Sahula
Morocco
In Morocco's lee, winds decrease, Tanya drives Sahula down the coast. Fishing bouys and boats abound especially off the ports.
Sahula moves offshore past the Continental Shelf, 100m depth line, to avoid the fishing nets said to extend some 4 miles off shore.
Trawlers ply the waters far out but do not set, bouyed, nets.
Skipper, solo, rests, (egg timer set at 15 minutes) awoken by some premonition. A line of red flashing bouys indicates a net dead ahead.
It is clear Skipper cannot rest.
Ashore the flat, brown, bare, coastal plain stretches to hills in the distant blue. Towns are few. Surf breaks on yellow sand beaches.
"....Rabat marina this is the yacht Sahula..."
"This is Rabat marina you cannot come for two hours (till high tide)..."
Sahula entered in calm conditions, oblivious to the rapid change to 3m swells that distant Atlantic depressions would send to batter and close the port.
The marina pilot guided Sahula along the river to the new, Bouregreg marina (12e inclusive). Berths are alongside pontoons.
Customs and Immigration signed Sahula in at the fuel berth. A terrified, disinterested, alsation, dog was put aboard by customs.
The marina is part of an ultra modern riverside apartment development in the Rabat's twin city of Sale.
Mohamed VI's five fast motor launches occupy
Five sleek, motor launches (20-40 feet), owned by the Kings family occupy one wharf. A guard watches over them. Each morning the wharf is hosed and boats spruced, gleaming white.
Two machine totting soldiers accompanied by a Policeman, continuously walk the promenade.
Rabat is on the opposite bank. Modern Rabat is the capital of Morocco and official residence of the King.
Fertile inland plains and the Bouregreg River attracted settlers around 8th century BC. Sala at the up river site of the Chellah, was originally a Phoenician and Roman settlement and later a Berber kingdom.
The latter built the "Ribat" - fortress monastery - where today stands the Kasbah les Oudaias dominating the river entrance.
The Chellah declined as Sale prospered in the 10th century.
In the 12th century, Sale declined as Ribat prospered with changing dynasties, trade and as staging post for battles in Andalucia (Spain).
Intended to be the world's largest mosque; Hassan Mosque's creator's (El Monsour - "The Victorious") death (1199) left it unfinished.
His death also initiated Ribat's decline until the 17th century. Moslem refugees (from Spain) as well as Moorish pirates or corsairs - the Sallee Rovers, notoriously, rejuvenated the city.
Roving to America, England, Europe it was not till the 19th century that Portugual, Spain and France curtailed their activities.
When France moved (from Fez and Marrakech) its administrative capital to Rabat in 1912, the city was revived to its present status.
The "nouveau" centre with its colonial architecture, wide palm lined boulevards, white and clean, are in marked contrast to Sale, where time stood still, retaining within its orange, walls, twisting streets noisy with colourful arab, hustle and bustle.
A week passed until daughter Annalise arrived from Paris (father-daughter "bonding") for time in Marrakech and an Atlas Mountains trek with Aztat Trekking.
"...hello is that Aztat Trekking..." (also called Mountain Travel Morocco).
"...Mohamed here, yes, I will arrange, Marrakech accommodation (Riad dar Khmissa), taxi to Imlil, a guide, a cook and mule, a two day trek, accommodation in Imlil (Riad dar Adrar) and a taxi to Marrakech..."
The four hour train (Rabat to Marrakech) invariably takes five - passing bone, dry, country side interspersed with rocky hills, villages, tented poverty and Cactus green (farmed for fine, cosmetic oil).
Arrival in Marrakech was in drenching rain, a year first.
"...don't worry, it will stop at 2100..."
Previously a family home, the Riad dar Khmissa's welcoming staff ensure it oozes pleasant, islamic, comfort within the walls of the Medina (old city).
Rain stopped. "...Toukbal restaurant provides good (safe) food..." at the Djemma El-Fna - main Medina square.
UNESCO declared the Square a "Masterpiece of World Heritage" (2001). Its crowds continually entertained by snake (cobras) charmers (?), monkeys, musicians, dancers and story tellers. In evenings some 100 chefs set up towed grills.
The back street Riad, provides much needed peace and quiet.
"...I am your guide, Ibrahim, your taxi is ready..." to Imlil, mountain village, in the High Atlas, under Jebel Toubkal (4167m - Morocco's highest) where the trek starts.
A sweet, herbal tea, packs on the mule and away. It is a fine, cool, blue, clear day.
On the pass, Mustafa, prepares lunch, while Skipper and crew relish the endless view - snow capped peaks, colourful red, brown valleys and villages.
Guide assures that the Barbary Lion, the largest North African lion specie, famed for their thick black manes, was no longer roaming the Atlas forests due to hunting and habitat loss; except in the King's Rabat zoo. Lonely Planet reports a genetic science program is attempting to recreate the specie for release in the protected area of the Atlas.
"...if they do that I will not be here..." Guide.
To the village "Gite" (basic, clean, pleasant resthouse with hot showers) where Mustafa again works his culinary magic.
Ascend over another pass and into Imlil to Riad dar Adrar, hot shower, superb food and the company of many European travellers.
"...this one (carpet) is from the desert (yellow, red, blue motif)...what is your price...?"
see above
It joins Nepalese and Turkish cushions and settee covers, in Sahula's colourful saloon. A silver metal "hand" ensures the safety (with the American indian feathered rondel and Turkish "eye") of Sahula and crew.
After the peace of mountains and villages, Marrakech is hectic. Again between Sultans palaces, mausoleums (with beautiful mosiacs), a a lively souk, Sahula is a welcome respite.
Skipper sketches the mosiacs and boats of Rabat against the Kasbah background.
see above
Crew extends her time to crew along the coast to Agadir.
"...the harbour is closed...3.5 m swells are breaking at the harbour mouth..."
For five days, Sahula was "trapped" (with 8 fellow cruising yachts). Surfer boarders relished the perfectly curling crests.
2-3.5 m swells swept in from Atlantic depressions far distant from Morocco's exposure.
Crew must depart, Skipper will continue solo.
"...that's a good idea..." all crews enjoy the comaraderie of a "wharf" party.
"...you can leave, wait on your boat, the officials will come..." - harbour master.
"... you must bring your boat to the customs wharf...for the dog..." Customs.
Despite remaining in Morocco water and visiting other harbours, all yachts must undergo full immigration and customs officialdom on arrival and departure, in each Moroccan port.
Hours later, the fleet heads to sea, with some apprehension as entrance swells, steeply lift, bows.
Sahula is free. Sails up before a light NW'ly on a relatively calm sea to El Jadida, a night sail, distant. In the evening, Mollie (spinnaker) provides ideal sailing into a pitch black night.
Risk of fishing nets ensures Skipper has no rest.
El Jadida is a welcome harbour. In the morning dark, the boom of surf ponding ashore, ensures Sahula awaits dawn.
Swiss yacht accompanies Sahula to port.
"...you will have to anchor in port...the wharf is too shallow..."
"...you will pay 246 dirhams ( 10 - 15m - 35 AUD per day, more expensive than Spanish coast ports)..." to anchor with no facilities.
"... it is the same in all ports...marinas are private...(and less cost with facilities).
"...this is a fishing port...they (harbour) don't like yachts..."
"...sign here..." (Captain); "...you must go to immigration at 1430..."; "... after you must come with me to pay..." (and more forms).
Hundreds of small, red, green, white and black, wooden boats, fish local waters and on their return, sell a wide variety of fish, to a hectic, smelly, noisy, harbourside, fish market.
El Jadida, is also known as Cite Portugaise. In 1506, the Portuguese built a harbour fortress to protect their ships from pirates.
It was destroyed by various Sultans and rebuilt in the 19th century. The name El Jadida is "new one" in Arabic.
A heritage photograph of a government Minister's entourage, disembarking in the port, includes his harem - some twenty, white covered ladies.
The town prospered with busy trading of the large Jewish community. There was no Jewish quarter (mellah), they lived with the locals in easy tolerance. Eventually, the ports administrative role was lost to Safi and Casablanca, remaining a busy, small boat, fishing port.
The towns long beaches ensured a tourism driven revival.
Local architecture, the Fort and the Citerne Portugaise evidence the European cultural past.
Winds are SW; "on the nose" for Sahula. Skipper opts to wait for light winds or a NW'ly. Daily conditions are checked, Wednesday, Thursday...
The passport "stamper" official requires two hours notice. It is a 12 hour (60nm) sail to Safi, the next fishing port.
The next marina is in Agadir, some 4-5 days passage with stops possible in Safi and Essouria. Solo, Skipper prefers only one night at sea.
Sahula sails on a clear, blue day, before a moderate NW'ly bypasses Safi to continue to Essouria.
Essouria can only be entered safely in daylight.
Essouria denied: a strong SW'ly change whips a steep, short sea atop the 2-3 metre swells. Sahula, driven by Tanya, pounds, water floods over the deck. Progress slows, then stops. Sahula turns to run back to Safi. Directly astern, the course requires running along the coast and then when offshore turning to run into Safi port.
11 other yachts are in Safi. All awaiting a NW'ly to transit to the Canary Islands.
"...Port Captain says there never has been so many..."
Some were with Sahula in Rabat.
Safi is a major phosphate and mineral export and fishing, port with no harbour facilities for yachts. Massed fishing boats crowd the port end.
Yachts are squeezed in, racked alongside, extending some 6 boats into the harbour. Two yachts are under 30 feet, two families (two small children) crew another two. A cruising community, brought together by a similar destination and adverse weather.
Safi is a friendly place. Officials ask if everyone is ok and entry bureaucracy is speedy.
"...you are going to Carefours (supermarket), I will take you..." aboard a Docker (Chinese) motor scooter. Driver skims through crowded streets.
Past the old Portuguese fort and old city walls, gleefully waving to all, the driver arrives at Carefours.
Safi is old Portuguese fortified harbour now an industrial and fishing port town. Local life is untrammelled by tourism. The new city exudes prosperity - wide, palm tree lined boulevards between white washed villas and commerical building.
Restock in rucksack, the Docker wends its way through the impossibly narrow, crowded, colourful, busy streets of the ancient walled, medina, back to the harbour.
A NW'ly is forecast on the grib files weather reports.
"...we think you should not leave, weather is not good..." Port Captain.
"...a NW'ly is here in the morning, we leave at 0600 -0700..."
"...we take no responsibility... you agree...." Port Captain.
Skipper takes on fuel, brought in large containers and transferred to Sahula's - 10 dirhams a litre (approx $1.00) with backsheesh (100 dirhams)
Skipper rigs the Para Anchor (chain bridle forward shackled to 15 mm rope tied by electrical ties to gunwale and into the cockpit where it can be attached the Anchor and dispatched over the side breaking the ties while it streams from the bouy" as a caution against forecast, storms nearer the Canaries.
Sahula is ready. Valerie (wind vane self steering - Hydrovane) steers with sails only - over 15 knots with two reefs in mainsail and furled headsails; Tom (Raymarine Tillerpilot 2000) steers Valerie's using her small tiller when motor or motorsailing. AIS and Radar alarms give notice of shipping (only large ships, many fishing boats do not have AIS); cockpit covers and plastic sides ensure Skipper or crew are dry and out of wind.
The fleet is abuzz, Sahula leads out of the port to be met by a moderate SW'ly - the NW'ly has not arrived - delayed, it is due later in the afternoon. The fleet continues to sea.
The SW'y builds to 26 knots. Sahula, mainsail reefed, headsail furled, plunges into a rising sea. Rain squalls sweep in.
It is due to change to NW after 1500 hours. The fleet scatters as smaller boats lag, larger cut through. It is a slow, rough, uncomfortable, challenging, day.
"Jonathan," classic, timber, Dutch, fifty footer, tramps by, heavy, deep - in her element.
One yacht (with two children) suffered a torn mainsail and headed to Agadir.
Caution and survival are the order of the day.
Progress is slow. Skipper, solo, opts to passage to Agadir, Morocco, a night sail down the coast rather than cross over two nights to Lanzarotte in the Canaries. The delay from Safi, runs the risk of storms nearer the Canaries, due in, in two days. Sahula will cross the the Canaries from Agadir with another NW'ly change. It is a one night, two day, passage.
In the late afternoon, the NW'ly change finally arrives. Weather improves. Sahula, in the night dark, under full main, Tanya, ensuring a direct course, moves slowly south.
Skipper takes 20 minute rests, relying on alarms on radar and AIS to alert of shipping.
Morning dawns golden, off Cabo Smir, beyond the High Altas walls the coast. 12 nm to Agadir.
"....Sahula this is Jonathan..."
"...Agadir Marina is advising yachts to leave as 5.5m swell is expected...the marina will be unsafe..."
Sahula turns for Lanzarotte, Canary Islands; some 119nm. A second night at sea.
Sahula is tramping at 7 knots before a brisk NWly. A close reach coursed across the seas.
"...Ophir Tenerife (passing large cargo vessel)...this is yacht Sahula... could I have a weather report..."
"...Yes, I have just received it: W/NW 4-7 for 24 hours..."
Sahula cuts into a rising Westerly; black rain squalls bring 26 knot gusts and driving rain.
Long, lowering, swells, mournful in the beauty, roll into seeming infinity. Frigate birds glide majesticly, effortlessly, gracefully, challenging the breaking waves tumbling into the valleys.
Dolphins, sleek, sea torpedos, play in the bow wake. Skipper watches from the bow pulpit; they turn as if to wink "...we are with you...sea creature..."
Sahula leans to a 30 knot squall, pounds the sea, lifts, shaking, continuing confidently into the inky blackness seeking the land light, loom of Lanzarotte island.
Day breaks, dark clouds, leavened pink over a silver grey sea, change to white, yellow and blue.
Blue land ahead with 30 km to go.
Skipper prepares for the harbour approach. Amongst the sparkling white shore lights, a lead green. In sync with the Digital chart GPS, Sahula rounds into the harbour. All is calm.
It is 0200. Two marina staff welcome Sahula.
"...is there only you?..."
Brand new (Oct) Lanzarotte Marina, safe behind huge walls, provides for a long sleep.
"...you go to the Police (immigration)...at the passenger terminal...they don't come to the boat...do this tomorrow..."
Police check the computer and stamp the passport (only again checked on exit from Spain. It is in sharp contrast to Morocco's bureaucracy.
Skipper dines in Asiatico Restaurant staffed by Chinese Spanish students.
"...my family came to Barcelona long time ago then here...I have done a Business Degree...I am returning to China...there is more money and opportunity there..."
Skipper can recall in the 1970's when aboard British cargo ships, Chinese crews worked for pittance wages they'd send back home to support their poor families. Times change.
Advice on cruising the Moroccan coast to the Canaries:
1. Avoid being on the coast in November. Arrive in the Canaries in mid to late October.
2. Weather breaks into strong NW/ SWlies. Changing with small depressions moving from the Atlantic.
3. Atlantic swells over 2m may close Moroccan ports. 3m swells will do so at Rabat. All ports are impacted by the swells.
4. Avoid Rabat in November as swells send large surf into the harbour. Short periods when 2 m or less will open the harbour but long delays can be expected. Marina provides a pilot boat to escort yachts in and out of harbour.
Yachts could go to Mohamedmedia, a few hours south where their is a marina and regular trains to Rabat, Casablanca and Marrakech.
5. Rabat marina is excellent, staff are friendly. It is excellent for leaving the boat and travelling. It is not overly expensive. King has his family motor yacht fleet at the marina so security is tight but not intrusive.
6. Rabat city is well worth a visit with many attractions. Its twin, Sale is more traditional. Both cities are secure. People are welcoming and pleasant.
7. Jadida is a fishing port which has no facilities for yachts. If a low "low" tide anchoring is necessary. One yacht dragged at night. Port staff would prefer yachts don't visit. The Portuguese fort and cistern are interesting but generally it is run down. The Yacht club did not offer any facilities or any welcome. Port Restaurant on top of club, is excellent.
8. Safi a fishing port has no facilities for yachts. Only extreme swells would affect the entry. There is no anchorage. Yachts are racked alongside set harbour boats. Safi is an interesting town, well worth a visit. Port staff are very pleasant and welcoming.
9. Essouria is a fishing port. No facilities for yachts. Entry is reputed to be dangerous when large swells go between the island and port entrance. Entry at night would be difficult. It is more than a day sail given booking out of Safi takes critical time.
10. Agadir has a marina. It is dangerous in large swells. Yachts were there but moved to a fishing harbour which was also damaged by the swells. If necessary avoid it and go to Lanzarotte.
11. All ports require entry and exit processes which while said to be 24 hours requires negotiation to ensure early departure.
12. All ports ie not with private marinas, charge 246 dirhams per night, for a 12 m boat, regardless that there are no facilities at all. Its a government set fee for harbour use.
13. Despite harbour challenges, Morocco is a wonderful place and the people are very hospitable, helpful and welcoming.
Next Report: Passage Report 109: Canaries, Cape Verdes to Caribbean.
Best
David
sv Sahula
November, 2014.
Lanzarotte, Canaries, Spain.
