Passage Report No. 106
Sahula
Port St Louis, Marseille, Toulon, Corsica to Palau, Sardenia

Crew is restless, sailing beckons. Tanya (engine) takes Sahula into the Gulf de Lion, "home" of the notorious Mistral so reputedly, the eastern Med's windiest waters.

Sail past a rock, cliffed coast to anchor in Grande Camaraque, Frioul Island off Marseille before a light NW. The Gods are smiling.

NW'lies prevail becoming the Mistral at times. The notorious Mistral determines all cruising in central Mediterrean seas. It flows out of the Gulf de Lion at some 30knots, raising short, steep, white seas. It affects west coasts of Corsica and Sardenia.

Skipper has digital weather reports (Passage weather - all Med, Meteorama.fr - central north Med, Digital 4D etc. All use grib files - a computer conceived report using arrows feathered to give wind strength.

Navtex also is aboard Sahula, providing weather updates for the region from shore stations in various Med countries.

VHF radio reports are only in French. Italian reports are in English but said to be difficult to understand.

French sailors, harbour masters are very helpful.

Crew leave Sahula at anchor to ferry to Marseille. Entry is between two forbidding castles into the Vieux (old) Port and its crowded marina and esplanade.


"...for many years the butt of French jokes. No more...it has had a vast makeover..." Lonely Planet.
Clean, old and modern, a centre of many cultures it is a fascinating city.


Ultra modern Musee des Civilisations de l'Europe et de Mediterranee contrasts the harbour entrance forts. It provides a well presented exhibition of life so long ago to the present.

"...on arrival in Tunis...I was marched to the ATM to pay the 200e visa fee..." (Australian sailors, Tina and Robert) "...we enjoyed Tunisia..."

Skipper ponders, no crew, visa issues, yet Africa beckons... decide later.

Sahula anchors surrounded by the white rock peaks of  Sormiou Calanque (inlet cum fjord), in the Calanques National Park. Long walks ashore trail up steep peaks, providing spectacular views to sea.

Wind increases, swings south west, dinghy on deck, Sahula, rocking, is ready for sea. Cautions (mast halyards (ropes) tied off) to ensure a nights sleep, in a place with weather, unknown. Local yachts seem unperturbed?

Calm anchorage off Ciotat with local yachts. All Calanques passed were crowded and rolly.

Sahula's anchor drags in seaweed. Skipper moves to find a sand bottom.

Anchors under red cliffs. Skipper works a watercolour. Crew sunbakes, swim in clear waters, snorkel, few fish. It is crew's last days aboard.

The Mediterrean's clear waters are due to lack of plankton caused by minimal tides or currents stirring nutrients. The lack of fish is due to few plankton and centuries of over fishing and shore pollution.
Crew's departure for Paris is nigh. Sahula moves to friendly, Toulon harbour marina (41e August - 33e in Sept).

Toulon harbours the French Med naval fleet (scuttled in WWII). It dominates the town. Crew find the city a pleasant, clean, old and new, culturally vibrant and properous, unlike its reported "...seedy, rough cut demeanour..." reported in Lonely Planet.

The 2006, Moet Chandon champagne celebrates a marvellous cruise across France and good times aboard for Father and Daughter.

"...we did it..." glasses click!

Last night, harbourside restaurant dinner.

Crew departs from the Gare (rail station). Skipper is alone. Sahula is a quiet place.

Skipper meets young French couple aboard their large yacht.

"...she is on the market...she isn't strong enough (for cruising)...we want one larger around, 57 foot (2.8 m draft) cruising yacht. Each to their own. Skipper ponders the delights of cruising denied (rivers, canals, small ports) and cruising funds used (buying, maintaining, marinas) on such an expensive craft.

"Go small, go simple, go soon" remains the basis of Sahula's adventures.

A force 7-8 Mistral is forecast. Sahula leaves for Rade (bay) de la Badine on Harbour Masters advice.

"...it is safe in any weather..." Mistral blows Sahula before a steep breaking sea to the bay.  Skipper awaits the arrival of daughter and partner, in a few days, in Toulon

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Skipper sketches (watercolour pencil) cliffs surrounding a yacht wreck. Timely reminder of fate if anchor drags.

Crew, young Australian, Matt, signs on for Mediterranean cruise. CA crew site generates interest in being Sahula's crew across the Atlantic. Skipper is grateful for their interest.

Skipper opts out of North Africa cruise, for sailing from Sardenia to Balaeric Islands ( Menorca, Ibiza, Palma), Spain and Morocco. A study of the Australian Government Foreign Affairs advice, urges caution due to possible terrorism (Australian Govt Middle East policies set up Australians as possible targets), Algeria requires a visa prior to visit, bureaucratic Algerian port entry/ departure; are factors.

Skipper extracts, cleans (bleach) a flexible, water tank, changes engine oil/filter, red paints canal "bruises," fits new port/starboard running lights, "third reef" sheet, skypes friends and family.

Daughter and partner arrive, final shop, fuel, fresh water in. Sahula departs for Ile de Porguerolles to rendezvous with Australian yacht, "Kristiane."

"...we see you, come in now..." Wine filled glasses click; Skipper and crew are with friends who sailed with Sahula from Australia. Sahula may meet again in Spain.

A NW'ly forecast, full moon, Sahula departs early morning for Corsica some 116 nm. It will be crews first, long distance, overnight, passage.

Winds comes, goes, Tanya drives, sails (including Mollie (MPS/ spinnaker)) up, down; NW'ly sets 17-20 knots, lightening cracks to the east, mainsail down, calms, Tanya takes Sahula into Calvi, Sahula's Corsican port of entry.

Sahula enters the marina (43 eu (Sept)) under the massive, ochre stone walls of 15th century, Genoese, Calvi citadel and village. Restaurants, superyachts, line the wharf of a busy  harbour and vibrant tourist town.

Facilities ashore earn 2/10 - public (not private to yachts), no loo seat, small shower cubicles.

High over the harbour, proven invincible, the Citadel "...has seen off several major assaults...from Turkish raiders to Anglo-Corsican armies.

It houses parts of the French Foreign Legion administration. Established in 1831 by King Louis- Philippe to deploy in Algeria. Initially deploy in Crimea, Italy, Mexico. Currently, as a part of the French Army, the Legion serves in many fields overseas. Units distinguish themselves adhering to their oath to "...fight to the death..." They engender a "...powerful esprit de corps...military values..." as part of "...a family..."
Comprising 7200 men, 89% foreigners (150 nationalities - currently predominantly, Slavic and Balkan), legionaires can join at 17 with parently consent, older require only a simple statement of identity. It appeals to those who "...want to turn a page in their life...want a new start..." French is not required. It recruits some 800 from 8000 applicants each  year.

In a Citadel village square, Senegalese, Malick Sow and Bao Sissoko provide traditional, evening, music.

 In the village Cathedrale St Jean Baptiste, a male ensemble, sings, movingly, in perfect harmoy, 12th century, Notre Dame de Paris, chants.

Ruled by Pisa (to 13th C), then by Genoa till 1755 Corsican's declared independance. It was "shortlived," France crushed the insurrection (1769), and ruled to date with a short England rule between 1794-96. In 1960's, autonomy and later full independence movements, fought a violent insurrection which splintered into groups. "...few Corsicans...support the separatist movements. A 2003 "...greater autonomy..." referendum was ,narrowly, lost. Nationalism remains a "...burning topic..." mooted by the islands critical tourism economy.

Strong winds required the marina boat to push Sahula into wider waters. She departed in Force 5-6, expecting large seas. Instead, a low sea allowed Tanya to drive Sahula south along the coast.

"...there are yachts over there..." Sahula entered a sky blue bay - swim, lunch, snorkel.

"...Dad, the wind has dropped...other boats are leaving..."

Sahula, motor sailed south, past bays, engulfed by red, ancient weathered cliffs and receding blue, precipitous peaks (Monte Cinto 2700m - Corsica's tallest). The onshore wind ensures few anchorages.

Red turned to ruby, cedar, purple, as sunset found peaks and tortuously sculptured, volcanic, cliffs. Sahula sought shelter in Golfe de Girolata.

Girolata Castle guarded the entrance to the calm inlet of picturesque, Girolata village harbour (31eu on bouys).

Wine, pasta - life is good.

Sahula motors south against a 22 knot Westerfly in a moderate sea, to Golfe d'Ajaccio and anchors off a suburban beach.

Customs (third visit in France) come but not aboard as form from Port St. Louis is recognised by them.

A NE'ly sweeps Sahula south. Red cliffs change to white. Only a ferry entering defines Bonifacio harbour entrance. Sahula passes through a narrow entrance, between the cliffs and high ochre white, walls of the Citadel and enclosed village.

Huge, gleaming, white, superyachts, bows, grossly, jutting, English flags flying, crews scrubbing, dominate the long, narrow harbour inlet. Skipper wonders what owners have done to provide a better, more equal world?

The harbour boat guides Sahula to her berth. Bonifacio is two villages - lower and upper.

Narrow cobbled lanes wind through the Citedal village.

Wind is up, Sahula sails to Sardenia across the Bonifacio Strait, to the northern  group of islands in the La Maddelena marine park (50eu a day, 40% less if online permit).

Anchorage is in clear, blue water (few if any fish), sea grass and sand, islands pink, white rock. Anchorage is crowded with boats.

The prevailing SE'ly prevents access to many bays. Most bays have houses or a resort.

It is time for crew to leave. Sahula sails to Palau, ferry port for the islands (21e, all facilities 6/10).
Sahula is quiet. Matt, crew to Morocco arrives in two days.

Next Report: No. 107: Sardenia, Balaerics, Spain, Morocco.
Best
David
20/9/14