Passage Report 43
Sahula
Aladaglar Trek
"She goes astern sweetly" says Klaus (he and Ingrid have traveled their motor launch down the Danube), as Sahula rests contentedly, if insignificantly, between the 40m Gulets, at her Karav Sogut wharf.
It is midsummer hot, very hot. Skipper seeks to adventure in high, cool, mountains. The Taurus Aladaglar (mountains) rise to 3756 m are the central range of the Taurus Mountains. They form the western most branch of the Himalayan mountain belt.
Skipper expectantly packs warm clothes, sleeping bag, solo tent and packaged food. The new ultra-light tent, pack, boots and stove underscore that the only mule is Skipper.
The dry Anatolian plateau passes in four buses (Marmaris, Aksaray, Nigde, Cukurbag , Camardi), 15 hours overnight before the Aladaglar rise above Cukurbag village. Zamir, a young naval (submariner - Turkey has 12) sailor guides (speaks English) Skipper between buses. His home village is Camardi next village to Cukurbag. A young (students) Istanbul couple intending four days rock-climbing lumber off with heavy gear laden backs. A roadside fruit stall owner calls OzSafak Pension (35TL B&B, 50 TL DB&B). Camping places are available. Skipper opts for a hot bath and warm bed. Proprietor, Bashir welcomes Skipper. Skippers shares it with two young Dutch birdwatchers here to sight the rare "Caspian Snowcock."
Bashir's mother provides a balcony Turkish meal. A sunset setting for the spectacular, rugged, horizon stretched, range. The vista of stark, precipitous, peaks gleam limestone white, brown, change in a lumiere - shadow, fading blue, yellow, gold, crimson, purple, grey and moonlight mystery. It is nature at its colourful "movie" best. It renders the debate whether "Ali" means "red" or "high" nonsensical. The Aladaglar are indeed the "crimson" mountains..
Early sunrise. Bashir drives Skipper to Demirkazik village and the start of the trek up the Cumbar Vadisi (valley). "It is not difficult, a little steep in the gorges" - Skipper strides out past a massif sheep dog growling a warning to avoid her two plump pups and flock of sheep.
"Go right where the path divides" advises Bashir. Skipper, pack on back, enters the gorge. It is narrow but narrower on the right. It is a cleft, edged by high vertical, cliffs and seemingly impossible rock falls. Each impassable time, a thin, often loose stone, gravelly, path leads up. Skipper is encouraged by the horses, donkeys and tour groups that pass this way. It is slow, hot and taxing.
Halfway, water like wine, flows from a shepherd's spring. The shepherd shares a spring cooled melon. His sheep cowering before the heat. White, massif, sheep dogs growl protection. Shepherds work their herds (sheep and goats) over all the Aladaglar yaylas (mountain grasslands). In late summer (August) it is a denuded, desert environment, spared only by clumps of wildflowers.
"The pass is three hours" said Bashir - four hours and Skipper crests a pass to reveal a cirque of peaks dominated by Demirkazik (3756m). It is a grand, impressive, cathedral like, place. Pain is displaced by awe. Ice patches remind of winter. Giant, limestone, organ pipes split by rearing cracks provide a "1000" highways. Cliffs rear some 600 m to craggy summits. It is a climber's paradise. And it is cool by day, cold at night.
This is the "cradle of Turkish mountaineering" ("The Ala Dag - Climbs and Treks in Turkeys Crimson Mountains," O.B. Tuzel - Cicerone Guide 1993). Climbing -winter or summer, is a recent sport in Turkey. The earliest climbs were by Europeans from the 1800 - 1960's when Turks sought survival not leisure. Today, young Turks from university rock climbing clubs assault the peaks. They are a dedicated, small but growing number mainly from Istanbul and Ankara.
The Government, in recognition of the value of outdoor activities erected, in 1987, a Mountain and Ski House outside Demirkazik village. It offers budget accommodation. It is a short walk to the gorge entrance to the Cimbar vadisi. However, the lodge's location does not allow the spectacular range, sunset, lumiere that is the advantage of the OzSafak Pension balcony. The sunset lumiere should not be missed.
Dipsiz Gol (lake) marks the end of the trek. In late summer, it is not potable. Skipper camps near the shepherd's camp and spring just back from the lake. Mohammed (11years) is in charge. His father has gone to the village. Mohammed adopts visitors and rides a long suffering, small, mountain horse to shepherd the flock on the high yaylas. A true mountain "man." Heir to a priceless natural inheritance.
Turk climbers, Mustafa and Aykut, arrive from Istanbul.
Suspected fruit poisoning the first night, lays Skipper low but the next day recovers. A day is spent with the climbers reconnoitering potential rock climbs.
Sunset and sunrise crests the peaks. It is time to leave. Skippers last sights the climbers mid-way up a seemingly impossible, organ pipe, climb. Five climbers from Ankara, trek by.
Pension luxury and the Yedi Goller (Seven Lakes) trek and ascent of Mt Elmer (3723m), beckon.
"Take a jeep," says Bashir. It is a long hot walk to Sokulupinar, base camp for tour groups into Yedi Goller. The jeep (70TL) drives to the start. "Three hours to the pass, six to Yedi Goller." Skipper feels the benefit of a lightened pack (no stove, no wet weather gear, less food).
It is a long, hot trek, up the Yalak Vadisi. It begins as a deep gorge, evolves into narrow canyons, stony slopes, switchback trails and over false passes. A shepherd guides Skipper into an useen cutting. It avoids a longer, alternative, gorge. His camp offers a spring. The pass proves a trek too far. Skipper camps below it within reach of a morning ascent of Mt Elmer. Pre-used campsites, although stony, with a groundsheet and sleeping mat ensure a good sleep. Sunset's ruby tones reach out over the distant Anatolian plateau.
Sunrise, Skipper ascends Mt Elmer. A non-technical climb over a rock and shale slope. It is begun from the pass. The reward is the summit view. It extends to affinity across the Aladaglar Range and the mountains and plains beyond. A spring on the pass provides water.
Downhill to Yedi Goller (Seven Lakes) and a camp alongside Buyuk Gol (lake). Direktas Peak (3510m) rises its cliffs above, surrounded by high peaks in a valley some 3 km diameter. Kizilkaya (3725m) towers over the valley. Climbs abound but this area is tour group country. A large tent camp attests to its popularity.
In the eons of time, the valley was filled by glaciers. These have rounded the enclosed peaks and cut steeply those that surround them. It is a dry, bare, primeval, ancient and silent place. An exit trail down the Hacar Vadesi, leads to eastern forests and Ulupinar village.
"...and what do you do?" asks Skipper of Hussein. "I am the barman." It is Ramadan - Islam's month of abstinence. Skipper asks again. Enterprising Hussein (psychology student) manages the Yedi Goller Café and Bar (selling beer, juice, coffee, chai and popcorn). After sunset it's Yedi Goller's social center for the guides, clients and itinerants. Reputedly, the highest bar in Turkey.
A day scrambling up many low peaks. A final evening at the "Café." Early breakfast and Skipper begins the return trek. The cool, gold of sunrise embellishes the ascent to the pass. A high wind lows farewell over Mt Elmers summit. From the pass it is all downhill.
The loose rock and gravel provide a fast, cautious, descent. Horses laden with western tour groups racksacks pass slowly upwards. Skipper treks out to Sokulupinar camp. A 4WD driver offers a welcome lift to Cukurbag. Ozsafak pension provides a hot shower, fine meal and warm bed.
A long day by bus to Antalya. Another to Fethiye and Marmaris. In Fethiye, Skipper buys new boots and trousers. The new "Regatta" brand boots had failed the test. The sole ripped apart by the rocks. A complaint to the manufacturers website received no reply. The zip leg trousers had reach old age.
Sahula rocked contentedly. Skipper celebrated with a beer and good meal at the Carduk Restaurant at Sogut. He had survived, fit and well. Next trek may be the St Paul's walk in October.
Summary: The Aladaglar (mountains) are spectacular. For the young or not so young, a trek - day or overnight or more - is an unsung jewel. The load can be less by hiring a jeep to the start, a pack horse or donkey, and a full ensuite room at the Ozsafak Pension with DB&B. If not a walker; a dinner on the Ozsafak Pension balcony, fine wine and natures sunset luminiere is not to be missed.
Brings strong boots. Skipper's pair of Regatta XLD's simply disintegrated - sole fell apart.
Access: Bus or plane to Adana or Nigde. Bus to Camardi and Cukurbag drops off outside the Ozsafak Pension in Cukurbag. A direct bus to Nigde from outside the Pension connects with buses to the underground cities and Goreme in Cappadocia.
Next Report: Sogut to Bodrum
David
August, 2010
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