Sahula Passage Report No. 88/2013

Gotland to Stockhholm

Sahula’s, post –Gotland, anchorage is on the Blue Coast (Bla Kusten – Central Coast). The thousands of small islands (Skargard) and rocks, make for superb cruising and hazardous navigation.

Sahula has full "hard" chart sets that complement the computer charts. The helmsperson follows the GPS "Sahula" along the computer’s red line, double checking the course on the hard chart.

At times, a slight of finger, has rendered the screen black. A perilous result if in rock close quarters.

Rocks evidence is water colour, disturbance and a rapidly decreasing depth. Caution is the game, slowly applied. Some passages are one boat width; they threaten bilge and keel (shallow). Tanya (motor), a furlable headsail provide for speed plus quick action. The Skargard tests all assets and abilities. It challenges the most able, unnerves lessor souls. It stretches from the Blue Coast to north of Stockholm, the Aland Islands and the Finn coast to Helsinki.

"…there are two types of (Swedish) sailors, those that have hit rocks and those that will…"

"…keep to the course line (on Charts), there are many rocks…"

For three, summer, months (June, July, August) Scandinavias massive fleet, sail and enjoy watersports.

Skipper muses:

"Pine islands, rock - passing pink.

Seabirds whirl, stately swans,

Evening cool.

Yellow, orange, pink, grey.

Mirrored calm, reflects passing, arrowed geese.

Last night sounds.

Ashore, pines, in thick peat greens,

white bells carpet below ashen algae branches,

Deer, hare, birds.

Trees, in autumn bloom, budding, stark, tall,

silent sentinels,

darken,

An earthly quiet.

Above the murmur of a thousand islands nocturnal seas,

the mast light joins the stars."

*****

"Winter was late this year, two weeks ago, we had 30cm of ice on the harbour…"

Crew leaps from Sahula and shore cliffs – the split second wash.

Crew craves city life – Stockholm, so close,

Nykoping train beckons.

The narrow, dredged, river passage passes, close to reeds and wading birdlife, to a "Gasthamn" (guest harbour) berth (250 SEK).

 

The castle ruin dominates the flood foaming river – notorious King Birger (1317) invited his feuding brothers to a "peace banquet," promptly, consigning them to starve in the dungeon.

In contrast to nearby heavily industrial Oxelosund, Nykoping offers the quiet sophistication of an historic town and scenic river and forest walks.

Skipper solos through the Skargard to Ranohamn, a quiet cove on Rano Island, a day from Stockholm.

Island holiday homes, some multi storey with round towers, are larger nearer the city.

Sahula anchors in the entrance to the Baggensskaget, a narrow (one boat width), shallow - 3m), channel, "backdoor" to Stockholm. Ashore is a classic, grand, "yellow ochre, orange" summer home; above, a memorial to Russian invasion fears and fort.

 

 

Wasahamnen Marina (150 K under 12m, facilities inclusive) offers Stockholm's most central berth.

The grand edifaces: palaces, state buildings, spires and towers, create around the harbour, a cityscape of Parisian proportions. High rise is outside the old city.

The Vasa museum is next door - a superb exhibition of 17th century maritime life, centered on the "reborn" Kings naval ship, "Vasa." Ornately adorned in coloured and golden, sculptures, the largest fighting vessel of the realm, she set sail with minimal crew - to a light breeze, sails filled, hull heeled, (previous tests indicated instability. The King required his ship) waters gushed through the lower gun ports - a disaster - drowning sailors, to settle, upright, fully rigged, in 30 m, some 800 m from the dock. There she remained three centuries, a 17th century marine history trove, in good order (timber consuming Toledo worm do not exist in the brackish Baltic seas), till raised, proudly, to finally rest from where she sailed.

17th century ship building lacked a theoretical base. Vasa, the largest vessel yet built, was a ship builders "experiment" - too narrow, too little ballast. A subsequent vessel, a metre wider, sailed for 30 years.

People, friends enhance cruising. Swede friends invited Skipper and Crew to dinner then to the SALT (Soprano, Alto...) Choir concert and 10 year Anniversary Dinner/ Dance. Skipper danced to the "wee small hours."

Skipper and Crew were also wined and dined by other Swede friends. Both events highlighted Swede family and social life.

Gamla Stan, narrow cobbled, bohemian, streets between massed, canyons of 17 -18th century buildings, is Stockholm's "old" city, grouped around the huge, Royal Palace.

Skipper returns to Stockholm in August. Many exhibitions and museums only open in June.

The Stockholm Archipelago is the marine "city" playground. Sahula passed through narrow passages, anchoring two nights in beautiful coves.

"...you'll need a guide book..." but not so (Guide charted only some "natural harbour" anchorages), Sahula anchored when whim determined, chart and caution provided. Walks ashore through pine forests, layered in peat and wild flowers, were superb.

Sahula final anchorage on Ido Island (enclosed pool, 1.7 m at entrance, 2.5m at anchorage) was in "pea soup" dense fog. Large ferry's moaned their fog dirges.

Fog delayed Sahula's departure the next morning for Mariehamn, in the Aland Islands.

Next Report: Aland Islands, Finland to Helsinki.

Best,

David

22/05/13

Sweden.

Passage Report: 87/2013

Kalmar to Visby, Gotland Island

It's either "swing the lead" or replace the malfunctioning depth sounder. Sweden's coast is a myriad of islands, channels and rocks!

Kalmar proves friendly and well equipped to replace a malfunctioning depth sounder, athough Scandinavian expensive.

The tall, spindly, yellow crane lifts Sahula on creaking, seemingly fragile belts. A new, through hull, transducer and digital depth sounder is installed. Sahula is lowered back to her element. Skipper is relieved (of pocket?).

Skipper and Crew each sketch the imposing, Kalmar Stott (castle).

Food, fuel and Sahula departs for northern Oland Island.

Shimmering calm breaking to light SW'ly. Mollie (spinnaker/ MPS) drives Sahula up Oland Sund (channel) to Byxelkrok (small fishing harbour), to anchor (4m). Early start, ruby sunrise, Tanya (motor) drives into the light easterly to Gotland Island.

"Because if its position... (half way into the Baltic) ...Gotland played a central role in Viking age trade with the east..." (Ferguson, "The Hammer and the Cross - New history of the Vikings":126) Vikings substantive impact was between 600 - 900 AD. Island burial treasure revealed Islamic coin and silver frrom around 700 AD. After a third of its population were expelled, its people also colonised the eastern Baltic (Latvia). The early Rus tribes (Rus colonised "Russia") may have come from Gotland and Swede origins.

Sahula's crew (hire car) visited Viking archeological sites - massed stone grave piles (TrullHalsar), forts, stone burial ship (Tjelvars Grav)."

"It was the best..." (Crew) - "Kutens Bensin" - "...it must be the biggest 1950's cult centre in Scandinavia..." An illuminated "Elvis" sign, rusting hulks of heritage cars, Bonny and Clydes last escape car (with bullet holes). An incongruous melange of USA memorabilia AND superb crepes.

Visby was an important Viking port. However, the town formed and flourished in the 12th century. It became a major medieval site and Hanseatic League (Holland, Germany and Baltic states) port. The high city walls, towers surrounding a town of major building, cobbled streets, arches and dramatic Church ruins (ransacked and abandoned in 15th century), evidence its prosperity and strategic position.

In the 13th century, these assets also attracted conflict, civil war (independant farmers - v - Visby Hanseatic League), invasion, Black Death and economic stagnation.

By the 17th century, prosperity returned to the present day. Visby life exudes wealth, fashion, restaurants, spick, well presented.

Cement production is a major industry; benefiting from the Island being an uplifted limestone reef.

Over a million tourists a year visit in the summer three months.

Visby is a cultural World Heritage Site due to the uniqueness of it well preserved town and city wall.

Sahula enjoys a less busy, chilly Gotland in May.

"Pea Soup" fog smothers Visby - "... it was not forecast..."

Time out, Skipper sketches the townscape, cathedral ruins and city wall.

Fuel ("...be careful of eco (suppliment) fuel, we had two boat tanks pumped out last season..." Fuel is not "eco"), food, water, in, Sahula leaves daybreak for the coast "skargard" - islands and channels.

Sun up, a westerly, Sahula leans to all sails, on calm seas. Early start, early arrival, time to find an anchorage.

"Keep to the marked routes... lots of rocks..." - Sahula edges into a likely island cove - anchor rattles across the unseen.

A local yacht at anchor - Sahula slowly enters - anchor digs in - walk ashore - "sundowners" (wine, cheese) to the setting sun to myriad, island, pink, grey, seascape.

Tomorrow, Sahula wends through the Skargard.

Best

David

Sweden

11/5/13

Passage Report: 86

Baltic Bound 2013- Ipswich to Kalmar, Sweden

Pre- cruise preparation is always daunting. Lists seem interminably long and only reluctantly shorten.

40 cm of snow on the decks didn't promote progress.

Sahula needed a reliable, ever present, "crew." "Arial" (Aries windvane) needed work and the centre cockpit wheel caused it problems. All resolvable but at a cost. As well, possible risk of rudder breakdown was absolved if the self steering was by separate rudder.

Skipper opted for a Hyrdovane self steering system (www.hydrovane.com). The high cost was offset by Arial's sale and VAT repayment.

Nothing is that simple. Every new item aboard creates new challenges, adding cost, extending the "to do" list. Not least, the solar panel frame is raised to accomodate the vane.

These were, in part, gratefully resolved by a marina, "committee of hydrovane owners." The other part is cruise use.

"Harry" (Hydrovane) is christened. "Audrey" (Autopilot tiller)use Harry's rudder and tiller to provide motorised self steering.

Constant weather reports are a cruiser's comfort. A new Navtex (Nasa Easy - large print) provides Sahula with 24 hour digital (HF) reports as it moves through the various Navtex regions. It adds to those on-line and on HF/ VHF radio. Over 2-300 nm offshore Winlink HF remains the sole source.

Blackened bottom, red polished freeboard, Sahula reclaims her sea berth.

A broad Australian accent annouces "Crew" is in England and keen to go. Aboard, electrical skills, find use. Final food, fuel and last list items.

Friends join for farewell drinks.

Crew castes off. Sahula heads down the Orwell (river), a beer at historic Pin Mill, onto Harwich. Like the Pilgrims before, the North Sea beckons.

True to form, it "beckons" with fair weather but ends opposite. "Mal de Mer" downs Crew. Time out required in Den Helder, Holland.

Depth Sounder and AIS are malfunctioning. Skipper's lesson: post - winter, test all electronics.

"We wish to board, Sir." A large black Dutch Customs/ Immigration launch looms alongside. Pleasant officers dutifully pass.

Sleep, Sturgeon tablets - Crew is revived. Sahula embarks on an overnight passage to the Elbe River.

A South Westerly fills Mollie (spinnaker/ MPS) driving Sahula past the Dutch, German Friesian Islands to Cuxhaven (hot shower!) on the Elbe.

Early morning, Sahula is lifted, Elbe to Kiel Canal, at Brunsbittel locks. The sun shines, rural green, mammoth ship steel walls, ducks, swans, peace, tranquility.

Rendsburg provides a friendly port approximately half way. Fresh bread, supplies, fuel, shower, washing, meal in town square, Stadthaus bells peel.

Holtenau locks lower Sahula to the Baltic. Crew takes "Ginger" tablets. NW'ly and Harry (self steering) sail Sahula towards Fehmarn Island enroute to the Swedish east coast. Night anchorage (4m) behind a sand spit, Heiligenhafen, bird sounds herald a sanctuary.

Sundowners (wine, crisps) welcome Skipper and Crew to the Baltic.

The Baltic is formed by a depression formed 3 million years ago. It is in continual movement due to land forms previously held by ice, now uplifting a metre/century. It is the world's largest area of brackish water. A cold climate, sea and decreased salinity impacts on natural diversity. First populated 11,000 years ago, todays, 85 million people further add to its detriment. Polluted (agriculture, industry cities, rivers)waters can take 25 years to replace. Impacting States have engaged international environmental law (Helsinki Convention 1974-1992) to ensure future protection.

A day/night passage to Sweden, starts with Mollie (spinnaker) ends with Tanya (motor) as the NW'ly abates on calm seas.

White wing tipped pidgeon circles Sahula, lands and circles again - welcome to Sweden.

Sky red, ruby, pink, grey, chill, calm sea, moon rises, "Harry" (self steering) sails Sahula through to morning port, Simrishamn - first port of call in Sweden.

Quiet, Sunday, Chai Latte (Kagen Cafe), Skipper sleeps.

Economic bite, meal ashore, beer - expensive.

Walk in stark budding forest, carpets blue, purple, into suburbia, wooden, pastel cottages, cobbled streets, white sails - window cameo of fishing heritage.

"We've changed course, going to Hano Island - too far to Karlskrona."

Sahula goose wings (wing on wing headsails) before the SW'ly, rolling, twisting.

Hano harbour, Baltic port for the British Baltic fleet during the Napoleonic war (1810-12) (defensible, strategic, escapable) is today, a quiet, small, fishing port. Sahula, alone, probably the first Australian yacht (200 SEK fee, (no fuel, food) Shower, toilet).

Crew trek to the lighthouse (Baltic's brightest -23 nm) across the barren rock.

English cross, cemetery, poignant testament to a sailor's arduous life.

Onto Karlskrona before SW'ly. Sahula enters islands to opening bridge (open on hour after notice +46 455 3322 40) and into marina.

Karlskrona, Sweden Navy HQ, World Heritage city, is quiet. Six Polish yachts, old, new, utilitarian, hold friendly crews on long weekend cruise. No fees, harbour master is on holidays - "Go to a nearby hotel."

Waynes Cafe yields internet and Chai latte and carrot cake.

Sahula's depth sounder is malfunctioning and needs replacement. Crew maybe "swinging the lead" (lead weight on line, walked bow to stern, depth called on striking bottom, cavity at base of lead extracts sea bottom material) till done.

Marine Museum displays national ship building and naval history. Wide boulavards, imposing architecture, wide city square, cathedral, evidence illustrious past.

Leonardi de Vinci Museum houses an orignal painting and an eclectic collection of art and artifacts.

Crew sunbakes behind cockpit covers, 8 degrees. Summer heralded?

Midnight, a knock on Sahula, "We would be honoured if you would join us for a vodka or gin...we very much admire you, you are our dream... we will understand if you do not come but we invite you to join us..."

Skipper rouses Crew. 20 young Poles (twenties, students, professionals) welcome crew aboard, raucous singing, Polish anthem, drinking songs, loud conversation. Vodka and Gin flow. Australian-Polish comaraderie - "We want to visit your country."

" I remember you said "I have been on many seas"... I will remember these words when I do sailing. We admire you...you must come to Poland, we are from Gdansk..."

"What do you think of our Baltic?" (It is cold.")

Crew excused at 0200.

Sahula's horn blasts announce departure to waving Poles. 10 nm through the "Skagarak" islands, sunny, cold wind, to an anchorage off Tarhamn village. A malfunctioning depth sounder keeps Sahula outside the small harbour (2-3m).

Sahula motors north to Kalmar in calm seas, against a light NW'ly. Skipper orders a new depth sounder to collect on arrival.

Kalmar is "...one of Sweden's oldest towns." It's cobbled street, well to do houses, baroque cathedral, resonate past and present wealth. It was a major port of the Hanseatic League (Baltic States trading association).

The well preserved, Kalmar Stott (castle), forbidding walls, green topped turrets, draw bridged moat - dominates the town. Home to royalty, the Union of Kalmar was signed there, in 1397, binding the crowns of Sweden, Denmark and Norway.

Attached to the marina (160/200 SEK facilities inclusive) is a superb ship chandlery (Baltic Skeppsfournering) which provides a new depth sounder, a crane and assistance. Sahula has to be lifted to install the transducer.

Next Report No. 86 - Kalmar, Visby (Gotland Island), to Stockholm.

Best

David

sv Sahula

Townsville.

Passage Report: 85

Australia 2012-3

Sydney: "Dad, you didn't answer my email" - to meet at airport. Skipper taxi's to friends.

Harbour sails, blue, Bondi beach brown bodies, Skipper's lily white, iconic harbour, surf, sunshine - vitamin D.

Relief - a sense of belonging, vibrancy, a different culture, land. Fresh, new, aspiring, uncluttered - a people content, balanced, self deprecating, humourous, at peace within - unbent, relaxed, hospitable - different.

Through the door, friends are there - surprise birthday party by wonderful daughters..

A birthday ballad sung:

"Captain of the Sahula"

He's the captain of the Sahula

He sails the seven seas.

He hardly ever comes ashore

Unless there is no breeze.

Unless there is no breeze.

He did fierce environmental law

To save our heritage.

He fought the gallant fight for us

Then left on his voyage.

Then left on his voyage.

He usually sails solo

But in the Arab Sea

He joined a jolly convoy

To avoid the piracy.

To avoid the piracy.

He passed the beauteous Lorelei

She never looked at he.

So to the northern climes he sailed

To the placid Zuiderzee.

To the placid Zuiderzee.

Composers/ songsters: Ben and Jeanette.

--

Skipper's "English" whiteness contrasts iconic Bondi Beach, surfing brown and bikini daughters.

Soon after, the speeding stratosphere "cigar" shared with 3-400 fellow travellers provides the inevitable - two days - jetlagged, ill. Flying is for birds!

Skipper gratefully occupies friends "shed" unit and "house sits" their home. Friends art studio allows Skipper to create Norwegian pastels.

To Brisbane visit elder aunt, friends. Fairweather art exhibition rekindles interest in an iconic Australian artist.

 

 

To Newcastle and camping at Barrington Tops. Senses sharpened, pristine, a flash of parrot red, a bounce of looping wallaby- red grey, colour streaked snow gum, kookaburra laughter, sonorous butcher birds, black - white magpies, barbed echidna - an incompassing tapestry, a years passing, refreshed bush wonder.

To Mellbourne for daughter, family, children and art.

To Canberra for Swedish visa, friends and the Gallery.

In Sydney, family time, delight in aspirations. Life moves on - father becomes observer, seer to independence - careers in law, business, marketing - elder characteristics, carried forward, added to, moulded to new directions.

What moulded the father, moulded the son, moulds the daughters, et seq.

Friends, acquaintances marvel at Skipper's experiences. Skipper in turn wonders at such interest. What makes the fearless "doing"? A background of trekking, mountaineering, sailing resolves to pure adventure. Fear becomes caution.

City scapes, life swirls, ignored into i phones, apps. City sounds subsumed to i tunes, earphones. Cars sweep by harbour ferries - the mantra is speed. Humanity, community bends before individual aspiration.

Sahulian lifestyle stands apart, heightening the simpler life, time to look, hear, see, colour, create, appreciate beauty in the inert, natural and human.

Sahula is bound for St Petersburg participating in the Cruising Association rally of some 26 yachts.

Russian Consulate, Sydney imprints the month long visa. Sweden provides a 6 months Visitors Permit. Schengen 3 months is held at bay.

Three months ensures it is impossible to legally, adequately cruise the Baltic from England.

Skipper ponders the ANZAC contribution to WW II, a democratic Europe that earns the rejection of a mere three months.

"Dad, you need these!" Daughter selects a tube, a pot. Skipper, dutifully, pays. The "tube," in small print, reads "anti-aging" cream! Skipper is 66!

"Dad, you apply a few dabs, rub in, warm wash off, then apply lotion - twice a day." Utopia achieved, logic undone!

"See you at the Sea Bay - written up for dumplings." Hard walls bounce a cacaphony, dumping conversation.

Syrian city restaurant, three daughters - life is good.

Dental work calls. Skipper visits Sydney Dental Hospital. "Fill out the forms, sir - talk to lady in next window."

"You wish an appointment, Sir"

"Yes, when?"

"Two to three years, Sir, we will contact you!"

Sydney Symphony, "1812 Overture" - cannon booming - under clear, summer, night sky, friends, fills the city Domain.

Friends return from Antarctica - Skipper's Patagonian "dream" seems closer.

It is time to leave - farewell friends, daughters, family, iconic Sydney. Australian warmth.

Into the flying "cigar" crammed with mass travellers bound for Istanbul. Skipper visits Turkish friends in Istanbul, Izmir, Urdu, and Yagcilar village.

Izmir dentist does superb, professional repair - at a price half Australia's equivalent. Gift of travel.

London, to welcome friends home, family, Sahula in Ipswich.

 

 

"You brought the sunshine" - next day cold, overcast - autumn delayed - "Not like this last year" - March warmth.

Skipper aboard, snow 40cm on deck.

Sunday roast, weekend, with cruising friends.

Skipper is "home" - preparations begin for a Sweden, Finland and St Peterburg departure in April.

Next Report - Ipswich to Baltic.

Best,

David

sv Sahula

April, 2013