Passage Report: No. 101

June 2014

Across the Other Half: Ipswich to Paris

The ideal of cruising is not all roses. It involves long periods, travelling and remote from family and friends. Some cruisers overcome this by returning to home  every year. Being a visitor in family and friends lives while too short is invariably sweet. But their life intricacies are rarely visited, denying a closeness or a full parent role. When the cruiser requires a sympathetic ear, it is with little background built over recent time.

Skipper returned from Australia to Ipswich to prepare Sahula for the summer cruise through the French Canals to the Mediterrean. Tanya required a full maintenance overhaul – gearbox, tappets, clean water cooler, injectors. Parts ensured what was a week, turned to many. A new “standard” propeller was fitted. Skipper wrongly determined self feathering propellor failure , when it was worn gearbox cones. Canal cruising is hard work on the gears and propellor.

Medical issues with friend and family, settled Skipper to return to Australia for two weeks.

On return, engineer family issues and delayed engine parts pushed the French canal departure into weeks. Such is cruising.

"...could you comment on how one deals with apprehension when the ocean is confronting...?" (Australian friend).
"Apprehension or fear is part of the adventure life; the trick is to just do it, take the plunge having done what is reasonable care - don't listen to the naysayers. In fact, if there is a contrary that is a good reason to do it! Ninety percent stay at home, thank heaven! Always you can retreat  or return..." (Skippers comment).

Sahula departed in June. Ipswich and Ipswich Haven Marina had been a friendly, home from home.


Many wonderful memories of English family and friends accompanied Skipper motoring  down the lovely Orwell River, past historic Harwich (Capt. Cook departure port) to the North Sea.

A daughter joined for a calm, cold crossing: Ipswich, Dover to Le Havre.

Sahula had begun her long voyage across half the world, through the French canals to Marseille, the Mediterranean, Morocco, Canaries, to Caribbean, Panama, South America - across two oceans (Atlantic, Pacific) to Australia. It would take at least two years.

As if atoning the past North Sea (English Channel), Sahula in calm conditions, crossed from Dover to the French coast to a 0400 arrival at Le Havre.

Le Havre was destroyed by WWII Allied bombing. The rebuilt centre, a World Heritage site, has wide boulavards lined with white, yellow, pink shaded concrete, prefabricated buildings,  similarly designed,along wide streets; not unattractive, centred around a modernist, concrete church, topped by a huge sky reaching spire. Unusual, effective but seemingly heritageless, cold and bland. loved or disliked.


 The Art Musee of Malraux houses many impressionist works, in particular Monet – a Normandy man. His works stand out for their beautiful balance between creativity, colour and impression.

Le Havre marina (39e/night) has all facilities nearby the visitors pontoon. Tides vary considerably, practically draining the harbour.

The mast is removed by a mobile crane skilfully operated by the marina manager (140e). Skippers pre-made (Ipswich) timber supports thankfully fit.

It is debated whether to remove the mast in Le Havre or, up river, in Honfleur or Rouen. It is more convenient (and probably cheaper) to remove it in Le Havre.

However, a NW’ly swell, across the harbour entrance, required Sahula return to further tie down the supports. Charted shallows off the Harbour entrance, seemed to require Sahula to go further to sea, placing strain on the supports, threatening to lose the mast. This could have been avoided by crossing the shallows during high tide, gaining the protection of the harbour breakwaters.

Running with the tide is critical to avoiding swift (5-9 knots) currents on the Seine. An alternative is to enter the Canal de Tancarville from inside the Harbour and exiting along the Seine after Honfleur. Passage on the canal can take time as there are opening bridges and a lock into the Seine. Exit can dry out in high tides.

Sahula entered the lock (every hour, no delay) into Honfleur’s historic, heritage,  fishing harbour. Visitors can berth (36e/ night) soon after the lock or await the bridge raising into the inner “Vieux Bassin”. The Harbour master directed yachts to their visitors berth. Sahula was the outer of four yachts abreast.

Honfleur also caters to mast removal. It avoids the potentially rough sea passage.

Saint Catherine, (venerated in a 15th century, hill top chapel) is credited in saving Honfleur from "100 Year War" destruction and WWII. She was remarkably successful. Narrow terraces, in a myriad of shapes, colours and materials, overlook the harbourside, canopied, cafes. Streets, lined with heritage, radiate away. The many art galleries testament to its paintliness.

    " If you're an art lover, it's without doubt because of the impressionists. Perhaps you have heard of Eugene Boudin, the skies and clouds he invented were mirror  images of passing times. Stroll a random through the streets and you will find...a silhoutte, a corner of the street resembling a fleeting stole-image from Jongkind or Sisley.

    Wait for the morning when...the rising sun will offer.. the most extraordinary palette of pinks and greys...the magical caress of light on the slate... will confirm there is a Honfleur School of art..." (Tourist brochure).

It is the prettiest town...on the Normandy coast..." (English yacht skipper)

Skipper, from Sahula's deck, sketched the harbour avoiding the tourist crowds. Morning fresh croissant, Baguette,  a Fruits of the Sea dinner- food is France!

Music of Erik Satie, resident of Honfleur is honoured in his home museum.

Sahula stayed another day then returned through the early lock into the Seine, under the elegant web of the Normandy Suspension Bridge (World's longest).

Sahula stopped; making 1.5 knots against the muddy tidal turbulence that persisted  till midday. The current endures longer further up the river. Sahula was effectively caught moving against a later changing tide. When it changed (3 hours later), Sahula's 9.5 knots testified to its persistance.

The river cut through the low chalk white hills, lined with attractive villages and chateaus. Industry occasionally intrudes. Shipping and barges are frequent fellow travellers, their wash threatening Sahula's mast supports.


White swans serenely pass by.

Industrial Rouen heralded the historic city centre. The low bridges before the Municipal pontoons, requires having the mast down in the shipping harbour. A large, expensive, commerical crane is used and must be booked some days ahead. Skipper was  pleased to have done so in Le Havre.
The Municipal pontoons (22e - all facilities including washing machine - not working) are after the fourth bridge (Pont de Corneille) on the Ile Lacroix, in the left river passage, past a yacht club and commerical boat yard. It is a short walk to the city.

Where to buy the VNF canal "Viginette" (permit)? Rouen VNF office is five minutes distant, in the building before the bridge to city (per month 133.80e - 11-14m).

Rouen, city of impressionism "...Monet painted Rouen Cathedral 30 times..." homage to  the intricate facade...Turner, Pissarro, Sisley... many international artists...have painted...around the city to the point of obssession...", "...Gauguin..." painted 42 pictures"... in his eleven month stay..."
Ornately carved, statue adorned buildings evidence the Italian influence on early city architecture. Lining narrow cobbled streets, building, narrow, timber, stone, colourful, gravity defying; display a long, post Viking (Northmen) history.

Skipper from a hilltop, sketches into pastel, the city, blue evening panorama replicating (?)Monet, decades prior.

Place de Marq, vibrant, colourful, busy, Sunday market restocks Sahula.

Skipper finds the French peoples overwhelming friendliness and helpfulness, quite different to decades previous when response was langauge tested.

Daughter departs for Paris. Crew arrives, a young Frenchman (friend of daughter).

Numbered signage providing location is no longer. Villages provide no name signs. Guide provides photos of each bridge. There are no numbered signs for use in reference.

A weak flooding tide determines departure time.

Note for yachts: Navicarte and guide book, fuel stops are invariable unreliable; either  there is no barge or no water depth. Listed stopping places are also unreliable; usually too shallow, exposed to barge wash or non existant.

Barges (some pushing 3 barges) frequently pass. While arrows indicate the channel, minimum depth 3-4 metres is usual outside.

Sahula enters her first lock at Amfreville. French crew sweetens communication. Locks are large, commercial able to take two barges side by side. Surging inflow tests lines (spring, stern line using motor) and fenders, threatening the mast. Skipper learns to stay to rear of filling locks.

Green, white cliffs, villages - a rural, river, landscape.

Chateau Guillard (built 15th century, by Richard the Lionhart, King of Normandy), white, ruined, looms large over Les Andelys, picturesque village. Silted wharf denies stopping (1.2m -closed).

Through second lock (Notre Dame de la Garenne) and before sunset, Sahula anchors in side channel (4m) behind Ile Falaise. Red sky, rural, calm, peaceful, fish breaking, bird sounds: "Sundowners" ends the day.

Vernon, port for Giverny, Monet's home, pond and garden. A  yacht club pontoon beckons (16e, full facilities, no WMach). Sahula enters, aground in weed, retreats to pass between pylon and small island (6-7m) to go alongside motor boat.

Hector and Hermoine (two bikes) exercise to Giverny (3.5km), beautiful, tourist crowded, village of  Musee of Impressionists, Monet's colourful garden, lily pond and home.

Departure is delayed - engine water intake is blocked with weed. Remove, leave, again blocked. Remove at passenger ship wharf. The motor is best not used to exit Vernon pontoon!

After Mericourt Lock Sahula anchored behind Ile de Juziers (4m). Local warned of night barges. Critical to have anchor swing room. Channel sides are invariably rock. Calm, peaceful night.

Crew requires train to depart for Paris. Andresy "Halte Plaisance"  (4m) after Andresy Lock, in Bras d'Andresy has two visitor pontoons (free, toilet only- 72 hours, weedless!) opposite the Hotel de Ville.
Gare Andresy or Conflans provides Paris (RER fast) trains.

Andresy's Wednesday market nearby is ideal. Skipper works a pastel of Rouen sketch and photograph.
Crew 2 rejoins Sahula. Early departure for Paris. 

Large barges passing, keep ducks and swans and signets to offside lakes.

Into small boat lock: Ecluse de Bougival, through Ecluse de Suresnes, final lock before Paris.

Past suburbia, industry till "Le Defense" modernist, steel blue, architectural, spectacular high rise, looms over the river. Contrasting with the heritage Paris to come.

Pont (bridge) after Pont (22), adorned, gold, bronze, Greece, Rome, welcome the Paris to come.
A tower behind apartment blocks, looms "...is it the Eiffel...?"

Revealed, Champs of Mars sweeps from the Pont d'Idena's gated gold icons - Sahula is entering Paris.

Past the splendid opulance of the Hotel de Invalides, Musee d'Orsay, the Louvre, Palais of Justice, amongst the biscuit, white ornateness of city buildings, heralding France's past empire and Paris as "France" - seat of Kings, Emporers, Revolution - Liberty, Equality, Fraternity, Presidents.

To Ile de la Cite, Pont au Change's river traffic red lights, awaiting green to pass looming Notre Dame Cathedral to the locked entrance to the central city, Port du Paris - Arsenal Marina (51e/day, all facillities, token washing machine, wifi in harbour lounge - pleasant staff) at Bastille - esteemed for liberting prisoners initiating the French Revolution.

Sahula is in Paris. City of light, living and art.

"...do you have snails..." Australian tourists to Maitre de Restaurant.

"...coffee is cheaper inside..."

Rain, rain, rain, incessant tourisits, Parisans in cafes and art galleries, past and future. A city that never rests. Yet restful, comfortable, intriguing, vibrant, spatial, where busy boulavards join "...roads, canals, railways...centred...like spokes to a wheel."

Napoleon I-III connected Paris to wider France in the 17th - 18th centuries. Paris under Haussmann was opened to wide boulavards and present "...speed...eating away at the urban fabric..."

 Louis Chevalier (1976)"... hated people who liked Paris in ignorance of what it had been...to him Paris was a composite place built up over the ages, a picture book of superimposed transparencies, overpopulated by the dead and haunted by the ghosts of the living..."

Centre Pompidou - "...Cultural Centre, Modern Art Museum...an architect designed eyesore on a patch of wasteland...modern art because we already have the Louvre (President Pompidou)...compared to an oil refinery... which pleased the architects...it appeared to be permanently unfinished...made radical use of steel, plastic and colour coded utility tubes...a tubular exterior escalator..." - a building so incongruous, loathed or liked that it is accepted as the essence of a living, future orientated Paris.

"...a friend recommends the Tokyo Centre exhibition..."; "...our exhibition is not paintings..." - instalations, challenging the unknown future, ultra...destruction, chaos, space beyond the known. Is this art, philosophy, premonition??

Louvre Pyramid, Bastille Opera House, freeways - modern edifaces of a "...city hurtling blind into a forgotten future..." .

Montmartre, heritage home of impressionists history, now footpath artists welcome seething tourists, heckling immigrants, city vistas.

Visits by Parisian, Australian friends - superb dining in local cafes - Sorbonne, Jardin du Luxembourg, sunshine.

Sahula exits lock, enters Seine. Behind Notre Dame bids farewell. Sahula downstream turns into the Marne.

Next Passage Report No. 102 - Paris, Champagne to Haute Marne

Best
David
sv Sahula
June, 2014