Passage Report: 86

Baltic Bound 2013- Ipswich to Kalmar, Sweden

Pre- cruise preparation is always daunting. Lists seem interminably long and only reluctantly shorten.

40 cm of snow on the decks didn't promote progress.

Sahula needed a reliable, ever present, "crew." "Arial" (Aries windvane) needed work and the centre cockpit wheel caused it problems. All resolvable but at a cost. As well, possible risk of rudder breakdown was absolved if the self steering was by separate rudder.

Skipper opted for a Hyrdovane self steering system (www.hydrovane.com). The high cost was offset by Arial's sale and VAT repayment.

Nothing is that simple. Every new item aboard creates new challenges, adding cost, extending the "to do" list. Not least, the solar panel frame is raised to accomodate the vane.

These were, in part, gratefully resolved by a marina, "committee of hydrovane owners." The other part is cruise use.

"Harry" (Hydrovane) is christened. "Audrey" (Autopilot tiller)use Harry's rudder and tiller to provide motorised self steering.

Constant weather reports are a cruiser's comfort. A new Navtex (Nasa Easy - large print) provides Sahula with 24 hour digital (HF) reports as it moves through the various Navtex regions. It adds to those on-line and on HF/ VHF radio. Over 2-300 nm offshore Winlink HF remains the sole source.

Blackened bottom, red polished freeboard, Sahula reclaims her sea berth.

A broad Australian accent annouces "Crew" is in England and keen to go. Aboard, electrical skills, find use. Final food, fuel and last list items.

Friends join for farewell drinks.

Crew castes off. Sahula heads down the Orwell (river), a beer at historic Pin Mill, onto Harwich. Like the Pilgrims before, the North Sea beckons.

True to form, it "beckons" with fair weather but ends opposite. "Mal de Mer" downs Crew. Time out required in Den Helder, Holland.

Depth Sounder and AIS are malfunctioning. Skipper's lesson: post - winter, test all electronics.

"We wish to board, Sir." A large black Dutch Customs/ Immigration launch looms alongside. Pleasant officers dutifully pass.

Sleep, Sturgeon tablets - Crew is revived. Sahula embarks on an overnight passage to the Elbe River.

A South Westerly fills Mollie (spinnaker/ MPS) driving Sahula past the Dutch, German Friesian Islands to Cuxhaven (hot shower!) on the Elbe.

Early morning, Sahula is lifted, Elbe to Kiel Canal, at Brunsbittel locks. The sun shines, rural green, mammoth ship steel walls, ducks, swans, peace, tranquility.

Rendsburg provides a friendly port approximately half way. Fresh bread, supplies, fuel, shower, washing, meal in town square, Stadthaus bells peel.

Holtenau locks lower Sahula to the Baltic. Crew takes "Ginger" tablets. NW'ly and Harry (self steering) sail Sahula towards Fehmarn Island enroute to the Swedish east coast. Night anchorage (4m) behind a sand spit, Heiligenhafen, bird sounds herald a sanctuary.

Sundowners (wine, crisps) welcome Skipper and Crew to the Baltic.

The Baltic is formed by a depression formed 3 million years ago. It is in continual movement due to land forms previously held by ice, now uplifting a metre/century. It is the world's largest area of brackish water. A cold climate, sea and decreased salinity impacts on natural diversity. First populated 11,000 years ago, todays, 85 million people further add to its detriment. Polluted (agriculture, industry cities, rivers)waters can take 25 years to replace. Impacting States have engaged international environmental law (Helsinki Convention 1974-1992) to ensure future protection.

A day/night passage to Sweden, starts with Mollie (spinnaker) ends with Tanya (motor) as the NW'ly abates on calm seas.

White wing tipped pidgeon circles Sahula, lands and circles again - welcome to Sweden.

Sky red, ruby, pink, grey, chill, calm sea, moon rises, "Harry" (self steering) sails Sahula through to morning port, Simrishamn - first port of call in Sweden.

Quiet, Sunday, Chai Latte (Kagen Cafe), Skipper sleeps.

Economic bite, meal ashore, beer - expensive.

Walk in stark budding forest, carpets blue, purple, into suburbia, wooden, pastel cottages, cobbled streets, white sails - window cameo of fishing heritage.

"We've changed course, going to Hano Island - too far to Karlskrona."

Sahula goose wings (wing on wing headsails) before the SW'ly, rolling, twisting.

Hano harbour, Baltic port for the British Baltic fleet during the Napoleonic war (1810-12) (defensible, strategic, escapable) is today, a quiet, small, fishing port. Sahula, alone, probably the first Australian yacht (200 SEK fee, (no fuel, food) Shower, toilet).

Crew trek to the lighthouse (Baltic's brightest -23 nm) across the barren rock.

English cross, cemetery, poignant testament to a sailor's arduous life.

Onto Karlskrona before SW'ly. Sahula enters islands to opening bridge (open on hour after notice +46 455 3322 40) and into marina.

Karlskrona, Sweden Navy HQ, World Heritage city, is quiet. Six Polish yachts, old, new, utilitarian, hold friendly crews on long weekend cruise. No fees, harbour master is on holidays - "Go to a nearby hotel."

Waynes Cafe yields internet and Chai latte and carrot cake.

Sahula's depth sounder is malfunctioning and needs replacement. Crew maybe "swinging the lead" (lead weight on line, walked bow to stern, depth called on striking bottom, cavity at base of lead extracts sea bottom material) till done.

Marine Museum displays national ship building and naval history. Wide boulavards, imposing architecture, wide city square, cathedral, evidence illustrious past.

Leonardi de Vinci Museum houses an orignal painting and an eclectic collection of art and artifacts.

Crew sunbakes behind cockpit covers, 8 degrees. Summer heralded?

Midnight, a knock on Sahula, "We would be honoured if you would join us for a vodka or gin...we very much admire you, you are our dream... we will understand if you do not come but we invite you to join us..."

Skipper rouses Crew. 20 young Poles (twenties, students, professionals) welcome crew aboard, raucous singing, Polish anthem, drinking songs, loud conversation. Vodka and Gin flow. Australian-Polish comaraderie - "We want to visit your country."

" I remember you said "I have been on many seas"... I will remember these words when I do sailing. We admire you...you must come to Poland, we are from Gdansk..."

"What do you think of our Baltic?" (It is cold.")

Crew excused at 0200.

Sahula's horn blasts announce departure to waving Poles. 10 nm through the "Skagarak" islands, sunny, cold wind, to an anchorage off Tarhamn village. A malfunctioning depth sounder keeps Sahula outside the small harbour (2-3m).

Sahula motors north to Kalmar in calm seas, against a light NW'ly. Skipper orders a new depth sounder to collect on arrival.

Kalmar is "...one of Sweden's oldest towns." It's cobbled street, well to do houses, baroque cathedral, resonate past and present wealth. It was a major port of the Hanseatic League (Baltic States trading association).

The well preserved, Kalmar Stott (castle), forbidding walls, green topped turrets, draw bridged moat - dominates the town. Home to royalty, the Union of Kalmar was signed there, in 1397, binding the crowns of Sweden, Denmark and Norway.

Attached to the marina (160/200 SEK facilities inclusive) is a superb ship chandlery (Baltic Skeppsfournering) which provides a new depth sounder, a crane and assistance. Sahula has to be lifted to install the transducer.

Next Report No. 86 - Kalmar, Visby (Gotland Island), to Stockholm.

Best

David

sv Sahula

Townsville.