Passage Report: 89
Stockholm to Aland, Finland
Sahula departs Stockholm, enjoyed but largely unseen. Swedish friends made it a memorable visit. The Vasa museum was outstanding if not overwhelming - a 17th century ship risen like phoenix - on display in all its glorious, shortlived, past.
Sahula would return to Stockholm in August, when summer prised open the autumn closed galleries and preparatory to cruising the Gota Canal to Gothenburg.
The Stockholm archipelago and Finland beckoned. The archipelago " you must see the islands..." is a common refrain.
"...you must have the guide (in english) to find the natural harbours..." ("natural harbours" are those where mooring is bow to the rock (with stern anchor) or anchoring, in unspoilt bays and coves). A guide is useful to find beautiful but popular places. However, when "sundowners" calls, there are so many anchorages that finding one, to enter, cautiously, isn't a problem. Experiencing the "unknown" trumps a "guide."
Sahula avoided the island shipping routes, preferring to wend through less used, often shallow, narrow, picturesque, channels.
Ido island provided the last anchorage in Sweden. It had easy access and clear water to enter the Aland Hav (sea).
"Pea soup" (dense) fog challenged departure. "To go or not to go," visibility was reduced to a quarter mile or less. Large, fast (20 knots) ferries and shipping added to the concerns.
It seemed to lift near midday, an AIS receiver (ships over 300 tonnes or with transceivers, register) and a radar, greatly increased detection. Stockholm Radio forecast its "lifting."
"We go..." Sahula headed into the "soup," radar detected ferries, a deep, moanful horn, heralded "Sahula" was ahead but passing to the side. A ghost, barely visible streamed by Stockholm bound.
Skipper was relieved to pass the light, heralding entry to Mariehamn, (marina free, till summer - 1st June) the capital of Aland, an autonomous, demilitarised, neutral, province of Finland. Aland was part of Sweden (600 years), Russia, from 1809 to Finland's independence in 1917.
The Aland -ese (some 30,000) are an independent people, they speak, Swedish, Finnish and Aland dialects. They have their own parliament, stamps, flag and taxation. Unlike "mainland" Finns they do not have to contribute to military service. Skipper shopped for an Aland courtesy flag.
"...you must come to Finland..." - Finn cruising friends, Sture and Gundel, (yacht Liv) met in India - it seemed an unlikely prospect.
However, their passage up the Danube inspired Skipper; Sahula followed to Holland, Norway and the Baltic.
Toasted with Vodka, the "unlikely prospect" became real; when Finn friends boarded Sahula in Mariehamn - many memories flooded in.
Skipper and Crew on hired bikes rode to Kastelholm (20km) through green, yellow wildflower carpeted, verdant fields and and forests to a 13th century castle.
"... the people are so friendly ..." (friends experience of time in Finland).
Skipper and crew with friends toured the maritime museum and the last, square rigged, four mast, cargo sailing ship, the majestic, "Pommern."
"Pommern" was part of the Gustav Erickson, square rigger, fleet (including "Pamir") that raced between Port Victoria, South Australia, loaded with wheat, via Cape Horn, for Falmouth, England. Local farmers held shares in shipping and fishing fleets. Today shipping provides 20% of Aland income and jobs.
With friends, an island car tour, highlighted its beauty.
Two St Petersburg rally yachts enter port. The Rally fleet, scattered across the Baltic, is gathering.
Sahula leaving the UK in colder April, with mainly southerlies, has avoided the, now dominant, northerlies.
As well, early arrival has avoided crowded marinas and anchorages and the increased summer marina fees, commencing on 1st June.
Sahula also has time to spare. Crew ferries to Tallinn to motorbike Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania. Skipper joins friends to visit their home town, Jakobstad and Lapland.
St Petersburg Rally yachts are gathering. Sahula "meets" two crews.
Sahula awaits in Mariehamn marina to continue to Helsinki in a week.
"Viking Grace" is the companies newest ferry.
"Is that all..." Skipper queries the 9 euro ferry fare.
"Grace" the pride of the Viking fleet is a cruise ship - restaurants, night club, koroake bar, casino, cabins and lounges - ensure a noisey, crowded six hours to Turku.
Skipper buses to Jabostad though modern towns and endless forests. Road kill Elk provide a risk.
150 years ancient, friends summer house - timber, two storey, scandinavian red, white - idyllic. Water is drawn from a well, wood stove, fireplace, beehives, wildflowers, vegatables and fruit trees set in a green, tall, birch, pine forest. Simple country life.
Inspires Skipper to painting (three watercolour pencil sketches).
"...put in spruce to yellow the meat... apple branches to decrease heat ... special timber to smoke...twenty minutes at 70 degrees..." - hung herrings, salmon slab, with champagne, a delicious lunch.
"...90 degrees is about right..." Skipper, Sture, "birthday suited," sweat in the steaming sauna, self flagilating using birch "brushes" (made by Skipper from forest cuttings").
"...now pour cold water..." - back to steam, birch beating, soap wash, steam, birch beating, cold water - a beer sitting in the sunshine - life is good!
"...I asked my father, what should I do..."
"...do something few do..."
"...I attended a furriers school in Stockholm...and went into the fur business..."
Fox farms surround Jabostad and Vasa - "...mainly for Russia and China..." - the fur design course explores the full potential in beautiful jackets, dresses and coats.
"... if you order a yacht, we will start in 2016...you tell us your ideas and we will build it..." Baltic Yachts using ultra modern sandwich, fibre techniques ( 50 to 175m) yachts built in halves and joined) build custom boats.
Swan yachts also built nearby build production line yachts. Both continue the strong sea traditions of Finland.
"...I can only spare 5 minutes... I am writing..." Some thirty minutes later, the museum director, guided a grateful, Skipper through the century old shipping history of the local Malm family.
She stood like furniture, a rose wood yacht hull, shimmering beneficiary of nine coats of natural varnish - in a shed of wooden boats - all shapes and sizes.
In beautiful photographs, The artist recorded (Vasa Modern Art Gallery the insane (M. A.D. - Mutually Assured, Destruction - 65 million USA citizens in a first strike), history of Soviet Russia's, Estonian, nuclear missle silos - a world best unknown, now reclaimed by natures full circle.
A duckling paddles by - new unfettered life - mother alongside, as Sahula prepares to leave Mariehamn and Aland.
Sahula, refueled, watered and stocked, steams between Finlands endless islands, through narrow, shallow channels to Huso Island - a beautiful cove surrounded by green forests. Sunshine encourages crew for a split second swim.
In the main channel, huge ferries rumble by in palable contrast.
Skype connects Sahula to family in the outside world.
The midnight sun ensures time is irrelevant.
Next Report No.90 - Helsinki to St Petersburg.
Best
David
sv Sahula
3rd June, 2013
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