Passage Report 20

Singapore to Malaysia

Synonymous with culture shock is Singapore. Across the teeming ships plying their special lanes, out of the murk, rises the Singapore's high rise. Symbols of the economic success story or precursors to human madness. It is hard not to feel the latter when exiting by yacht from Indonesia.

Today it is in the distance. Sahula is entering Malaysia, heading to the Sebana Golf Resort and Marina. The marina is located past the mass anchored ships, on a winding river in the jungles of Johor. It's culturally a long way from Indonesia.

Its set alongside a manicured golf course, harbours a crystal blue swimming pool and berths in calm waters. It's the ideal place to stop, rest and gather the threads in readiness to confront its city neighbour. Staff are friendly and efficient. Noticeably, immigration and vessel entry is a five minute affair; and free.

Sahula is among friends. She's berthed alongside Catala, crew and good friends; Garth and Janine. Many of the fleet seek similar refuge. All adhere to the maxim, "cruising is doing maintenance in beautiful places."

On Sahula, the list seems endless. Tanya needs a warranty service; deck needs painting and a myriad of small things need attention.

The attention has to be shared with daily rain and thunder as the monsoon passes overhead.

Days pass with tasks aboard running sweat in hot muggy days to luxuriating in the clear blue poor. It's a 12 hour sauna.

A visit to Singapore erases any doubts about big city life. The trains (MRT) and buses spirit milling millions to a multitude of destinations. Shopping is a core activity in an amazing array of small businesses. They're housed in skyscrapers peering above

a freeway tangle. The clinical cleanliness and oily efficiency of a city orientated to do business, is remote, even cold.

A day is enough. The new crew, Chris flies in from Adelaide. She joins skipper in returning to the sanctuary of Sahula for a three week vacation sailing the Malacca Strait and the west coast of Malaysia.

Finally, the magnetic comfort of marina life is broken; Sahula departs Sebana for the west coast and Malacca.. It is good to be under way again.

Before the west coast, Sahula had to pass Singapore's massed skyscrapers and merchant fleet. It seems half the world's ships are anchored or in the port.

Kupuk village provided the first nights anchorage. It's built on stilts over the water, home to fisher families, whose men folk ply the shallow waters in traditional long boats. They cheerfully wave as Sahula enters the harbour.

Brash, ultra modern Singapore lines the horizon.

Once again fishing buoys and nets are an obstacle to navigation.

Word goes out that renewed vigour from pirates threatens coastal passages.

Sahula leaves Kupuk in rain, wind and threatening lightening. Lightening strike is a major concern. Steel boats are reputed to be better protected but a direct strike could take out all electronic and electrical equipment.

The long hot day lengthens into an overnight passage: motor sailing in fine weather, few fishing boats, nets, buoys and not a whiff of pirates. Sahula stays well out of the mega-fleet plying the Malacca Straits.

Admirals Marina beckons nearby Port Dickson. It's another Malaysian mega- resort, encircled by high-rise (empty) apartments. Overdevelopment seems to be a mark of Malaysian progress.

Skipper and crew plan a two day excursion to Malacca.

Malacca is blessed with an ancient history and culture recognized in its World Heritage listing.. It's thrived since pre-European colonization. A trading port since time immemorial. A visitor can reflect upon the waves of invading, Portuguese, Dutch and English armadas and armies. Before them, the great trading fleets of Chinese Admiral Cheng Ho who in 1421 sailed to establish trading links in Africa, Middle East, and Asia. There is evidence his fleet also reached America, Europe and South America.

His fleet comprised 200 odd ships, some of 500 tonnes, manned by 27,000 crew. He spearheaded a Chinese hegemony based upon trade and Confucian principles of goodwill, peace and harmony. One ponders what a different world it would have been if soon after his return, China had not withdrawn behind "closed doors," allowing European dominance. His exploits are recalled in the Cheng Ho Museum, a superb tribute to his travels.

Strangely, while there is a Malacca River its mouth is too shallow so ships anchored off in a roadstead are serviced by barges.

The return trip detoured to Sri Menenti, a royal city located in the mountains of Negeri province. The Royal Palace is a large imposing wooden traditional building set in gardens. It was built without nails. It's now a museum as the Sultan is no longer in residence.

Another day of no wind after Admirals Marina. Sahula passes a coastline pitted with the wharves, industry and tourism's high rise on her way north to Kuala Lumpur's huge Port Klang. It seethes with shipping, containers and anchored vessels.

Remarkably, Sahula passes by two beautiful, three mast, square riggers at anchor, both registered in Port Klang.

Again a day of no wind. Sahula sights no pirates, few fishing boats, and much massed shipping. Large logs pose the only threat to navigation. Society's flotsam and jetsam floats by in an endless stream. The pollution is more evident than in Indonesian waters.

Reports say at Port Klang yacht club the rubbish included dead bodies: one human another, a cat. It seems Malaysian seas reflect the degradation of the land.

Tanya (engine) drives on in calm, oily seas to Pangkor Island near Lumut. The anchorage is a sign of good things to come. White beaches and blue milky water, line jungle clad hills.

Pangkor Island's god is tourism. Resorts "litter" the white beaches. Leisure, long regarded as western concept is no more. In Malaysia, resorts, high rise apartments and restaurants on every beach bare witness to the rising tide of "prosperity" and leisure time.

Skipper and crew hire two motor bikes to tour the island.

It's ever onward to Penang.. Sahula departs Pangkor in rain and squalls. Wind shifts, motor sailing and shallow water mark a normal days sailing in Malaysian west coast waters.

Sahula arrives, in the evening light, passes under the spectacular Penang bridge and berths at Tanjong Marina alongside historic Georgetown, Penang. It's next door to a large ferry terminal. Sahula "enjoys" a night of continual movement in the "calm" of the marina The marina has no seawall to protect it the wake of passing car ferries.

Sahula's crew disembarks to feed the Adelaide mortgage. Skipper returns to solo status.

Georgetown, Penang is a World Heritage listed old trading port set up by the British in the 1700's. The town is similar to Malacca but much busier with cars and motorbikes careening through the narrow streets. High rise threatens the listing. Chinatown and Little India are bustling, noisy sub-cultures bristling with restaurants and small businesses. Skipper tours a historic Chinese tycoon's house now a museum for invaluable Asian antiques, furniture, glass ware, pottery, intricate carvings and needlework.

The western claim to a superior culture is laid bare.

An agent arranges for a Thai visa for Skipper. If obtained outside Thailand it is for two months and extendable.. If given on arrival it is only four weeks and not extendable. Bureaucracies work in wonderful and mysterious ways.

Skipper enjoys a traditional Chinese fish restaurant with Gus and Gabby (Pampero) and next evening, with Thomas and his crew (Nahda Brahma). The variety of plates beggars the imagination. A later walk through Little India is an ear battering cacophony of the sounds and colours of the mother country.

Skipper enjoys a long overdue chat to family and friends. The world is a small place.

Penang's city and beaches, a forest of high rise, fade into the distance. It is good to be at sea again bound for Langkawi. It is a sea churned by a 20-25 knot, NE monsoon. Tanya pushes through in another frustrating day of motor sailing.

There are rewards. Sahula is amongst the Langkawi islands. Steep jungle clad limestone peaks drop steeply in colourful cliffs that end in eroded caves in an azure blue sea. Sahula anchors in the "fjord,"under a huge cliff, jungle tumbles down, monkeys fossick on the beach, colourful birds shriek by, eagles soar amongst the peaks. All is calm in utopia.

A day passes with friends. We motor to visit Maidens Lake, reputed to restore a maiden's fertility. A freshwater swim in the inland lake formed after a massive limestone cave collapsed in ancient times. We do so with massed tourists. Afterwards we explore limestone sea caves finding stalactites, calcium curtains and resting bat colonies.

Next day, skipper, inspired by the beauty of the islands does some painting. Life is good.

Sahula now waits for Tanya to have her warranty service. After the service, Thailand beckons with similar islands and crystal clear water.

David

Sv Sahula

29th Nov., 2008