Passage Report 21

Langkawi to Phuket

December, 2008

One of the joys of the sailing lifestyle is meeting up when least expected, with crews from past voyages. Lindsay on Avolare, came aboard after Sahula anchored off Kuah, the main town of Langkawi Island. He was last met in the Goldsmith Islands on the Great Barrier Reef. Since then he's cruised to Hong Kong, the Philippines, and Indonesia. His boat is same Van de Stadt design as Sahula.

A seasoned Asia cruiser, his visit provides a mine of information on Langkawi and Phuket.

It seems myths are fact or fact is a myth. A myth is that Asia is cheap. The Asian Tigers have gained western economies. Boats planning to use haul-out facilities are finding Australian level costs. A fact is that food and fuel remain inexpensive.

A myth is that crystal clear waters abound in fish. Fact is that the waters of Indonesia, western Malaysia and Thailand are fished at an unsustainable level. They are well underway to being oceanic deserts. Waters are rarely crystal clear. Coral reefs are largely destroyed by fish bombing or nets. Plastic pollution is rife. The rivers, seas and oceans exhibit the community sewers. A fact is that the seas and oceans are in dire straits.

Sahula planned to move quickly onto Thailand seeking clear waters. Thailand's inshore waters repeat Malaysia's. Clearer waters await in the islands well offshore away from rivers, streams and cities.

The untrammeled natural oceanic world is receding into almost mythical pockets open only to adventurous yacht cruisers.

Kuah, Langkawi's largest town, supplies most needs yet missing Penang's incessant traffic and noise. Its shops reflect that Langkawi is Malaysia's only duty free region. Amongst yachties it has supplanted Phuket as the restock port. Sahula is anchored off to have Tanya (engine), warranty serviced and to restock. A French engineer, Jean Pierre Dortz, does an excellent service. Tanya is smiling. An extra present is four new batteries. She is ready for India, the Red and Med.

A feature of Kuah is the Pier Bar. A welcoming and pleasant place. It is a magnet for sailors seeking common company. It's a western "island" in a sea of Asia. Beer reflects the world's breweries. Components of its customers are single, Asia-phile males. Refugees from life's travails. They embrace the warm weather. They reject western economies. Their boats, mostly small, reflect their income. Conversation is boating, boating and .... and their Asian nirvana. Travel outside Asia is incomprehensible.

Skipper receives news that a friend and relative has been killed in a fall while climbing Mt Aspiring in NZ. The accident recalls Skipper climbing days in the region and intense sadness for his loved ones. However, while the result is not one anyone would seek, at least in retrospect there would be an adventurer's satisfaction of knowing, that in accepting all the risks of adventure (mountaineering, sailing) a life has been lived to the fullest.

It seems to an outsider, that generally, one part of society here, women, do not lead "life to the fullest." Their religion dictates that every day, hot or cold, their round faces peek out of a head covering and that they wear long clothes. They do so with considerable elegance. Even at the beach, they swim in the same clothes alongside males in togs. It seems to be a male world. In response to a comment that women didn't seem very happy or welcoming, the reply was that women don't engage in casual

eye to eye contact with males. Generally, there is none of the spontaneous smiles and greetings so prevalent in all levels of Indonesian society. It seems to confirm that life there is more in balance and that prosperity and a dominant politico-religion, struggle to provide the full life. A cause for some hope is that the local newspaper evidences the substantial contribution women make in local and state politics. The same newspaper reported a controversy over a fatwa directing the faithful to abstain

from yoga. The role of religion in politics seems to be in evolution.

Obesity is a major issue in this part of the world. If the supermarkets, large or mini, are any guide the solution is obvious. Row on row contains highly packaged "junk" food. Health food seems to be non-existent or costly.

Sahula departs Kuah for the Fjord anchorage and Teluga Harbour on Langkawi Island. Skipper is told that departure can be processed at Teluga. However, the information did not include that officials would be taking a two day public holiday. A lesson learned to cross check information. It is a pleasant if not odd place. Sahula is anchored outside Teluga marina. The marina is another example of a dream gone wrong. At one end are moored huge private, glitzy, "white" ships, at the other a motley array

of international cruising yachts. The newly painted "harbour village" is largely untenanted, the restaurant's deserted and alongside, a half built, too large, European design, multi-story hotel. A cable car (and summit restaurant) climbs the otherwise spectacular mountain backdrop.

Skipper decides that hiring a motor bike is too confronting on busy holiday roads. Nevertheless, wait has its benefits. Sahula is refueled (approx 80cents a litre at Service Station [ not marina)), re-watered and made ready to depart. A bushwalk then swim and peaceful read on a small island beach take up the sunny day.

Early morning finds Sahula finally heading to Thailand. It's a fine day with a moderate NNE'ly. Sahula is in company with Malin (Erling and Kari), a Norwegian yacht. Tanya's retired, sails up and skipper enjoys some of the best sailing since Australia. It only lasts an hour. Skipper has received the superannuation funds annual report. Not good news. Sailing is in, motoring is out. A few tacks and Sahula is anchored off Tarutao Island.

Another day sailing. Mollie (spinnaker) is flying. Wind pumps in, drops, dies then rises in another direction. 100's of fishing buoys play Russian roulette. There are few sea birds and most notably much less plastic pollution.

It's a marine sculpture "park of great beauty. Sahula passes some of nature's most spectacular works. Limestone peaks (karst), rise some hundreds of meters to drop in spectacular cliffs adorned in hanging jungle. Ko Phedra is exhibit one. A knife edge, the "ko" extends half a mile. Sahula's mast almost touches the cliff towering above. Two eagles soar over the tops.

Sahula anchors at Ko Muk to view the "emerald" cave. The entrance is inauspicious. A low oyster encrusted hollow in amongst many apparent caves. It's marked by buoys. Skipper in ANE (dinghy) rowed in. It is 80 metres long. Daylight soon turned to inky blackness amidst much hissing and grumbling from seawater surging through the cave.. It was not for the faint hearted. A torch revealed the tall roof lined with bats, stalactites and limestone curtains. Light was gratefully seen which soon revealed

a perfect beach surrounded by sky soaring cliffs adorned in hanging jungle. It was indeed an inner world, a hidden emerald garden.

This jewel has been used by locals for taking the swallow nests. As well pirates hid their loot. Now tourists have replaced the swallows. Skipper, alone, reveled in the silent beauty.. Not for long, the beach shows that tides would cover the cave. It is a rising tide. ANE gets lost. Ahead is a cave beach with waves breaking seemingly huge in the reverberating noise. Soon the entrance is found. Relief is palpable. .

Sahula sails for Phi Phi Don. The propeller crunches a fishing buoy's line. Tanya is stopped, all sail is taken in. Skipper dives down to inspect the propeller. All is well.

Phi Phi Don is a key tourist hub. It is strikingly beautiful anchorage. "The Beach" was filmed on nearby Phi Phi Le. Skipper meets Jay and Jodie (Makani Kai) and Brian and Brenda (Galiano) for a meal ashore and is confronted by surging, noisy streets of gaudy restaurants, shops, internet cafes, hotels, bars and clubs, populated by young Europeans. By day, an armada of "long tails" (a colourful, traditional fishing boat with a noisy, diesel engine, mounted astern, above deck, attached to a long propeller

shaft.) ply the strait to Phi Phi Le to view the film site. The experience of traditional Thailand is a Thai waiter.

Phi Phi Don suffered great loss of life and property in the 2004 Tsunami. Only local memory and a monument (out of sight and out of town) remain. Everything is focused on the economics of tourism.

Skipper goes ashore next day to re-stock. Thai staff are uncharacteristically unwelcoming, probably the impact of serving thousands of youthful Europeans.

Sahula motors across to Phi Phi Li island. A strikingly beautiful natural sculpture, its towering limestone cliffs hold huge caves and are separated by deep gorges. Sahula takes aboard a buoy in a cliff surrounded bay with a white beach. It was site of the Leonardo Di Capiro, film "The Beach." By day it's seething with Phi Phi Don's tourists. Sahula stays overnight. Skipper enjoys a snorkel, diving through an underwater arch behind the boat. Evening peace is savoured sipping a wine to a setting red

orb.

To a morning, moderate NE'ly; Skipper casts off, mainsail up, headsails drawing, Sahula lopes over calm seas to Ao Chalong, the anchorage for Phuket. The yellow quarantine flag below the red, white and blue, Thai flag marks the end of Stage 2 (Stage 1, Australia-Singapore) of Sahula's global adventures. Sahula will now enjoy the many islands of Phang-Nga Bay and Xmas before crew joins on the 31st December for the ocean passage to India in early January, 2009.

David

Sv Sahula,

Phuket,

Thailand

16th December, 2008