Passage Report No 36 Sigacik No.2

Sahula Passage Report No. 36

Sigacik No. 2.

Skipper is in R&R from the Lycian Walk. Good food, good company soon builds the mind and body to consider the winter work. There is much to be done.

A full interior hull rust check, lighten up (used in 12 months or out), re-do interior paint and varnish, new taps galley and loo, a shower (?), heater etc. The list goes on.

The winter storms boom overhead. In between Skipper does a rust check and "lighten up" in the lazarette. Inspired by Ozkan's work team (two) on Kayitsiz III doing an interior paint and varnish over a sunny weekend, Skippers opts to prioritise Sahula's.

Ozkan in Izmir brings the necessary resources. Skipper has no "team" but the sun shines, a weekend is allotted and work begins. The old rule (multiply by three) soon applies; a week then two... For the whole time the mess becomes chaos. Soon Sahula's living space contracts to a loo and aft cabin.

Cruising requires adjustment to local conditions. Varnish and acrylic, water based paint in matt or satin, is rare (unless black or white). Local shops supply only oil based, one coat, gloss paint. They come in a limited colour range. Varnish is very effectively removed by paint remover and a stainless steel plate.

Ataturk passed away (aged 57) at 0905 on 10th November, 1938. At this time, those many Turks who idolize him and his achievements stand to attention sounding horns for minute. Skipper was photographer for Ozkan and his friends who beside Kayitsiz, flying a Turk flag bearing Ataturk's image, stood rigidly to attention. It is a reminder to Government to respect his achievements and principles. Large rallies perhaps sent the message that secularism is perceived as under threat by an allegedly Islamic leaning government.

Skipper completes a book on the Ottoman Empire 1300 - 1600 which extended in a "crescent" from Persia to Crimea, Austria, Iraq and Egypt, Sudan, northern Africa to Morocco. It controlled the trading routes from Asia and India to Europe. It underlines Turkey's cultural and historical complexity. This was the golden Ottoman period. After, the Empire declined till deposed by Ataturk's Republic in the early 1900's. The Ottoman centuries colour much of Turkey today. The Sultans stood at the apex of a highly centralized bureaucracy (based upon slavery) and a war machine. The administrations strength was continually vacillating due to weak or strong sultans, Islamic political fervour, boundary sustaining and expanding wars and the difficulty of managing a culturally and socially diverse empire bounded by competing forces of other empires, Shahs and Khans. It is said its decline was mostly due to the eventual dominance of Islam and the resulting closure to ideas and innovation.

Skipper will read about the next era: 1600 - 1900 which ends with the Republic.

Conversation reveals yet another political conspiracy theory: the USA has a grand long term plan to ensure a weakened Turkey apparently to ensure access to oil and minerals in eastern Turkey. Eastern Turkey is largely a Kurd area. What interests Skipper is not the existence of the conspiracy theories but the intense belief in them by educated Turks. It seems paranoia politics is part of a complex political life in Turkey.

Skipper is driven by Ozkan to visit his family's summer house on Izmir Bay. Ozkan laments the lost jewels of his boyhood when the surrounding marine and forest environment was pristine unspoilt by today's rampant suburban development. The destruction is worse due to the lack of modern planning and environmental regulations. These are due in the near future but in the meantime ugly architecture marks the coastline.

Skipper meets John, owner of an LED light shop in Izmir. He is fitting lights to Ozkan's boat. Skipper decides to "go" LED. LED lights use very little power, saving the batteries.

The stove is showing signs of rust and wear. Ozkan installs a new stainless steel two burner and oven stove hand built in the by Izmir "artisans" in a small workshop in the old market. It is an excellent example of their craft. However, it does not have the safety features of marine stoves. Skipper opts for security and "mends" the "old" stove...

Mustafa of Istanbul calls by to meet Skipper. He and partner Nour (Turkish traditional music singer) enjoy dinner and talk of his yachts in Brazil and Bodrum and plans to circumnavigate.

Mustafa of Marmaris calls by to meet Skipper. He is a retired engineer living on his Van de Stadt in Marmaris. He admires Sahula.

Sahula is worth admiring or at least the newly varnished and painted saloon, galley and navigation area. The varnish returns the timber to its original golden aurora. The bulkheads are painted a light cream yellow.

A small electric blower heater is aboard powered by free electrical power from Sahula's hosts.

So many "wants," so little finance - how to decide? Skippers "method" is to mull over it, feed on it, no rush, again and again till the neurons at peace, decide. Does Sahula need a diesel heater? They're expensive and require cruising in cold climates when "where to" is much at whim. Patagonia, Norway, England - they all seem so distant. Find a principle - what is the cruise for: a circumnavigation or an enjoyable sail on global waters? Skipper started on the former but has changed to the latter. Let the future look after itself.

The French canals, northern Europe, Scandinavia are nearby. They win the whim. Skipper dreams of sailing his ship into the Solent and a past life at the Southampton School of Navigation on the Hamble River.

Winters above 40 degrees north need little deliberation. Skipper decides to install a Sigmar 100 bulkhead mounted, diesel heater. The problem now is to buy one. There are none in Turkey. However, Turkish customs could substantially increase the price. West Marine (USA) offers the lowest price and agrees to send it to their Istanbul shop.

In the peace of the night (without TV or radio), the mind turns to "where to." Scandinavian cruisers (met on the Rallys) email back information. Jim Connells, "World Cruising Routes" has a detailed section. The mind waxes, plans are circulated, excitement grows. It is one of the cruising life delights to contemplate and evolve, a voyage. The endless fjords and Northern Lights conjure paintings. David Lewis, an icon of extreme voyages in cold climates, is read for his transits of the North Atlantic.

Skipper continues the interior rust check, moving through each compartment. Each area is cleaned and any rust treated. Sahula has no longitudinal "stringers" (frames are every 18 inches) so topside interior rust will show as runs at the base.

When Skipper bought Sahula, she had a tiled floor in the loo with no access to the hull. After treating rust, Skipper replaced it with a removable fiberglass floor. After four years it is now removed, rust spots treated and the loo repainted to "egg" blue. Skipper has an aversion to white. It is only on the deck head (ceiling).

Skipper is doing a "toss out if not useful" on all gear, food and papers. Some institute a "not used in 12 months" rule but there are exceptions. Often that "never used" thing saves the day. "Necessities" accumulate on a long voyage.

Skipper Turkish language "lessons" (30 lessons in Turkish book) are slow to return results. Turks talk quickly and rarely reply in the set piece answers given in the lessons. The limited "lesson" vocabulary is swamped by the huge actual vocabulary. However, the Turks delight when an Australian talks their language is palpable.

Set amongst the vineyards, near the hill top, farming village of Yagcilar, is Sema and Serhat's timber home and office. It is a fine, sunny, autumn day.

Sema is the "mermaid" who swam out to Ozkan's boat when anchored there prior to Sigacik. Serhat, an architect, designs houses, using local materials of timber and stone. Onur is Serhat's English fluent student. They make their own organic red wine and live an environmentally sound life. Serhat's model Spanish galleon "floats," suspended, in his village, stone, "second" home and Sema's art studio.

Skipper had two days to revel in their hospitality and surroundings.

Sahita (Shi) and Alev, lady friends of Sema's, are artists. They offer to guide Skipper around Izmir's art community and galleries.

Skipper met the locals, walked the forest trails and completed a colour pencil sketch of the autumn tinted vineyards.

The imminent expiry of Skipper's second visa three months required another trip to Greece. The "trip" became a trap for winter players.

The early morning Tuesday taxi, Sigacik to the Cesme ferry terminal was expensive. Lonely Planet stated: 0900 departure, Tuesday and Saturday. Signs outside a Cesme ticket office declared,"Daily ferry to Chios." Skipper purchased a ticket (65 TL in Turkey, maybe 65 Euro in Chios). Chai passed the time. Skipper was soon aware of its whimsical abundance.

"No ferry today, tomorrow!" There are no ferries on Tuesday or Thursday.

Skipper became Cesme's sole winter tourist of the Genoese castle and museum. In 1770, waters off Cesme were the site of a major naval battle. The British and Russians destroyed the Turk fleet thus opening Russian access to the Mediterranean via the Dardanelles (later the Sultan built forts at the Dardanelles entrance again blocking Russian access).

The Lazy Bee pension provided hospitable accommodation (25 TL B&B). At 1730, next day, Skipper stood on the Ferry bridge recalling memories of an early life at sea. The Turk agent and ticket confirmed the ferry returned, next morning at 0830.

Winter darkness enveloped Chios. Skipper did not expect to see much of it. "Rooms for Let" were 25 Euro (some 50 TL without breakfast). Chios was a bustle of traffic past empty waterfront bars and cafes. The ancient walled city occupies the northern side. A mosque testifies to its Turkish past. The bells ring at sunset.

Up early and to the terminal: "No ferry today, tomorrow!"

Skipper became Chios's sole winter tourist. The sun shined on a cool, clear day. Good things come from the unexpected.

Hospitable "Chians" advised a public bus trip to Mesta and Pyrgi, both medieval farming villages. Mesta is one of the "rare (totally preserved) castle villages in the world." The houses form a city wall enclosing ancient houses along a maze of narrow, stone laid, alleyways and arcades sometimes enclosed by archways. Pyrgi, another medieval village (with 50 churches) is a maze of alleyways between houses decorated by complex geometric designs etched in black and white (called "xysta" or "scraped").

Skipper notes there is no division in women's fashion in Chios. The Islamic veil and conservative dress, are not part of Greek culture.

Next morning at 0830 (another night at the "Rooms"), Skipper again stood on the ferry bridge. Cesme Immigration stamped a three month visa.

"I am coming to visit you in two hours." Skipper was departing a Cesme - Izmir bus and missed the name. It was Dogan and his wife and daughter. He is a retired naval captain. Skipper met him at a Piri Reis (marina NGO) occasion. Turk hospitality knows no end. It is Bayram - an Islamic public holiday (4 days). Skipper was given a gift of baklava and treated to chai and lunch. A lovely welcome back to Turkey.

Bayram is celebrated by families dining together. Traditionally, a goat or sheep (sheep is preferred) was slaughtered for the occasion. It celebrates the prophet, Abraham killing a sheep instead of his son. Skipper passed a well attended, animal market. Officially, the slaughter is to be done by a butcher but the edict is ignored: passing through a village, many sheep, newly killed, were being dressed for meals. An escalation in beast price (500 - 1000 TL) has restrained this years slaughter.

Skipper completed painting the loo in "egg blue" oil paint. The paints odour below was a problem.

Yilmuz (Belma, his wife) a Turk friend (first met in Townville aboard Ozkan's boat), invited Skipper to his summer house in the hills, near Urla. They have an Izmir home as well. Yilmuz is a "2/3 retired" businessman. Superb Turk food and hospitality including chai at the nearby ancient fishing village (where they harbour their 10 m. yacht). Returning on the crowded "otobus" (bus) to Seferihisar and Sigacik, a young man gave Skipper his seat. Skipper is again reminded of the good manners of Turks as well as his age!!

The "summer house" phenomenon is, generally, evidence of wealth. The "winter" house is usually an apartment in the nearby city. The "summer" house is usually a country or coastal, free standing, large, house. It is most likely, one of a similar design, in a gated (with guard) estate. The estates blight the countryside. The "summer" houses may be occupied for only a few months a year. They (and large European cars - usually black), are, for many, status symbols in a capitalist economy.

Winter rains return after weeks of cool, sunny days. Skipper works inside Sahula.

Skipper reads "A Peace to end all Peace - The fall of the Ottoman Empire and the Creation of the Modern Middle East," David Fromkin, 1989. It highlights a number of points: the "Great Powers" post WW I designs on the precarious post Ottoman, Turkey "State;" Ataturk's providential rise; the Middle East's lack of religious, cultural and political cohesion in the pre-WWI era that allowed arrogant European (devoid of universal human rights principles) carving of the modern States; an insight into the inherent problems in current Turk and Middle East politics.

Skipper sensed something wasn't right. The electrical plug from shore power seemed to spark, maybe it was a loose plug. Then the heater died with a burnt plastic odour. Skipper called the electrician but he came the next day. In the meantime a red light beamed out of the plug. A plug fizzed black and Skipper's finger burned pink. Then the grinder died. The electrician came; shore power was plugged into Red; not Blue. Red was for 380 volts industrial use. The Angels sang...

Lief and Eva, Swede cruising friends, so liked the colourful acrylic that Skipper gave it to them. An email shows it framed in their home. Skipper glows warm to know that in Sweden, a painting of Australia has a good home.

The deck needs painting. Skipper asks Sigacik chandlery for four litres. "Not standard colour (red, blue, white, black), no four litres, only 200 litres" !! Small lots are from the car repairers in the local "sunayi" or light industrial area.

Day dawns calm and sunny. Annalise phones for a long chat. The world is a small and smaller place. Skipper often wonders at the family cost of cruising. The "ether" ameliorates but cannot replace the face to face.

Next Report No. 37 - "Sigacik No. 3"

Best

David

Passage Report No. 35 Lycian Walk

Sahula Passage Report No. 35

Lycian Way - October 2009

Reading: The Lycian Way - Kate Clow 3rd Ed, April 2009

Book is essential. Includes map.

Pre-walk track and accommodation update is available on the website.

www.trekkinginturkey.com

www.lycianway.com

Photos are on Facebook.

"Clow and her faithful billhook have spent years clearing the scrub from ancient Roman roads and mule trails of pilgrims and miners, invaders and shepherds. ...she has stitched them into a 300 mile trail between Fethiye and Antalya which switches alluringly between high pastures and shore side villages, historical ruins and mountain summits." Seal, Sunday Times, 2002.

"...this...is an area with a rich and crowded past...the whole Aegean and Mediterranean coast of Asia Minor...was colonized by the Greeks from early in the millennium BC and subject to a distinctly Hellenistic influence...Lycia, in particular, enjoyed a period of ascendancy and a unique culture between the 6th and 4th centuries BC, before falling into the hands of Alexander the Great's successors and then the Romans. Later, Arabs, Crusaders, Genoese, and Armenians established themselves along its length. Traces of all these hands are visible still, and nowhere more so than along this path, their romance and charm enhanced by the fact so many of the sites are unfenced and unticketed, the old stones just lying there naturally among the scrub and goat pastures." Salmon, Sunday Times, 2000.

The easiest part of cruising is cruising. The hardest part is to leave "her" and head off inland. Harder still is to go trekking and camping. Yet the hardest part is the most rewarding. There is no equal to absorbing the country at walkers pace and meeting the villagers in their places. Perhaps, fortunately, few do it.

To do or not to do has often wrecked havoc in the adventurous mind. It was raining in Sigacik. Kristiane (Paddy and Caroline) advised it was fine in Fethiye.

It was go. Packed, repacked - lighten to survive. There would be no Karkar Mountain surprises. The only mule was Skipper. Gear included a bivvy bag, sleeping bag, mossie net, utensils, wet weather gear, clothes, etc, tuned to sleeping out or in. It was heavy but... Bus out to Fethiye - the adventure begins.

Tan Pansion's (25 TL B& B) balcony provided vistas of Fethiye's marina. A final repack sent a package to Sigacik.

Taxi (25 TL) avoided a long walk in suburban Ovacik. A large Rotary sign heralded the beginning and the soon to be familiar, red and white parallel marks.

A graded road cut the way for the first few kilometers, softened by spectacular coastal views over Olu Deniz.

A roman road or rough track, impossibly cut into the cliff, took over to wend its way up under the majesty of Baba Dagi (Father Mountain -2000m). Para gliders, butterfly like, swirled overhead from summit to sea. A 1953 avalanche stripped the whole east face adding to its grandeur.

The cistern (water well) and lookout (2 hours) would allow excellent camping if having a late afternoon start from Fethiye.

Meet Kirk, young Kiwi, walking the Way with a small pack and staying in local accommodation. Most walkers are English on a week holiday. Some in an organized day walk.

Turks give welcoming "iyi gonlar" (Good day) as a walker passes villages. The yaylas (fields) are a buzz with hives and "spacemen" beekeepers. Scenery of blue mountains and red gorges to the azure coast.

Georges House Pension (30 TL dinner, B&B) in Faralya provides a welcome hot bath and fine meal in company with an Australian, Brian, and a young German couple. Butterfly Bay is 500 feet below. Skipper completes a colourful sketch. Brian has pioneered a number of trails that a person staying in Faralya and particularly Georges House could do as day walks. There is written information available at Georges. The trails are marked.

Faralya is an excellent day walk. A bus is available to/from Fethiye/ Olu Deniz.

Getting lost, or off track, is part of trekking. The markers are not always obvious. Skipper is redirected by a "Faralyan." Later, road construction destroyed the markers. The map is too small scale to be accurate. Markers are frequent but they require vigilance. After a few days, the trail-makers intent becomes second nature. The free standing Lycian Way sign posts are at the end of each section. These are very useful to pick up the trail when it runs off roads or in villages.

A day of superb rocky mountains, gorges and bays. The bays are serene, seemingly untouched apart from the village. Yachts are seen passing by out at sea.

From Kabak to Alinca the trail has alternatives: via the mountains or the sea. Skipper opts for the mountains. It seems only defying gravity will provide a trail around the sheer cliffs. Yet the impossible yields and an ancient path (some 2 m wide) cuts its way upward. There are no other walkers today.

It is the second and seemingly, longest day (7 hours). It is 1800 on arrival in Alinca - a mountain village with a superb coastal vista. Skipper welcomes a boy's invitation to have tea with his parents and younger sister. It is the first house. Then onto Bayram's Place (the next house) with a bungalow, hot bath, dinner and breakfast (30TL). Skipper does a colour sketch.

Mircan (Bayram's wife) - and two children - milks the cow and prepares breakfast. On departure she provides a lunch of cheese, tomato and bread.

A family photograph and away to the ancient city of Sidyma. Skipper carries two litres of freshwater, a litre in a platypus "tube" and two half litre bottles. It is sufficient. Cisterns usually are undrinkable or occupied by swarms of bees.

Skipper sketched an Ottoman cistern with its arched doorway.

The track follows the coast before offering the option of heading inland to Sidyma rejoining at Bel. The inland route follows a valley to Bogazici before winding up to the yayla of Sidyma (incorporating the village of Dodurga). Bogazici is a timeless village built on goats, honey and olives (farm staples). Skipper is mobbed by school children who enjoy their photo. The village "blue" shop is opened for Skipper to buy soap. "Shop" is a very limited term. Skipper later sketches the "blue shop" at the end of a valley lane.

Voices calls "Merhaba, Sidyma (hello)." Only when a tree rustles is the mysterious voice revealed to be an olive picker. It is olive season and the groves are alive with villagers. Olive trees bedeck the remotest hillsides and valleys.

The location of ancient cities is one of their mysteries. Sidyma is no exception. Skipper treks up past a fort to a small plateau high above the valley. Its location could only be based on defence or religion. It would have been a beautiful city. The ruins date from the Roman period include substantial tombs and temples. Modern day, Sidyma includes blocks and tombs in its buildings. The mosque is built on the agora.

Musketelle phones. "Where are you?" "Sidyma, on a mountain." Silence. "Where the bloody hell is that?" Mobile coverage in rural Turkey is excellent.

Husetin invites Skipper to overnight with his family (25TL, dinner and breakfast). A loud individual, Skipper asks for the mosque. The Iman offers accommodation. Husetin presses his offer. Skipper is shown to a pleasant room and ensuite (shower is cool not warm). Husetin is forester for the Sidyma area. I eat separately but in company of him, wife and daughter. Dinner is potato chips, tomato, olives, honey and bread with tea.

Breakfast is cheese, honey, bread, tomato, olives and tea. A photo with his brother, Cemil. Cemil speaks English from his time in Germany. Many villagers have worked in Germany.

Skipper treks past the mosque and is invited by the Iman for tea. His daughter is home from college. A graceful, lovely lady, she is a student English teacher. Skipper considers it would be interesting to stay with the Iman and experience firsthand village Islam. The Iman is a pleasant middle aged fellow. The only concern would be the five daily and evening calls to Allah. The mosque is at the center of Sidyma's city ruins.

Marika and Rolf, a Dutch couple are trekking the Lycian Way during a week's holiday. Skipper joins them to Gavuragth. A long walk over local roads and tracks and a steep descent to Gavuragth. Bel is a village along the way. Skipper buys fruit from a local fruiter's truck. A village lady invited us to tea and then, unrequested, served a basic lunch. It was a fait accompli (30TL for three). The entrepreneurial spirit grows along the walk. Walkers need to make clear what they require from villagers.

In Gavuragth, it is reported that the only accommodation is Patara Lodge. This may not be so if villages are approached however the village is almost deserted.

The Lodge is in a walled compound around the main watch keepers houses. Aspen, the owner built the Lodge as his Turk summer home after working years in Germany. He returns to Germany with wife, Juliane, in November for winter. Aspen makes clear the costs before confirming a stay. Its luxury is more expensive ( there are bunks or rooms) than a village pension. Guests stay in the home and welcomed as if a family member. Aspen is an excellent cook. He speaks English and German. A pool, dogs and spectacular coastal views to Patara, complete the scene. Skipper watched the storms lash the coast and stayed another night. Rolf and Marieke left to catch a plane home.

Aspen and Juliane were going to the airport so generously drove Skipper to ancient Letoon avoiding a long "road" component. The ancient ruins of Pydnai, Letoon, Xanthos and Patara (World Heritage sites) are all in a valley which is the heart of Lycia. Pydnai is a fort guarding the southern valley. Letoon is a religious sanctuary site (to Goddess Leto and two children, Apollo and Artemis) at the base of a small hill surrounded by a low lying swampy where the Goddess turned two shepherds into frogs. Today the theatre and ruins are surrounded by an endless mass of plastic shelters over tomato plants.

Xanthos must have been a beautiful city. It dominates the valley from a high hillside location bordered by a river. Much of city's central buildings and streets remain in outline and marble. One can only imagine how lovely the Nereid Temple frescoes facing out over the valley and the city gate, would be now if not "stolen" by British, for the British Museum.

The citizens of Xanthos upheld their freedom above all else. "Freedom" supported mass suicide and scorching the city, rather than submission as slaves to invaders. Sitting in the well preserved theatre, looking out over the city, it takes little to imagine, under a full moon, less violent, peaceful proceedings.

Skipper took taxis between Letoon, Xanthos and Patara as buses were intermittent and required long walks to the sites (20TL). The Flower Garden pension (30TL B&B, 15TL dinner) is a welcoming family place. Meals (which are excellent, cooked by the older son) are in a large room visited by family and friends of the owner who is Patara's village Mayor. Skipper watched the ruby sun go down over ancient Patara's harbour. Exploration would await tomorrow.

A small stray dog (Denver?) accompanied skipper during the day's exploration.

Patara prospered as the Lycian capital and main port. In time, sand silted the harbour and overcame the city ruins. Excavated ruins (much remains) have been well preserved under sand cover. These ruins include parts of the theatre and the first known parliament building (Lycian cities elected representatives, depending on city size) and lighthouse.

Strangely, there is no signage about the ruins. Fortunately Skipper had use of the Pension's Patara guidebook.

On walking out of Patara Skipper was called over by Chris and Sarah Elphick (UK) They had delivered Skipper's walking poles to Flower Pension, after they were left at Patara Lodge. They are English sailors who moor their yacht at Chichester on the Solent.

Delikkemer (2000 years old) is part of the Patara aquaduct. The aquaduct or open channel, brought freshwater around hills, for some 30 kms. The Delikkemer took the water across a dip between hills (one kilometer), via a pipeline supported by a stone bridge. It would not be possible to do so in an open aquaduct. The pipeline consisted of large stone blocks holed so that when joined formed a pipe line. The pipeline meant water could go down and up the other side to continue its less rapid, almost horizontal flow in an open channel down to Patara.

Skipper meets a young Australian fellow. A solo backpacker from Townsville (originally from Ingham). It seems only Kiwis and Australians are on the full Walk.

It's Independence Day in Kalkan. Horns sound from cars and walkers in procession to the flag bedecked harbour for a night of eating and dancing to a traditional instrument band and singers. Ataturks image is displayed on a continual video screen. Skipper meets Lou, Tony and Mike, English residents of Kalkan. They kindly invite Skipper to meet them the next day but with the weather being unsettled and dawning a fine day, Skipper opts to continue the Walk to Kas. It proves to be a wise decision.

The Onur Pension is excellent. Balcony has spectacular views over the old town and harbour to the islands (35TL B& B).

Skipper takes a dolmus to Azbek and taxi to Saribelen (20TL) to avoid roads. The days walk is to Gokceorren. A long walk over beautiful hills, through valleys, yaylas, and villages.

A goat herdsman and wife invite Skipper for tea. They live in a stone and timber single storey house. It is basic, etched in poverty or the simple life. The wife makes chai over a fireplace in the living room. There are no chairs or tables. She provides lunch (unrequested) including syruped figs which she later gives as a farewell present to Skipper. She produces photos of other walkers who she has entertained. She is nearly crippled by arthritis. Skipper pays 20TL hoping that the excess will assist in obtaining medical assistance or ease her apparent poverty (She is later heard shouting farewell and moving seemingly effortlessly??).

Near the path Skipper passes huge blocks, the remains of an unmarked ancient ruin. Dark clouds and thunder over the range urge Skipper to move on.

Ahmet has just put his horse in the stable. He lives in Gokceorren. He sees Skipper entering the village and extends and invitation to stay at his house at 25 TL (Dinner, B&B). Ahmet is loud and direct, his wife, Fatma is quiet and reserved, the young son, Toran, is typically active. A pleasant room with ensuite bathroom is "home" for the night. However, when there is no hot water (there is a gas heater), Ahmet repeats "Socuk" i.e. cold. Evening meal is vegetarian. I eat at a table while the family eat off a large round plate, as seems to be the custom. After dinner an invitation is given to join the family in the family room (with TV) with its wood stove and enjoy hot nuts and chai.

Skipper is invited to retire at 2000. A lovely family, poor but seemingly healthy and content. The house is basic but with all facilities.

Ahmet forecasts rain. The day dawns fine. Skipper departs for Phellos. The track goes up into the hills with views out across valleys and mountains. Thunderous black clouds herald a wet day. The track is through thick bush that when wet leans in to ensure a wet walker. Skipper dons a goretex rain jacket. Skipper is partially wet and cold. The gods of Phellos are in discussion; the thunder reverberates through the hills. Rain starts falling. Skipper presses on over slippery rocks through grasping bushes thankful for the support of the walking poles. It is a day with different beauty.

Phellos is revealed in a break in the weather. It is located on a ridge summit which limits its size, provides defence. Skipper wonders at the engineering required to build a city in such a place. Skipper eats the syruped figs provided by the herdsman's wife. It is to prove unwise.

It is the end of the walk. The weather is now consistently rain and thunder and cold.

Dede (Grandfather) Café is owned by retired Gemal and his wife. Skipper is grateful to find a room and hospitality after a wet and cold walk. Skipper is also not feeling well. It seems linked to the syruped figs. Skipper is two spend two days at Dede Café unable to continue. Gemal and his wife each night drive to Kas to avoid the night cold. They generously, leave food if needed and return next morning. Gemal's son, Orhan in Kas is able to interpret my position so Gemal is not concerned. Despite the infliction, Skipper enjoys the hospitality of Gemal and his wife in their superb house (some 200 years old).

After two nights Gemal drives Skipper to the Kas Otogar (bus station). Skipper realizes that the walking poles remain are left in the Dede Café and asks Gemal to send by carrier to Sigacik.

Skipper travels by bus to Demre to view ancient Myra and the St. Nicholas church. A small car, horn tooting, stops the bus. It is Gemal who has driven back to Dede Café and delivered the walking poles to the bus. It is most generous and typically Turk. Skipper is very grateful.

Myra is known for its necropolis (tombs) cut high up, into the cliff and theatre below. It is another ancient city closely surrounded by plastic tomato "sheds." It was disappointing.

St. Nicholas Church is set in suburbia and covered in a metal shed. The interior is interesting for its history but the exterior construction is destroys the context.

Interestingly, while St. Nichols, the original "Father Xmas" did provide for children, he never traveled further than his home city of Patara and the nearby Demre region. Many of his well know attributes are bound in mythology.

Skipper bused to Finike to join friends, Paddy and Caroline on Kristiane. Three lovely days hospitality, aboard at the Marina, ensured a fully recovered Skipper could return in good health to Sigacik and Sahula.

The remainder of the Lycian Way must await another time.

A superb experience. Thanks Kate Clow and the team and their sponsors.

NOTES:

Skipper particulars: Aged 62, retired, fit and healthy with a background in outdoors camping, walking, rock climbing and mountaineering. Presently on a circum-navigation on yacht: Sahula. Blog: www.sailblogs.com (Sahula). Walk was done solo.

Gear: Skipper would have preferred to have a light weight one person tent. A bivvy bag provides no night rain protection for the pack. Skipper would not carry it or a sleeping bag, again if deciding to stay in village houses or pension accommodation. Weight is of the utmost consideration. A light weight pack is also required. If doing the high mountain sections a tent is essential. It could be forwarded to the town nearby using a cargo transport company and asking it be retained in their office till arrival.

Camping out would be a superb experience. Skipper did not camp out on the Walk. There are many excellent camping places. A groundsheet is essential against stony ground. A stove would be useful although a fire is possible in all campsites. Nights would be cool to cold. Darkness came early.

Other walkers: Skipper met only four (NZ, Australia, Holland) walking long sections. Day walkers only did the first section to Faralya.

Village houses: Villages sought out Skipper to stay in their houses. Skipper was solo. It may be different if a couple but accommodation always had room for two. The cost was 25TL dinner B&B. Pensions charged 30TL B&B with dinner 15 TL or eat out.

Hot water baths: If this is essential check it is available before settling on accommodation. Skipper found it was often not included. A little suffering in a sea of hospitality is hardly a problem. The solution is to go without a bath and enjoy a simple wash.

Meals: Basic but adequate. Often vegetarian only. The most basic was fried chips, tomato and olives for dinner. Pension meals were excellent. Stomach upsets from local food is a risk. Avoid syruped figs!!!

All the Guide's recommended accommodation proved very good. There were always other pensions available as well. Skipper stayed in Tan Pension in Fethiye. It was excellent with superb balcony views over the harbour (25TL B&B)

Enterprising villagers: Beware of invites to Chai or tea. It may be in fact an "invitation" to a meal. The meal may prove to be a fait accompli. In any event, an enjoyable time will be had with a villager and the cost is minimal and to a good cause. The cost is likely to be 10 TL a person.

An invitation to only chai may also involve paying for each cup. Usually in Turkey chai offered is free. In any event it may be best to offer to pay. The cost will be around a Lira a cup.

Lunch: Skipper carried some fruit, sausage, a tomato and cheese (if available) and munched peanuts and dried apricots and figs with a muesli bar (if available). Eating as you go rather than a large lunch is better.

Cost: The Walk would be very inexpensive if only camping. A mix of camping and pensions would be pleasant. Village houses cost 25 TL dinner, B&B, Pensions cost 30TL B&B, dinner extra 15 TL. Large towns may require use of pensions.

Water: Skipper carried a platypus water tube to a plastic 1litre container bag and two half litre bottles i.e. 2 litres. There was always a bottle remaining. If camping a bottle would be needed for cooking. Cisterns exist in the first part of the walk but where there are beehives it would be risky competing with them. Many villages have only water tanks. This would mean walk is in short supply and if taken may have to be paid for.

It would not be possible, unless camping, to purify all water drunk during the walk.

Map: The map rapidly needed consistent repair i.e. taping. A colour copy of threlevant partrt being would save the original. The map is not reliable as a detailed guide to the path. The Guide book is needed to ensure that a walker is on the trail. Again a photocopy of the relevant part would save weight.

Marking: The red and white stripe is easily seen all along the track. It is a remarkable effort by the marker makers. Skipper got lost a few times but mainly due to not concentrating on looking for marks and walking past them. At one point a new road had destroyed the marks. However after a couple of days it soon became clear how the track "worked." It pays to read the Guide for each section. Villages will direct a walker to the track. The Lycian Way sign posts are placed at the beginning and end of each section. These are particularly useful when finding the trail next day or when on a road and finding the trail which runs off it.

Level of difficulty: The Walk is no problem to a fit and healthy person. It didn't involve any seriously dangerous sections. Although, between Bel and Patara Lodge the last down hill section is steep and across rock. If it was wet this section would require extreme caution.

The times given in the Guide are accurate. Of course, a fast walker will reduce them. Skipper was generally at accommodation by 1600 but some days arrival was earlier. It depends when you depart. Skipper departed generally by 1000. If camping you could leave a lot earlier but in pensions and houses breakfast is earliest at 0800 and more like 0900.

Walking poles: Skipper found these essential when walking on rocky, slippery paths with a heavy pack. The substantially reduce the likelihood of a sprain or damage to feet.

Boots: Good ankle supporting boots are essential. The rocky terrain takes its toll on boots. The soles on Skipper boot separated due to glue failure. Fortunately it happened at the end of the Walk. The boots are high quality Italian leather with goretex interiors. The goretex is useless.

Time to do Walk: Skipper took some ten days and stopped at Kas or Dede Café below Phellos. This covered about a third of the walk. However Skipper excluded parts of it. Exclusions included Patara Lodge to Patara, Xanthos to Patara and Patara to Saribelen. On these parts Skipper took a dolmus but more often a taxi. Average cost of Taxi fare was 20 TL. It was well worth it. Walking between plastic tomato sheds didn't appeal.

When to do the Walk: Skipper did the Walk in the last two weeks of October. The weather was initially sunny days and cool evenings. However the last week winter storms were hanging around and broke over the Walk on the Phellos section. The better time to do the Walk would be in September. If the mountain section from Demre to Finike is to be done then it is best done in September. Skipper planned to do this section but the storms ended all hope. Walking in rain is not pleasant particularly as the water laiden bushes ensure that even with rain or no rain it is doubly wet. Wet rocks and slipping is also are a considerable risk.

Memories: The scenery, ancient cities and the marvelous villagers leave indelible memories.

**************

Passage Report No. 34 Sigacik No.1

Sahula Passage Report No. 34

Sigacik, Turkey - Winter 2009-10

Sigacik is "home" till April 2010. Winter is officially October to April. Sahula is the guest of the marina management and owners. They could not be more welcoming. Cuneyd, the manager could not do more for Skipper. He was a master on merchant ships until his wife persuaded him to take a more homebound job. The marina is the work swansong of Husnu (74), its architect. He is currently building an earthquake proof, energy efficient retirement home nearby.. Skipper was also welcomed by Getin, a member of an Istanbul shipping family and part owner of the marina. It is impressive that these people are concerned with the environmental and social impact of their work.

Their awareness will be important to Sigacik. It is a small (pop. 2000) fishing and rural town relatively free of tourism. Its old town is uniquely surrounded by an intact ancient wall with arched gates. It is the site of new "ancient" Teos which moved when "old" Teos was devastated by an earthquake in the eons of time. The new marina (500 berths) and a proposed passenger ship terminal could lose "new" Sigacik to modern mammon.

Usually a cruiser nestles for the winter with fellow sailors in a crowded marina. Skipper's experience is to be somewhat different. There are no other English speaking yacht crews here apart from Ozkan on Kayitsiz III. If Skipper is going to be a member of a Turk community then learning basic Turkish is going to be a priority. Finding a teacher is a challenge in a community with only a primary school. English is taught at a secondary school in Seferihisar, some five kilometers distant.

Another challenge is to have basic repairs done on Sahula. Usually, work is done in a "sunayi," a part of town dedicated to small business in the trades. The nearest "sunayi" is in Seferihisar. Ozkan assures Skipper that that is no problem. Ozkan is an Izmir local. Skipper assumes that a local metal work industry services the local farming community.

Sahula has no shower aboard. Cuneyt approached the nearby hotel who readily agreed to a hot shower. However, a shower aboard seems a priority and a hot shower a considerable challenge. Equally, an onboard heater is critical to ward off the expected winter cold. Both these items while necessary here are also needed in later cruising in Europe and Patagonia.

Skipper has now heard that family and friends planning to visit cannot be here this year. Plans are therefore made to walk the Lycian Way from Fethiye to Fineke over two weeks in late October.

It was time to broaden the horizon. On the third day Ozkan returned to Kayitsiz III to prepare her for the long winter. He would live in his chic apartment in hometown Izmir (pop. 3 million) Skipper had his first foray beyond Sigacik, accompanying Ozkan home.

The agora in ancient cities was were traders gathered to do business. Izmir's "Agora" is where wealthy Izmir-ites preen in and before, shops that are beyond most Turks. It is a citadel to the economic divide. It exclaimed the "Mc-World.," a modern, western Turkey. A bland cultureless place.

Konak, suburb in "old" Izmir, was different. It exclaimed cultural Turkey in a maze of noisy, narrow lanes bursting with colour and entrepreneurial spirit. A huge market selling everything. It included a ships chandlery and metal working shop making, inter alia, stainless steel stoves.

Kate, a nanny, is a young Australian married to Englishman, Mike. Both are working at a nearby tourist hotel. Skipper met them on the return bus to Sigacik.

Gideon, a retired Israeli, lives in Sigacik. His boat (57 feet) is in Izmir. It seems that Sahula attracts yachties passing by.

A sheet previously caught around the propeller pulling Tanya (motor) off alignment. A knock resulted when the shaft hit the stern tube (where shaft goes through the boat) Ozkan assisted to realign the motor and shaft.

A strong northerly pinned Sahula against the concrete wharf testing the fenders. Sahula awaited a lull and moved to a seemingly more protected berth. Juggling wind and construction work proves to be a challenge. Stern line is to an anchor in a concrete culvet.

Skipper and Ozkan are invited to dinner at Mustafa (85, sailor) and his daughters apartment. Friends of Ozkans, they live near Sigacik. Turkish hospitality at home.

"Chai" - that word that transcends language - a standard invitation if meeting a Turk. Skipper can have numerous cups a day.

Skipper bused to Bodrum to visit Thomas, a cruiser friend (Nahda Brahma) and Astrid his partner. Bodrum, an old town (with a superb castle/underwater archeology museum) is a mix of tourists and history and culture. Harmony VI (Vasco de Gama Rally) and three Japanese friends (Sho, Sam, John, retired businessmen with families in Japan), on a circumnavigation, were anchored in Bodrum Bay. Thomas co-opted a local dinghy so he, Skipper and Astrid could make a surprise visit and enjoy a Japanese meal aboard. Sam does superb watercolour paintings.

Some things never change. In ancient times bringing a new ship to water meant a sled on rolling poles. Skipper watched a 50 m newly built yacht, wend its way, upon a huge sled (steel and timber), yanked and towed by caterpillar tractors (not slaves!) over continually laid boards, down a winding hillside street to the waters edge. Turkish shipbuilding skills are handed down father to son or apprentice, from ancient times ensuring little change in the art. Labour is poorly paid and available. Technical colleges for trades are uncommon.

Buses are the breath and life of Turkish transportation. Trains, city or country, are almost non-existent. Skipper negotiated four buses to travel from Sigacik to Bodrum. Three were between Sigacik and Izmir Otogar (bus terminal). Connections are without delays due the frequency of the services.

A haircut is a haircut, except in Turkey. In the latter parts of the process the Barber produces a small flame and proceeds to burn off offending hairs around ears and face with a quick hand movement that ensures the hairs singe rather than Skipper sacrificed.

The Piet Reis (ancient Turkish navigator/cartographer of the Mediterranean) NGO promotes marine science. Ozkan was invited to relate his global adventures to an Izmir audience. The attendees clapped when Ozkan revealed Skipper's voyage (and age!) and feted with a superb meal. Circumnavigations remain, to Turks, an adventure outside of reality.

Izmir bookshop increased the shipboard library by five new books: modern Turkish politics, Attaturk and Ottoman history and two Turk author's novels. English books are not readily available.

Musketelle (NZ; Peter and Barbara) anchored off Sigacik. Skipper enjoys news of cruising friends. They will winter in Marmaris. The cruising fleet are "nesting" in various marinas: Bodrum, Marmaris, Fethiye, Finike and Alanya.

Sunday, day of rest. Skipper enjoys a surprise visit and lunch in Sigacik park, with Yilmaz and Belma.

In the afternoon, Cuneyd, Savas, Aysel invite Skipper to visit ancient Teos and "chai" (Ayik Teos restaurant) watching the sunset over the bay.

It is time to leave for Lycia to walk the ancient roads and trails. Sahula is safely under the watchful eye of ex-merchant ship master, Cuneyd.

Next report Lycian Way.

Best

David

November, 2009

Sigacik

Turkey.

Report 33 Fethiye to Sigacik

Sahula Passage Report 33

Fethiye to Sigacik

Sept, 2009

It was time. Fethiye provided good memories but the journey must continue.

Richard (US) on Moonshadow and Sahula sailed to Kizilkuyruk Koyu anchorage in Fethiye Korfesi (gulf). Richard and partner Anita had met skipper in Townsville 4 years ago. Anita is home in the US, Richard is at a loose end. A talented singer, musician and hiku writer.

Kizilkuyruk offered clear water but also crowded anchorage. Skipper needed time out before the voyage north.

The crowded anchorage offered a challenge in deep water, stern line anchoring. Irfan (Turk sailor, retired businessman) dived in to take a line ashore. Sahula had not previously used over 60 m of anchor chain and added rope. The shore lines are a criss-crossing web. Sahula is 3-4 m (10-15 feet) from the neighbouring boat. Only boats leaving find out if the anchor chains cross.

Irfan and wife Ozlem (Istanbul - retired businessman), invited us for drinks which included a Turkish meal and, inter alia, political conversation.

What fascinates Skipper is the lack of information or education when in Australia, on this country. All that is heard is the problems on Israel. Skipper's interest in local politics is aroused.

Turkish politics is complex, reflecting a long history at the cross roads of European and Asian civilization. Its borders with Iraq, Iran, Syria, Armenia Greece, Bulgaria and Georgia, add to the complexity.

It is not possible to understand the multiple strands of Turk politics in Skipper's short visit. However, it is interesting to observe from the viewpoint of visitor's "fresh page." The views may change in time.

Conspiracy theories abound. The current government is perceived as driven by Washington who is secretly promoting a separatist Kurdistan to secure oil resources thus undermining the unity of the Turkish state and moving towards an Islamic government.

Two other "US" scenarios have evolved: there is an all powerful Islamic Iman in the US who is directing the current Government and PM. The Iman focus is an Islamic revolution throughout the world. He is building schools to prepare the people all around the world, including Australia. Another is that there is a group of private US corporations and businessmen who control all world events. They have been preparing Obama for President for years. These views are related by tertiary educated young people.

Democracy in Turkey is relatively new - from around late 1980's (last army coup). The army holds a special position. Attaturk, the post-WWI, esteemed army general (lead Turk forces at Gallipoli) and President (photo in every home, business and prominent billboards), apparently supported the army as the upholder of the constitution and secularism. Attaturk is revered for chartering the direction that underwrites the modern Turkish state. By all accounts a truly amazing individual.

Turkey aspires to join the European Union. A part of the application is peace with the Kurd minority and unification of Cyprus. The current government is driving a peace process with each issue and improving strained relations with Armenia (alleged Armenian massacre). The middle class perceive this as driven by the US. Turkey's US paranoia is the highest in the region. This view places a particular Turkish interpretation of "democracy." Instead of accepting that democratic change can only come about by free elections, the middle class, while supporting peace and democracy, seem to ultimately accept that change maybe by military coup.

Retired generals, businessmen, politicians are currently on trial for a proposed violent coup to depose the current government.

This plot is viewed as merely a construct of the current government seeking to discredit the army and its middle class supporters

Skipper reads the "Today's Zaman," a daily English language newspaper dedicated mostly to reporting politics. It presents a government upholding and nurturing democracy. The Prime Minister's reported speech on Independence Day contained support for all the essential principles of democracy. Middleclass friends exclaim the paper is a tool of the Government and the religious right. The Prime Minister is allegedly guilty of double speak.

Skipper has not met any educated, middle class or small business people, who support the current Government yet they are not supporters of the Opposition. They are not involved in active politics other than to discuss it. The Opposition is perceived as extreme conservatives, right wing, and lead by old men.

To Skipper, it seems Turkey needs time to nurture a nascent democracy and develop a credible alternative government. The armed forces remain barrack bound but at times commenting on political issues. There is substantial debate over the army's role in politics.

In the meantime, Turkey is a peaceful, prosperous modern state. A joy to visit to experience its friendly, colourful, people, ancient history and beautiful scenery.

Two mausoleums in ruins, dominate the parched valley of the ancient city of Lydae, a half hour uphill walk from the anchorage. A constant query is "Why here?"

Richard previously has met Lydae's sole residents; Muftu (the goat herder) and his family. His family have been here for generations. Their farmhouse is basic in contrast to the substantial buildings that were Lydae. Access is by a walk and boat to Fethiye or Gocek. It is a serene, ancient, isolated, place. His wife makes shawls, bags and wooden utensils. Honey, bread and thyme tea is also on sale. We enjoy tea and buy some shawls, honey and bread.

Moonshadow leaves for Fethiye. Skipper remains taking time out before sailing to Bodrum. Time is needed to meet other cruisers and glean information on the journey ahead. Skipper has a day painting modern works that contrast the colour of the sea to the olive trees and sky.

Evening drinks and meal with Chris and Barbara of UK.

Winlink isn't responding. Skipper cannot receive weather reports or emails. Deep frustration.

It didn't seem possible, a whale off Turkey. There it was, huge in size, tail surfacing, breath steaming.

The weather pattern seems settled: morning calm, mid morning wind rises, by afternoon it blows to 20-25 knots and always on the "nose" when heading north (west). It's the fabled "Meltemi." It blows a strong NW'ly (and follows the coast) in summer (July, August) and eases in September. Sahula leaves early morning hoping she is anchored in mid morning calm.

Sahula has left the Lycian Coast (Marmaris to Antalya) passing to the Carian Coast: Bodrum to Marmaris. She seeks shelter in Gerbekse. A swinging anchorage (Guide) in soft mud. It is crowded (Gulets, day trip boats) so poor holding dictate stern lines, testing Skippers skills. A katabatic wind drives down, from steep rocky mountains, in early evening testing the lines.

Skipper stays another day (average two days in each anchorage) to explore and sketch and swim in clear water. The ruins of a small Byzantine church provides an ideal sketch topic. The copula and windows border a superb coastal vista.

Lesley and Mike invite Skipper for drinks. Mike, a recently retired UK fireman and Lesley cruise the Med each summer.

Fellow cruisers readily provide information on the cruise ahead.

Evening "welcomed" the Meltemi sweeping down off the mountain. Skipper watched anxiously as Sahula swung to 3m and near shallower rocks. Another anchor was considered but with a steady depth and darkness, the decision was to stay. However, the Admiralty anchor was dug out of the lazarette and made ready on the 100m rope. It remains tied to the stern rail, ready for use. The wind lessened over night.

Morning, the Meltemi was NW was light and blowing Sahula off the rocks but along the shore. Skipper had either to re-anchor or leave. The sinkable stern line (floating line is needed) caught under a rock so a neighbouring sailor released it while Skipper stood ready with Tanya (motor). The solo sailor always welcomes assistance whenever offered or sought.

Sahula left for Bozuk Buku, three hours away along a spectacular limestone cliff coast.. A Hellenistic walled citadel marked the entrance.

Sahula rested on a swinging anchor. Full astern ensured the anchor was firm in the weed and sand.

Anchorages in Turkey are at best mud (often soft) but more commonly sand and weed. The latter varying to impregnably thick. The best option is a bow anchor and stern line to shore. While a dragging anchor is less likely with this option it does not eliminate it if wind is abeam. However, there remains the issue of attaching and releasing the stern line/s. Hard enough with two but problematic with one.

With two, one can swim the line ashore or back. With one, leaving the boat unattended requires a dinghy. A solo sailor has to attach (or detach) the line and return to the boat before it drifts away from the shore then tighten (or pull in) the stern line. One crew advised they stayed in reverse however this option when solo could mean a boat ashore.

Most boats anchor with two lines ashore. However, one only is often sufficient. If two they need to be spaced to counter swing. If the same rock "bollard" is used then releasing requires pre-arranged assistance the next morning.

Sahula always departs in the calmness of dawn, anchoring some three hours later, ideally, before the afternoon Meltemi picks up and the fleet comes in to nest. It can be pandemonium as boats jockey for crowded space. Inexperienced charter yachts add pepper. Gulets add brute bullying. Anchor chains criss-cross the sea floor and a boat spun web of shore lines, add interest to morning departures.

Add to all the summer restaurant owners cajoling newly arrivals with a free wharf or buoy. Today a "new" mooring buoy broke from a 45 footer.

It's a case of the "...early bird catches the worm" and "patience...a virtue..." and caution, a necessity.

During an evening walk in the ruins of ancient Loryma, skipper noticed an oven in recent use by Ikat, wife of a fisherman. Skipper "ordered" fresh oven baked bread (Ikmek) for the morning. It was delivered by a pretty daughter. It cost 5 lira a loaf, small compensation for Itak's hard work of supplying timber to the oven from a rocky barren landscape.

The surviving ruins, scattered over the hills, are mainly walls made from perfectly rectangular large blocks. Skipper wonders at the engineering to cut and place these huge blocks required in their many hundreds.

There is always some fact to compare life to. Peter on Coolchange topped most. Peter is (or was) a solo sailor on a 26 foot Canadian yacht. The Red Sea ushered in his troubles. While asleep Coolchange rammed into an island destroying the bowsprit and putting a hole in the hull. The engine responded and he made it to a beach, affected repairs, under the protective watch of fellow Vasco de Gama rally participants.

The latest news is that while sailing towards Cyprus, with is wife, Coolchange collided with a container ship. They abandoned the yacht. and were rescued by an oil tanker and helicopted to port. They flew home to Canada.

Coolchange was not giving up. She drifted into Israeli waters where the Navy was about to blow her up as a suspect terrorist target loaded with explosives. Second thoughts checked with air sea rescue and found her true story.

The latest is Peter is considering returning to claim her and presumably continue his round world voyage. What his wife thinks is not on current reports.

Fortunately Skipper phoned Yilmaz. He and wife Belma, where on their yacht, Sirene (32feet) at Palamut Harbour on the Datca Peninsula. Sahula was off Simi Island heading in their direction.

Stern anchoring in a natural harbour is a challenge. Doing so in a busy, small walled harbour in the afternoon Meltemi, upped the anti. Sahula after two attempts to place the anchor so the bow was perpendicular to the stone wharf, managed the exercise without leaving red (hull paint) on the wharf or Sirene.

A picturesque small village, Palumut and meeting good friends was worth the stress. A hot shower added to satisfaction. Sahula topped up with water and was washed off.

An evening with good friends in the Limani Restaurant added spice. Sirene sailed off east to the Hisaronu Gulf, Sahula, and west to Knidos.

Knidos "... one of the Dorian hexapolis: the six cities of the Dorian Confederacy. The city was prosperous..." with the harbour well placed for passing trade. It was famous for the first nude statue of a female: Aphrodite. It was believed to bring good fortune to seafarers (Guide). Much of the ruins (main street, temples, agora, and theatre) survive. The statue has passed into mythology. Knidos must have been a beautiful city (adorned in white marble) in its hey day. Skipper climbs the nearby hills tracing the huge city wall over several kilometers.

Sahula is anchored in Knidos's west harbour protected by the ancient breakwater. It's raining and windy, not good conditions for a crowded anchorage reputed to be poor holding. Night envelopes anxious skippers. It is the first rain for Skipper since India.

A night storm comes in from Greece. The southerly wind (normally NW) drives directly into the harbour. Many yachts drag anchors. It is chaos. Excited night voices announce a collision or threat.

Sahula is in danger. The wind (lighting, thunder, rain and pitch blackness) has increased (24 knots) stretching the 50 m (11 m depth) of chain to place her almost under the huge bowsprit of a gulet now directly astern. The anchor is holding. Skipper faces a night on anchor watch with no sleep till daylight. The Gulet captain refuses to move. He claims his chain stretches to under a large private motor yacht. Skipper takes flash photos of the gulet's bow spit. The Gulet skipper demands why? Skipper informs him that unless some action is taken the matter may result in Skipper suing him. Skipper (Sahula) suggests Sahula have fore and aft shore lines attached with the assistance of the Gulet crew. Gulet skipper readily agrees. Sahula is much happier. Skipper maintains a watch till daybreak.

In the midst of the exercise, the yacht ahead drags its anchor and drifts onto Sahula's (steel) bow. Chaos reigns. The yacht skipper is in panic. Skipper directs the yachts skipper to go full ahead to port. He does and after much grinding, splitting of plastic fittings on his yachts stern and catching Sahula's anchor chain, she is free to head into the night to re-anchor. Sahula is unharmed. At last the gods seem to be smiling. The morning light can't come quick enough.

Again the lesson is clear: yachts with shore lines have less problems than those on a swinging anchor in places with poor holding. Another option is to moor at a restaurant jetty. However, the latter must first question its condition the impact of wave action. Yachts at the Knidos jetty had to leave in the midst of the storm.

Skipper's masterstroke is to have, port and starboard, two rope drums (with handles for winding the rope onto the drum) aft, each with 100m rope. They verge on essential items in Turkey (Mediterranean) for safe, easy working of shore lines. The rope should be capable of floating. Sahula's sinkable ropes when slack, catch on underwater rocks.

Nothing aboard is more important than having clear sight. Glasses always are a risk. During a short sleep this morning, Skipper broke the ear piece on his titanium (unbreakable) glasses.

A cruiser must be resilient. Skipper had two previous glasses one of which had an ear piece similar to the current set. Using a small vice, a magnifying glass, file and minute screw driver, the old was converted to the new.

Lesson: carry spares of glasses ear pieces or old glasses for conversion, spare glasses tiny screws, small vice, optometrist's screwdriver and small stainless wire (to wire parts) and if all else fails, the previous glasses.

Seven Islands sounded romantic enough and it enclosed a harbour large enough to have space for all. At least that is what Skipper thought when Sahula was securely anchored in North Cove with no other boats. But Sahula was in the Gulets anchorage. How does a skipper know? There are no signs other than it is a pretty spot. Perhaps the ring barking of the trees by stern lines rapped taut from Gulets, was evidence.

The evidence is in the nesting hour (late afternoon) and with it two large gulets (6 more came later). They could have anchored away from Sahula as the bay was empty but their ring barked trees entitled possession and in they came to within 20-30 feet (8-10 m) either side of Sahula. As well their anchor chain crossed Sahula's. The serenity was over or at least now enjoyed with over 40 people aboard two gulets (over 120 with 6). Sahula was alone but only as the sole yacht in the "gulets anchorage." The alternative was to join charter yachts in the "charter yacht" anchorage. Anchorages have become gulet or charter yacht theme parks. The result of an increasingly crowded, leisure seeking world that encourages the mass over the individual.

Turkey as a cruising ground in summer (July to September) is not for those that want to be alone or with limited others, in serene, isolated anchorages. Suffering massed gulets or massed charter yachts or both, in crowded anchorages is a major part of the Turkey cruising experience.

Sadun Boro (82) is the ancient mariner of Turkey. His yacht, "Kismet," (to be featured later in a museum) is in Okluk, Degirmen Gulf in Gokova Korfezi (gulf). In it he was the second Turk to circumnavigate. He has also written a guide to cruising Turkey and three other sailing books. Sahula is anchored with stern lines in Okluk. Kayitsiz III, Ozkan's yacht is similarly moored further along the inlet. Kayitsiz III is the eighth Turkish yacht to circumnavigate.

Skipper met Sadun Boro while he was in discussion with a representative of the Turkey's marine environmental NGO. Sadun has fought for the environmental integrity of this region for most of his life. He is the icon of the movement. He is now a frail, testy, pleasantly welcoming senior. The meeting and discussion brings back Skipper's memories of a similar life protecting the World Heritage, Great Barrier Reef.

English Harbour in Turkey has an odd ring. The English special boat group in WWII were based in the bay. It is a superb anchorage very well protected. It is a dinghy ride from Okluk's restaurants and supplies. It would be an ideal wintering over anchorage while living aboard.

Skipper in a long walk (bee hive "alley") ended up at Kecr inlet and the Gokova Sailing School, hotel and marina. The centre was established by a wealthy Turk businessman to train Turk sailors in dinghies and yachts.

Skipper completes a small watercolour of Hinewai and starts a painting of Kayitsiz III.

Ozkan arrives in Okluk to join Kayitsiz III.

Paddy and Caroline (Kristiane - Australia) have been cruising friends since Indonesia. They arrived in Okluk from Greece. Caroline reveled in the green forests after arid Greek islands. Bon homme required Skippers well preserved bottle of Australian, "Asti" champagne.

Rurr (plays bassoon in the Istanbul Orchestra) and his family sail into Okluk. They know Ozkan and join Skipper, Paddy and Caroline for an meal ashore.

Cokertme (18nm from Okluk) is home to many octopus. They hide in small, self made, "caves" on the sea bed.) Ozkan seeks one out and after 100 beatings on a rock and immediate cooking (add olive oil and lemon) it is a very tender, delicious meal.

Skipper isn't a keen hunter. The catch requires reaching into their cave to extract it while it entwines its tentacles around the arm, in its last fight for survival

The Rose Mary restaurant is owned by a friend of Ozkan. Skipper meets Irhan who provides valuable "clues" to unraveling Turkish. After Irhan departs Skipper orders a glass of water using "Sut." The staff looked perplexed. Skipper is served a glass of milk. Water is "Su." Skipper is too embarrassed to refuse it.

The owner and friends prevail upon Skipper in good humour, to not read the Zaman because to do so distorts the "truth."

Sahula is motorsailing into a 20 plus Meltemi in the Bodrum Bogazi (strait) between Kos (Greece) and the coast enroute to Gumusluk. Ashore the coastal "beauty" is defiled by a mass of two storey, white boxes that litter the hillsides in their thousands. It is the developers and architects "art" at their worst.

Gumusluk, is a small village that stands over ancient Myndos and alongside its well protected harbour. In the evening it is alive with its many restaurants. Eating and camaraderie are at the soul of Turkish life. Skipper tests Raki (the Turkish equivalent of Greek Ouzo) and comes away unscathed.

Skipper and Ozkan share time with Aysegul (artist and jazz singer) and Nazih, a guitar musician. Aysegul has an exhibition of her water colours. She is a very creative artist.

Gemal, a guide and cook on the Karkar Mountains trek, is in Bodrum. He comes aboard to sail to Kusadasi. Skipper trades "english" for lessons in Turkish. Gemal is a free agent, as guide, cook, jack of all trades, horse ranch and vineyard staffer, at times.

Samos Island (Greece), is a mere (strait's) mile from the Turkish coast as Sahula motor sails to Kusadasi. It's reputation is strong winds and water over falls. It is calm for Sahula's passage. The coastal view is an ugly mass of white "boxes." Ozkan has been invited to the Kusadasi marina. Skipper assumes (wrongly) that the invitation includes a free berth .

Kusadasi is a large city and home to the first high rise (10 to 20 stories) seen along coastal Turkey. Its centre is a mass of tourist shops surrounded by the old town further on the hill. It is a major port for passenger liners cruising the Aegean. We attend a marina sponsored photography exhibition (superb) in the marina gallery and later, a dinner.

Next day Skipper is in a carpet shop learning about silk carpets. They change colour viewed from different angles. A small carpet is expensive at $900 (Aust). Fortunately, Sahula has no space.

Gemal departs for his next adventure. A good crew and friend.

The marina is expensive (28 Euros /62 TL/$60 Austn, a night) but with the usual facilities. Manager advises it is full. At night the nearby nightclubs ensure sleep is difficult. Skipper assiduously avoids marinas as the expensive equivalent of caravan parks.

A strong meltemi is expected in Sigacik Korfezi (Gulf) so Sahula and Kayitsiz III depart at daybreak. An early land breeze provides good sailing but later pipes in at 25 knots. Sahula motor sails (two reefs and staysail into a short, "white", sea) to anchor for a few days at Sarpdere Koyu, an inlet west of Sigacik. Kayitsiz III is expected at Sigacik on the 1st October for an official welcome.

Sahula calls on the way at Kirkdilim Limani. A beautiful remote inlet beset by a strong meltemi upgraded by the katabatic effect of the surrounding mountains.

Sarpdere provides a protected anchorage in the east inlet with good holding. (3-5 metres). Ozkan demonstrates meltemi anchoring by reversing full speed on a long chain then taking it in to suit the anchorage. At night the Meltemi reaches 30 knots off nearby mountains. It changes direction in accord with the geography and strength. Sleep is fitful.

Dawn is calm, clear sunshine. Sahula is anchored in clear, turquoise blue water with a white rock, mountain backdrop. Skipper does a coloured pencil sketch of the landscape.

Skipper takes a long walk into the gorge between the mountains following an ancient goat track.

Daily the hills resound to the sound of music from bells on a large goat herd. The herd seek salt ashore, before "tinkling" up into the hills.

A call from Thomas (Nahda Brahma, Indonesian Rally) to meet later in Bodrum.

The octopus are again under threat. Ozkan catches two and cooks a delicious pasta and octopus meal.

Swimming requires a wetsuit. Evenings require a jumper and doona.

Fish farms in large floating cages located in the bay, are concerning locals, keen to protect their beautiful coastline. Gokkovar Limani, a beautiful fjord, used as a shore base, is lost to environmental insensitivity.

A mermaid finds Ozkan. Skipper has had his faith restored in Turk architects by Serhat and Onur (student). By a fortunate coincidence Serhat's partner, Sema noticed Kayitsiz III (rafted alongside Sahula) while swimming in a Sigacik Korfezi bay. Sema knows Ozkan. A superb meal by Sema and red wine at Serhat's house and office set in a hillside village in his vineyard and containing his wine cellar. Serhat's designs in timber and stone are noted for their blending in the environment. His house and office evidence his creativity.

It's the end of a journey. Sahula enters Sigacik. Ozkan has a Mayoral reception so Kayitsiz III is met by the official party, the press and guests. Sahula moors astern and Skipper is welcomed also. A lunch is also provided. The marina is in construction phase so Sahula and Kayitsiz III are its only yachts till April next year.

Skipper is asked his age three times by curious locals. They are amazed to find it's 62 years.

Skipper reflects upon the adventures in arriving here. Almost two years and a third of the world, since leaving Townsville in December 2007. It is a fortunate life.

David

Sigacik, Turkey

1st October, 2009

Report 32 Kokova to Fethiye

Sahula Passage Report 32

:Fethiye

July, 2009

Sahula is anchored (11m) outside the Kethiye Ece marina. The marina has some 1000 yachts. It is full and expensive (40 euro). All established marinas are full. Turkey has benefited from having a superb cruising territory immediate to the high cost European Union (Greece). This may change if Turkey enters the EU. Non- competitive marinas (except for location) charge high prices. Prices have doubled within 12 months.

Yacht Plaza Hotel's small marina (up bay from Ece marina) charges a TL a foot but half if regular use is made of the restaurant - a bargain.

Contrarily, in Greece, due to large EU funding, many marinas started but have not completed construction. They are free. In Greece, however the EU visa requirements limit visits to three months.

The UNESCO estimates potentially, 6 billion tourists world wide by 2020. Turkey is a capsule of the impact on cruising territories. Much may be lost unless authorities understand that the unexploited has a higher value for the national spirit and present and future tourism.

Every anchorage is occupied by charter yachts and gulets. Every bay has a restaurant/s. A new road means a large influx of private/resort condominiums may surround the bay.

These impacts are symptomatic of weak government. Greece, Turkey and many Mediterranean countries have weak democracies, politics, planning and legal systems. NGO's and international groups are unrecognized and under resourced. An active "fifth estate" (media) has other priorities. The developers and private individuals exploit the opportunity.

EU membership means greater environmental regulation but relies on national enforcement. Turkey recently implemented, by public consensus, an EU requirement, a national smoking ban on public places including restaurants. Smoking a water pipe was a national symbol.

The solution, government "interference" in private enterprise, means more regulation and active enforcement. These actions impact on cruising freedom. The times "they are a changing..." "Freedom" will have a more restricted meaning. The cruisers initiative takes on different challenges.

Older cruisers lament the losses since their last visit within a decade. Locals lament that "it all has happened within the 6-7 years. Before then ... was a sleepy little town..."

This lament has been heard by the authorities in Fethiye/ Gocek province. In the cause of "preservation of biological variety and environmental values and preventing pollution..." they have introduced regulations that require tourist boats (gulets?) in the Gocek Gulf to have waste storage tanks dischargeable only at sea or into special facilities in port, no noise pollution, no open BBQ's, no diving, pre- booking of the various bays. "Tourist boats" means gulets. They reacted swiftly temporarily blockading the Fethiye harbour and blowing their horns. In time, it will include all yachts.

Fethiye is a delightful, small city. The ambience is of a town in balance between locals and tourists. Skipper finds here many of the items required for cruising. The kalyon Chandlery is excellent (English spoken). Skipper also updates his wardrobe.

There is a very cheap and large, "Tuesday Market" for "everything" (follow the esplanade to a river or canal entrance - 15 minutes).

Fresh potable water is available near the anchorage by dinghy. A public water tap is located alongside the highway left of the Coast Guard station.

The town is literally built over ancient Telmessos. Sacrophagi are amongst the houses, one in the middle of a road. The dead dominate. The Ionic, colonaded, Tomb of Amyntas (350 BC) is cut into sheer cliffs high above the town.

"Take to the hills" has been Skipper reaction to the August heat (30-40) and crowded anchorages. Time out. Guides state 7 degrees for every 1000 m. The Karkar mountains in the NE (on the Georgian border) are 2-3000m. Skipper booked a 7 day trek into the mountains with guide, cook and mules (last day). See: www.middleearthtravel.com - Karkar - 7 days. Skipper will extend the stay to 10 days. Skipper's age met the comment "we had a 70 year old ..."

Sahula will be anchored off a shipyard under the owner's watchful eye at no cost.

The HF radio set up has not worked satisfactorily. The SWR is too high reducing power and transmission. Cruiser experts and Marc Robinson in Sydney did excellent work but the problem is persistent. Finally Skipper shipped the HF and tuner to ICOM Turkey's agents. Without HF Skipper has no access to "Grib" weather reports and on board emails.

Skipper will Xmas with Anne (sister) and family in UK. Sahula will be in a "free" marina near Izmir.

Skipper has the "extra curricula" travel bug: Karkar mountains trek, Lycian way trek, Xmas in UK, home in March and St Pauls trek. Friends notes "Capricorn" is for a goat (mountain specie).

Where to send mail? Skipper has "used" Marmaris Marina. It took two calls to finally get on their mail record but not before they returned the new Visa card. It is critical to check the latest web address and only use a mail box.

Relief - ICOM's Turkey agent reports there was a problem with the HF tuner! SWR is now 1.00 and power some100 watts. Lesson: check the core before the edge.

Traveller's travails. Simple but complex. Paying the "tour" company and ICOM: visa card direct means 5 day wait to clear; deposit into account - need passport and in but another bank refuses due to changed regulations. Patience and doggedness (and finding English speaker) brings results.

'Test run' for the mountaineering trek is a short cruise to Skopea Limani (harbour) near Gocek, with hundreds of other yachts. The Guide says its beautiful. Some 50 boats are crammed into Boynuz Buku (bay) Many of them are huge "white motor yachts." Anchorage is in 15-20 m, too deep for Sahula (prefers 4-10 m) who edges inshore.

Anchorages (10-15m) are crowded so boats seem too close. The assumption is that all will swing similarly with the breezes, but the breezes come, in a short time, 360 degrees, calms to 20 knots. Crowd avoidance means in the deep (15-20m) mid bay or line ashore.

"It's the European holiday period but after August the local boats supplant the charter yachts..." is the bad news. "Winter is lovely cruising..." the good news. The ideal is illusive.

Skipper decides to hold off updating the Coursemaster self steering system (some $2000.00 ). The Autohelm Tillerpilot ($600) off Arial (Aries windvane) remains in vogue.

The Karkar "tour" is over. Skipper "suffers" a transformation psychology being back in his sea world from mountain vistas.

A booking is made on the "Visa Run" tour to Kastillorizon, a Greek island off Kas. Skipper's three month visa requires renewal by re-entering the country. The bus is full of expatriot British emigrants to Turkey. The reason given for their living in a new culture is English weather. They buy an apartment in a "British" enclave within the city and live lives which retain Englishness. Skipper asked if they spoke Turkish. None had even a word.

Another bus to Marmaris to collect mail at the Marina, especially the new Visa card. Marmaris is a large tourist town. The marina has over a 1000 yachts.

A visit to the market and Sahula is ready to continue the cruise north (west).

Next Report Fethiye to Bodrum.

David

Report 31 karkar mountains

Sahula Passage Report 31

Karkar Mountains Trek

15-26th August 2009

Goodbye Sahula, keep safe. Rucksack into Zod, bus, plane over the dry interior of Turkey, to Trabzon in NE Turkey. Aeroflot planes announced the proximity of Georgia.

"We'll meet you at the Airport." Not a soul. A taxi in desperation was avoided by the contact arriving. Skipper meets the group: four Italians, two Israeli's, a Dutchman, Belgian and guide Uraz and assistant/cook Gemal. None were the expected backpacker age group, more 40-60. "Odd," thought Skipper "they must be very fit?" The secret: 7 mules (4 handlers) carried rucksacks, 10 tents, food (15 persons), collapsible chairs, gas cooker ...Day packs were "de rigor."

Ayder pension in the cool hills, hot springs bathhouse then breakfast. The trek worthy of a sultan began. 50 minutes walk, 10 min rest the group wended its way to campsite No. 1.

Skipper reveled in the green mountain pasture covered in wildflowers bounded by the craggy brown peaks of the Karkar (pronounced "catch-car") Range. Late snow patches evidenced the height of some 2000 m. Mt Karkar at 3900m has a hanging glacier.

Skipper benefited from the new walking poles taking the strain off slightly (?) aged knees.

By late afternoon (1600), below the pass, Cemal and the mule men had set up camp alongside an azure lake with mountain vistas to the horizon. While mules grazed on green pastures, the group gathered for chai (tea) against a melon sky on a cloud white mat below.

Evening meal of hot soup, a stew, salad, bread and fruit ensured all slept well. 6-7 hour day, another pass, lunch alongside a small lake, spectacular views in perfect weather, a steep descent and camp No. 2 in a cirque of peaks feeding a stream through the campsite. Downstream a village herdsman tended cattle ringing bells.

The group enjoyed good camaraderie. All but one had done trekking previously. Three were going on to climb Mt Ararat (5000m). Noa, an Israeli lady had booked the day before departure. A stoic adventuress, she walked in street clothes.

The group all enjoyed an afternoon nap. This was the hardest day. Bodies were adjusting.

Uraz pointed out tomorrows pass, a steep ascent to the base camp for the summit climb.

Excitement; the red coat of chamois goats on a distant pasture. Mule man declares rain tonight as cloud races over the peaks. Spurred to action, Cemal's meal is soon done. A shout; the mule man are dancing. The group joins in circling the gas lamps as cloud clears and stars sparkle. A cultural omen, perhaps for the summit ascent. Skipper sleeps the sleep of kings.

A short day, a briefing by Uzar, in preparation for the summit. Weather is crucial.

At 0300 the camp stirs. Cemal already has tea and bread to fuel the day. Uzar's torch leads the group through the calm mountain cloud. Daybreak, a ruby sun, the cloud lifts to a perfect day. The gods are smiling.

Blue Lake and mirror morning reflections of craggy peaks and snow. The group passes as other climbers remain in their shore side tents.

Cross steep passes, snow field descents, over rock climbs, shelves, slippery climbs and much loose rock, trials and tribulations amongst the varying skills of the group. Uzar and Cemal skillfully, guide the group to the summit. A wonderful day of mountain vistas to the horizon over cloud below that ebbs and rises against an infinity of azure sky.

Much excitement as the group mounts the summit and stand below the red Turkish flag proudly streaming. The group is not alone on the summit. It is a popular climb. A group photo says it all.

An hour passes, and we safely descend to base camp. Cemal goes ahead; the group arrives to a spit sheep roast tended by the mule men (bought from the village below). Celebratory red wine and meal fed satisfaction around a open fire. Five days of perfect weather confirms good fortune in a region known for rain.

A short walk to Oigunlar, the first village. Lunch in the local restaurant of traditional food. The group arrives at Yaylalar (Hevet) village and Aldanay Pension and hot shower.

The village is on the snow line, Cyprus pine forest starts below, green pastures above. Skipper will stay over for five days to enjoy the cool and walk the high pastures, sketch and paint.

The village is a blend of traditional wooden and modern brick homes. A shop provides all needs.

A farewell dinner at the pension sees the group wishing all good fortune on their various travels. They leave on the 0600 bus and Skipper is alone except for wifi available by the pension computer.

Skipper each day ventures out new adventures. Superb walks on cow trails or virgin pasture, sometimes ascending local peaks.

Cemal returns to the pension enroute to join another trekking group. He introduces Skipper to the tea house and the board game Tavla (similar to backgammon) It is Ramadan. Moslem villagers don't eat from 0400 to 2000.

Skipper meets a variety of pension passersby. A senior Turkish mountain guide. He laments his mountains are threatened by "progress:" roads, dams, tourism and ski resorts...

An older Israeli couple who emigrated from Argentina in the first wave of kibbutz builders. They lament the rise of Jewish fundamentalism and youth's easy materialism eating at the socialist heart of kibbutz secular ideals.

An English "Turk" Jonathan (partner Ozlem) of Istanbul, heir in a family business joining a guided trek to Mt Karkar. Family concerns meant they had to return home.

Skipper paints watercolours of the peaks and pastures. "Girls herding" impressionist watercolour of girl, moving the reluctant cows along a forest trail. Small memoranda of superb mountains and villagers.

The dolmus (small bus) left at 0600 down a "road" through a tortuous gorge carved through steep limestone peaks to Barhal and Yusefeli. A trip not for the feint hearted.

Erzumun is a bland Islamic city on the dry steppe. Skipper is at the Oteli Cinar, a clean, pleasant small hotel in the town centre. The airport is on the edge.

Skipper reads a newspaper in a public park. A man walking his two small daughters, remonstrates a group of chatty teenage girls. They leave casting unhappy glances. A group of males chase a dog to great hilarity. They suffer no such fate. It is a mans world, especially in Ramadan.

Sahula is rejoined. The mountains to the sea. A journey complete. Skipper places photos on Facebook.

It is time to leave Fethiye and cruise north.

David.

2nd September, 2009

Passage Report 30

Side, Lycian Coast and Oscar the Rat (RIP)

The comfort zone in marinas is an illusion. Otherwise know as "port rot," it beguiles the rudderless cruiser into becoming a "resident" yacht. The ropes become chains.

Its existence is confirmed when the shackles are off and a passage is underway. Sahula left Alanya with a rare southerly. Mollie (MPS - spinnaker) strained before it. The wall of Mammon, God of tourism lined the coast.

The ancient city and harbour of Side (7 BC) (28 nm from Alanya) ( Roman, Byzantine) occupies a small headland free of high-rise hotels. The Temple of Apollo welcomes the seafarer to the old harbour (crowded with tourist "gullets"). Sahula opts for the calm westerly bay anchorage in 4 metres, close to shore.

The Side ruins provide a layout for a complete town from entrance gate to colonnaded streets, past an agora (market), a large theatre (15,000 ), palaces, churches and houses to the harbour. Aqueducts conveyed fresh water 29 km for public baths, fountains and cisterns. Amongst the ruins, Mammon's hotels, shops, touts and restaurants, beset the scene.

Oscar lives another day. Sticky pads set him free.

The southerly (under 10 knots) persisted, Mollie strained again to Kemer anchorage (well protected, 4-5m among Gullets) in the eastern bay just outside the marina. The town has no mention in Lonely Planet.

It's been a long time since Sahula enjoyed slipping along, sailing in light winds.

Sahula is here to ensure Al (outboard) has enough fuel. Kemer Marina is highly reputed. It looks classy. It would be noisy. The decibels blast out of the surrounding tourist night spots.

The standard recipe for Russian and Scandinavian tourists: massed block multi-storey hotels with crowded swimming pools ringed with recliners; streets of clothes, souvenirs, tour agency, food, shops and endless restaurants; a thin strip of beach lined with rows of colourful recliners and umbrellas; parasail speedboats, Gullets (large traditional motor vessels) crammed occupants dancing to loud pop music; loud dance night clubs sporting laser beams. The original town and community are lost. The natural and cultural environment is irrelevant.

On a crystal clear morning the high, steep, rocky, mountains provide a spectacular backdrop to Kemer.

Oscar lives another day. Avoiding the sticky pads he munched the banana and cheese on the traps.

Along a coastline walled by Mammon to Phaselis. The ancient anchorage crowded with noise pumping Gullets. Sahula again met Hinewai. It's an open, calm weather anchorage.

Phaselis was a maritime city founded (690 BC) on three natural harbours surrounding a defensible headland (similar to Side). Today, a pine forest and undergrowth hides its ruins.

The prominence of the city is highlighted by Hadrian's Gate (a ruin) built to welcome the Emperor as he moved up the colonnaded, white marble, main "street" to the center. A population of some 2-3000 welcomed the various invaders; quid pro quo, to their continuing as traders. Trade ensured Phaselis prosperity and longetivity. The amphitheatre housed some 1000.

Skipper followed the Lycian Way (red paint marks) through the necropolis and pine forest to the nearby highway.

Spectacular Mt. Olympus (Turkish version) (Tahtali Dagi) background Mammon's work. A summit chairlift eases Mammon's journey. Tanya takes Sahula (in company with Hinewai) to ancient Olympus at Cirali Limani (harbour). It is for locals who have ruled against high-rise hotels. It's an open, at times unsettled, anchorage.

Olympus's ruins are in a steep valley through the mountains. Ships berthed in the city centre,, entering by a river now silted up. Forts at the river mouth guarded entry. Cicero described it as a"... city noted for its riches and works of art..." (Guide). An earthquake (129 AD), conquering armies and pirates ensured that only overgrown ruins remain. The ruins are substantial. Evidence of a large city. Similar to Phaselis, the amphitheatre is small. Side theatre accommodated 15000, similar to Aspendos.

Today the crowded beach ignores the ancient city.

Supplies are available in Olympus holiday village or Cirah.

Chimaera's eternal flames, (gas flames emitting at various points over a football field size area), visible from sea, are where Bellerophon, mounted on his winged horse, Pegasus, defeated the Chimaera a mythical fire breathing being, part lion, goat, snake (Lycian Way guide). The Oxford dictionary: "Chimera,-aera" thing ...of fanciful conception"

Skipper (with Hinewai's crew) at night, hired a bus (60 TL from the first ("Olympus") beach restaurant).

Sahula welcomes holidaying locals aboard: Ergan (surgeon), partner (art teacher).

High above Olympus, its citizens sought refuge from pirates. They built the city of Phoinikous (Upper Olympus). Skipper followed the Lycian Way (Guidebook and map) (start at necropolis across river opposite car park, follow red/white track marks) steeply up through closed, then open forest. Allow a day. The reward: escape from Mammon, spectacular views, the ruins of a substantial roman city constructed on a rocky hill top in huge stone blocks containing streets, an agora containing three large, underground, fresh water tanks (25 feet deep) various houses etc.

A cistern at a nearby Shepherd's hut provides water (take purifying tablets). A clear felling forestry operation has damaged the trail at the summit.

Whilst exploring the ruins, daughter Nicola skyped the mobile. Small ancient world.

Cineviz Limani (half an hour from Olympus) is a protected anchorage with no hotels. "Protected" by high rocky mountains and calm, azure, clear water. It is nature at its finest.

Note: Sahula anchored on the inshore side of the bay to avoid the Gullets. An evening breeze (NW) may set a chop entering the bay. To lessen its effect, while closer to the Gullets, it may be best to anchor on the other side with a line ashore. The wind in the bay can vary 360 degrees.

Skipper maneuvers Sahula's first chain anchor with two aft lines ashore. Sahula is here for a few days, Skipper's first stopover anchorage to rest, swim, read and paint (and find Oscar who has nibbled Skipper sea boots and various items but not the traps).

The summer fleet arrives, two large (70 feet), luxury, private motor boats, "Quiet" gullets, private traditional Turkish launches.

For the active, a walk past the restaurant, up the hill on the right to the rock bluff has scenic rewards. Ruins behind the beach and on the bluff's summit, are testimony to an

ancient past. The walk continues past the bluff to the saddle for spectacular views into Sazak Limani and along the precipitous northern coast.

Sazak Limani is an alternative to Cineviz Limani. It is a few minutes on by following the northern coast.. It is an enclosed inlet. A NW'ly sets in a swell. Anchor off hut in northern bay. Gullet's anchor there. It's reported to have poor holding at anchor.

Turkish waters exhibit substantial, plastic pollution. There are few, if any, large fish, some turtles, and few sea birds. Generally, the waters have excellent visibility.

Musketelle arrives. A family, "summer" restaurant offers a meal ashore with superb coastal views. (22TL). The fish is dry, the chicken is tinned. Rating: 3/10.

Skipper works on the Alanya painting.

Oscar hasn't been enticed by "goodies," traps or pads for three days. Skipper hopes Oscar has abandoned ship but...further evidence of nibbled items. The death sentence is passed.

"Hello, are you David," "Yes; I am a friend of Ozkan." The swimmer, Hasan, a SunAir jet pilot and partner Fulya (Antalya University professor, management) are cruising aboard their yacht "Fulyam" from Antalya. Hasan had followed Ozkan's solo circumnavigation in a monthly article in a Turkish yachting magazine. One issue had an article on (and photo of) Skipper assisting Ozkan (typhoid) in Indonesia. A delightful lunch aboard "Fulyam".

Skippers fourth day. Skipper is debriefing from past need to move on, to whimsical. "why move" cruising.

Two colour pencil sketches of coast and mountains.

Oscar lives despite Skipper chasing him around the saloon. Ratsak (poison pellets) is laid - R.I.P but... Oscar shows disdain by, early morning, bouncing across Skipper asleep (almost) in aft cabin.

Every anchorable bay is Gullet prone. Turkey's coastline in summer (July - August) is a holiday camp. Sahula caught the early morning NW'ly (on the aft quarter) to sail to Gokkaya Limani at the entrance to Kokova Roads. It is prime Gullet and charter yacht "country." A plethora of anchorages, each as beautiful as the next.

Sahula bypassed Finike (32 Euros, marina). Budget restraints rule out marinas. Natural anchorages are many. Stores are available at Kokova villages.

Skipper weakens, a delightful young lady. Three handmade bracelets are added to the growing "Daughters Glory" box : shawls (Indonesia) perfume (Oman), perfume (Egypt), Papyrus paintings (Egypt), bracelets (Turkey).

Drinks aboard Kirsten Jane (English world cruisers Keith and Carol). Paddle on Bridget (surfski).

Day for checking anchor winch, "Sikaflex" the dinghy leak (it worked!!), complete colour pencil drawings: Cenevic Limani (High Peaks) (Mt Olympus), Sizak Limani.

Oscar the Rat (RIP??)

Oscar embarked in Alanya due to mooring side to. He had to go: nibbled sea boots, glasses case etc etc. Traps (3), sticky pads (4), Rat poison augured a battle quickly won. Poison was the last resort due to finding the corpse before the aroma.

Oscar gained Skipper's respect. He was aboard for two weeks. Traps were set in various places each night with a varying diet. He nibbled but never set off a trap. Traps were set to high sensitivity.

He stuck to a pad but only fur remained. A night time clatter was assume to be a successful trap. Oscar never again stuck to a pad. Traps out, pads out; there remained the poison pellets.

He would expose himself late at night when Skipper was sitting in the saloon. A night time chase ensued one evening to Oscar's success.

Skipper locked the doors to isolate his roaming. Especially to Skipper's bunk in the aft cabin. He was capable of entering seemingly impossible holes. Skipper awoke to Oscar bounding across the aft cabin bunk. Was it a nightmare?? He chewed on army rations in a "closed" locker and chewed damp kitchen pads. He seems able to enter wherever the entry hole is more than a mere centimeter, maybe less.

Finally (??) a dinner of poison pellets was served. Oscar ate two dessertspoons full. When does he expire? The next night he chewed a damp kitchen pad. The next a loaf of bread. His droppings still abound. Finally he will expire. Then the search for the body before decomposition is critical. It is the Turkish summer hot, humid. Skipper's shelves plans to walk part of the Lycian way.

Advice: Immediately, set about locating Oscar. After the first day, set the full weaponry: traps, pads and poison pellets. Poison takes a 3-5 days to be effective. It is critical to avoid damage. A rat WILL chew rubber and foam (sea boots!!) and chomp through plastic to food (army rations). He will only experience a weapon once. A sticky pad is useless once "used." Traps didn't work. After four days he continued the "terror." Searches of likely "graves" revealed nothing. It is likely the only remains will be "smelled" out. While Oscar threatened any plastic water hose, he could sink the boat. Valves were turned off. Skipper was required to be around in case.

Graves abounded in ancient Teimussa. Ucagiz, Kokova Roads, is built over some of the city.

Kokova is a "no development" area so the old homes, winding streets (full of small tourist shops) give considerable character.. There is a well stocked market, and a fishing (combined (remarkably well equipped) chandlery) shop. Daily buses connect the town to Kas and Demre.

Lycia continued the ancient world's obsession with afterlife. Rock heavy sarcophagi litter the city outskirts. Everyone is damaged by nature or sacked for riches.

Skipper has wi-fi access at the Onur restaurant and pension (Jacqueline, Onur). Pleasant waterfront location. Jacqueline speaks fluent English. She is a mine of information.

Kale Koy (dinghy ride from Ucagiz ) means castle. It is classic ancient village of ancient houses and winding streets. It occupies the site of Simena. The castle dominates the town, offering views over Kokova Roads. It's an ideal protected port. Restaurants await the tourist droves. It is assessable only by boat.

Sarcophagi lay littered in the background hills. One rests, lonely in water, just off the village.

Lycian way trekking plans are shelved till autumn (Sept-Oct). It is too hot and the Oscar threat remains. Sahula will cruise to Fethiye and Gocek.

Next Report Kokova to Marmaris.

Best

David

Turkey mobile:0539 593 85 32

No email aboard. For contact: Skype the mobile.