Passage Report #11

Passage Report No 11

Sahula

Gove to Darwin

It's called the Hole in the Wall or more aptly the Gugari Rip. It's a narrow (some 50 metres), its deep and it squeezes massive volumes of tidal water between the rock cliffs of Wessels Islands, Guluwuru Island and Raragala Island. It's spoken of in awe.

Leaving Gove is in anticipation of the Rip. Specific guidance is given at the Gove Yacht Club. Vessels pass Cape Wilberforce and overnight at Wigram Island ready to transit the next day, on the top of high tide or during the first hour of the ebb.

Sahula arrived in company of two other yachts. She was the first to enter. Conditions were not as per "guidance". The Rip was some 6 knots or more in flood. Whirlpools and upwelling met Sahula threatening to turn her to the rock walls on either side... This was not "slack" water. Sails were insufficient, Tanya went into action, driving Sahula, twisting and turning, the mile to the end.

Selene of Norway was to transit tomorrow. We radioed that the "guidance" was incorrect. The next day 9 yachts passed through benefiting from Sabula's advice.

We'd earned a rest in Guruliya Bay an hour west of the Rip. A lovely place of blue water, white beaches and barren rock island. Sahula stayed two nights. The fleet came and went.

We "bushwalked" inland finding many "arranged stone circles." Lorraine "discovered" under spectacularly eroded coastal sandstone cliffs, numerous ancient hand "splattering" and paintings of fish, and human forms. Art marked time.

Sahula was now to pass over the "top" to Darwin in a series of day sails along the coast. There are two routes over the "Top"; one involves an offshore overnight passage. Sahula in post-Gulf mode was not attracted to that option. The "coastal" option is more risky. It involves day passages through shallow, shoal strewn, uncharted waters. Sahula opted for the adventure in calm water.

The first passage was to Gunawa Point bay on Elcho Island, a 7 hour sail.

The second was to Cape Stewart passing cautiously through a narrow passage between the Crocodile Islands. "Cautiously" because the chart proclaimed large areas as "uncharted" or containing shoals as "Rept 1900." (or thereabouts). The depth sounder is the sailor's best friend.

Each evening the day's adventure is muted by "sundowners" (wine and nibbles) against a spectacular sunset.

As well it was beautiful sailing with the ESE'ly coming from the land. The azure sea was calm, wind 15 -20 knots.

To cap it all, the new "Gove" lure secured a large tuna for dinner ('s). The deck was covered in blood before the fight was won. On a moving deck, just lifting aboard the luckless fish was a battle, let alone filleting it. Protein was the reward.

Each day between 0800 - 0900 (Darwin time) the Darwin Net (6516) provides contact with other vessels on passage across the "Top" and handy advice from their experiences. It will run throughout the Indonesian Rally.

Sahula's skipper has agreed to be a Net coordinator next week. A new experience and contribution to a marvelous facility run by yachties. There are many "nets" for particular marine areas that keep yachts in contact e.g. Coral Sea "Sheila Net" on 8161.

A "long day" (12 hours) sailing found secure anchorage at Cape Stewart then another to Mullet Bay, North Goulburn Island.

The latter passage involved Sahula almost becalmed and being swept to the rocks and shoals off Braithwaite Point. A late afternoon breeze and "Mollie" (MPS) kept water under the keel. However, the day extended to a moonless, inky night sail through the passage between the Goulburn Islands. Night sailing is not for the feint hearted in these waters. No actual sighting was made of the islands. Sahula was doing 8 knots with the tide. At midnight, grateful for the radar and GPS digital charts, Sahula anchored in Mullet Bay.

The Cape was on the Aboriginal Lands permit, but not Mullet Bay. It's exclusion raised the issue of "going ashore." Substantial fines ($2000) apply to offenders. Some crews proudly refused to get a permit, an act of "white" defiance. Others obtained a permit for the places they'd visit. This exercise requires pre-planning and time as the consent is required of each relevant Traditional Owner."

Sahula obtained a permit at Gove under new fast tracked arrangements for yachts in transit across the "Top." However, it was limited in scope. It meant in many places the crew was yacht bound.

It's impossible not to feel the aboriginality of this region. Arnhem land seemed to be the very cultural font. However, it was never more so than when Sahula anchored in Bowen Strait with Croker Island bordering one side.

Many years ago, the skipper met Mary Yarmirr, an elder of Croker Island's people. This tall, regal lady was leading the High Court battle for legal recognition over the waters surrounding her peoples land. The people won only limited rights to conduct their cultural activities not full possession. The low, flat, unimposing Croker Island, a few meters off Sabula's bow, these waters and the name "Yarmirr", became a legal artifact to be studied by generations of law students.

Morning had Sahula sailing to Port Essington. In contrast to the aboriginality, this "port" sort to establish a different culture, that of Europe. A beautiful harbour, Sahula sailed through it to the National Parks centre at Black Point and then onto the inappropriately named "Berke\ey Bay". She was there with eleven other, Rally bound, yachts.

Port Essington is proof of "mad dogs and Englishmen...." In 1838 a settlement, aptly named "Victoria," was established to defend the realm on the dry rock hard earth of Minto Head. A more pitiless place, one could not imagine for the overdressed English to "...go out in the midday (or any) sun." Yet there they built in "ironstone" blocks a Government House, a hospital, a wharf, soldier's quarters and homes. A little England in the heat and desolation. To atone for the "madness" some 50 souls required disturbing of that "iron" soil.

After a decade "Victoria" took "her" toll. The occupants work was simply abandoned to history.

Four days passed pleasantly in Berkeley Bay. Of particular interest to the foreign yachts were the crocodiles in the nearby creek. The skipper sighted a 5 meter monster. One was found basking on the beach. Swimming is a risky activity. It's reported they are also predisposed to inflatable dinghies, particularly small ones like "Zod," Sahula's link to shore. Olive (the 2hp outboard) was exercised at top speed. An act of delusion.

An azure sea, a blue, clear cobalt sky, a fair wind and white sails of the fleet all on coarse for Darwin from Cape Don. A day enhancing the myth of sailing. Rarely is it all so beautiful. A perfect occasion for photography. Kayitsiz III (Turkish yacht) and Sahula exchanged photographers as the boats sailed alongside flying headsails. Later with "Galiano" (NZ), Sahula exchanged photos of our spinnakers drawing.

When finally the wind died, Tanya took Sahula with Galiano and Kayitsiz III to anchor behind Cape Hotham. We were in no hurry to arrive in the city. We toasted the sunset aboard Galiano.

A light ESE'ly, an early start, and the fleet, next day, made good time through the Clarence Strait to Darwin. Sahula had arrived. She anchored in Fanny Bay with some hundred yachts. A spectacular sight.

An invitation to dine aboard the lovely 47 footer Pampero capped a marvelous sail from Gove.

So now two weeks of city life, rest, and valiant attempts to shorten the ever present list of things to do. Then on Saturday, 26th July, a short two weeks, Sahula sails out for her first foray into international waters to Kupang, West Timor in Indonesia.

It's marvelous to contemplate this amazing potpourri of Rally sailors. They range from an eighth month old baby, young children to twenties to retirees. They're aboard big luxury yachts to 28 footer. The average length is 42 feet. They're from Australia, New Zealand, Canada, USA, Austria, Switzerland, France, Germany, Netherlands, Turkey, South Africa, Japan and the United Kingdom. They're subsistence to wealthy, aboard mono hulls or multihulls, homemade to classy professional.

All set out in a mass fleet start on Saturday week for some four days sail across the Timor Sea to Kupang. There is a buzz afloat in Fanny Bay.

Life is never dull.

Best

David

Sv Sahula