Passage Report: No. 80
South Return: Bodo to Lindesnes
O400 - yellow touches the distant peaks. Skipper prepares to depart Bodo on a fine, calm day. Breakfast, charts organised, digital charts course set, enroute anchorages noted - Skipper is solo.
The "Great Bodo Fender Thief" has struck. A large, "ball" fender is missing - come loose or stolen - cost of cruising.
Two brown, sea eagles swooped, sea birds in close pursuit.
Tillerpilot "Tim" [Timid - automatic self steering) malfunctions (later adjusting settings); Skipper steers fulltime. Calm, Tanya drives on.
Sails, moth like, pass against the steep coastal ranges. Yachts on the move, local or foreign, homeward bound.
Updating the Lomax guide: underwater cable now cuts Itra Kavoya anchorage (Lomax, 200 D). Sahula anchors in a bay behind the island (open SW, 5m, sand/weed).
Carved, grisely, brute rock, grey ranges, speckled with past winter white; dripping, filigree waterfalls; backdrop to blood red homes of remote farms and summer houses spaced by fields and forests, emerald green.
Metal globe on island, marks Sahula passing the Arctic Circle.
Past the Seven Sisters; peaks nipple like, more naked, less snowed, streaking waterfalls; await winter.
Torgatten's hole (through the mountain) pinpricks light.
Sahula starts day early so anchors early ( 8 hour day) for fishing, reading or walking.
Skipper prefers a day unplanned; anchorage is where Sahula is. Anchorages are the mark of Norwegian cruising. There are literally thousands of beautiful, wild places amongst the islands, skerries and fjords. Consistently, depth 5-10m, sand/weed; Sahula edges in, drops, reverses, Tanya off - chips and juice - life is good.
"You stay out?"
"Out" defines those who are always "in." "In" cruisers require facilities - hot shower, shops, loos and washing/drying machines. Such needs ensure "out" is always solo. Sahula rarely has company.
Slattoya and Sunnesoya islands anchorages aren't in the Guide. The chart marks an "anchor" icon.
Skipper is calendar deprived. Sunday shuts the Bronnoysund fuel outlet. Sahula moves onto Rorvik. Sahula carries additional fuel containers (140 litres).
A viking boat regatta busies Bronnoysund harbour.
Five hooks caught four mackerel, two hooks caught none. Skipper is resigned to catching four and retaining two.
Poles seemingly thrive on late season adventure. Sahula passed two small (15-20 feet) open gaff rigged craft and a large yacht heading north. Skipper marveled at the lack of weather protection.
A large, square rigged, topsailed, double ended viking vessel, time warped, glides along the coast.
Rorvik fuel is at a harbourside, Esso, road garage (10.30k). Garages are expensive compared to fishing boat wharves (8-9 NK).
Strommoya Island anchorage is a steep sided cleft (Chart icon, 5m). A great, grey, sea eagle; sea birds in pursuit; swept by. High above in their eerie, two eagles rest.
Fresh bread (Kniepbrod - 6 k [1 AUD]) a luxury. The "ICA" sign marked a visitors wharf for Bessaker village supermarket. Skipper noted it had fishermans fuel (cheaper). Knowledge is a past resource.
It seemed well; a rested night (5m). Morning: Sorkrakoya Island rocks, chain stretched, were 50m off Sahula's stern in a SW'ly gale, forecast to increase. Sahula moved to nearby, Roan village harbour (7m).
Norwegian forecasts list (metres per second [double for knots]) "light" as calm, "moderate" as strong, "fresh" as galeforce. Skipper, cautiously, adds 10 knots to a "moderate" report.
It is a lay day. "Moderate" and "fresh" SW'ly forecast for two days. A few miles south, Alesand enjoys sunny, fine days and light NE'lies.
Art Nouveau, with all its"... neo-classical and Gothic flourishes..." (Lomax, 160) marks Alesund. In 1904, a fire driven by a winter storm laid waste the cities mainly, wooden buildings. Germany's Kaiser Willem II immediately sent two aid ships. His statue survives despite subsequent German aggression. The city was rebuilt in three years. Economic depression ensured workers flocked in, bringing with them German, French, Dutch, English architects. Adorned with motifs such as an abstract owl (wisdom), dragons, eagles (protection) and sunflowers (French), roses (English), no reconstructed house (stone, cement) is the same. Built over hills, islands and around a compact, inlet harbour, it is a city of great beauty.
Sahula attracts friendly passerbyers interest (Boxing Kangaroo flag).
Skipper meets many young adventurers aspiring to fulfil the dream. They seek with years to do, what Skipper seeks with few.
"You sailed from Australia? How long?..."
Whats in a wave? Norwegian, Dutch, English, Dane motor/sail cruisers - all wave spontaneously.
Passing many Norwegian coastal ships - all immaculately maintained.
Large steel fishing "ships" rest in many village ports.
"They sweep their quota, then sit all year."
Sahula all sails set, cruises to Kvalsund anchorage
Anchor in Botnane inlet (6m) [Lomax, 146].
Overcast, rain, mist - radar, digital/ paper charts, AIS, visual - the eyes have it. Small dinghy fishermen at greatest risk. No nets are laid only fish trap bouys.
Anchor in Nyhamar (5m) - enclosed pool (Lomax, 137K)
There can be no peace more than a serene, forest enclosed pool.
It had to come - a danger so close. Sahula is in Fonnesstraumen, a narrow cleft, tide surging - unheard till metres astern, a 50m, passenger, jet driven, catarmaran ferry attempts to pass. Sahula is swept aside towards the sheer rock sides - passengers wave, unaware of pending disaster. Skipper recovers then a few minutes, unheard, another similar fast ferry surges close by at some 30 knots.
"Why no warning horn?"
"We know their schedule" - explains a local.
Large houses spread across islands on the approach to Bergen.
Sahula berths in busy, inner old harbour, alongside Dutch and French yachts.
"He is modest, never mentions it" - "it" is two solo circumnavigations by Dutch skipper - one non-stop, other Hobart stop.
"See you in Paris" - French crew (two adults, 5 uni students).
Skipper joins the tourists. "Queen Victoria" (Cunard) is in port. Escape to the art gallery and wanders the cobbled passages between historic, white, wooden houses.
Stave Church, built 1150; moved to Fontoft near Bergen 1853; 1992, Satanist arsonist struck. Rebuilt of unpainted pine, the exterior roof soars to evil defying, fire breathing dragons. A small tenth century cross is the only icon in the intricately carved interior. Outside and in, it is a superb, work of art.
Italian chamber music group played in historic Korstkirche. Pianist, violinist and bassoonist played Verdi with full Italian expression.
Inspiration could have no better home than Ole Bull's Lesoy Island.
Anchored in a calm, forested, pool - it is a creative, spiritual, inspiring, place. Sahula stayed three nights to complete a pastel art work, "Norway" and walk the many trails built for the famous violinist.
Hjellstad Marina supplied fuel (10.49NK).
"Hello, I want to go to Australia for winter, summer here. I have a small farm, fishing business. They introduced Canadian pines, taking over. I have planted only Norwegian trees." Australia - land of opportunity.
Norwegian cruising family and friends, welcome Sahula's return to Tanager (near Stavanger). Skipper returns hospitality with colourful pastel of "Norway."
Skipper's first Norwegian "painting," it captures the coastal ranges and light from Sahula.
"We remember from Indonesia, the red yacht..."
Norwegian crew live nearby after circumnavigation.
Skipper arranges to meet Australian crew in Oslo within three weeks. Unsure of late autumn weather, Skipper opts to press on. Farewell to Tanager, Norwegian friends.
Norwegian weather reports offer a two day window (of NW'lies) to round Norways most southerly, most notorious cape: Lindesnes.
"It was an experience..." says Sahula's crew of the gale when heading north.
Tanya (engine) drives, yankee (headsail) pulls, as wind increases.
An Australian yacht heads north - waves to flags. The only Australian yacht seen in Norway.
In 12 hours, Sahula sails past into picturesque, Lillehavn harbour.
"I was on Norwegian ships, we called at Australia. You've taken four years did you say... I'm retired now. We come here every year in our motorhome. It is quiet, peaceful and good fishing."
Skipper can now relax. There are no more weather prone obstacles to arrival in Oslo. Sahula can wend through the south coast, "skagaergard" (islands, rocks) almost all the way.
Next Report: Lindesnes to Oslo.
Best,
David
23/8/12
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