Art in Norway

Art in Norway

 

 

 

These are some of the sketches: pencil, pastel, watercolour, of Sahula's time in Norway 2012

 

 

 

Coastal Norway - north of Lindesnes

 

Pastel

 

Lofoten harbour

Pastel

 

 

 

Lofoten - lake and mountains

 

pastel

 

Lofoten - mountain blocks at edge of lake

 

pastel



 

 

Lofoten peaks and white house

 

pastel

 

 

Midnight Sun

 

Pastel

 



 

Fishing Boats

 

Pastel

 

 

 

Skerries, Islands, Rocks

 

coloured pencil

 

 

Glacial Mountains

 

coloured pencil

 



 

Blindeia Memories

 

coloured pencil

 

 

Sahula in Lillehavn, Lindesnes

 

coloured pencil

 

Honnel Massif, Glacial Valleys, Fishing Boat

coloured pencil

 

 





Passage Report: No. 80

South Return: Bodo to Lindesnes

O400 - yellow touches the distant peaks. Skipper prepares to depart Bodo on a fine, calm day. Breakfast, charts organised, digital charts course set, enroute anchorages noted - Skipper is solo.

The "Great Bodo Fender Thief" has struck. A large, "ball" fender is missing - come loose or stolen - cost of cruising.

Two brown, sea eagles swooped, sea birds in close pursuit.

Tillerpilot "Tim" [Timid - automatic self steering) malfunctions (later adjusting settings); Skipper steers fulltime. Calm, Tanya drives on.

Cloud lifts off revealing peaks of final summer snow. A distant Svartisen ice cap spreads its mantel, anciently, hugely, lanquidly, starched, over dark, blue green, mountains.

Sails, moth like, pass against the steep coastal ranges. Yachts on the move, local or foreign, homeward bound.

 

Sahula heads south to anchor. Skipper's preference is to anchor in wild, natural places. Rarely are lifes aspirations so satisfied: evening light, calmly casts upon Norway's endless blue.

Updating the Lomax guide: underwater cable now cuts Itra Kavoya anchorage (Lomax, 200 D). Sahula anchors in a bay behind the island (open SW, 5m, sand/weed).

Carved, grisely, brute rock, grey ranges, speckled with past winter white; dripping, filigree waterfalls; backdrop to blood red homes of remote farms and summer houses spaced by fields and forests, emerald green.

 

 Metal globe on island, marks Sahula passing the Arctic Circle.

Past the Seven Sisters; peaks nipple like, more naked, less snowed, streaking waterfalls; await winter.

Torgatten's hole (through the mountain) pinpricks light.

Sahula starts day early so anchors early ( 8 hour day) for fishing, reading or walking.

Skipper prefers a day unplanned; anchorage is where Sahula is. Anchorages are the mark of Norwegian cruising. There are literally thousands of beautiful, wild places amongst the islands, skerries and fjords. Consistently, depth 5-10m, sand/weed; Sahula edges in, drops, reverses, Tanya off - chips and juice - life is good.

"You stay out?"

"Out" defines those who are always "in." "In" cruisers require facilities - hot shower, shops, loos and washing/drying machines. Such needs ensure "out" is always solo. Sahula rarely has company.

Slattoya and Sunnesoya islands anchorages aren't in the Guide. The chart marks an "anchor" icon.

Skipper is calendar deprived. Sunday shuts the Bronnoysund fuel outlet. Sahula moves onto Rorvik. Sahula carries additional fuel containers (140 litres).

A viking boat regatta busies Bronnoysund harbour.

Five hooks caught four mackerel, two hooks caught none. Skipper is resigned to catching four and retaining two.

Poles seemingly thrive on late season adventure. Sahula passed two small (15-20 feet) open gaff rigged craft and a large yacht heading north. Skipper marveled at the lack of weather protection.

A large, square rigged, topsailed, double ended viking vessel, time warped, glides along the coast.

Rorvik fuel is at a harbourside, Esso, road garage (10.30k). Garages are expensive compared to fishing boat wharves (8-9 NK).

Strommoya Island anchorage is a steep sided cleft (Chart icon, 5m). A great, grey, sea eagle; sea birds in pursuit; swept by. High above in their eerie, two eagles rest.

Fresh bread (Kniepbrod - 6 k [1 AUD]) a luxury. The "ICA" sign marked a visitors wharf for Bessaker village supermarket. Skipper noted it had fishermans fuel (cheaper). Knowledge is a past resource.

It seemed well; a rested night (5m). Morning: Sorkrakoya Island rocks, chain stretched, were 50m off Sahula's stern in a SW'ly gale, forecast to increase. Sahula moved to nearby, Roan village harbour (7m).

Norwegian forecasts list (metres per second [double for knots]) "light" as calm, "moderate" as strong, "fresh" as galeforce. Skipper, cautiously, adds 10 knots to a "moderate" report.

It is a lay day. "Moderate" and "fresh" SW'ly forecast for two days. A few miles south, Alesand enjoys sunny, fine days and light NE'lies.

Art Nouveau, with all its"... neo-classical and Gothic flourishes..." (Lomax, 160) marks Alesund. In 1904, a fire driven by a winter storm laid waste the cities mainly, wooden buildings. Germany's Kaiser Willem II immediately sent two aid ships. His statue survives despite subsequent German aggression. The city was rebuilt in three years. Economic depression ensured workers flocked in, bringing with them German, French, Dutch, English architects. Adorned with motifs such as an abstract owl (wisdom), dragons, eagles (protection) and sunflowers (French), roses (English), no reconstructed house (stone, cement) is the same. Built over hills, islands and around a compact, inlet harbour, it is a city of great beauty.

Sahula attracts friendly passerbyers interest (Boxing Kangaroo flag).

Skipper meets many young adventurers aspiring to fulfil the dream. They seek with years to do, what Skipper seeks with few.

"You sailed from Australia? How long?..."

Whats in a wave? Norwegian, Dutch, English, Dane motor/sail cruisers - all wave spontaneously.

Passing many Norwegian coastal ships - all immaculately maintained.

Large steel fishing "ships" rest in many village ports.

"They sweep their quota, then sit all year."

Sahula all sails set, cruises to Kvalsund anchorage

Anchor in Botnane inlet (6m) [Lomax, 146].

Overcast, rain, mist - radar, digital/ paper charts, AIS, visual - the eyes have it. Small dinghy fishermen at greatest risk. No nets are laid only fish trap bouys.

Anchor in Nyhamar (5m) - enclosed pool (Lomax, 137K)

There can be no peace more than a serene, forest enclosed pool.

It had to come - a danger so close. Sahula is in Fonnesstraumen, a narrow cleft, tide surging - unheard till metres astern, a 50m, passenger, jet driven, catarmaran ferry attempts to pass. Sahula is swept aside towards the sheer rock sides - passengers wave, unaware of pending disaster. Skipper recovers then a few minutes, unheard, another similar fast ferry surges close by at some 30 knots.

"Why no warning horn?"

"We know their schedule" - explains a local.

Large houses spread across islands on the approach to Bergen.

Sahula berths in busy, inner old harbour, alongside Dutch and French yachts.

"He is modest, never mentions it" - "it" is two solo circumnavigations by Dutch skipper - one non-stop, other Hobart stop.

"See you in Paris" - French crew (two adults, 5 uni students).

Skipper joins the tourists. "Queen Victoria" (Cunard) is in port. Escape to the art gallery and wanders the cobbled passages between historic, white, wooden houses.

 

 

 

 

Stave Church, built 1150; moved to Fontoft near Bergen 1853; 1992, Satanist arsonist struck. Rebuilt of unpainted pine, the exterior roof soars to evil defying, fire breathing dragons. A small tenth century cross is the only icon in the intricately carved interior. Outside and in, it is a superb, work of art.

 

 

 

Italian chamber music group played in historic Korstkirche. Pianist, violinist and bassoonist played Verdi with full Italian expression.

Inspiration could have no better home than Ole Bull's Lesoy Island.

Anchored in a calm, forested, pool - it is a creative, spiritual, inspiring, place. Sahula stayed three nights to complete a pastel art work, "Norway" and walk the many trails built for the famous violinist.

Hjellstad Marina supplied fuel (10.49NK).

"Hello, I want to go to Australia for winter, summer here. I have a small farm, fishing business. They introduced Canadian pines, taking over. I have planted only Norwegian trees." Australia - land of opportunity.

Norwegian cruising family and friends, welcome Sahula's return to Tanager (near Stavanger). Skipper returns hospitality with colourful pastel of "Norway."

Skipper's first Norwegian "painting," it captures the coastal ranges and light from Sahula.

"We remember from Indonesia, the red yacht..."

Norwegian crew live nearby after circumnavigation.

Skipper arranges to meet Australian crew in Oslo within three weeks. Unsure of late autumn weather, Skipper opts to press on. Farewell to Tanager, Norwegian friends.

Norwegian weather reports offer a two day window (of NW'lies) to round Norways most southerly, most notorious cape: Lindesnes.

"It was an experience..." says Sahula's crew of the gale when heading north.

Tanya (engine) drives, yankee (headsail) pulls, as wind increases.

An Australian yacht heads north - waves to flags. The only Australian yacht seen in Norway.

In 12 hours, Sahula sails past into picturesque, Lillehavn harbour.

"I was on Norwegian ships, we called at Australia. You've taken four years did you say... I'm retired now. We come here every year in our motorhome. It is quiet, peaceful and good fishing."

Skipper can now relax. There are no more weather prone obstacles to arrival in Oslo. Sahula can wend through the south coast, "skagaergard" (islands, rocks) almost all the way.

Next Report: Lindesnes to Oslo.

Best,

David

23/8/12

Passage Report: 79

North in the Lofotens; south to Bodo

It had to happen - a SW'ly gale; wind and rain for two days then a hoped for N'ly change over a week of sunshine.

Sahula is at anchor in Moskenes harbour. Skipper is having time out: updating the blog, finishing a watercolour sketch, shopping, and visiting the village market.

Skipper had his first whale meat "wrap." Sorvagen and Riene villages harbour Minke whale hunters.

Sorvagen claim to fame is its past as the base for Lofoten telecommunications. Its museum records the impact on islands and fishing boats of wireless communication. Fishing fleets fish catch increased 25%.

Skipper compares the original bulky radio equipment to modern smart phones.

Skipper is ready to go. Hilda (outboard) is off Honey (dinghy) is on deck. Sahula seems closer to shore. It may be the anchor chain is at full stretch in the strong wind. The alternative is to go to nearby Sorvagen harbour. Australian crew arrive today so staying is more convenient. A watching brief is kept.

The ferry is late. Crews welcome is wind driven, cold, rain after weeks of sunshine. Crew is father and son. Father rests, reads; son and Skipper sail Sahula.

Cloud wafts the Lofoten peaks. Stromoy (Lomax, 222) - provides a wild and beautiful anchorage. A sea eagle swoops, fishing. Crew trek to nearby summit.

(*)

Henningvaer (Lomax, 224) is Lofotens "gem." Formed by low islands and a backdrop of "high craggy mountains," it is a working fishing village and adventure centre (trekking, rock and mountain climbing). Guest haven wharves (150k, no facilities) are a short walk to town. Karl Harr art gallery is superb (65K).

(*)

Trollfjord is iconic. Vertical rock walls guard a narrow passage between snowed, soaring, peaks.

Anchorage between nearby islands viewing cloud peaked mountains, is Sahula's Lofoten last. It joins those places where nature's craft leaves an indelible memory.

Sahula will go no further north.

Across the Vestfjord (12nm), Hamaroya Island harbours Straumshamn. Sahula anchored in a crystal clear, sandy bay. Crew went trekking to view the Hammershaft; a near vertical, sharpened, rock peak. Upon the return the lady was seen to "bare her bottom" - Sahula laid upon her bilge, portholes submerged; inside gear tumbled, loosened by a 45 degree tilt. Skipper had ignored the tidal range. Memories of similar in the Sandy Straits (Fraser Island, Queensland, Australia) provided assurance.

Ashore crew awaited the moon to turn. A BBQ, sausages, fire baked potatoes, turned cold frustration, to warm enjoyment.

"We should have done this regardless."

Sahula, chastened, departed for a deeper anchorage.

Kjerringoy, once a major trading, fishing village (now a museum) with summer residences, marina (200K, no facilities) and substantial art gallery (Eric, Eva Harr and other northern Norway artists). Established in the 1800's, its economic nadir was fostered by a shallow harbour that provided rowed and sailed fishing boats with sandy beaches to pull onto; motors heralded its decline. Elisabeth, as manager in late 1800's, daughter of deceased owner, assured its prosperity and notoriety in a male world.

"Exodus", welcomed Sahula to Bodo marina (150k overnight; 30k: shower; 50k: washing machine or dryer; fuel: 10.50 k). Her crew had sailed to Senegal from their home near Bodo and, returning, met Skipper in Holland (2011).

"I have enjoyed Scandinavia, I may, next season, cruise to Sweden, Finland, Russia and the Baltic states."

"Would you like (on loan) our Sweden, Denmark charts?"

Exodus sails, north, into the rain.

Australian crew depart; a superb week ("...seemed a month...") through Lofoten to Bodo.

Sahula returns to silence. A SW gale blows wet. Time to rest and prepare (charts, food, fuel, water, washing, engine oil change etc, etc.) for the solo voyage south to Oslo, Sweden and Denmark.

"Roslin" - Norwegian yacht, Australian and English/Norwegian crew - swaps Australian flags - larger for Sahula (Skipper, a republican, flies alongside, the "Boxing Kangaroo).

Skipper notes that the Bruce anchor is near universal on local yachts. "...no good if a hard bottom..." Anchor runs over soft, large, weed till slips, secure, through to sand.

Cockpit protection canvas is only in port; unzipped at sea.

"We must see the sails."

Wet weather gear only protects crew from cold, rain and spray. Sahula covets her cockpit covers; sailing or in port.

Being destroyed by WWII bombing, Bodo arose, architecturely, as a modern city - northern Norway's largest (50,000). Suburbia is largely, individual houses rather than apartments.

Skipper visits Galleri Bodogaard - a family gallery of local northern Norway artist, Oscar Bodogaard - "artist of light."

Bodo Aviation Museum, spectacularly, houses Norway's major flight history.

Skipper skypes daughters, home on a small world.

Forecast is sunshine Friday for Sahula's departure.

Next Report No. 79: South: Bodo to Bergen.

Best

David

25th July, 2012