Passage Report No. 58
Linz to Regensburg, Germany
May, 2011
Sahula, welcomed by Johann, is in Linz alongside one of the few visiting boat wharves (1 Euro per metre, water, electricity, no wifi¸ supplies, fuel station nearby, riverside walk to city or No. 27 bus).
The centre; a mix of old and new, expresses the city's industrial prosperity. Clean, bustling, a new "glass" art gallery and technology museum, it is a city of the River.
It's been a long day. The Danube weaved its way through the narrow, dam flooded gorge, hedged in by forested hills. Cyclists crowded the river side tracks.
After three locks, Sahula entered Germany - 2200 km and seven countries since the Black Sea.
"Have you seen a red Australian yacht?" - Lock masters phone to confirm a Sahula sighting. Cyclists, Leo and Barbara, (German) are friends of Crew. They "found" Sahula and were aboard for two days.
After four attempted anchoring (dam flooded lakes are to alleviate prior fast rock rapids), in ebbing dusk, Passau loomed large. A striking cityscape silhouette of medieval buildings and church spires at the junction of three rivers: Danube, Inn, Ilz. The salt trade, on large wooden boats towed by some 50 horses established the city's prosperity. The Inn flows fast and full. Its brown water mixing the smaller green Danube.
Fleets of passenger ships, attested to the tourist trade and the insignificance of one small yacht. Navigation lights on Sahula rested alongside the city river wall to be moved on by police at dawn.
"You can't stay here, there are no "sportsboot" berths till Heining..." - some 10 km upriver past the next locks.
"... you take the first bollard..." yelled the German lockmaster "...is this your first lock..." Skipper harboured foreboding as lock filling turbulence is dangerous (previous locks had filled on the entry end). The lock filled at the exit end. Never argue with a lockmaster.
Consistency in locks is missing. Their different construction dates provide many variations - filling method: exit or entry end, bottom (calmer) or at gate (very turbulent), floating or static bollards (some or all and which lock wall), if a bridge (combined lock, dam), the air height (lowest was 8 metres).
Sahula's "system:" fendered by two large "ball" fenders forward and mid aft, a wooden plank (rough, concrete lock walls) supported by two "conical" fenders, mid boat. Forward and mid boat bollard lines looped over a single lock bollard (bollards are wide apart).
Sahula contacts the lock master for instructions (VHF lock channel on chart) usually (unusual Sahula only docking) entering the lock after the "commercial" ships to take up bollards on the wall opposite the other boat. Turbulence from exiting ships is another issue. Sahula exits first only if advised.
With minimum pre-entry (average 20 minutes) and transit time (20 minutes), locks do not unduly hinder a day's passage.
The "sportsboothafen" (MYC) welcomed Sahula (all facilities, no fuel - 20 Euro a night).
"Orca's" voyage is to the Black Sea." It is shallow ahead..." Johann advises.
Bus to Passau. Cobbled narrow streets, tourist shops, medieval and 18th Century buildings for tourists, modern huge malls for the locals. Castle dominates on a hilltop with well presented museum and art gallery. Views of city below and Danube curving into the hills.
Spring is in the air - and the water. Evening families of white swans with five signets, joined by 7 ducklings.
Goodbye Deggendorf. The Danube, less Inn, is a much smaller (100m in places) rock strewn, stream. It seems a new, less major, River, winding through the plain... Its fast current cuts the narrowest and shallowest (1.9 m) over a longer distance. The "2m alarm" frequently rings its dirge. Barges (reassuringly, confident) pass by.
Weekend sun seekers line the pebble beaches. "Sportboots" (outboard, modern cruisers) streak by and anchored in off channel "bays."
Moored in an off channel "sportsboothafen" Sahula's crew dine at a beer garden. Snitzel, Spaghetti ice-cream, Banana Split, Disney Donald.
Cyclists depart, fresh "Sunday" bread shop, skype family, onto the River.
It is Sahula's shallowest day - 1.6-7m - "alarm" ringing. Skipper ponders the possibility of being 120 km from the 2400 km end on a shallowing River.
Sahula was twice, mud churning, caught by current, facing rocks. Barges prove reassuring.
Massive cumulus over mountains, give hope, prove illusory.
"Wanda" - 2500 tonnes, 110 m "...1.6m but propeller..." (was dredging).
Bogen monastery, steeple spearing, dominates from its "berg."
Evening berth past Straubing lock at the "sportsboot" wharf. Anchorages are not possible in rock strewn River. Riverside wharves, "yacht" clubs are invariably full, private and too shallow (1.4 or less).
Straubing was a River town till sliced off by a dam, lock and canalised lake. A map of Danube past shows riverine wet lands fed by a wandering watercourse. New dams for a deeper, less current, controlled, commercial Danube are controversial.
Passengers dance and dine oblivious to their passing ship's seemingly impossible intention; in the inky darkness, to navigate the rock strewn, shallows of Sahula's day.
"...it is the lowest I can remember..." Straubling local "... but it is ok from here..."
Captain Jord ("River Countess" - 115m passenger boat) "...sometimes it is millimetres to bottom..."
Sahula's last day but one on the River - in the heart of Europe. Day dawns calm, sunny. "De rigueur" is board shorts.
Land of a thousand white steepled villages, upon verdant green.
Islands of noisy, river bird colonies.
Within trees, an orchestra of the rites of spring,
Sahula snakes the "S" bends in the currentless calm.
From the hills above, in King Ludwig's huge whimsical, Doric temple (1842) 118 illustrious marble Germans stoically stand over the Danube.
St. Stephens spire spears above Regensberg's medieval city. A UNESCO World Heritage "cultural" site of well preserved cobble stone alleyways, angled, colourful, buildings, sidewalk cafes, plazas and parks
The sign says "sports" - a small boat harbour past the main town.
30 feet between pylons, Sahula enters, depth drops (2m), current surges, full on Tanya - 700 year old bridge remains unmarked - shore side tourist agog, Crew concerned.
It is too shallow (1.4), next marina, a berth (1.5m) (15 Euro/night - water, electricity, showers, fuel past next lock) - Skipper relieved...
Wifi and an internet cafés are rare in Germany. Skipper buys a sim card but finds skype is prohibited to prepaid mobiles. Government policy is to limit free phones to ensure profitable pay phones.
The "East German Gallery" exhibits a Max Peckstein (1900's impressionist) collection. Skipper is enjoying superb galleries in the Danube cities.
The "power tower" lifts thrill seeking passengers (Crew) to150 m. and drops - it is a Bavarian fair of side-show alley, beer halls and traditional dress.
Sahula is within 20 km of leaving the River at Kelheim. A time to relax.
Next Report: Goodbye Danube Hello, Main - Danube Canal.
David
23rd May, 2011
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