Passage Report No. 77

Trondheim to Bodo

Most cruisers bypass Trondheim. A visit entails a 26 m detour, up the Trondheimfjord. However, it's worth the time. It's a friendly, cultural place.

It's Norways' third largest city (150,000). It houses an impressive array of museums, art galleries, Nidaros Cathedral (Royal Coronations), Bishops Palace (includes the Royal Regalia) , Stiftsgarden - Royal Residence, and historical buildings. Located on the Nidaros River mouth, it was Norway's capital and Royal seat. The Ringve Music Museum in a botanical garden overlooking the fjord, is marvellous.

Sahula berthed in the Skansen Marina (150 NK, 10 NK entry facilities, 10 NK shower (5 mins), 30 NK dryer, 30 NK washing). There is a guest "havn" there and two others in the Kanal Havn. The latter requires notifiying the Skansen Rail Bridge operator. The Skansen is affected by a NW'ly swell. It is a short walk to the old city.

Crew flies in from Scotland, huge suitcase in tow. Sahula departs for the Arctic Circle, following island channels off a coast of sinuous, rolled, glacial grey mountains.

"It's beautiful..." says crew.

"It's not on the chart or in the guides." A bridge arches over clearing 16m (Sahula 15m) "It's new..." tells a passing crew.

Sahula turns for Stokksund's 30m. bridge, anchoring before.

Start early, end early. Sahula (Harrivigoyan Island) anchors (7-9m - 2.7 in entry channe) in rain and thunder. "Honey" (inflatable "Honwave" dinghy) takes Skipper fishing - three bite; a "cod"(?) is the catch.

Torghatten (mountain) on Torget Island, has a huge hole through it. Nature's creation; it draws tourism (superb views) to Island and Sahula (Moyhamna anchorage 7-10 m).

Supplies are needed - to Bronnoysund guest "havn" (all facilities, fuel, shops alongside quay, no day charge).

Weather clears, Sahula presses on into evening.

"North of Bronnoysund, the landscape is one of uncompromising grandeur..." (Lomax, 194). The spectacle unfolds in three days of clear, fine weather.

Skipper adds two layers. Sahula is near the Arctic Circle.

Ahead the Syv Sostre (Seven Sisters - seven peaks) range; inland high, snow covered peaks abound.

Peter Dass, poet and pastor (1647-1707- born to Scots father), lived on Alsten Island serving the remote fishing communities. Crew wishes to commune with a Scots forebear. Sahula anchors (10m); crew visits the monument and church.

It is "...one of the worlds largest puffin colonies..." Sahula berths (new marina guest havn, all facilities, 80 k. day, 100 k overnight) at Lovund Island to satisfy Skipper's childhood fascination. Puffins fly high overhead.

Sails filling, towards the, sharp, toothed peaks of the Traena Islands. They mark the Arctic Circle (66 degrees, 30 minutes). New Husoy harbour, guest havn (no facilities - 100 K) is crowded due to the Traena Music Festival. Ashore a tent "city" accomodates the many visitors.

In perfect conditions (fine, 10-12 knots, calm seas) Sahula enjoys (first full day) sailing through the skerries and islands to the steep sided, Holandsfjord ending in the Engebreen Glacier.

Crew sings "it is a beautiful life."

High, precipitous, snow topped peaks, streaking waterfalls, provide the gateway to the majestic Engebreen glacier. Blue white ice, tumbling from the Svartisen icecap (370 sq.km), retreats from the sea.

Skipper's NZ mountaineering memories flood back.

Sahula berths (five yachts) at Svartisen guest wharf (150 K, no facilities).

Rain, cloud, Sahula departs for Bodo. There is time to cruise the Lofoten Islands before crew's departure. Bodo is bypassed (for now). Sahula sails for Rost Island, the most southerly of the Lofoten Archipelago.

Next Report: Lofoten Islands

Best

David

10th July 2012