Passage Report No. 7
Sv Sahula
Brisbane to Townsville
The journey has begun; the destination is north to Darwin, Asia and Europe. All things start small.
Sahula departed Moreton Bay marina, stopping overnight in the Brisbane River to allow a visit to a chandlery.
As providence would have it, the anchorage included Melric 11, Dave and Fran from NZ, who Sahula met when anchored preparatory to crossing the Wide Bay Bar enroute south from Townsville. Now, they also were heading north to again cross the Bar so we sailed again in convoy before a fresh southerly, destination Double Island Point, an overnight sail away.
The yachts rounded Double Island Point and anchored in Wide Bay soon after midnight in inky black conditions. Always challenging as the anchorage is just off a surf beach.
Sahula had endured a voyage of twisting, gyrating and rolling amongst the confused and toppling waves. A night to forget, endured with the anticipation of crossing the Wide Bay Bar next morning to the welcome calmness of the Sandy Straits alongside Fraser Island.
It was not to be, for three days a low off the coast held the strong southerly in place, making for dangerous conditions on the Bar. The Coast Guard counseled that unless a 100 footer. It was wise to remain at anchor. Time passed pleasantly with visits between yachts. This coast is spectacular with high cliffs of "coloured sands" and large flocks of seabirds fished across the bay. Sahula shared it with a fleet of five yachts and resting fishing boats.
However, the idyll was soon to change. Electrical fumes filled the main cabin. It seemed incomprehensible, a new engine, new electrics, incredulously the fumes were real and fumes presuppose fire, the sea-persons worst nightmare.
A quick check found the source and a call to Melric 11 soon had Dave applying his expertise to a resolution. It seems the Wind Generator power generation had overloaded the wiring. A disaster was averted, lady luck continued to shine.
It highlighted the unique, selfless camaraderie amongst those called to the sea. It can't be understated how important it is to cruising. It is not only that it resolves a problem but that it keeps the many problems from being overwhelming and thus psychologically threatening to the voyage. Seeming disasters are kept at the level of challenges. It is said, cruising is doing maintenance in beautiful places.
It happened again, when Sahula joined the South Pacific ham operators, "Comedy Net." Sahula's VHF radio was failing to hold a frequency. The problem was canvassed over the Net and numerous Ham radio operators sought a solution which subsequently resolved the problem.
The seemingly isolated life at sea is, in fact, an intricate web of global friends.
Finally, the sea conditions abated and Sahula approached the Bar. "Bar Crossing" holds many fears. Bars, seeming passable, can spawn rogue waves that can damage, even capsize, passing yachts especially when approaching from the sea. It is quite difficult to assess the Bar's condition when viewing the back of the rolling waves. So all precautions are taken to prepare the yacht. It may be a surfeit of concern, worry and tension is necessary to feed the gods but history is littered with the unwary.
Sahula edged in, slowly following a course set by waypoints from the Coast Guard. Waves curled around her. One broke immediately astern surfing her forward, Tanya throttled back, and soon to great relief she entered the calm waters of the Sandy Straits.
She and Melric 11 enjoyed good sailing through the Straits to respective anchorages and to their voyages. Melric 11 was destined for the South Pacific, Philippines and Asia...
Sahula left the Straits for Bundaberg; a day sail away. Three days in Bundaberg had two purposes, one to enjoy friends, Fred and Lesley's company, two to "fix" the electrical panel. The former included dinner with Paul and Liz, who recently traversed the North West Passage (through the Canadian Arctic) in their aptly named steel12 metre sloop, "Fine Tolerance." They're now planning a Southern Ocean passage to Patagonia. Sahula left them with some envy.
For now Sahula was heading in the opposite direction, experiencing her first day in the northern balmy tropics. It was time to enhance the tan enroute to Pancake Creek.
It was also the first remote, untouched natural anchorage since leaving Sydney. It was spiritual to stand again under the swirling seahawks, smell the sweet forest, walk beaches swept by planet moved tides. A languid swim and sundowners against the ruby red sunset closed the day, making way for the stars.
Leaving an idyll is not easy. The waiting fleet off the port of Gladstone, of collier iron mammoths spelt reality.
Cape Capricorn passed by and so did three large white fuel guzzling motor cruisers. To some it is the arrival not the journey. Their contrast was stark to Sahula powered by wind and sun, in a sustainable symphony with the sea, swell and waves.
Keppel Island soon filled the glorious sunset. Keppel is one of Sahula's favourite places but the buffeting southerly, an unsettled anchorage and many sheltering yachts saw her leave the next morning for Pearl Bay. Not a soul waved goodbye!
After a 25 to 30 knot rolling, rocking, swell surfing sleigh ride, Sahula entered a place described by Alan Lucas ("Cruising the Coral Coast") as "... one of the prettiest anchorages on the coast, being surrounded by high step densely wooded hills and fringed by a superb hard sand beach..."
The compensation for leaving Keppel was Sahula had this beauty and the sunset over distant mountains, to herself.
As she had the wild beauty of this coast and the next anchorage at Cape Townsend. Well almost, to her amazement she passed a large sailing catamaran motoring south. Theirs was not an exciting "sleigh ride." I waved them well.
There are times when a place surpasses expectations. After a long day sailing past memories (Sahula spent a week here in 2006) on Marble Island and through the Lola Mantes Pass (between Marble and Hunter Islands), avoiding these waters sandbanks, shoals, rocky outcrops and strong currents, she rounded, finally, Curlew Island's headland.
It was an awesome sight. A calm, sweeping bay, lined by a wide golden beach and wooded hills all dominated by a spectacular, massive, rock bluff. It dominated this remote place, silent and iconic. Oddly, but thankfully, it got no more than a mention ("knob hill") in the Cruising Guide. Sahula will be here for three days. A beach walk disturbed two chattering guardian curlews.
A purpose of the few days here is to paint "plein air." The first work, "Sacred Mountain," is of the bluff. A climb of the bluff gave spectacular views to the surrounding islands. The second work, "Three brushes and a butterfly from the Sacred Mountain" takes in this view through life on the summit.
A further short bush climb to the base of the "mountain" revealed, under an overhang, a large shell midden. It was an eerie feeling to know that for so long, so long ago, people lived at this place, eating and sleeping. It is testimony to their seafaring skills and marine craft. The summit view into a small bay at low tide also seemed to reveal rock formations denoting fish traps.
Reality was restored when Sahula moored in Mackay marina to visit friends and restock for the final leg to Townsville.
That "leg" was a slow one. The strong Southerly deserted Sahula. Despite the MPS (like a spinnaker) on one side and the headsail poled out on the other, there was not enough wind. So "Tanya" took Sahula through the Whitsundays and onto the Gloucester Passage, Bowen and the anchorage at Cape Upstart. Sahula was in home waters.
"Home waters" had Sahula sailing close to Alva Beach and through many memories. These waters, this coast, are where the skipper, a carefree youth, sailed dinghies, explored sandhills, creeks, endless sunfilled days of family, friends and adventure from the beach hut to Cape Bowling Green.
Anchorage off Cape Bowling Green was aborted after trawlers swarmed nearby and Sahula by midnight was safely off Cape Cleveland and next morning was tied up Townsville's marina. The trip was over. Sahula was in her home port.
Ten days of preparation would next see Sahula heading to Cairns via Cardwell and then onto Darwin for the Indonesian yacht rally.
Best
David
Sv Sahula
Townsville
-----------------------------------------------
Passage Report No. 7
Sv Sahula
Brisbane to Townsville
The journey has begun; the destination is north to Darwin, Asia and Europe. All things start small.
Sahula departed Moreton Bay marina, stopping overnight in the Brisbane River to allow a visit to a chandlery.
As providence would have it, the anchorage included Melric 11, Dave and Fran from NZ, who Sahula met when anchored preparatory to crossing the Wide Bay Bar enroute south from Townsville. Now, they also were heading north to again cross the Bar so we sailed again in convoy before a fresh southerly, destination Double Island Point, an overnight sail away.
The yachts rounded Double Island Point and anchored in Wide Bay soon after midnight in inky black conditions. Always challenging as the anchorage is just off a surf beach.
Sahula had endured a voyage of twisting, gyrating and rolling amongst the confused and toppling waves. A night to forget, endured with the anticipation of crossing the Wide Bay Bar next morning to the welcome calmness of the Sandy Straits alongside Fraser Island.
It was not to be, for three days a low off the coast held the strong southerly in place, making for dangerous conditions on the Bar. The Coast Guard counseled that unless a 100 footer. It was wise to remain at anchor. Time passed pleasantly with visits between yachts. This coast is spectacular with high cliffs of "coloured sands" and large flocks of seabirds fished across the bay. Sahula shared it with a fleet of five yachts and resting fishing boats.
However, the idyll was soon to change. Electrical fumes filled the main cabin. It seemed incomprehensible, a new engine, new electrics, incredulously the fumes were real and fumes presuppose fire, the sea-persons worst nightmare.
A quick check found the source and a call to Melric 11 soon had Dave applying his expertise to a resolution. It seems the Wind Generator power generation had overloaded the wiring. A disaster was averted, lady luck continued to shine.
It highlighted the unique, selfless camaraderie amongst those called to the sea. It can't be understated how important it is to cruising. It is not only that it resolves a problem but that it keeps the many problems from being overwhelming and thus psychologically threatening to the voyage. Seeming disasters are kept at the level of challenges. It is said, cruising is doing maintenance in beautiful places.
It happened again, when Sahula joined the South Pacific ham operators, "Comedy Net." Sahula's VHF radio was failing to hold a frequency. The problem was canvassed over the Net and numerous Ham radio operators sought a solution which subsequently resolved the problem.
The seemingly isolated life at sea is, in fact, an intricate web of global friends.
Finally, the sea conditions abated and Sahula approached the Bar. "Bar Crossing" holds many fears. Bars, seeming passable, can spawn rogue waves that can damage, even capsize, passing yachts especially when approaching from the sea. It is quite difficult to assess the Bar's condition when viewing the back of the rolling waves. So all precautions are taken to prepare the yacht. It may be a surfeit of concern, worry and tension is necessary to feed the gods but history is littered with the unwary.
Sahula edged in, slowly following a course set by waypoints from the Coast Guard. Waves curled around her. One broke immediately astern surfing her forward, Tanya throttled back, and soon to great relief she entered the calm waters of the Sandy Straits.
She and Melric 11 enjoyed good sailing through the Straits to respective anchorages and to their voyages. Melric 11 was destined for the South Pacific, Philippines and Asia...
Sahula left the Straits for Bundaberg; a day sail away. Three days in Bundaberg had two purposes, one to enjoy friends, Fred and Lesley's company, two to "fix" the electrical panel. The former included dinner with Paul and Liz, who recently traversed the North West Passage (through the Canadian Arctic) in their aptly named steel12 metre sloop, "Fine Tolerance." They're now planning a Southern Ocean passage to Patagonia. Sahula left them with some envy.
For now Sahula was heading in the opposite direction, experiencing her first day in the northern balmy tropics. It was time to enhance the tan enroute to Pancake Creek.
It was also the first remote, untouched natural anchorage since leaving Sydney. It was spiritual to stand again under the swirling seahawks, smell the sweet forest, walk beaches swept by planet moved tides. A languid swim and sundowners against the ruby red sunset closed the day, making way for the stars.
Leaving an idyll is not easy. The waiting fleet off the port of Gladstone, of collier iron mammoths spelt reality.
Cape Capricorn passed by and so did three large white fuel guzzling motor cruisers. To some it is the arrival not the journey. Their contrast was stark to Sahula powered by wind and sun, in a sustainable symphony with the sea, swell and waves.
Keppel Island soon filled the glorious sunset. Keppel is one of Sahula's favourite places but the buffeting southerly, an unsettled anchorage and many sheltering yachts saw her leave the next morning for Pearl Bay. Not a soul waved goodbye!
After a 25 to 30 knot rolling, rocking, swell surfing sleigh ride, Sahula entered a place described by Alan Lucas ("Cruising the Coral Coast") as "... one of the prettiest anchorages on the coast, being surrounded by high step densely wooded hills and fringed by a superb hard sand beach..."
The compensation for leaving Keppel was Sahula had this beauty and the sunset over distant mountains, to herself.
As she had the wild beauty of this coast and the next anchorage at Cape Townsend. Well almost, to her amazement she passed a large sailing catamaran motoring south. Theirs was not an exciting "sleigh ride." I waved them well.
There are times when a place surpasses expectations. After a long day sailing past memories (Sahula spent a week here in 2006) on Marble Island and through the Lola Mantes Pass (between Marble and Hunter Islands), avoiding these waters sandbanks, shoals, rocky outcrops and strong currents, she rounded, finally, Curlew Island's headland.
It was an awesome sight. A calm, sweeping bay, lined by a wide golden beach and wooded hills all dominated by a spectacular, massive, rock bluff. It dominated this remote place, silent and iconic. Oddly, but thankfully, it got no more than a mention ("knob hill") in the Cruising Guide. Sahula will be here for three days. A beach walk disturbed two chattering guardian curlews.
A purpose of the few days here is to paint "plein air." The first work, "Sacred Mountain," is of the bluff. A climb of the bluff gave spectacular views to the surrounding islands. The second work, "Three brushes and a butterfly from the Sacred Mountain" takes in this view through life on the summit.
A further short bush climb to the base of the "mountain" revealed, under an overhang, a large shell midden. It was an eerie feeling to know that for so long, so long ago, people lived at this place, eating and sleeping. It is testimony to their seafaring skills and marine craft. The summit view into a small bay at low tide also seemed to reveal rock formations denoting fish traps.
Reality was restored when Sahula moored in Mackay marina to visit friends and restock for the final leg to Townsville.
That "leg" was a slow one. The strong Southerly deserted Sahula. Despite the MPS (like a spinnaker) on one side and the headsail poled out on the other, there was not enough wind. So "Tanya" took Sahula through the Whitsundays and onto the Gloucester Passage, Bowen and the anchorage at Cape Upstart. Sahula was in home waters.
"Home waters" had Sahula sailing close to Alva Beach and through many memories. These waters, this coast, are where the skipper, a carefree youth, sailed dinghies, explored sandhills, creeks, endless sunfilled days of family, friends and adventure from the beach hut to Cape Bowling Green.
Anchorage off Cape Bowling Green was aborted after trawlers swarmed nearby and Sahula by midnight was safely off Cape Cleveland and next morning was tied up Townsville's marina. The trip was over. Sahula was in her home port.
Ten days of preparation would next see Sahula heading to Cairns via Cardwell and then onto Darwin for the Indonesian yacht rally.
Best
David
Sv Sahula
Townsville
-----------------------------------------------
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