passage report 37 Sigacik to England

Sahula Passage Report No. 37

Sigacik to English Winter

December, 2009

An art opening invitation from Turk friends, Alev, Shi, Sema and Serhat, had Skipper in Izmir. Artist Ekrem Kadak is from Cappadocia in central Turkey. His works captured the spiritual beauty of his region. After, artists, friends and Skipper gathered at a restaurant. Ekrem related his experience with the spirits of his land, while he and his compatriots reveled to songs and tales amidst many Raki (national Turk drink) toasts.

Traders camel caravans (sometimes with 1000 camels!!) wended their way across the dry lands enroute from India, Arabia and the Russian steppes to end their journey in Izmir's (and other large cities) caravanserai. There they rested and traded, in a large building that housed them, camels and their goods before again returning along the ancient routes. It is a large two storey, stone building encompassing a large central square. Today, it is the centre of jewelers and shop owners, trading with locals and tourists. Here Skipper "traded" for Xmas gifts bound for English relatives growing families.

Born "lithe and elegant" is no defense against winter chills. Cold, a cruisers bohemian lifestyle, impending travel and shore side fashion had Skipper updating his wardrobe. Low prices added to the incentive.

Oddly, Skipper could find no English Turk newspaper in Izmir. The "International Herald Tribune," (printed in Paris) is devoid of Turk news. Skipper is concerned at worsening civil unrest between pro and anti Kurd citizens. Skipper observed peaceful protests in Izmir.

The Izmir State Art and Sculpture Museum proved disappointing. Skipper was interested in the evolution of Turkish art..

Ozkan drives Skipper, on an odyssey of his youth, to the beauty of the nearby mountains and coastal towns.

Dogan, Turk friend, joins Skipper for an afternoon in Izmir and much chai.

Five days in Izmir and Skipper returns to Sahula. New LED lights, new taps, paint and many other items make it a fruitful trip.

The marina dredging required Sahula be relocated. As well the darkening horizon threatened a southerly storm that soon broke with a 30 knot gale. Sahula lay to the wind, mooring lines strained and fenders were tested. During the night, the gale changed with increased force to the south. Skipper awoke to find adrift, metal pontoons. These were averted to pass by. A foretaste of a deepening winter.

There is no logic in recurring storms. They come, they go. None last long. It can be a fine sunny day, when "crack" - thunder, lightening and gale (north or south) driven rain.

Seferihisar dentist Koray proves excellent and not expensive. Savas drove Skipper and assisted in finding boat items.

A fitting farewell: all day gales; Sahula lays to the concrete wharf. 0600 in morning calm, Skipper, rucksack bent, met Firat's (management) car to Izmir airport.

Pegasus Airlines flew along the Danube. Skipper commented on the gray barren eastern European landscape. "It is snow" - from the Black Sea to England - much to Skipper's surprise. Sister, Anne's cosy, thatch, English cottage warmed the minus 5 degrees.

Skipper was in England to be long absent brother to Anne, "uncle" to numerous family and to meet relations, over Xmas and New Year.

The adventurous English instinct is, for many, represented in Skipper "living the dream" lifestyle. Skipper met many aspirants straining against the bounds of comfortable lifestyles. The anchor of countryside, home, history, peace and stability no doubt succoured many sailors who expanded the Empire in distant, different, wilder lands.

Keel in the mud "Bristol Channel" fashion was helpfully mentioned as a possible inexpensive location for wintering in England!!!?

Sherbet, the dog, kept Skipper fit on his mistress, Anne's morning "rain, hail or snow" walk. Rain and snow won out. A white Xmas covered the Wiltshire (near Marlborough) hills and dales in all its cold natural beauty.

Xmas and Boxing Day family dinners ensured Skipper lost no "elegance." Children excited by a present pile, reminded of the joys past.

Patrick, in family (Deuchar) Scots kilt and family (in his and Liz's beautiful renovated riverside, thatch cottage) welcomed in, over a grand meal, 2010.

Skipper resolved to continue "living the dream."

Skipper reveled in London's Tate, National, Saatchi and Courtald art galleries. The Travelers Joy Hostel (Chelsea on Thames) provided inexpensive accommodation. A musical and a play gave added icing (?).

Transport and snow do not mix. "Spreader" trucks (salt grit) kept the arteries open to Marlborough. Skipper walked the night snow covered trail to "home" recalling the mountaineering years.

The marketing of the cruising life is no better displayed than at the London Boat Show. Technology is geared to comfortable adventure which it can never be. Safety at sea is more technology when it is only support. Skipper resolves to proceed "slowly." Is an AIS monitor (detecting shipping) when Sahula's radar and a good lookout seem sufficient? Is a Navtex weather report receiver required when Sahula's HF and VHF radio's, Winlink "Grib" files, and weather fax, seem sufficient?

Skipper joined the Cruising Association (based Limehouse, London). It provides information and assistance to the global cruising fraternity. www.cruising.org.uk

Three weeks in home, family and material comforts, tests or refreshes the adventurers resolve. Skipper joined Pegasus (airlines) to exit snow bound Europe for warmer Sigacik. Time out, with family and friends has deepened rather than depleted the "dream." Skipper will return through the French canals in 2011.

Turkey newspapers headlines: a failed coup, politicized army and courts, secular - v - Islamic state, anti-Kurd riots, foreign policy: Armenia, Georgia, Russia, Iran, Iraq, Lebanon, Syria, Greece, Cyprus. UK newspapers: MP's dip into public till, election campaigns, snow.

Skipper relishes time spent with sister, Anne, family and friends. Sahula and Turkish friends and hospitality again embrace. In a few weeks Skipper will be in Australia. In April, sailing the Mediterranean.

Rain, sun and a gale lays Sahula to the wharf.

Next Report 38.

David

Passage Report 38

Sahula Passage Report No. 38

Sigacik Winter No.4

There mother said they may come. A text enlightened: "Tuesday arvo." "Arvo" dawned wet and windy. Four o'clock evening fading light - a text (parent like) "ETA?" - a knock - two girls! Elizabeth and Meredith, cold, wet and cheery, stepped aboard to be the first Australian family or friends to visit during Sahula's odyssey. Skipper was delighted (and relieved).

Heater on, a shower (hot), a home cooked meal (their first since...), Australian wine and much travel, Australian and worldly chatter. A sunny dawn, breakfast, Universite Café: chai and baklava, Sigacik fish restaurant lunch and Seferihisar bus. A comment that accompanied by a male gave less hassle but the same Turk male interest and chai (5 cups by midday). A text:" on the bus..." to Cappadoccia from two remarkable, young, Australian women. There is something unusual about an adventurous Australian youth that belies restraint, embraces freedom.

Russian Steppes breezes brush Sigacik. Skipper does a colour sketch of Suakin's fishing boats in Sudan - to bring mental warmth.

It's the smallest but most crucial winch part (a minute spring) and it flicked away, to remain unfound. Consternation - no spares. Three screws prove immoveable; Seferihisar's sunayi (light industrial area) artisan releases them by welding on a bolt. Consternation: no spares. More parts are added to the "buy Australian" list.

To find the artisan, communicate, who and where, a local Turk - English - Israeli speaking yachtsman (Gideon) guides Skipper. Another foreign cruising challenge (or frustration).

News of a cruising friend's fatal heart attack while in the Philippines. Cruising does not evoke eternal life.

Skipper turns the last page of Orhan Pamuk's (Nobel Prize in Literature, 2006) book, "Istanbul - Memories and the city." The book describes his early life struggle to remain creative (artist and writer) against family expectations, in a city on the East-West cultural and historical crossroads.

On the dot, November ushered in the southerly storms. Cool and wet, they claimed December. "It will be cold from January." Europe has snow. Goodbye southerlies, the chilling northerlies are here to stay. "March, it changes.". Weekly calms occupy a day between wind and rain. Skipper retreats, emerging on rare sun days.

Colourful fishing boats clatter from Sigacik port regardless of rain, wind, gale or cold.

Skipper does colour sketch of the boatyard in Suakin, Sudan - more warmth.

An elder sailor (85) brings Skipper fresh herbs, collected on the Sigacik hills. Dried for a week they make herbal "chai."

The headsail sheet tracks herald their last. Due to poor design rust has penetrated the deck. Skipper considers replacement. A large job requiring their redesign, fabrication and removal of interior deck head (ceiling) materials to allow welding. A post Australia job in, hoped for, warmth.

Three pencil sketches of Sigacik preparatory to acrylic canvases.

Warmth, sun and calm - the psyche energises - no job too hard. Deck painted, Turtle Tank (fresh water, flexible) removed and cleaned (using bleach) of the Aden bug turning water brown.

Quotable quotes (as best recalled):

"There are crazy people in this country. They don't think with their heads - why? Why do they not be friends - with Greeks. Turkey has borders with so many countries. Why not be friends? It causes problems for Turkey. Turkey doesn't need these problems..."

One day Turkey will be finished with the Kurdish problem. What do they want? Turkey will put a wall around them, erect high fences. They will have nothing but rocks. There is nothing over there..."

"America, it decides what is good for Turkey. The government does as America says. Oil is in Turkey but the Americans won't allow it..."

"Islam is not like that. Since a small boy I have read the Koran. It has nothing about being angry and killing people. It is peaceful. They make it bad. It is not bad..."

"Why are they so loud; It is unnecessary..." (Mosques call to Allah - 5 times a day.)

"If you stand outside a mosque, you will see. One, two; no body is there. Turkey will be secular..."

"Turkey is not like Arabia...They have to go..."

There are too many political parties in Turkey. Three is needed. The leaders are too old; Turkey needs new minds...young, 25 -40"

"He needs a woman - to cook for him..."

Istanbul is snowed out. Izmir and Sigacik are sunny but with a bitter chill. The forecast is more.

Skipper is invited to a Turk friend's home for two days. The "home" (3 bedrooms) is eight floors up in an apartment block. The blocks are surrounded by "poor people suburbs." The poor live as squatters, in hillside, low standard freestanding homes with harbour views and chickens and vegetables in small gardens. The blocks are clumped together in an endless vista of sameness suburbia. Skipper's friend is home with his 18 year old son. The son is a typical well mannered, friendly, young, Turk. He has tattoos much to his Father's consternation. Skipper wonders what rebellion would life have served caged in a similar "home." A "home" ensures mortgage poverty. They cost between 300,000 and 800,000 TL (with title security). Turks are not well paid; a middle salary would be some 30 -50,000 TL (approx 25- 45000 AUD).

Skipper and friend visit a number of very large department stores. They are citadels to western sameness - secular, materialist, capitalist. The crowds are young, modern, middle income.

Washing done, a hot bath and good food and hospitality make for a welcome respite from boat life.

It's lunch time: "I will pay - I would like to thank you." "No, no, no" cries the restaurant owner. Skipper's host pays again even though not working and providing at some expense his hospitality. It is explained that "quid pro quo" is not expected in Turkey. In fact, to expect to do so is disrespectful.

Skipper returns to paint in colourful acrylic, a large canvas of Sigacik for presentation to the Teos Marina management. Also a coloured pencil sketch of the Sigacik mandarin groves.

Ozkan's Izmir "home" is a Bostanli apartment. A bachelor "pad" in a wealthy swath of apartment blocks. It's all white (including the carpets), a large TV, no pictures, windows shuttered - a place to pass through. The central city is a ferry ride away. The "simet" (small circle of bread) seller heralds morning and fills lowered baskets.

Skipper wanders Konak, the old inner city market of twisting, colourful, crowded alleyways, to purchase boat things and gifts for Australian family and friends.

Skipper seeks hardware items. A shop will be small, in a street of the same; all a shambles of stock, flowing from high inner shelves, musty boxes, onto the awning covered, foot path. Stock taking is the owner's mindful magic. Night security is the neighbours camaraderie, with a cover drawn over street stock.

Skipper wanders the Konak hillside; the "poor peoples area." It is a maze of old, small, terrace houses alongside narrow, twisting, silent, streets (some with bay views). There are few trees. Women are in peasant dress. Happy children run alongside, practicing English - "What is your name?" It is a world away from bayside Bostanli. There, the parked cars, palms and street trees stand silent sentinels to westernized, wealthier, lives. An occupant: "It is dangerous up there."

Skype caller informs Skipper of "fleet" gossip. Partners who separated are now engaged; Umberto (Spaniard) is refinancing with boat deliveries; another's drinking is a major issue; Invictus, Hinewai, Harmony IV are on the hardstand in Alanya with owners home in the USA, Australia and Japan; Musketelle is in Marmaris; Kristiane in Finike.

Finding information to input to future cruising and wintering places is a major issue. The Cruising Association (UK), www.noonsite.org, provide the major inputs. Email replies from marinas are rare. Skipper has no replies from Tunisian marinas.

Time to go - to Australia. Gales yesterday and today calm, sunny and cool; a reminder to return. Skipper leaves instructions to have the aft cabin mattress recovered and the saloon settee foam replaced.

Steel work done through the chandlery in Sigacik has been poorly done. Yacht work should only be done where there are yachts. Lesson learned.

Farewell Sahula. The marina manager assures Skipper the lines will be regularly checked.

Next Report Time in the Great South Land

David

Sv Sahula.