Wednesday 16 October 2013


Passage Report: 97


Sahula

"Pan Pan Pan..."

"Pan, Pan Pan, this is the yacht Sahula, sierra, alpha..."

"Sahula, this is coastguard, your position, please..."

Rain, spray, rough, confused, seas, Sahula was at the mercy of tide and winds, drifting towards the sand banks and shore of Wangerooge Island and the Jade River estuary of the German Bight.

Without assistance, Sahula voyage would end.

Cruising is beholden to weather. Coastal cruising more so. The report showed rain and NW'ly winds, moderate then abating - a fast sail to Norderney Island (45nm).

A sailor is reliant on Reports and intuition. Both are sorely tested in the notorious North Sea and the German Bight.

Early morning voyages usually are in calm conditions. Sahula caught the tide, down the Elbe, remaining just outside the shipping channel and turned for Norderney on calm seas.




Rain clouds, grey, black swept the horizon. A westerly sea built during the morning; premising a change.

Skipper pondered turning back. The weather front brought unexpected, strong south-westerlies. Sahula under reduced sail, double reefed main and furled headsail, lunged, spray sweeping, towards the south.

Wind increased to 25 - 30 knots. Sahula slowed; rather than risk a night sail, Skipper opted for shelter in the German Bight's, Jade River.

Rough, confused, shallow water, seas sweeping the deck, raised risks in lowering the mainsail. It could stay till calmer waters.

Sea emergencies are measured in seconds over a fast moving, litany.

Tanya (engine) on, Sahula turned. High winds ensured the headsails could not fully furl. Sheets (ropes to sail) thrashed, instantly knotting.

Engine panel, red lights flashing, alarms screaming - temperature gauge: urgent - overheating. Push the black button. Sahula stopped - adrift.

Distant breakers seemed ominously close.

Sail free, turn, turn: Sahula did not respond. High winds, large seas, drove Sahula onto a lee shore. A sailor's nightmare had begun.

Help would need time.

"Pan, Pan, Pan...this is the yacht Sahula..."

Seconds passed: "Sahula, this is the coast guard... your position please..."

Glasses, spray covered, Skipper strained to read the GPS position. The "new" VHF microphone cord would not reach the cockpit.

" two ships are coming to your assistance, they will be there soon..."

Skipper's relief was palpable.

It strained belief that it was possible Sahula was on a long, slow drift to disaster. Fate was in the hands of competent others.

"Sahula, this is the coast guard, our vessel will put a line aboard, until a smaller ("SAR") boat will tow you to a safe harbour..."

"Mellum," is a large, multi-purpose, rescue ship designed to assist large commercial ships. She adroitly manouvered to enable a line aboard Sahula.




The other ship, a large pilot ship, stood off - a second line of defence.

A rocket fired, piercing the mainsail top; the thin white line was unreachable. Sahula danced away denying other skillfully thrown lines.

"Mellum" came closer, rolled - a saviours "metal wall" -Sahula's bow bounced off (damaging the metal bowspit) - a line was secure. Sahula was safe - held on a long line.




The breakers were denied.

"Voermann Steffen," a DGzRS (German "lifeboat" service) sped from Wilhemshaven into rough seas. Soon alongside "Mellum," she transferred the tow line. Sahula was enroute to a safe harbour.

Unbeknown to Skipper, there was concern that, not being visible (due to cockpit covers), he may be overboard. "Mellum" returned and a black helicopter came in close.

Sahula was manouvered alongside a pontoon in Hooksiel, a small Jade River port. She was safe.

"Steffen" moored on the opposite side. Skipper, enjoyed coffee aboard and thanked her skipper and crew.

Skipper, exhausted, bruised, mentally and physically, sort a long nights rest.

Next morning: "...this is Sahula Cruising..." An officer of the rescue coordination authority, seeking information about Sahula, read the blog. Skipper offered coffee aboard.

German hospitality knows no bounds; a tour of Wilhemshaven, a home visit (superb garden), dinner - ensured Skipper was on the mend.

Tanya's problem was resolved with a new impellor and reversing the water pump plate cover (opposite side was worn). So little, causing so much, in so short a time.

Skipper resolves to make changes aboard Sahula, and in how crew handles similar emergencies - lessons learnt.

The damage to Sahula was minor; irrelevant to ensuring a safe outcome.

Norderney (Friesen island, beach resort) provided a welcome marina (and a hot bath), after a short day, motoring into calm seas.

Skipper (and his Australian family) sincerely thanks the German sea rescue groups: Coast Guard, DGzRS and the pilot ship, for, so skilfully, ensuring Sahula's safety.

Next Report: Dalziel to Amsterdam: Mast Up Route through Holland's canals.

Best

David
11/09/2013

Passage Report: 98   
Sahula
Jaded, Rejuventated to Amsterdam

Cruising life is not for the feint hearted. Cruisers are adventurers; risk is a part. Wounds: physical, psychological, are toll for engaging - time the exilir.

Sahula returned to the Jade River estuary, wary, trusting to a calm, North Sea.


"...in an onshore wind, waves break in entrance... do  not enter above Force 4... Sahula edged in towards Norderney.


It was calm. Sahula entered - slowly - markers had changed - the bouys followed the shore - tourists waved.


"...your friend in Sea Rescue has just phoned as you came in...to check you were here..." (Harbour Master).


Sahula stayed two days R&R. Norderney (Island) is a tourist town.




"... your friend asked if you could leave the back way...(to Dalziel) what is your draft..."


Skipper noticed a small hole where the bowspit had lifted the deck. Crossing calm, tidal, mud flats, was appealing.


"...yes, we have a yacht going that way tomorrow...leaving... before high tide (3m)..." (Norderney Sailing School).


"Wiffies" (rammed tree branches) mark the shallows. 



Sahula "ploughed" soft mud, meandering bouy to bouy across the expanses of an estuary desert. Large ferries passed, impossibly, by.  

Dalziel offered a welcome marina. 


Sahula entered the lock into Holland's "Staande Mastroute" (mast up) canals to Amsterdam. 


Blunt bowed barges passing, ducks, geese, swans, verdent green, yellow fields, ancient sentinel windmills, erect modern wind turbines, red brick farms, spires, towns - lifting, swinging, parting, bridges - waving cyclists - along a watery ribbon to Groningen. 




Three days, alongside an ancient, inner city, stone wharf, under autumn trees - busy markets, bustling university students, bikes, bikes, bikes, cobbled streets, reeking Hanseatic history.





Art museum features works of rising Chinese (sexually frustrated) youth (every "thing" is "art"?) and "Ploeg" (plow) group - locally based, impressionist, modern, colourists - Skipper relishes "R & R.”




Ship museum records Holland's marine evolution from blunt bowed, load carriers, trading internally, to faster, sharp bowed Brigs, Barks, Schooners trading internationally.


News of Atlantic rescue of German friends on "Nada Brahma," (50 foot wooden, motor sailer, enroute to Brazil), in 50 knot, August, gale, heightens Skipper's resolve and caution.


"...you have a problem with the North Sea..." - Dutch sailor. 



Skipper reads "Motor Cycle Diaries of Che Guevara" - "...there is nothing lonelier than adventure..." - of his South America travels. 



"...go to Makkum...for Sahula's repairs..." (English friend).


German traveller provides Skipper with Friesland, canal chart to Makkum via Leewarden and Harlingen (off "mast up route" in Van Harinxmakanaal) "...enjoyed meeting you...I will send photos..." 











Dokkum, Leewarden (berth, inner town park), beautiful, historical, towns to Harlingen (HWSV marina 15e), seaport for the Waddenzee (seawaters inland of offshore Friesland islands). 




















Large, majestic, sailing (single (brig) or two masted (bark), some square rigged (schooner)) barges (chartered by students), under full sail, accompany Sahula from Harlingen, towards the Afshuitdijk lock, into the Ijsselmeer (inland sea) to Makkum. 













A mast "forest" greets Sahula entering Makkum estuary. 


"...a lot of Germans leave their yachts..."


Sahula seeks Gebr. van Elkhuizen shipyard (www.noordkaper.com) (info@noordkaper.com) 

"...welcome, staff will assist entry to a berth...how can we help you..."

Excellent facilities, friendly, efficient, management and staff, high quality workmanship, "Yanmar" mechanics, a "one stop shop" await - Sahula is lifted and moved to rest for some two weeks to enable repairs.









Symbolicly, the sun shines - a new bowspit, sails checked and repaired (UK de Vries), new batteries, battery charger replaced, deck repainted, feathering propellor overhauled, etc, etc - shortening the ever lengthening, "winter" list. 





















Skipper bicycles into the country; walks, sketches town and sea scapes - enters Dutch life in a small ancient place.










 
 
 



 
 






Skipper considers wintering at the shipyard but the Schengen visa issue (three months) determines returning to Ipswich.


Crew comes from England, time to leave - Sahula sails the Ijsselmeer into the Markermeer to Hoorn (Binnehaven, 15 e) and Amsterdam (Sixhaven 20 e).


October gales, rain and cold, recurring, repeating, rolling, Atlantic "lows," confine Sahula, frustrating Skipper. Crew returns home. 


Local friends, galleries (Van Gogh, Rijks); Skipper soaks a unique city and awaits the weather gods judgement.


Next Report: Amsterdam to Ipswich
Best
David
Amsterdam
16th October, 2013