Report 66 Ipswich

Passage Report No. 66

Ipswich One

Sept 2011

Ipswich, last year, seemed dowdy, bland. Perhaps it was the harbour forefront in transition. Now it impresses as vibrant. Pubs and restaurants crowd the foreshore, history lines busy Tudor streets. Ipswich Haven Marina's cost is reasonable, staff friendly and its modern facilities make for a pleasant "home" for Sahula till March next year.

It's Heritage Week. A heritage walk educates Skipper on the cities historical association with Cardinal Wolseley, Kings, Queens, artists: Constable and Gainsborough. Jazz, art galleries, theatre and an alternative film venue, inter alia, promise a different sailor's life.

"Pete, are you attending the Southampton Boat Show?" He and Felicity (English cruising friends met in Thailand) accommodate and endure Skipper's endless search for Zods replacement and outboard.

Skipper engages in "Turkish" price haggling. A Honda 2.5m inflatable dinghy and Honda 2.3 four stroke, outboard is purchased. With large tubes (increased buoyancy under load), longer length (fuel canisters, crew, guests); Zod is updated.

Tanya (engine) remains ill. The medicine is elusive. Consultant engineers hold diversified causal opinions - electrical, fuel, compression, hide the key.

It is fuel. A Yanmar recall on the manual fuel pump was missed. The pump diaphragm is prone to leak allowing air in the injectors. After replacement, Tanya smiles happily. Skipper exudes relief.

At 84, sharp as a tack, Barbara, watercolourist, met while she was painting Flatford of Constable country, offers to introduce Skipper to the Ipswich and Suffolk's art scene. Long memories of life as a boat builders daughter regale Skipper during drives into rural Suffolk, attendance at an art opening and a day class in historic Alderton, and Shingle Beach.

Andrew and Carrie's "Scarletts" estate epitomises country living. Nearby grouse shooting "range" shows the English penchant for deadly sports. Grouse are bred to be shot, at close range, (by paying shooters) when flushed out over a cornfield.

Lunch at Levington village's "Ship Inn," an Orwell River cruise, visit to a country house art gallery - another weekend at "Scarletts" - Suffolk hospitality.

A pre-slip four days "time out" on the Orwell. Skipper finishes two more of the ten "Turkey" paintings. Marketing to a local gallery, taxes confidence - "...go to art school" (true!), composition, colour mixing - colourful "fauve" art competes with the dominant subtle English light. Two others wax admiringly.

"Free flow" allows free transit of the Ipswich harbour lock (tidal water outside equates with inside).

English "Indian" summer spares Skipper the "arctic" winter. Sahula is lifted to a land berth for her first winter.

"Wintering" the motor (water out, antifreeze in), measures to avoid mould (dehumidifier, tube heaters, absorbent pads) vary and confuse. Skipper, cautious of dehumidifiers (reported cause of onboard fires), opts for absorbent chemical pads and two tube heaters.

Skipper turns blue sanding off antifouling. Online (Force 4 Chandlery) primer and antifoul provides less expensive paint. Antifreeze in, oil changed, cockpit covered, tied off mast halyards, radar reflector removed - storm, gale, tempest, snow, ice - is possible. Cushions, mattresses are stored in a Marina and friends shed.

Mo, white wisps askance, retired, man of the sea, (72 years) owner of a 50 foot, timber, North Sea fishing boat ("She rolls a bit when 50 miles out, fishing..." [in the North Sea]); retired mechanical engineer ("I've rebuilt it down to the last bolt"). Tale teller of an Atlantic seaman's, life.

On the Danube, a rope entwined the feathering propeller and wrenched off the anode and greasing mechanism. Mo offers to make the parts for repair.

Next season Norway cruise (UK east coast, Shetland Islands, above Arctic Circle to Lofoten in Norway) is considered and prepared. Vicki of "Dynamanie" (Cruising Association) offers the loan of a full set of charts of the much indented, island and fjord coast. "You'll need a magnifying glass to see amongst the charted rocks."

Andrew of "Child of the Sea" (38 foot, steel sloop), solo sailor, retired classical musician (Viola), opts to make up a "fleet" to Norway.

"Crew wanted to Norway" draws no response. Arctic Circle??

Suffolk's "Indian" summer - sunny, cool days - defies the inevitable, witches of winter.

A large suitcase contains Skipper's colourful art works, enroute to Australian "light."

Skipper flies to Australia on the 4th November, after time in London; returning on 16th March, 2012.

Norway cruise departure is end of April.

Next Report. Australia.

David Haigh

Sv Sahula

Ipswich, Suffolk

October, 2011