Passage Report No. 93 Mariehamn, Aland to Sweden

Passage Report No.93

Mariehamn, Aland, Finland to Sweden

"...my boys (4, 6) saw you come in...they want to meet you..."

A delightful family boards Sahula, two boys, wide eyed, explore.

"...We have been to NZ and Australia..." Many Finns have - remoteness enjoins curiousity.

"...the boys (after) asked to learn English...we bought them a book...they want to go to Australia..."

Shrieking rigging - a symphony of a "1000" masts - "trapped" by a 30 knot NW'ly.

"...I reserved 1800...someone has taken "my" (washing) machine..." - tempers flail, facilities taxed - endemic marina madness.

Flag poles "flying" - England, Germany, Norway, Sweden, Poland, Estonia - no Australia!

"... he's travelled 5 years...(embarrassed harbour mistress) ... we have no Australian flag... we have never needed one..."

Walking the marina, Skipper notices that many yachts have no bow anchor or winch. They "anchor," bow line, to shore rocks, with a small stern anchor. The anchor (a small "bruce") is attached to a tape "rope" rolled onto a wire "cyclinder."

"... do you notice any difference between Swedish and Finland islands...?"

"...no..." - registers disappointment - each national islands are a national icon.

Inshore islands are forested over algae, peat covered rock; outer "skargard" is more windswept, bare. All have natures beauty.

Summer, maroon red, cottages inhabit most bays.

"Natural harbours" are identified in a Guide - crowded by the informed.

Scandinavian sailors generally prefer to congregate, either lined, bow to, across a rock face or in small island marinas or club bouys, enjoying BBQ's ashore, children playing.

 

Approaching a rock face they drop the tape line, stern anchor and slowly put bow lines ashore to steel rings (drilled into rock).

Sahala prefers to anchor off.

Sweden marinas have no sauna. They are a Finn phenomenon.

Archepelago astern, Crew standing on foredeck "...it is a privilege to sail into Stockholm..."

 

Wasahammen marina (300 SEK) welcomes Sahula.

Crew invites Skipper to a superb, restaurant dinner - departs "...I look forward to...my revenge with guitar lessons...all have been an experience of a lifetime...see you down under..."

Skipper visits Prins Eugens ("...the painter prince who favoured art over other royal pleasures..." (Lonely Planet: 64) Waldemarsudde - harbourside palace now art gallery - superb, inspiring, collection.

 

 

Two fresh, warm, rolls are left on deck. Dane crew, next boat, are baking. "...you are spoiling him..."

"...the Australian princess is very popular..."

At 0800 , they march, bags, towels shouldered - to the facilities - three showers, a full marina, 500 boats - it's social, communal - male, massed, queued, pink flesh - round, rolling, aged.

"...they have been excited all morning...", Casper (4), Ted (2) and Swede parents are aboard for the day. Beautiful bay, dinghy ashore, they pick wild blue berries.

Cruising life means many friends, many farewells.

An moonlit evening strolling the magnificence of Stockholm, so much to see, so unlikely to return.

 

 

 

 

Sahula departs in the early morning light, astern the great buildings, palaces, spires, recede into memory.

Through the Baggenstaket (narrow channel) to the southern archepelago and to Mem at the start of the Gota Canal.

It's midday, Sahula has been underway some 6 hours, an anchorage is found off route (en piste).

"Alchemist" (lead to gold), USA yacht crew is aboard for sundowners - boats, cruising, politics, family...

A swim, paddle on Bridget (paddle board) amongst the islands. Small yachts, motor boats, snug, bow to - families valuing time - occupy hidden bays.

The great, white, fleet is out en masse stretched along the inter island, charted, "pleasure boat routes." It is a cool, cloudless, sparkling, summer day.

Depending on wind, Tina Two (electronic) and Valerie (wind vane) guide Sahula.

Disaster: in a narrow channel, Skipper is distracted, Sahula veers, feet from a rock wall - hard a port - all is well. Skipper notes to not use Tina Two in busy narrow passages.

A walk in the forest - soundless - small birds flit - a calm, natural, silent, place.

Skipper sketches a ruby red sunset, indelible memory of Sweden's skargard (islands).

Sahula enters the fjord to Mem to begin a transit through Sweden's interior and largest lakes to west coast, Gothenburg.

Next Report: Gota Canal - Mem to Lake Vanern.

Best

David

sv Sahula