Passage Report #27

Suakin, Sudan, to Suakin

Medical needs do arise, in spite of the healthy lifestyle. Cruisers are largely "post war babies.". Peter (Sandpiper, UK) requires hospitalization for spinal spasms. Sudanese hospitality ensures he is soon treated by Sudan's Chief Surgeon. It's a common tale that westerners are given special access to excellent medical facilities in the poorest countries. Locally, cost reserves it for the few.

Skipper resolves to buy a self steering system (Raymarine autohelm ST2000) that works with Arial (Aries wind vane). It is commended by experienced cruisers and simple to install. Sahula's Sydney "agent," Peter offers to organize sending it by DHL to Port Sudan for arrival on Thursday. Skipper visits yachts using it, for advice.

Every cruiser needs an "Agent." A provider, supporter, advisor at "home." Peter, in Sydney, world cruiser, "Illywhacker" owner, good friend, smoothes Sahula's inevitable rough patches. The challenges are met, the insolvable, resolvable, the lows returned to highs.

Taj is an elder, a wise man of metal in a street of metal and car repair workshops. He is recommended as Mr. Fixit, by Mohammed. Tanya needed an in-line filter before the fuel pump. Taj soon had it. He appraised the disintegrated plastic "Plastimo" cog, "call me Monday." He'd try to replicate it in aluminum. Sudanese hospitality filled time. A passing parade of locals ensured much tea, discussion and an evening meal on waste plate metal table and old chairs.

Discussion drifts over Sudan's political situation, thoughts on the Presidents ICC indictment, appropriateness of democracy, military and security forces role, their corruption of government and industry, the Chinese model, hope in education - a familiar pattern in the developing world, born of deep frustration.

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Taj (age 65) has seven children (thirties to teenage). Two sons work in the business. Sudanese families are large; "There are many wars." Retirement isn't considered.

If freedom is choice, then happiness in poverty measures only the human spirit in adversity. There is much human spirit in Sudan. Youths seeks opportunities overseas. Women, young children are rarely seen in the sea of white robed males on "Arab Street." White signifies prosperity. Suakin "white" is blotted and edged in the yellow of a harder life.

Cruiser's love their pets. Many have a cat or dog or two. Animals restrict destinations and limit a global cruise. Human entry requirements are problem enough. Australian restrictions are well known.

24 yachts shelter in Suakin. More arrive each day. All will leave when winds abate.

Some buy plastic fantastics and sail off in retirement to a plastic dream global cruise. Others younger, buy or build and embark, on a "shoe-string", on adventures that would make the "dreamers" give up long ago. Umberto (solo) and Finn friends are of the latter. They came to dinner aboard Sahula. They live by their wits, wisdom and initiative. They're relaxed, unstressed individuals, who had careers, who owe little to the real world. They're heading home after decades.

Umberto, trades (viagra, TV sets, anything) to support himself, his dog and his 23 foot sloop, Calefel. He relates meeting, inter alia, women, Phillipino "rebels," stone age Papuan natives and military, police - bureaucracy. Finland friends built there lovely Nordic gaffer, "Liv," sailing to Japan, Korea and return. They wet Skipper's appetite for sailing in Scandinavia, the Baltic, White Russia to the Black Sea.

Life long friendships are made in Sahula's cosy saloon.

A problem is taken on from various angles. One is to fix the equipment another is to add a crew. "Crew - wanted." was attached at the dinghy wharf. It was read by excited locals. A candidate, a young fisherman, was keen; "Yes, he had experience (on fishing boats only); yes, he had sailed the coast (to a mersa a few miles distant), yes he spoke English (could his friend interpret); did he have money (no, he expected to be paid "A million pounds."); how would he return to Suakin (he expected a paid ticket); what food did he expect (what ever was supplied), did he have a passport and visa to Egypt (Yes, he could get these in two days - "Sudan's no good.Australia."). The sign was changed; "English speaking; yacht experience required."

The yachts have supplied no candidates.

The Northerly abated, the fleet left; only Sahula remains. Oskan, the solo Turk (Indonesian Rally) is due. Sahula may sail with Kayitsiz III to Turkey. Sailing solo doesn't favour extended overnight passages... After a day, another fleet comes in.

The autohelm autopilot arrives via DHL, one day early. Fitting is planned for a day takes three days. Along the way other repairs come to light. Drilling through steel plate with a hand drill proves problematic.

Time out as a stomach bug strikes for a day. Lows and highs.

Skipper's advised the Course Master's problem may be worn brushes on the hydraulic motor. If only it is so simple. The electronics remain a mystery. Lesson: Equipment should have international service agents.

The skies above ancient Suakin soar with eagles. Some are not satisfied with ancient ruins; they seek more modern "apartments." High on "Orca Joss," amongst the two anemometer and VHF aerials, the stick strewn deck heralds construction.

The "second" fleet leaves. A third fleet including Kayitsiz III, replaces it. It includes Kari, a 14m Irish yacht heading south to Australia with a family of three children.

Advice is willingly given. Value is in the recipient. The fleets are driven by impending strong northerlies in late season. To dally or flee? Kari has 5 seasons in the northern Red Sea. "There are always windows.enjoy the superb diving."; "The Med in May is to be avoided.": keep east to avoid the Meltemi (northerly gales); Israel, Lebanon, Syria - Jerusalem, Damascus are worth it. Fuel is cheapest in Port Ghalib, El Gouna, Ismailia. Marti, Boat Yacht Lift near Marmaris, Turkey - "good deal" marinas.

Kari yields "gold" in a long overdue book swap.

The Plastimo self steering is taken apart then again. Plastimo life awaits sea trials. The autohelm may remain the sole system until Turkey. Sea trials give it a tick.

A shopping trip to the market, ends in a ride on a donkey cart. Amused locals watch the boy driver flay the donkey. Skipper pleads the donkey's case. The donkey wins. It refuses to move.

Busy Suakin boat builders, custodians of ancient skills, hammer, saw, trim (using an adze) and caulk (bark or sheep wool), oil, paint, time honoured, timber hulls designed by history, their backdrop, a fleet of their colourful "forebears." Expendable craft; of natural knees, pine and iron, subject to rust, borers and water sodden hulls.

Yemeni dhows await a judicial decision. They're caught smuggling for $US 300 each (Incentive: some $US 30,000 per trip) "workers" seeking opportunities in Gulf States. After crossing the Red Sea "workers" risk Yemen, Saudi Arabia and Gulf State borders.

A final bus trip to Port Sudan to skype daughters and friends, buy expensive "essentials:" cereal (Kellogs), yoghurt(fresh starter), change US dollars.

A touch of parental remorse. A daughter asks when Sahula will again be in home waters, answered by many miles in many years. "We want you here as we grow old." Daughter is aged 23. A conundrum: fly home, using cruising funds or enjoy family and friends aboard.

Doing it the hard way: a mantra. South African couple (60's); 10 years cruising; only self steering 3 years ago, no email facility; no weather reports: "can't be trusted.we don't sail in the cyclone season."

Cool Change's skipper (Peter [Canadian]) was tired; he'd set out waypoints around a danger zone. He needed sleep. Solo from Aden in high winds in the Straits of "Sorrow," he was exhausted and needed to stop. He cut the corner. At 0100 he was awake to rocks grinding as Cool Change heaved into sheer cliffs. His motor started only after hand cranking. He backed then full throttle forward miraculously came off albeit with the bow pulverized and a hole gushing water. Nothing beats a sailor and a bucket. Cool Change ran for 50 miles onto a beach, patched, repaired in Massawa, Eritrea and was now in Suakin. Cool Change joined the solo sailor's fleet of three.

Skipper over the side, scrapped barnacles off the propeller, shaft, and hull and wiped off growth. The antifoul (Jotun "Seavictor" ablative), applied a year ago.

Final visit to Suakin's market. Fruit, vegs, eggs, tins, dried milk, biscuits and freshly ground wholemeal flour. It may be weeks to Egypt.

Skipper contemplates putting adventure aside, enjoying time without limits, just being there, a beautiful bay, reading, painting, good friends. Turkey seems an eon away.

Next Passage Report - Suakin to Egypt.

David

Suakin, Sudan,

Monday, 13th April, 2009