Passage Report No. 35 Lycian Walk

Sahula Passage Report No. 35

Lycian Way - October 2009

Reading: The Lycian Way - Kate Clow 3rd Ed, April 2009

Book is essential. Includes map.

Pre-walk track and accommodation update is available on the website.

www.trekkinginturkey.com

www.lycianway.com

Photos are on Facebook.

"Clow and her faithful billhook have spent years clearing the scrub from ancient Roman roads and mule trails of pilgrims and miners, invaders and shepherds. ...she has stitched them into a 300 mile trail between Fethiye and Antalya which switches alluringly between high pastures and shore side villages, historical ruins and mountain summits." Seal, Sunday Times, 2002.

"...this...is an area with a rich and crowded past...the whole Aegean and Mediterranean coast of Asia Minor...was colonized by the Greeks from early in the millennium BC and subject to a distinctly Hellenistic influence...Lycia, in particular, enjoyed a period of ascendancy and a unique culture between the 6th and 4th centuries BC, before falling into the hands of Alexander the Great's successors and then the Romans. Later, Arabs, Crusaders, Genoese, and Armenians established themselves along its length. Traces of all these hands are visible still, and nowhere more so than along this path, their romance and charm enhanced by the fact so many of the sites are unfenced and unticketed, the old stones just lying there naturally among the scrub and goat pastures." Salmon, Sunday Times, 2000.

The easiest part of cruising is cruising. The hardest part is to leave "her" and head off inland. Harder still is to go trekking and camping. Yet the hardest part is the most rewarding. There is no equal to absorbing the country at walkers pace and meeting the villagers in their places. Perhaps, fortunately, few do it.

To do or not to do has often wrecked havoc in the adventurous mind. It was raining in Sigacik. Kristiane (Paddy and Caroline) advised it was fine in Fethiye.

It was go. Packed, repacked - lighten to survive. There would be no Karkar Mountain surprises. The only mule was Skipper. Gear included a bivvy bag, sleeping bag, mossie net, utensils, wet weather gear, clothes, etc, tuned to sleeping out or in. It was heavy but... Bus out to Fethiye - the adventure begins.

Tan Pansion's (25 TL B& B) balcony provided vistas of Fethiye's marina. A final repack sent a package to Sigacik.

Taxi (25 TL) avoided a long walk in suburban Ovacik. A large Rotary sign heralded the beginning and the soon to be familiar, red and white parallel marks.

A graded road cut the way for the first few kilometers, softened by spectacular coastal views over Olu Deniz.

A roman road or rough track, impossibly cut into the cliff, took over to wend its way up under the majesty of Baba Dagi (Father Mountain -2000m). Para gliders, butterfly like, swirled overhead from summit to sea. A 1953 avalanche stripped the whole east face adding to its grandeur.

The cistern (water well) and lookout (2 hours) would allow excellent camping if having a late afternoon start from Fethiye.

Meet Kirk, young Kiwi, walking the Way with a small pack and staying in local accommodation. Most walkers are English on a week holiday. Some in an organized day walk.

Turks give welcoming "iyi gonlar" (Good day) as a walker passes villages. The yaylas (fields) are a buzz with hives and "spacemen" beekeepers. Scenery of blue mountains and red gorges to the azure coast.

Georges House Pension (30 TL dinner, B&B) in Faralya provides a welcome hot bath and fine meal in company with an Australian, Brian, and a young German couple. Butterfly Bay is 500 feet below. Skipper completes a colourful sketch. Brian has pioneered a number of trails that a person staying in Faralya and particularly Georges House could do as day walks. There is written information available at Georges. The trails are marked.

Faralya is an excellent day walk. A bus is available to/from Fethiye/ Olu Deniz.

Getting lost, or off track, is part of trekking. The markers are not always obvious. Skipper is redirected by a "Faralyan." Later, road construction destroyed the markers. The map is too small scale to be accurate. Markers are frequent but they require vigilance. After a few days, the trail-makers intent becomes second nature. The free standing Lycian Way sign posts are at the end of each section. These are very useful to pick up the trail when it runs off roads or in villages.

A day of superb rocky mountains, gorges and bays. The bays are serene, seemingly untouched apart from the village. Yachts are seen passing by out at sea.

From Kabak to Alinca the trail has alternatives: via the mountains or the sea. Skipper opts for the mountains. It seems only defying gravity will provide a trail around the sheer cliffs. Yet the impossible yields and an ancient path (some 2 m wide) cuts its way upward. There are no other walkers today.

It is the second and seemingly, longest day (7 hours). It is 1800 on arrival in Alinca - a mountain village with a superb coastal vista. Skipper welcomes a boy's invitation to have tea with his parents and younger sister. It is the first house. Then onto Bayram's Place (the next house) with a bungalow, hot bath, dinner and breakfast (30TL). Skipper does a colour sketch.

Mircan (Bayram's wife) - and two children - milks the cow and prepares breakfast. On departure she provides a lunch of cheese, tomato and bread.

A family photograph and away to the ancient city of Sidyma. Skipper carries two litres of freshwater, a litre in a platypus "tube" and two half litre bottles. It is sufficient. Cisterns usually are undrinkable or occupied by swarms of bees.

Skipper sketched an Ottoman cistern with its arched doorway.

The track follows the coast before offering the option of heading inland to Sidyma rejoining at Bel. The inland route follows a valley to Bogazici before winding up to the yayla of Sidyma (incorporating the village of Dodurga). Bogazici is a timeless village built on goats, honey and olives (farm staples). Skipper is mobbed by school children who enjoy their photo. The village "blue" shop is opened for Skipper to buy soap. "Shop" is a very limited term. Skipper later sketches the "blue shop" at the end of a valley lane.

Voices calls "Merhaba, Sidyma (hello)." Only when a tree rustles is the mysterious voice revealed to be an olive picker. It is olive season and the groves are alive with villagers. Olive trees bedeck the remotest hillsides and valleys.

The location of ancient cities is one of their mysteries. Sidyma is no exception. Skipper treks up past a fort to a small plateau high above the valley. Its location could only be based on defence or religion. It would have been a beautiful city. The ruins date from the Roman period include substantial tombs and temples. Modern day, Sidyma includes blocks and tombs in its buildings. The mosque is built on the agora.

Musketelle phones. "Where are you?" "Sidyma, on a mountain." Silence. "Where the bloody hell is that?" Mobile coverage in rural Turkey is excellent.

Husetin invites Skipper to overnight with his family (25TL, dinner and breakfast). A loud individual, Skipper asks for the mosque. The Iman offers accommodation. Husetin presses his offer. Skipper is shown to a pleasant room and ensuite (shower is cool not warm). Husetin is forester for the Sidyma area. I eat separately but in company of him, wife and daughter. Dinner is potato chips, tomato, olives, honey and bread with tea.

Breakfast is cheese, honey, bread, tomato, olives and tea. A photo with his brother, Cemil. Cemil speaks English from his time in Germany. Many villagers have worked in Germany.

Skipper treks past the mosque and is invited by the Iman for tea. His daughter is home from college. A graceful, lovely lady, she is a student English teacher. Skipper considers it would be interesting to stay with the Iman and experience firsthand village Islam. The Iman is a pleasant middle aged fellow. The only concern would be the five daily and evening calls to Allah. The mosque is at the center of Sidyma's city ruins.

Marika and Rolf, a Dutch couple are trekking the Lycian Way during a week's holiday. Skipper joins them to Gavuragth. A long walk over local roads and tracks and a steep descent to Gavuragth. Bel is a village along the way. Skipper buys fruit from a local fruiter's truck. A village lady invited us to tea and then, unrequested, served a basic lunch. It was a fait accompli (30TL for three). The entrepreneurial spirit grows along the walk. Walkers need to make clear what they require from villagers.

In Gavuragth, it is reported that the only accommodation is Patara Lodge. This may not be so if villages are approached however the village is almost deserted.

The Lodge is in a walled compound around the main watch keepers houses. Aspen, the owner built the Lodge as his Turk summer home after working years in Germany. He returns to Germany with wife, Juliane, in November for winter. Aspen makes clear the costs before confirming a stay. Its luxury is more expensive ( there are bunks or rooms) than a village pension. Guests stay in the home and welcomed as if a family member. Aspen is an excellent cook. He speaks English and German. A pool, dogs and spectacular coastal views to Patara, complete the scene. Skipper watched the storms lash the coast and stayed another night. Rolf and Marieke left to catch a plane home.

Aspen and Juliane were going to the airport so generously drove Skipper to ancient Letoon avoiding a long "road" component. The ancient ruins of Pydnai, Letoon, Xanthos and Patara (World Heritage sites) are all in a valley which is the heart of Lycia. Pydnai is a fort guarding the southern valley. Letoon is a religious sanctuary site (to Goddess Leto and two children, Apollo and Artemis) at the base of a small hill surrounded by a low lying swampy where the Goddess turned two shepherds into frogs. Today the theatre and ruins are surrounded by an endless mass of plastic shelters over tomato plants.

Xanthos must have been a beautiful city. It dominates the valley from a high hillside location bordered by a river. Much of city's central buildings and streets remain in outline and marble. One can only imagine how lovely the Nereid Temple frescoes facing out over the valley and the city gate, would be now if not "stolen" by British, for the British Museum.

The citizens of Xanthos upheld their freedom above all else. "Freedom" supported mass suicide and scorching the city, rather than submission as slaves to invaders. Sitting in the well preserved theatre, looking out over the city, it takes little to imagine, under a full moon, less violent, peaceful proceedings.

Skipper took taxis between Letoon, Xanthos and Patara as buses were intermittent and required long walks to the sites (20TL). The Flower Garden pension (30TL B&B, 15TL dinner) is a welcoming family place. Meals (which are excellent, cooked by the older son) are in a large room visited by family and friends of the owner who is Patara's village Mayor. Skipper watched the ruby sun go down over ancient Patara's harbour. Exploration would await tomorrow.

A small stray dog (Denver?) accompanied skipper during the day's exploration.

Patara prospered as the Lycian capital and main port. In time, sand silted the harbour and overcame the city ruins. Excavated ruins (much remains) have been well preserved under sand cover. These ruins include parts of the theatre and the first known parliament building (Lycian cities elected representatives, depending on city size) and lighthouse.

Strangely, there is no signage about the ruins. Fortunately Skipper had use of the Pension's Patara guidebook.

On walking out of Patara Skipper was called over by Chris and Sarah Elphick (UK) They had delivered Skipper's walking poles to Flower Pension, after they were left at Patara Lodge. They are English sailors who moor their yacht at Chichester on the Solent.

Delikkemer (2000 years old) is part of the Patara aquaduct. The aquaduct or open channel, brought freshwater around hills, for some 30 kms. The Delikkemer took the water across a dip between hills (one kilometer), via a pipeline supported by a stone bridge. It would not be possible to do so in an open aquaduct. The pipeline consisted of large stone blocks holed so that when joined formed a pipe line. The pipeline meant water could go down and up the other side to continue its less rapid, almost horizontal flow in an open channel down to Patara.

Skipper meets a young Australian fellow. A solo backpacker from Townsville (originally from Ingham). It seems only Kiwis and Australians are on the full Walk.

It's Independence Day in Kalkan. Horns sound from cars and walkers in procession to the flag bedecked harbour for a night of eating and dancing to a traditional instrument band and singers. Ataturks image is displayed on a continual video screen. Skipper meets Lou, Tony and Mike, English residents of Kalkan. They kindly invite Skipper to meet them the next day but with the weather being unsettled and dawning a fine day, Skipper opts to continue the Walk to Kas. It proves to be a wise decision.

The Onur Pension is excellent. Balcony has spectacular views over the old town and harbour to the islands (35TL B& B).

Skipper takes a dolmus to Azbek and taxi to Saribelen (20TL) to avoid roads. The days walk is to Gokceorren. A long walk over beautiful hills, through valleys, yaylas, and villages.

A goat herdsman and wife invite Skipper for tea. They live in a stone and timber single storey house. It is basic, etched in poverty or the simple life. The wife makes chai over a fireplace in the living room. There are no chairs or tables. She provides lunch (unrequested) including syruped figs which she later gives as a farewell present to Skipper. She produces photos of other walkers who she has entertained. She is nearly crippled by arthritis. Skipper pays 20TL hoping that the excess will assist in obtaining medical assistance or ease her apparent poverty (She is later heard shouting farewell and moving seemingly effortlessly??).

Near the path Skipper passes huge blocks, the remains of an unmarked ancient ruin. Dark clouds and thunder over the range urge Skipper to move on.

Ahmet has just put his horse in the stable. He lives in Gokceorren. He sees Skipper entering the village and extends and invitation to stay at his house at 25 TL (Dinner, B&B). Ahmet is loud and direct, his wife, Fatma is quiet and reserved, the young son, Toran, is typically active. A pleasant room with ensuite bathroom is "home" for the night. However, when there is no hot water (there is a gas heater), Ahmet repeats "Socuk" i.e. cold. Evening meal is vegetarian. I eat at a table while the family eat off a large round plate, as seems to be the custom. After dinner an invitation is given to join the family in the family room (with TV) with its wood stove and enjoy hot nuts and chai.

Skipper is invited to retire at 2000. A lovely family, poor but seemingly healthy and content. The house is basic but with all facilities.

Ahmet forecasts rain. The day dawns fine. Skipper departs for Phellos. The track goes up into the hills with views out across valleys and mountains. Thunderous black clouds herald a wet day. The track is through thick bush that when wet leans in to ensure a wet walker. Skipper dons a goretex rain jacket. Skipper is partially wet and cold. The gods of Phellos are in discussion; the thunder reverberates through the hills. Rain starts falling. Skipper presses on over slippery rocks through grasping bushes thankful for the support of the walking poles. It is a day with different beauty.

Phellos is revealed in a break in the weather. It is located on a ridge summit which limits its size, provides defence. Skipper wonders at the engineering required to build a city in such a place. Skipper eats the syruped figs provided by the herdsman's wife. It is to prove unwise.

It is the end of the walk. The weather is now consistently rain and thunder and cold.

Dede (Grandfather) Café is owned by retired Gemal and his wife. Skipper is grateful to find a room and hospitality after a wet and cold walk. Skipper is also not feeling well. It seems linked to the syruped figs. Skipper is two spend two days at Dede Café unable to continue. Gemal and his wife each night drive to Kas to avoid the night cold. They generously, leave food if needed and return next morning. Gemal's son, Orhan in Kas is able to interpret my position so Gemal is not concerned. Despite the infliction, Skipper enjoys the hospitality of Gemal and his wife in their superb house (some 200 years old).

After two nights Gemal drives Skipper to the Kas Otogar (bus station). Skipper realizes that the walking poles remain are left in the Dede Café and asks Gemal to send by carrier to Sigacik.

Skipper travels by bus to Demre to view ancient Myra and the St. Nicholas church. A small car, horn tooting, stops the bus. It is Gemal who has driven back to Dede Café and delivered the walking poles to the bus. It is most generous and typically Turk. Skipper is very grateful.

Myra is known for its necropolis (tombs) cut high up, into the cliff and theatre below. It is another ancient city closely surrounded by plastic tomato "sheds." It was disappointing.

St. Nicholas Church is set in suburbia and covered in a metal shed. The interior is interesting for its history but the exterior construction is destroys the context.

Interestingly, while St. Nichols, the original "Father Xmas" did provide for children, he never traveled further than his home city of Patara and the nearby Demre region. Many of his well know attributes are bound in mythology.

Skipper bused to Finike to join friends, Paddy and Caroline on Kristiane. Three lovely days hospitality, aboard at the Marina, ensured a fully recovered Skipper could return in good health to Sigacik and Sahula.

The remainder of the Lycian Way must await another time.

A superb experience. Thanks Kate Clow and the team and their sponsors.

NOTES:

Skipper particulars: Aged 62, retired, fit and healthy with a background in outdoors camping, walking, rock climbing and mountaineering. Presently on a circum-navigation on yacht: Sahula. Blog: www.sailblogs.com (Sahula). Walk was done solo.

Gear: Skipper would have preferred to have a light weight one person tent. A bivvy bag provides no night rain protection for the pack. Skipper would not carry it or a sleeping bag, again if deciding to stay in village houses or pension accommodation. Weight is of the utmost consideration. A light weight pack is also required. If doing the high mountain sections a tent is essential. It could be forwarded to the town nearby using a cargo transport company and asking it be retained in their office till arrival.

Camping out would be a superb experience. Skipper did not camp out on the Walk. There are many excellent camping places. A groundsheet is essential against stony ground. A stove would be useful although a fire is possible in all campsites. Nights would be cool to cold. Darkness came early.

Other walkers: Skipper met only four (NZ, Australia, Holland) walking long sections. Day walkers only did the first section to Faralya.

Village houses: Villages sought out Skipper to stay in their houses. Skipper was solo. It may be different if a couple but accommodation always had room for two. The cost was 25TL dinner B&B. Pensions charged 30TL B&B with dinner 15 TL or eat out.

Hot water baths: If this is essential check it is available before settling on accommodation. Skipper found it was often not included. A little suffering in a sea of hospitality is hardly a problem. The solution is to go without a bath and enjoy a simple wash.

Meals: Basic but adequate. Often vegetarian only. The most basic was fried chips, tomato and olives for dinner. Pension meals were excellent. Stomach upsets from local food is a risk. Avoid syruped figs!!!

All the Guide's recommended accommodation proved very good. There were always other pensions available as well. Skipper stayed in Tan Pension in Fethiye. It was excellent with superb balcony views over the harbour (25TL B&B)

Enterprising villagers: Beware of invites to Chai or tea. It may be in fact an "invitation" to a meal. The meal may prove to be a fait accompli. In any event, an enjoyable time will be had with a villager and the cost is minimal and to a good cause. The cost is likely to be 10 TL a person.

An invitation to only chai may also involve paying for each cup. Usually in Turkey chai offered is free. In any event it may be best to offer to pay. The cost will be around a Lira a cup.

Lunch: Skipper carried some fruit, sausage, a tomato and cheese (if available) and munched peanuts and dried apricots and figs with a muesli bar (if available). Eating as you go rather than a large lunch is better.

Cost: The Walk would be very inexpensive if only camping. A mix of camping and pensions would be pleasant. Village houses cost 25 TL dinner, B&B, Pensions cost 30TL B&B, dinner extra 15 TL. Large towns may require use of pensions.

Water: Skipper carried a platypus water tube to a plastic 1litre container bag and two half litre bottles i.e. 2 litres. There was always a bottle remaining. If camping a bottle would be needed for cooking. Cisterns exist in the first part of the walk but where there are beehives it would be risky competing with them. Many villages have only water tanks. This would mean walk is in short supply and if taken may have to be paid for.

It would not be possible, unless camping, to purify all water drunk during the walk.

Map: The map rapidly needed consistent repair i.e. taping. A colour copy of threlevant partrt being would save the original. The map is not reliable as a detailed guide to the path. The Guide book is needed to ensure that a walker is on the trail. Again a photocopy of the relevant part would save weight.

Marking: The red and white stripe is easily seen all along the track. It is a remarkable effort by the marker makers. Skipper got lost a few times but mainly due to not concentrating on looking for marks and walking past them. At one point a new road had destroyed the marks. However after a couple of days it soon became clear how the track "worked." It pays to read the Guide for each section. Villages will direct a walker to the track. The Lycian Way sign posts are placed at the beginning and end of each section. These are particularly useful when finding the trail next day or when on a road and finding the trail which runs off it.

Level of difficulty: The Walk is no problem to a fit and healthy person. It didn't involve any seriously dangerous sections. Although, between Bel and Patara Lodge the last down hill section is steep and across rock. If it was wet this section would require extreme caution.

The times given in the Guide are accurate. Of course, a fast walker will reduce them. Skipper was generally at accommodation by 1600 but some days arrival was earlier. It depends when you depart. Skipper departed generally by 1000. If camping you could leave a lot earlier but in pensions and houses breakfast is earliest at 0800 and more like 0900.

Walking poles: Skipper found these essential when walking on rocky, slippery paths with a heavy pack. The substantially reduce the likelihood of a sprain or damage to feet.

Boots: Good ankle supporting boots are essential. The rocky terrain takes its toll on boots. The soles on Skipper boot separated due to glue failure. Fortunately it happened at the end of the Walk. The boots are high quality Italian leather with goretex interiors. The goretex is useless.

Time to do Walk: Skipper took some ten days and stopped at Kas or Dede Café below Phellos. This covered about a third of the walk. However Skipper excluded parts of it. Exclusions included Patara Lodge to Patara, Xanthos to Patara and Patara to Saribelen. On these parts Skipper took a dolmus but more often a taxi. Average cost of Taxi fare was 20 TL. It was well worth it. Walking between plastic tomato sheds didn't appeal.

When to do the Walk: Skipper did the Walk in the last two weeks of October. The weather was initially sunny days and cool evenings. However the last week winter storms were hanging around and broke over the Walk on the Phellos section. The better time to do the Walk would be in September. If the mountain section from Demre to Finike is to be done then it is best done in September. Skipper planned to do this section but the storms ended all hope. Walking in rain is not pleasant particularly as the water laiden bushes ensure that even with rain or no rain it is doubly wet. Wet rocks and slipping is also are a considerable risk.

Memories: The scenery, ancient cities and the marvelous villagers leave indelible memories.

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