Monday 1 December 2014

Passage Report No. 108
Sahula
Morocco


In Morocco's lee, winds decrease, Tanya drives Sahula down the coast. Fishing bouys and boats abound especially off the ports.

Sahula moves offshore past the Continental Shelf, 100m depth line, to avoid the fishing nets said to extend some 4 miles off shore.

Trawlers ply the waters far out but do not set, bouyed, nets.

Skipper, solo, rests, (egg timer set at 15 minutes) awoken by some premonition. A line of red flashing bouys indicates a net dead ahead.

It is clear Skipper cannot rest.

Ashore the flat, brown, bare, coastal plain stretches to hills in the distant blue. Towns are few. Surf breaks on yellow sand beaches.

"....Rabat marina this is the yacht Sahula..."

"This is Rabat marina you cannot come for two hours (till high tide)..."

Sahula entered in calm conditions, oblivious to the rapid change to 3m swells that distant Atlantic depressions would send to batter and close the port.

 
The marina pilot guided Sahula along the river to the new, Bouregreg marina (12e inclusive). Berths are alongside pontoons.

Customs and Immigration signed Sahula in at the fuel berth. A terrified, disinterested, alsation, dog was put aboard by customs.

The marina is part of an ultra modern riverside apartment development in the Rabat's twin city of Sale.
Mohamed VI's five fast motor launches occupy

Five sleek, motor launches (20-40 feet), owned by the Kings family occupy one wharf. A guard watches over them. Each morning the wharf is hosed and boats spruced, gleaming white.
Two machine totting soldiers accompanied by a Policeman, continuously walk the promenade.

Rabat is on the opposite bank. Modern Rabat is the capital of Morocco and official residence of the King.

Fertile inland plains and the Bouregreg River attracted settlers around 8th century BC. Sala at the up river site of the Chellah, was originally a Phoenician and Roman settlement and later a Berber kingdom.

The latter built the "Ribat" - fortress monastery - where today stands the Kasbah les Oudaias dominating the river entrance.











The Chellah declined as Sale prospered in the 10th century.

In the 12th century, Sale declined as Ribat prospered with changing dynasties, trade and as staging post for battles in Andalucia (Spain).

Intended to be the world's largest mosque; Hassan Mosque's creator's (El Monsour - "The Victorious") death (1199) left it unfinished.

His death also initiated Ribat's decline until the 17th century. Moslem refugees (from Spain) as well as Moorish pirates or corsairs - the Sallee Rovers, notoriously, rejuvenated the city.

Roving to America, England, Europe it was not till the 19th century that Portugual, Spain and France curtailed their activities.

When France moved (from Fez and Marrakech) its administrative capital to Rabat in 1912, the city was revived to its present status.

The "nouveau" centre with its colonial architecture, wide palm lined boulevards, white and clean, are in marked contrast to Sale, where time stood still, retaining within its orange, walls, twisting streets noisy with colourful arab, hustle and bustle.

A week passed until daughter Annalise arrived from Paris (father-daughter "bonding") for time in Marrakech and an Atlas Mountains trek with Aztat Trekking.

"...hello is that Aztat Trekking..."  (also called Mountain Travel Morocco).

"...Mohamed here, yes, I will arrange, Marrakech accommodation (Riad dar Khmissa), taxi to Imlil, a guide, a cook and mule, a two day trek, accommodation in Imlil (Riad dar Adrar) and a taxi to Marrakech..."

The four hour train (Rabat to Marrakech) invariably takes five -  passing bone, dry, country side interspersed with rocky hills, villages, tented poverty and Cactus green (farmed for fine, cosmetic oil).
Arrival in Marrakech was in drenching rain, a year first.

"...don't worry, it will stop at 2100..."

Previously a family home, the Riad dar Khmissa's welcoming staff ensure it oozes pleasant, islamic, comfort within the walls of the Medina (old city).







Rain stopped. "...Toukbal restaurant provides good (safe) food..." at the Djemma El-Fna - main Medina square.

UNESCO declared the Square a "Masterpiece of World Heritage" (2001). Its crowds continually entertained by snake (cobras) charmers (?), monkeys, musicians, dancers and story tellers. In evenings some 100 chefs set up towed grills.

The back street Riad,  provides much needed peace and quiet.

"...I am your guide, Ibrahim, your taxi is ready..." to Imlil, mountain village, in the High Atlas, under Jebel Toubkal (4167m - Morocco's highest) where the trek starts.

A sweet, herbal tea, packs on the mule and away. It is a fine, cool, blue, clear day.


On the pass, Mustafa, prepares lunch, while Skipper and crew relish the endless view - snow capped peaks, colourful red, brown valleys and villages.





Guide assures that the Barbary Lion, the largest North African lion specie, famed for their thick black manes, was no longer roaming the Atlas forests due to hunting and habitat loss; except in the King's Rabat zoo. Lonely Planet reports a genetic science program is attempting to recreate the specie for release in the protected area of the Atlas.

"...if they do that I will not be here..." Guide.

To the village "Gite" (basic, clean, pleasant resthouse with hot showers) where Mustafa again works his culinary magic.












Ascend over another pass and into Imlil to Riad dar Adrar, hot shower, superb food and the company of many European travellers.

"...this one (carpet) is from the desert (yellow, red, blue motif)...what is your price...?"

see above


It joins Nepalese and Turkish cushions and settee covers, in Sahula's colourful saloon. A silver metal "hand" ensures the safety (with the American indian feathered rondel and Turkish "eye") of Sahula and crew.

After the peace of mountains and villages, Marrakech is hectic. Again between Sultans palaces, mausoleums (with beautiful mosiacs), a a lively souk, Sahula is a welcome respite.

Skipper sketches the mosiacs and boats of Rabat against the Kasbah background.

see above

Crew extends her time to crew along the coast to Agadir.

"...the harbour is closed...3.5 m swells are breaking at the harbour mouth..."
see above

For five days, Sahula was "trapped" (with 8 fellow cruising yachts). Surfer boarders relished the perfectly curling crests.

2-3.5 m swells swept in from Atlantic depressions far distant from Morocco's exposure.

Crew must depart, Skipper will continue solo.

"...that's a good idea..." all crews enjoy the comaraderie of a "wharf" party.

"...you can leave, wait on your boat, the officials will come..." - harbour master.

"... you must bring your boat to the customs wharf...for the dog..." Customs.

Despite remaining in Morocco water and visiting other harbours, all yachts must undergo full immigration and customs officialdom on arrival and departure, in each Moroccan port.

Hours later, the fleet heads to sea, with some apprehension as entrance swells, steeply lift, bows.
Sahula is free. Sails up before a light NW'ly on a relatively calm sea to El Jadida, a night sail, distant. In the evening, Mollie (spinnaker) provides ideal sailing into a pitch black night.

Risk of fishing nets ensures Skipper has no rest.

El Jadida is a welcome harbour. In the morning dark, the boom of surf ponding ashore, ensures Sahula awaits dawn.

Swiss yacht accompanies Sahula to port.






"...you will have to anchor in port...the wharf is too shallow..."

"...you will pay 246 dirhams ( 10 - 15m -  35 AUD per day, more expensive than Spanish coast ports)..." to anchor with no facilities.

"... it is the same in all ports...marinas are private...(and less cost with facilities).

"...this is a fishing port...they (harbour) don't like yachts..."

"...sign here..." (Captain); "...you must go to immigration at 1430..."; "... after you must come with me to pay..." (and more forms).


Hundreds of small, red, green, white and black, wooden boats, fish local waters and on their return, sell a wide variety of fish, to a hectic, smelly, noisy, harbourside, fish market.

El Jadida, is also known as Cite Portugaise. In 1506, the Portuguese built a harbour fortress to protect their ships from pirates.

It was destroyed by various Sultans and rebuilt in the 19th century. The name El Jadida is "new one" in Arabic.

A heritage photograph of a government Minister's entourage, disembarking in the port, includes his harem - some twenty, white covered ladies.

The town prospered with busy trading of the  large Jewish community. There was no Jewish quarter (mellah), they lived with the locals in easy tolerance. Eventually, the ports administrative role was lost to Safi and Casablanca, remaining a busy, small boat,  fishing port.

The towns long beaches ensured a tourism driven revival.

Local architecture,  the Fort and the Citerne Portugaise evidence the European cultural past.

Winds are SW; "on the nose" for Sahula. Skipper opts to wait for light winds or a NW'ly. Daily conditions are checked, Wednesday, Thursday...

The passport "stamper" official requires two hours notice. It is a 12 hour (60nm) sail to Safi, the next fishing port.

The next marina is in Agadir, some 4-5 days passage with stops possible in Safi and Essouria. Solo, Skipper prefers only one night at sea.

Sahula sails on a clear, blue day, before a moderate NW'ly bypasses Safi to continue to Essouria.

Essouria can only be entered safely in daylight.

Essouria denied: a strong SW'ly change whips a steep, short sea atop the 2-3 metre swells. Sahula, driven by Tanya, pounds, water floods over the deck. Progress slows, then stops. Sahula turns to run back to Safi. Directly astern, the course requires running along the coast and then when offshore turning to run into Safi port.

11 other yachts are in Safi. All awaiting a NW'ly to transit to the Canary Islands.

"...Port Captain says there never has been so many..."

Some were with Sahula in Rabat.

Safi is a major phosphate and mineral export and fishing, port with no harbour facilities for yachts. Massed fishing boats crowd the port end.

Yachts are squeezed in, racked alongside, extending some 6 boats into the harbour. Two yachts are under 30 feet, two families (two small children) crew another two. A cruising community, brought together by a similar destination and adverse weather.

Safi is a friendly place. Officials ask if everyone is ok and entry bureaucracy is speedy.

"...you are going to Carefours (supermarket), I will take you..." aboard a Docker (Chinese) motor scooter. Driver skims through crowded streets.

Past the old Portuguese fort and old city walls, gleefully waving to all, the driver arrives at Carefours.

Safi is old Portuguese fortified harbour now an industrial and fishing port town. Local life is untrammelled by tourism. The new city exudes prosperity - wide, palm tree lined boulevards between white washed villas and commerical building.

Restock in rucksack, the Docker wends its way through the impossibly narrow, crowded, colourful, busy streets of the ancient walled, medina, back to the harbour.

A NW'ly is forecast on the grib files weather reports.

"...we think you should not leave, weather is not good..." Port Captain.

"...a NW'ly is here in the morning, we leave at 0600 -0700..."

"...we take no responsibility... you agree...." Port Captain.

Skipper takes on fuel, brought in large containers and transferred to Sahula's - 10 dirhams a litre (approx $1.00) with backsheesh (100 dirhams)

Skipper rigs the Para Anchor (chain bridle forward shackled to 15 mm rope tied by electrical ties to gunwale and into the cockpit where it can be attached the Anchor and dispatched over the side breaking the ties while it streams from the bouy" as a caution against forecast, storms nearer the Canaries.

Sahula is ready. Valerie (wind vane self steering - Hydrovane) steers with sails only - over 15 knots with two reefs in mainsail and furled headsails; Tom (Raymarine Tillerpilot 2000) steers Valerie's using her small tiller when motor or motorsailing. AIS and Radar alarms give notice of shipping (only large ships, many fishing boats do not have AIS); cockpit covers and plastic sides ensure Skipper or crew are dry and out of wind.

The fleet is abuzz, Sahula leads out of the port to be met by a moderate SW'ly - the NW'ly has not arrived - delayed, it is due later in the afternoon. The fleet continues to sea.

The SW'y builds to 26 knots. Sahula, mainsail reefed, headsail furled, plunges into a rising sea. Rain squalls sweep in.

It is due to change to NW after 1500 hours. The fleet scatters as smaller boats lag, larger cut through. It is a slow, rough, uncomfortable, challenging, day.

"Jonathan," classic, timber, Dutch, fifty footer, tramps by, heavy, deep - in her element.

One yacht (with two children) suffered a torn mainsail and headed to Agadir.

Caution and survival are the order of the day.

Progress is slow. Skipper, solo, opts to passage to Agadir, Morocco, a night sail down the coast rather than cross over two nights to Lanzarotte in the Canaries. The delay from Safi, runs the risk of storms nearer the Canaries, due in, in two days. Sahula will cross the the Canaries from Agadir with another NW'ly change. It is a one night, two day, passage.

In the late afternoon, the NW'ly change finally arrives. Weather improves. Sahula, in the night dark, under full main, Tanya, ensuring a direct course, moves slowly south.

Skipper takes 20 minute rests, relying on alarms on radar and AIS to alert of shipping.

Morning dawns golden, off Cabo Smir, beyond the High Altas walls the coast. 12 nm to Agadir.

"....Sahula this is Jonathan..."

"...Agadir Marina is advising yachts to leave as 5.5m swell is expected...the marina will be unsafe..."

Sahula turns for Lanzarotte, Canary Islands; some 119nm. A second night at sea.

Sahula is tramping at 7 knots before a brisk NWly. A close reach coursed across the seas.

"...Ophir Tenerife (passing large cargo vessel)...this is yacht Sahula... could I have a weather report..."

"...Yes, I have just received it: W/NW 4-7 for 24 hours..."

Sahula cuts into a rising Westerly; black rain squalls bring 26 knot gusts and driving rain.

Long, lowering, swells, mournful in the beauty, roll into seeming infinity. Frigate birds glide majesticly, effortlessly, gracefully, challenging the breaking waves tumbling into the valleys.

Dolphins, sleek, sea torpedos, play in the bow wake. Skipper watches from the bow pulpit; they turn as if to wink "...we are with you...sea creature..."

Sahula leans to a 30 knot squall, pounds the sea, lifts, shaking, continuing confidently into the inky blackness seeking the land light, loom of Lanzarotte island.

Day breaks, dark clouds, leavened pink over a silver grey sea, change to white, yellow and blue.
Blue land ahead with 30 km to go.

Skipper prepares for the harbour approach. Amongst the sparkling white shore lights, a lead green. In sync with the Digital chart GPS, Sahula rounds into the harbour. All is calm.

It is 0200. Two marina staff welcome Sahula.

"...is there only you?..."

Brand new (Oct) Lanzarotte Marina, safe behind huge walls, provides for a long sleep.

"...you go to the Police (immigration)...at the passenger terminal...they don't come to the boat...do this tomorrow..."

Police check the computer and stamp the passport (only again checked on exit from Spain. It is in sharp contrast to Morocco's bureaucracy.

Skipper dines in Asiatico Restaurant staffed by Chinese Spanish students.

"...my family came to Barcelona long time ago then here...I have done a Business Degree...I am returning to China...there is more money and opportunity there..."

Skipper can recall in the 1970's when aboard British cargo ships, Chinese crews worked for pittance wages they'd send back home to support their poor families. Times change.

Advice on cruising the Moroccan coast to the Canaries:

    1. Avoid being on the coast in November. Arrive in the Canaries in mid to late October.

    2. Weather breaks into strong NW/ SWlies. Changing with small depressions moving from the Atlantic.

    3. Atlantic swells over 2m may close Moroccan ports. 3m swells will do so at Rabat. All ports are impacted by the swells.

    4. Avoid Rabat in November as swells send large surf into the harbour. Short periods when 2 m or less will open the harbour but long delays can be expected. Marina provides a pilot boat to escort yachts in and out of harbour.
Yachts could go to Mohamedmedia, a few hours south where their is a marina and regular trains to Rabat, Casablanca and Marrakech.

    5. Rabat marina is excellent, staff are friendly. It is excellent for leaving the boat and travelling. It is not overly expensive. King has his family motor yacht fleet at the marina so security is tight but not intrusive.

    6. Rabat city is well worth a visit with many attractions. Its twin, Sale is more traditional. Both cities are secure. People are welcoming and pleasant.

    7. Jadida is a fishing port which has no facilities for yachts. If a low "low" tide anchoring is necessary. One yacht dragged at night. Port staff would prefer yachts don't visit. The Portuguese fort and cistern are interesting but generally it is run down. The Yacht club did not offer any facilities or any welcome. Port Restaurant on top of club, is excellent.

    8. Safi a fishing port has  no facilities for yachts. Only extreme swells would affect the entry. There is no anchorage. Yachts are racked alongside set harbour boats. Safi is an interesting town, well worth a visit. Port staff are very pleasant and welcoming.

    9. Essouria is a fishing port. No facilities for yachts. Entry is reputed to be dangerous when large swells go between the island and port entrance. Entry at night would be difficult. It is more than a day sail given booking out of Safi takes critical time.

    10. Agadir has a marina. It is dangerous in large swells. Yachts were there but moved to a fishing harbour which was also damaged by the swells. If necessary avoid it and go to Lanzarotte.

    11. All ports require entry and exit processes which while said to be 24 hours requires negotiation to ensure early departure.

    12. All ports ie not with private marinas, charge 246 dirhams per night, for a 12 m boat, regardless that there are no facilities at all. Its a government set fee for harbour use.

    13. Despite harbour challenges, Morocco is a wonderful place and the people are very hospitable, helpful and welcoming.

Next Report: Passage Report 109: Canaries, Cape Verdes to Caribbean.

Best
David
sv Sahula
November, 2014.
Lanzarotte, Canaries, Spain.

Sunday 16 November 2014





Passage Report: No. 107

Palau, Corsica, Majorca, Ibiza, Spanish Coast to Gibraltar

Crew, Matt, arrives, food, fuel, water aboard, Sahula departs Palau.

Tanya (motor) drives through the Bonifacio Straits (between Corsica, Sardenia) Sahula to anchor under Punta (cape) Marmorata.

Crew, young, of the computer generation, works on software required to navigate (worldwide charts (CM93), GPS), receive internet and SSB weather reports, tidal information and assist passage planning. Buttons pushed, nonchalance, concentration, patience - a challenge.

"...you can do it...just work through..." (to Skipper).

"...what is a directory... a folder...?" (Skipper)

Sahula has three laptops. C3, the oldest bathed (during the German rescue) in salt water, soldiers on but is failing, "New" 14 inch laptops, C2 and C1 contain Open CPN - free digital chart software to ensure Sahula has digital charts.

Computer digital charts replace very expensive (30 e) paper charts but risk boat power failure.
Salt air environment is minimised by locating navigation computers below but visible from the cockpit.

Skipper reattached wiring after raising the mast in France. The tricolour (port, starboard, aft lights in one top mast light) did not work. Crew determines incorrect wiring. Skipper is relieved and grateful.

Crew treks to Cape obelisk and mystical rock formations.




Autumn thunderstorms, lightning, threaten Sahula moving east to walled, hill top, Castelsardo village and marina (24e all inclusive (5/10))



Through narrow alleyways, Crew ascend to the castle.






Originally, "Castegenovese" it was the "...principal Genovese defence along northern Sardenia. An 11th century cathedral dominates.

Crowds of men line the street

"What is it?"

"We don't know, maybe a festival..."

From a side street, a man in white clothes and  long cap.



Women carrying religous icons solmenly wait.

"It's a funeral..."  The icon carriers, pallbearers next, priest, hearse and crowds flood into the street. A good man/woman is wished well in eternity.

Resorts, houses splatter the coast. The red, yellow ochre at least blending with the rocky headlands.
It seems town planning is non-existant.

Sahula crosses the bay to Stintino fishing village and marina (32e all inclusive).




"This (bottle of local wine) is for you, welcome to our town..." Stintino is the gateway to the Asinara National Park and Marine Reserve.

Sahula crosses to Passaggio di Fornelli to anchor overnight. She will cruise to the Spanish, Balaeric Islands (Menorca, Mallorca, Ibiza) some 190 nm west.

The Passage is shallow "...it should not be used in strong westerfly or easterly winds..." due to swell reducing depth.

Sahula moors to a bouy off Asinara Island.

Anchoring is forbidden; Sahula takes a bouy. Sea grass darkens the depths.

The island has had a fishing village (moved to Stintino) "...a quarantine...then a WWI POW camp...later a "super-prison for Mafia criminals...closed in 1997..."

Other than the all pervading walls of forebidding, prison facilities, it is a large, bleak, barren, rocky, mountainous, place.

"...you cannot stay here...you can go north..." Parks official.

Sahula moors to bouys in northern Cala d'Oliva. Ashore a near deserted, ghost, white village, previously served a prison, now tourists. Wild boars, donkeys and goat eek existance from the bone dry landscape.



Rounding Punta della Scorno, Sahula sets course for Mahon on Menorca island. LaMMA weather site (Italian) gives the all clear. A Mistral has passed, ensuring (?) a fine passage.

"This is my first night at sea..." Stars illuminate the clear, dark night. Thunderstorms, lightening to the east.

Tanya takes Sahula through the night. A morning breeze fills Mollie (MPS - spinnaker), Valerie (wind vane self steering) relieves crew. Wind, increases from astern, yankee  pole winged; Sahula quickens to Menorca.



Mahon harbour lights loom in the morning darkness (0400) High fort walls guard the entrance to a long harbour, lined with marinas, wharves, crowded with boats. Sahula takes any berth.

"...sort it out in morning..." Sahula moves to Marina Mahon (44e).






Large seas, whipped by a 20 knot NE'ly, swirl across the deck departing Mahon. Sahula sails to Menorca. Thunderstorms light the horizon overnight.

Superyachts pack Palma - it is Oyster Yacht Week.

Skipper queries a marina cost - 83e. Sahula joins Kristiane (Australian yacht) at Cala Nova Marina (64e) in a nearby bay, south.

Crew leaves for Morocco (visa issue). A doctor, he has enlisted to join medical teams in Sierra Leone combating an ebola epidemic.

Crew provides information on Schengen visa procedure:

When entering EU, two periods commence:
1. three month visa period;
2. Six months period before grant of another three months.
If three months is used intermittently, it fits into the six months. From when the last visa use period expires to the end of the six month period is the time to await another three month visa. Conceivably, the visa expiring and the six months ending could coincide. If so an applicant would have to leave the EU and re-enter.
If the three month visa period is not all used within six months then the visa period regenerates to another three months at the end of the six months.

All comments gratefully received!

Skipper buys cruising guide to Spanish coast and charts (Drake Marine).

Palma Cathedral towers over city. Skipper visits the Royal Palace, used by the current monarch.





Sahula anchors in a bay preparatory to passaging to Ibiza.

Harry, Belgian yachtsman, relates how he sailed the world to NZ but not to Australia.
"...I heard they don't treat visiting foreign yachts well...too short a visa and bureaucratic...in NZ, a letter gives 6 month visa ..."

Dolphins play in the bow wave - the first in the Mediterranean -

"Eurocargo Salerno this is yacht Sahula" - travelling at 17knots on likely collison course - AIS information.




"This is...Sir, it is difficult for me to alter course, I am running with the wind..."

"Yes, Sir, I will alter course to port..."

Skipper completes reading a history of Morocco. Commences reading a History of Spain - Payne (Kindle) - two nations closely entwined in Arab (Moor) past.

White houses, high rise hotels, resorts, incongruously, wall the Ibiza coast.

Ibiza is the "party island."

Sahula anchors in Talamarca Bay, nearby Ibiza harbour.




"...very expensive marinas here...better on Spain coast..."

Superyachts, floating palaces, crowd the town marina.The black superyacht belongs to James Packer, Australian casino owner.



Some suffer!



They bring to mind the erudition of Thomas Piketty, "Capital in the Twenty-First Century":

"...when the rate of return of capital exceeds the rate of growth or output and income as it did in the Nineteenth Century and seems quite likely in the Twenty-First Century, Capitalism automatically generates arbitary and unsustainable inequalities that radically undermine the meritocratic values on which democratic societies are based..."
"...bankers cut off from society, paid huge sums, well outside their needs...are the seeds of revolution...wealth in touch, related to society, sharing contributions to social/ political solutions, may set off anger but if separate, will cause revolution..."

Owners, high on the top deck, secluded, waited on by uniformed crew, entertain. Tourists camera click.





 Skipper walks to the old Ibiza town past wall to wall hotels - ugly, formidable - the natural world aching, unseen.

Old town Ibiza clusters, anciently, around and a hilltop citadel. Below tourisms white blocks, bland, endless, dumb the cityscape.







"You may like to meet my Aunt, she lives out of Ibiza..." Friends in England.

"I will collect you..." Skipper is met by Angie -  an elder "young", artist, sculptress.

"...I moved to Ibiza many years ago to live in the family home...I want you to see the garden..."

Skipper walks it many paths, alongside wonderous nature, set beautifully, (Monet like)...nook, cranies, a pool, "secret" places... behind loose stone unforbidding sculptured, walls - a privilege to see, marvellous to enjoy, around a ochre, beamed, hacienda. An artists creative retreat.









It was created by English friend's parents who migrated from cold UK for warm Ibiza.

"Go out, left to the doors...I will open them..." - Skipper is in Angie's art studio amongst superb paintings.

A remarkable, talented, lady; a privilege to meet.

"...we had a terrible storm a few days ago, water flooded harbour promenade shops..."

It is October, the SE'lies have set in, NE'ly are rare. Sahula faces a long windward sail or motor, south, to Gibralter.

Sahula moves to Formentara Island anchoring in Cala Boix - departs at dusk for the Spanish coast on a clear, moonlight night (some 60 nm).

Sahula is sailing, a calm sea, on landfall, a course is set south to Tabarca Island.

Ashore, wall to wall, white, high rise. Ugly sentinels to tourisms gods.

Arrival off Tabarca in a rising SE'ly. Evening is closing. Thick weed makes anchoring impossible, the only option is the wall wharf in the small, shallow, fishing harbour.

A sign: "...no mooring, only for Tourist boats..." Sahule ties alongside a rough stone wharf. The sun sets red over a darkening sea and rising wind, pinning Sahula.

"...resolve it in the morning..."

Skipper rises at 0500 woken by waves slapping against the stern. Fenders ready, Sahula backs out, changed wind assists moving the stern off.

Sahula motors to Cartegna; a rare natural harbour. Forts mount every hill. A long day.





"...Sahula this is Kristiane, Channel 72..." Helpful marina staff assist at the berth.

Established some 1000 years past (around 243 BC), used by  Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Barbarians (Visigoths), Moors (Islam) to modernity. Hannibal used it as a base for his crossing (on an elephant) of the Alps (Pyrannees), the Roman general Publius Cornelius Scipio, destroyed it (209 BC). St James the Great landed here in AD 36 to spread Christianity. Philip II (16th C) fortified the hills, Drake stole its guns (to fortify Jamaica), Charles III established the naval base and the Spanish Civil War (1936-39) the Republicans held out (in under city tunnels) against heavy air bombing against forces of General Franco, ("...the most  extravagantly praised and most scathingly condemned figure in all Spanish history..." - "...none of the kings of early centuries weilded proportionally as much power or so drastically change the course of  the country...he was the most successful counter revolutionary of the 20th century... the most successful dictator..."), Germany (Hitler) and Italy (Mussolini) (Guide p108).

Spains largest urban archaelogical site, a roman theatre, bull ring, museum provide a superb city history.




A Civil War Museum documents, poignantly, Cartegna stand against Franco's, ultra right, fascist, forces.

A land riven by invasions, wars and plague. "...like all European States ... the borders did not encompass a single nation till relatively recently... when Spain was contiguous, its parts retained their historical character and independence (Catalan, Castile, Basque)...the diversity in regions and their character affected national economic development... progress was marred by internal conflict... none worse than... the Civil War..."

Spain is unique in being the only land invaded by Islam that has completely eradicated (cleansed) its religious, social and political, influence. Millions (including Christianity converts) were driven to Morocco. Only architecture remains.

The dry, rocky mountains of Cale de la Salitrona, an hour from Cartegna, provides an anchorage, a swim, a walk ashore to coastal forts - O300, Sahula rolls and pitches; in the morning darkness, anchor away, escape to sea.



Ashore, purple, pink, blue mountains. Red sun rising.

A sheen sheets the land, "Is it an early morning fog?" - a bizarre, massive, modern art installation over a ruined, hidden land?

Plastic sheeting, plastic hothouses, over thousands of hectares, covers the plain to the high mountains, peaking through the brown fog of pollution.

"...the farmers are wealthy, they provide the city with  vegetables and fruit..."

"... caution... when anchoring plastic sheeting lifted by storms may cover the sea bottom..." - Guide.

A catamaran, heading to the coast, sails up, motor on, converges on Sahula with no sign of crew. It passes close astern.

"...white catamaran this is ...."

"...this is white catamaran..."

"Sir, I am checking all is ok...your boat was on collison course with no one on deck..."

"Thank you, Sir, I was below...oh, yes I see you now..."

"Sir, you need to keep a more frequent watch..."

"Thank you, Sir..."

Sailing, motoring, Sahula enters Garrucha fishing harbour and almost deserted, 300 berth, modern, marina (20e).



Tourism's hotels, restaurants lift the economy. Gypsum, mined locally, is piled high from continually visiting trucks to the ship loading wharf. A fine dusk pervades the harbour.

Open to the prevailing SE'lies, a night gale rises; Sahula pitches. In the early morning, Skipper runs more lines. An hour and it is gone.

Mediterranean coastal weather is continually changing and difficult to forecast. Weather systems (high, lows) are small and fast moving. Digital weather sites use grib files (weather satellite created maps showing "arrowed" wind, colour and "tailed feathers" show strength), adjusted locally. Sahula's weather forecasts are LaMMA (Italian) and Passage Weather and NAVTEX (on shipboard receiver). There are many others. Generally, they are accurate though, they lack local detail.

"...hello...met five Australian boats here...going south to Gibraltar...." Australian cruiser. The ARC (trans Atlantic rally) from Canaries to Caribbean starts in November.

"I am selling it...local buying...too much goes wrong...I've made a profit...no more cruising yachts...had enough...too much trouble (davits collapsed in a gale, engine, problems etc)...a charter boat not a sea boat..." 40 foot Lagoon catamaran.

0100, all is calm under a full moon. Sahula heads to sea, rounds Cabo de Gata and pitches into a rising SE'ly. Sahula sheds short, steep, shallow water, seas. Deck awash,

Tanya drives on to Almerimar to meet with Australian friends on "Kristiane."

Welcoming marina staff guide Sahula to a calm berth (7e/night).

Sahula is to be lifted (222e), bottom wash (79e) set on the hard stand (7e/night - live on boat), antifouled and a long "to do" list shortened.




Soft antifoul paint applied in Ipswich, UK, was, mostly, wiped off by French canal weed.

The solid, standard propellor attached in Ipswich (for the canals)  is also to be replaced by the original, Australian "Seahawk" feathering propellor (reducing drag, by some half a knot).

Raymarine "Tiller pilot" was also repaired (Mario, 650 337714).

"Hydrovane" self steering pins (6) are machined by local. One sheered at sea.

"...pins need to be replaced regularly, vane cover is replaced each year..." Vane cover split with sun deterioration after one year.

A superb supermarket - "...cheapest so far..." ensures Sahula is well stocked.

"...it is ok..." local advice on aged ATM. Skipper is skeptical. Card in, no cash, no card! Panic! Local pushes rusted buttons, minutes pass - relief - card appears.

Almerimar, is a new resort town, centred on a lush, garden, golf course and marina, all built on reclaimed land seaward of the high, coastal cliffs.

Skipper decides to invite German student, Tobias as Atlantic crew. A difficult decision as all applicants, from CA crew website, are pleasant.

Food, fresh water, fuel, bill paid - time to go. Sahula needs to leave the Mediterranean before the onset of winter storms.

First winter snow coats the coastal ranges. Sahula heads south, in company with Kristiane, to anchor in Ensendada de la Herradura - (5m sand) bay.



"...we wish to board..." black customs boat - black uniform crew check Sahula's papers. "...I have a relation in Sydney..." Passport is returned - relief - Skippers EU visa is long expired (three months).

"...Sahula calling "Arctic Sunrise"..." - to thank them (Greenpeace) for protecting the world's oceans - no answer. Ship is being closely shadowed by the Spanish coast guard.




Ashore wall to wall, ugly, highrise across a polluted brown sea.

Marina de Bajadilla, Marbella, welcomes Sahula. Marbella Marina is full.

"...yes, I will fill your gas bottles..." Sahula's Australian gas bottles last some 12 months with careful use. (Gas Service International www.gasbottleirefill.com Phone: 616969496)

Old Marbella, set amid tourism's highrise, with winding alleys and lush green tree-ed squares and islamic tiled seats, reflects its muslim past.







The "Gates of Hercules," Gibraltar's hump, iconic rock, gateway to Mediterranean looms, horizon blue.





Sahula is nearing the Atlantic - returning to the ocean from a calmer, smaller, sea.

Skipper feels some trepidation in the unknown, half a world from home.

Across, clearly visible sets Africa.

Sahula rounds Europa Point with its large (newly built) Islamic mosque representing the Islamic past (11th century) and African Mahgreb (Islamic north Africa). The minaret and lighthouse welcoming sailors to Gibraltar. Ships, in mass, ply past or anchor in Gibraltar Bay.

A British self-ruled, "more British than England," colony (since 17th century), it offers  a muted response to Spain's claim; no Union Jack flies conspicuously over the "Rock."

Sahula calls (VHF) Queensway Quay Marina. "...yes we have a berth..." Skipper had heard it was full. Many yachts are leaving the Mediterranean for the ARC Rally from the Canary Islands, south of Morocco.



An 18th century, Spain - Britain treaty, ensures the Rock remains British as long as it favours British citizenship. A referendum leaves no doubt.






Locals man a booth, asking for signatures to a petition asking Queen Elizabeth II to visit the Rock.

Fish and Chips, bacon and eggs, pubs, main street... Gibraltar's  Britishness oozes into its sinews.

"...I moved here for the sunshine...it's like being home..."

Barbary Apes (tail-less monkeys) hold vigil from the summit.

  
The high cliffs, facing Spain, are hewn with tunnels for cannons used to rebut the the Great Siege (1779-83 - last Spanish invasion). 





Dinner aboard Kristiane before departure through the Gibraltar Strait to Morocco.

Skipper notices the Yankee (sail) furler requires repair. Australian sailors, Eric and Diane generously assist.

Sahula, too late to depart, anchors in the bay and leaves early morning.

Strong easterly currents, particularly in mid channel, set W to E due to sea level being less in Mediterranean (caused by evaporation) than Atlantic. Tides flow along the coast. Shipping Traffic Zones complete a complex, challenging waterway.

Skipper plans to sail close to Europe coast with an exit tide, cross the Traffic Zones from Tarifa to Tangier (and the W-E current) and down the Morocco coast to Rabat.

Sahula sails across calm seas, before an easterly wind and favourable current and tides to Morocco's Cap Spartel before turning south.

Gibraltar's Gates close, Spanish Andalucia, Cape Tarifa, the last land of Europe, fades into the blue.
Sahula sails into the Atlantic. Australia is half a world away.

Swirling seagulls sweep the sea fishing in current turbulence. Coastal rocks are dotted white and noisey. Sahula is back amongst natures abundance.

Subsequently, other yachts experienced steep seas, gale force winds and strong currents.

"...we took 10 hours from Gibraltar to Morocco...very rough...my crew (wife) was not happy..."

 Leaving the Mediterranean Sea for the vastness of the Atlantic Ocean ensures challenges ahead.

Next Report No. 108 - Morocco.

Best
David
sv Sahula
November, 2014