Passage Report 23

Phuket, Thailand, to Cochin, India

January, 2009

There is a time in life when all before is preparation for the present. Sahula has checked out of customs, immigration and the harbour master. It is Cochin, India next anchorage. Cochin is some 12 days voyaging across the Bay of Bengal in the northern Indian Ocean. It will be Skipper's, Lorraine (crew) and Sahula's, first long ocean passage.

The "grib file" received off Winlink (High Frequency radio internet system open to Ham radio operators) forecasts 10-15 knot, NE'ly winds. It is operated by the USA. It provides a 72 hour weather forecast chart for any part of the world. The Indian Weather Bureau report is similar.

The forecast is favourable. There is a full moon. Stores are aboard, last minute farewells. No more excuses. A family of twin daughters (aged 10) and parents blithely set sail last week.

Skipper has decided to not go via the Andaman Islands as time is too short to stay over there. Sahula is now a participant in the Vasco da Gama Rally from Cochin, Oman, Red Sea and Turkey... The Rally sets sail from Cochin on the 25th January. A fast sail will be needed to make this date. If it is unattainable Sahula will join in Salalah, Oman in late February.

Nai Harn Bay, a few miles from Ao Chalong is first stop to do final preparations. These include hull cleaning, decks cleared of Bridgett (surfski) and Zod (inflatable) and resting physically and psychologically. Nadezdha, a day ahead, calls in to advise that conditions are fair at sea.

It's blowing 15-20 knots, time to leave. Blue mountains, to gray, to a universe of horizons. Sahula pranced across the calm sea to a grinding halt. The wind dropped to 3-4 knots. Sahula wallowed, sails flapping. Even Mollie (spinnaker) couldn't raise the log. The "fast passage" seemed to fade. Tanya (engine) stood tantalizingly a switch away, an impossible dream. It is 1247 nm to Cochin. Ocean passages are driven by the elements.

Not only Sahula is at the behest of the elements, Sandra, the swallow, seeks refuge aboard. She circles the boat planning her landing. She's exhausted after a long flight from only she knows where. Sahula is 80 nm from Thailand and 200 nm from the Nicobar Islands. The doghouse accommodation finds her instantly asleep.

A full moon, silvery sea and increased breeze, raise morale. The first night at sea is always difficult. Sleep is nigh on impossible. Experienced cruisers proffer the third day as heralding the best of a long passage. Sundowners, and time to dine, crew concocts a meal for royals.

At midnight with headsails wing on wing and main driving her on, skips to 6 knots. A day of contrasts. A new Winlink "grib" weather report confirms good winds.

The ocean is a dynamic place. Sahula in mid-ocean sails through an area of confused, tumbling sea then into calm. Skipper surmises the cause as upwelling from deep below.

From the valleys, mountains, from the peaks, a desert is the ocean sailor's constant vista.

Dolphins (small, black, grey bibs) dance in the waves, gamboling, leaping meters into the air before streaking alongside Sahula.

Sandra, the swallow succumbed to her journey. Full tributes were paid before committing her to the sea.

Goodbye Andaman Sea, hello Bay of Bengal. Sahula scudded though the Sombero Channel past Meroa Island in the Nicobars. There could be no stopping. The Nicobars, an Indian territory, are off limits to cruising yachts.

It warranted a second look. There against the islands shore, listing, rested a large inter-island passenger, car ferry. It seemed impossible that such a vessel could be a recent wreck in such a place.

Headsail partly furled and poled out with full main in 15-20 knots, Sahula began the long haul to Sri Lanka some 5 days and 784 nm distant.

At midnight, wind to 21 knots, seas rising, Skipper (in safety harness) with Crew on the helm, put two reefs in the main. Crew and Tanya (engine) put the bow to the waves. Skipper, at the mast, pulled down the main to two reefs, hooked in the cringle and winched in the boom end of the mainsail. Sahula was happier albeit slower. Skipper was wet.

At 0900 (local Thai time) each day, Sahula provides her position, weather and "alls well" report to the Indian Ocean Net (4039 frequency). Some 20 yachts call in on their passages across from Thailand to Sri Lanka (Galle), Maldives or Cochin. The Net is run by Keith on Kirsten Jane while enroute to the Maldives. A participant has "shredded" their headsail. The Net provides information on a sail maker in Galle (Windsor Flags and Sails).

Sahula is in constant email contact with family and friends through Winlink. Isolation is visually a horizon.

Watches are listed by Crew. It is a guide only as Skipper, at any time, is required on deck. Generally, the list is three hours on by night and half days. Crew works the galley, Skipper handles sailing, cajoling, caressing, and maintaining Sahula and her myriad parts. Three hour watches did not give enough sleep. Now doing four hour night watches. Six hours sleep seems to optimum to ensure perky crew.

In the dark of the night, the sounds of waves tumbling, waves on hull, Arial's (wind vane steering) high pitched sigh, all seem loud, close and at times, threatening. Plunging on into inky darkness is not for the feint hearted. Welcome to the moon. Skipper stands on the after deck, phosphorescence lights the parted waters, the night sky is a blaze of stars and planets.

Barack Obama, "Audacity of Hope," a blueprint to a presidency, is enjoyed by Skipper. Well written and thought provoking. Christopher Kremmer, "The Carpet Wars" is next. It unfolds the intricacies of the Islamic world. Reading and time to do so is a sailor's delight. Crew has also sewn new colourful, cockpit cushion covers. There has been no news of the world since departure.

There is healthy mental cleansing (or happy ignorance) in being so isolated for so long.

Sahula has done on average, 150 nm a day. An average of 6.25 knots. Arial (self steering) has been in charge all day and most nights. Sails have been in the same mode for a week. They're winched in or out depending on wind strength and Arial's ability to keep to course..

Wind routine settles in. Midnight, winds increase to 20-23 knots, morning winds ease to midday when 15-17 knots. Seas vary from steep and tumbling to a sharp swell. Sahula's motion is twisting, rolling to a calm slide creating the sailor's gait.

On the 8th Day, Sahula is off the Sri Lankan coast. Shipping has increased, seabirds dive and circle, butterfly seeks refuge. Crew celebrates Sahula's first ocean passage with wine and biscuits.

Skipper must be in the groove as a coloured pencil sketch of the sea is underway. One of the difficult topics to draw or paint is the sea. It has no constancy, shape or being. Continual observation over the passage finally resolved its basic shape. It gives great satisfaction to evolve a work in a medium that allows the creative juices on a moving platform.

Four days to go to Cochin.

Sri Lanka slips into the night. Fishing boats like fireflies. By day as colourful as Indonesia and Asia. It would be possible to know location by the design and colour of the local fishing boats. In every location the fishing boats are traditional one design.

"Mannar" must mean "angry." Sahula's crossing started in near perfect conditions, then rapidly increased to a constant 18 knots on a moderate sea. Halfway and the illusion was gone. 25-35 knots winds swept the tops to waterfalls. Coming from the north they broke beam on and roared across the deck. Doghouse, plastic cockpit covers, lee clothes kept a dry crew. Double reefed main, "handkerchief" furled Yankee drove Sahula, rising to the occasion, as she lopped over and, at times, through them dispensing

confidence in her abilities. Reminisces of the similar, Gulf of Carpentaria crossing.

Morning dawned with gale conditions that quickly abated over the Wedge Bank along the Indian coast.

Sahula, by contrast, entered ideal sailing conditions in the lee of the coast: fine day, calm seas and 10-15 knot NE'lies. Again Indian locals in fishing boats dotted the evening like a million fireflies.

Crew relaxed and rested feeling the effects of a Mannar crossing.

Sahula arrived in Cochin in the evening of Wednesday, 21st January. Her first ocean passage (10 days, 11 - 21st January.) had successfully passed by. Many lessons learned and the maintenance list added to. Each passage gives experience and lessons. It is a very good life.

Crew had done well. Fresh food had lasted to arrival. Skipper is grateful for her company.

Crew will be departing in Cochin for a month's holiday in India and then back to Melbourne to sustain the mortgage.. Stanley from NZ is crew for the passage to Turkey. His wife joins up in Egypt. Stanley is a "refugee" from a busy medical practice in Invercargill, South Island.

Sahula will join the Vasco da Gama Rally from Cochin to Alanya, Turkey. She will sail in a fleet of some 16 yachts. A number of them are from the Indonesian Rally.

The Rally takes Sahula to Oman, through "pirate alley" off Somalia, Yemen and into the Red Sea to the Suez Canal to Cyprus and Turkey. It finishes on the 5th May 2009.

Now for a well earned R&R in Cochin.

David

Sv Sahula