orhan in Kas is able to interpret my position so Gemal is not concerned. Despite the infliction, Skipper enjoys the hospitality of Gemal and his wife in their superb house (some 200 years old).

After two nights Gemal drives Skipper to the Kas Otogar (bus station). Skipper realizes that the walking poles remain are left in the Dede Café and asks Gemal to send by carrier to Sigacik.

Skipper travels by bus to Demre to view ancient Myra and the St. Nicholas church. A small car, horn tooting, stops the bus. It is Gemal who has driven back to Dede Café and delivered the walking poles to the bus. It is most generous and typically Turk. Skipper is very grateful.

Myra is known for its necropolis (tombs) cut high up, into the cliff and theatre below. It is another ancient city closely surrounded by plastic tomato "sheds." It was disappointing.

St. Nicholas Church is set in suburbia and covered in a metal shed. The interior is interesting for its history but the exterior construction is destroys the context.

Interestingly, while St. Nichols, the original "Father Xmas" did provide for children, he never traveled further than his home city of Patara and the nearby Demre region. Many of his well know attributes are bound in mythology.

Skipper bused to Finike to join friends, Paddy and Caroline on Kristiane. Three lovely days hospitality, aboard at the Marina, ensured a fully recovered Skipper could return in good health to Sigacik and Sahula.

The remainder of the Lycian Way must await another time.

A superb experience. Thanks Kate Clow and the team and their sponsors.

NOTES:

Skipper particulars: Aged 62, retired, fit and healthy with a background in outdoors camping, walking, rock climbing and mountaineering. Presently on a circum-navigation on yacht: Sahula. Blog: www.sailblogs.com (Sahula). Walk was done solo.

Gear: Skipper would have preferred to have a light weight one person tent. A bivvy bag provides no night rain protection for the pack. Skipper would not carry it or a sleeping bag, again if deciding to stay in village houses or pension accommodation. Weight is of the utmost consideration. A light weight pack is also required. If doing the high mountain sections a tent is essential. It could be forwarded to the town nearby using a cargo transport company and asking it be retained in their office till arrival.

Camping out would be a superb experience. Skipper did not camp out on the Walk. There are many excellent camping places. A groundsheet is essential against stony ground. A stove would be useful although a fire is possible in all campsites. Nights would be cool to cold. Darkness came early.

Other walkers: Skipper met only four (NZ, Australia, Holland) walking long sections. Day walkers only did the first section to Faralya.

Village houses: Villages sought out Skipper to stay in their houses. Skipper was solo. It may be different if a couple but accommodation always had room for two. The cost was 25TL dinner B&B. Pensions charged 30TL B&B with dinner 15 TL or eat out.

Hot water baths: If this is essential check it is available before settling on accommodation. Skipper found it was often not included. A little suffering in a sea of hospitality is hardly a problem. The solution is to go without a bath and enjoy a simple wash.

Meals: Basic but adequate. Often vegetarian only. The most basic was fried chips, tomato and olives for dinner. Pension meals were excellent. Stomach upsets from local food is a risk. Avoid syruped figs!!!

All the Guide's recommended accommodation proved very good. There were always other pensions available as well. Skipper stayed in Tan Pension in Fethiye. It was excellent with superb balcony views over the harbour (25TL B&B)

Enterprising villagers: Beware of invites to Chai or tea. It may be in fact an "invitation" to a meal. The meal may prove to be a fait accompli. In any event, an enjoyable time will be had with a villager and the cost is minimal and to a good cause. The cost is likely to be 10 TL a person.

An invitation to only chai may also involve paying for each cup. Usually in Turkey chai offered is free. In any event it may be best to offer to pay. The cost will be around a Lira a cup.

Lunch: Skipper carried some fruit, sausage, a tomato and cheese (if available) and munched peanuts and dried apricots and figs with a muesli bar (if available). Eating as you go rather than a large lunch is better.

Cost: The Walk would be very inexpensive if only camping. A mix of camping and pensions would be pleasant. Village houses cost 25 TL dinner, B&B, Pensions cost 30TL B&B, dinner extra 15 TL. Large towns may require use of pensions.

Water: Skipper carried a platypus water tube to a plastic 1litre container bag and two half litre bottles i.e. 2 litres. There was always a bottle remaining. If camping a bottle would be needed for cooking. Cisterns exist in the first part of the walk but where there are beehives it would be risky competing with them. Many villages have only water tanks. This would mean walk is in short supply and if taken may have to be paid for.

It would not be possible, unless camping, to purify all water drunk during the walk.

Map: The map rapidly needed consistent repair i.e. taping. A colour copy of threlevant partrt being would save the original. The map is not reliable as a detailed guide to the path. The Guide book is needed to ensure that a walker is on the trail. Again a photocopy of the relevant part would save weight.

Marking: The red and white stripe is easily seen all along the track. It is a remarkable effort by the marker makers. Skipper got lost a few times but mainly due to not concentrating on looking for marks and walking past them. At one point a new road had destroyed the marks. However after a couple of days it soon became clear how the track "worked." It pays to read the Guide for each section. Villages will direct a walker to the track. The Lycian Way sign posts are placed at the beginning and end of each section. These are particularly useful when finding the trail next day or when on a road and finding the trail which runs off it.

Level of difficulty: The Walk is no problem to a fit and healthy person. It didn't involve any seriously dangerous sections. Although, between Bel and Patara Lodge the last down hill section is steep and across rock. If it was wet this section would require extreme caution.

The times given in the Guide are accurate. Of course, a fast walker will reduce them. Skipper was generally at accommodation by 1600 but some days arrival was earlier. It depends when you depart. Skipper departed generally by 1000. If camping you could leave a lot earlier but in pensions and houses breakfast is earliest at 0800 and more like 0900.

Walking poles: Skipper found these essential when walking on rocky, slippery paths with a heavy pack. The substantially reduce the likelihood of a sprain or damage to feet.

Boots: Good ankle supporting boots are essential. The rocky terrain takes its toll on boots. The soles on Skipper boot separated due to glue failure. Fortunately it happened at the end of the Walk. The boots are high quality Italian leather with goretex interiors. The goretex is useless.

Time to do Walk: Skipper took some ten days and stopped at Kas or Dede Café below Phellos. This covered about a third of the walk. However Skipper excluded parts of it. Exclusions included Patara Lodge to Patara, Xanthos to Patara and Patara to Saribelen. On these parts Skipper took a dolmus but more often a taxi. Average cost of Taxi fare was 20 TL. It was well worth it. Walking between plastic tomato sheds didn't appeal.

When to do the Walk: Skipper did the Walk in the last two weeks of October. The weather was initially sunny days and cool evenings. However the last week winter storms were hanging around and broke over the Walk on the Phellos section. The better time to do the Walk would be in September. If the mountain section from Demre to Finike is to be done then it is best done in September. Skipper planned to do this section but the storms ended all hope. Walking in rain is not pleasant particularly as the water laiden bushes ensure that even with rain or no rain it is doubly wet. Wet rocks and slipping is also are a considerable risk.

Memories: The scenery, ancient cities and the marvelous villagers leave indelible memories.

**************

Passage Report No. 34 Sigacik No.1

Sahula Passage Report No. 34

Sigacik, Turkey - Winter 2009-10

Sigacik is "home" till April 2010. Winter is officially October to April. Sahula is the guest of the marina management and owners. They could not be more welcoming. Cuneyd, the manager could not do more for Skipper. He was a master on merchant ships until his wife persuaded him to take a more homebound job. The marina is the work swansong of Husnu (74), its architect. He is currently building an earthquake proof, energy efficient retirement home nearby.. Skipper was also welcomed by Getin, a member of an Istanbul shipping family and part owner of the marina. It is impressive that these people are concerned with the environmental and social impact of their work.

Their awareness will be important to Sigacik. It is a small (pop. 2000) fishing and rural town relatively free of tourism. Its old town is uniquely surrounded by an intact ancient wall with arched gates. It is the site of new "ancient" Teos which moved when "old" Teos was devastated by an earthquake in the eons of time. The new marina (500 berths) and a proposed passenger ship terminal could lose "new" Sigacik to modern mammon.

Usually a cruiser nestles for the winter with fellow sailors in a crowded marina. Skipper's experience is to be somewhat different. There are no other English speaking yacht crews here apart from Ozkan on Kayitsiz III. If Skipper is going to be a member of a Turk community then learning basic Turkish is going to be a priority. Finding a teacher is a challenge in a community with only a primary school. English is taught at a secondary school in Seferihisar, some five kilometers distant.

Another challenge is to have basic repairs done on Sahula. Usually, work is done in a "sunayi," a part of town dedicated to small business in the trades. The nearest "sunayi" is in Seferihisar. Ozkan assures Skipper that that is no problem. Ozkan is an Izmir local. Skipper assumes that a local metal work industry services the local farming community.

Sahula has no shower aboard. Cuneyt approached the nearby hotel who readily agreed to a hot shower. However, a shower aboard seems a priority and a hot shower a considerable challenge. Equally, an onboard heater is critical to ward off the expected winter cold. Both these items while necessary here are also needed in later cruising in Europe and Patagonia.

Skipper has now heard that family and friends planning to visit cannot be here this year. Plans are therefore made to walk the Lycian Way from Fethiye to Fineke over two weeks in late October.

It was time to broaden the horizon. On the third day Ozkan returned to Kayitsiz III to prepare her for the long winter. He would live in his chic apartment in hometown Izmir (pop. 3 million) Skipper had his first foray beyond Sigacik, accompanying Ozkan home.

The agora in ancient cities was were traders gathered to do business. Izmir's "Agora" is where wealthy Izmir-ites preen in and before, shops that are beyond most Turks. It is a citadel to the economic divide. It exclaimed the "Mc-World.," a modern, western Turkey. A bland cultureless place.

Konak, suburb in "old" Izmir, was different. It exclaimed cultural Turkey in a maze of noisy, narrow lanes bursting with colour and entrepreneurial spirit. A huge market selling everything. It included a ships chandlery and metal working shop making, inter alia, stainless steel stoves.

Kate, a nanny, is a young Australian married to Englishman, Mike. Both are working at a nearby tourist hotel. Skipper met them on the return bus to Sigacik.

Gideon, a retired Israeli, lives in Sigacik. His boat (57 feet) is in Izmir. It seems that Sahula attracts yachties passing by.

A sheet previously caught around the propeller pulling Tanya (motor) off alignment. A knock resulted when the shaft hit the stern tube (where shaft goes through the boat) Ozkan assisted to realign the motor and shaft.

A strong northerly pinned Sahula against the concrete wharf testing the fenders. Sahula awaited a lull and moved to a seemingly more protected berth. Juggling wind and construction work proves to be a challenge. Stern line is to an anchor in a concrete culvet.

Skipper and Ozkan are invited to dinner at Mustafa (85, sailor) and his daughters apartment. Friends of Ozkans, they live near Sigacik. Turkish hospitality at home.

"Chai" - that word that transcends language - a standard invitation if meeting a Turk. Skipper can have numerous cups a day.

Skipper bused to Bodrum to visit Thomas, a cruiser friend (Nahda Brahma) and Astrid his partner. Bodrum, an old town (with a superb castle/underwater archeology museum) is a mix of tourists and history and culture. Harmony VI (Vasco de Gama Rally) and three Japanese friends (Sho, Sam, John, retired businessmen with families in Japan), on a circumnavigation, were anchored in Bodrum Bay. Thomas co-opted a local dinghy so he, Skipper and Astrid could make a surprise visit and enjoy a Japanese meal aboard. Sam does superb watercolour paintings.

Some things never change. In ancient times bringing a new ship to water meant a sled on rolling poles. Skipper watched a 50 m newly built yacht, wend its way, upon a huge sled (steel and timber), yanked and towed by caterpillar tractors (not slaves!) over continually laid boards, down a winding hillside street to the waters edge. Turkish shipbuilding skills are handed down father to son or apprentice, from ancient times ensuring little change in the art. Labour is poorly paid and available. Technical colleges for trades are uncommon.

Buses are the breath and life of Turkish transportation. Trains, city or country, are almost non-existent. Skipper negotiated four buses to travel from Sigacik to Bodrum. Three were between Sigacik and Izmir Otogar (bus terminal). Connections are without delays due the frequency of the services.

A haircut is a haircut, except in Turkey. In the latter parts of the process the Barber produces a small flame and proceeds to burn off offending hairs around ears and face with a quick hand movement that ensures the hairs singe rather than Skipper sacrificed.

The Piet Reis (ancient Turkish navigator/cartographer of the Mediterranean) NGO promotes marine science. Ozkan was invited to relate his global adventures to an Izmir audience. The attendees clapped when Ozkan revealed Skipper's voyage (and age!) and feted with a superb meal. Circumnavigations remain, to Turks, an adventure outside of reality.

Izmir bookshop increased the shipboard library by five new books: modern Turkish politics, Attaturk and Ottoman history and two Turk author's novels. English books are not readily available.

Musketelle (NZ; Peter and Barbara) anchored off Sigacik. Skipper enjoys news of cruising friends. They will winter in Marmaris. The cruising fleet are "nesting" in various marinas: Bodrum, Marmaris, Fethiye, Finike and Alanya.

Sunday, day of rest. Skipper enjoys a surprise visit and lunch in Sigacik park, with Yilmaz and Belma.

In the afternoon, Cuneyd, Savas, Aysel invite Skipper to visit ancient Teos and "chai" (Ayik Teos restaurant) watching the sunset over the bay.

It is time to leave for Lycia to walk the ancient roads and trails. Sahula is safely under the watchful eye of ex-merchant ship master, Cuneyd.

Next report Lycian Way.

Best

David

November, 2009

Sigacik

Turkey.