Passage Report 30

Side, Lycian Coast and Oscar the Rat (RIP)

The comfort zone in marinas is an illusion. Otherwise know as "port rot," it beguiles the rudderless cruiser into becoming a "resident" yacht. The ropes become chains.

Its existence is confirmed when the shackles are off and a passage is underway. Sahula left Alanya with a rare southerly. Mollie (MPS - spinnaker) strained before it. The wall of Mammon, God of tourism lined the coast.

The ancient city and harbour of Side (7 BC) (28 nm from Alanya) ( Roman, Byzantine) occupies a small headland free of high-rise hotels. The Temple of Apollo welcomes the seafarer to the old harbour (crowded with tourist "gullets"). Sahula opts for the calm westerly bay anchorage in 4 metres, close to shore.

The Side ruins provide a layout for a complete town from entrance gate to colonnaded streets, past an agora (market), a large theatre (15,000 ), palaces, churches and houses to the harbour. Aqueducts conveyed fresh water 29 km for public baths, fountains and cisterns. Amongst the ruins, Mammon's hotels, shops, touts and restaurants, beset the scene.

Oscar lives another day. Sticky pads set him free.

The southerly (under 10 knots) persisted, Mollie strained again to Kemer anchorage (well protected, 4-5m among Gullets) in the eastern bay just outside the marina. The town has no mention in Lonely Planet.

It's been a long time since Sahula enjoyed slipping along, sailing in light winds.

Sahula is here to ensure Al (outboard) has enough fuel. Kemer Marina is highly reputed. It looks classy. It would be noisy. The decibels blast out of the surrounding tourist night spots.

The standard recipe for Russian and Scandinavian tourists: massed block multi-storey hotels with crowded swimming pools ringed with recliners; streets of clothes, souvenirs, tour agency, food, shops and endless restaurants; a thin strip of beach lined with rows of colourful recliners and umbrellas; parasail speedboats, Gullets (large traditional motor vessels) crammed occupants dancing to loud pop music; loud dance night clubs sporting laser beams. The original town and community are lost. The natural and cultural environment is irrelevant.

On a crystal clear morning the high, steep, rocky, mountains provide a spectacular backdrop to Kemer.

Oscar lives another day. Avoiding the sticky pads he munched the banana and cheese on the traps.

Along a coastline walled by Mammon to Phaselis. The ancient anchorage crowded with noise pumping Gullets. Sahula again met Hinewai. It's an open, calm weather anchorage.

Phaselis was a maritime city founded (690 BC) on three natural harbours surrounding a defensible headland (similar to Side). Today, a pine forest and undergrowth hides its ruins.

The prominence of the city is highlighted by Hadrian's Gate (a ruin) built to welcome the Emperor as he moved up the colonnaded, white marble, main "street" to the center. A population of some 2-3000 welcomed the various invaders; quid pro quo, to their continuing as traders. Trade ensured Phaselis prosperity and longetivity. The amphitheatre housed some 1000.

Skipper followed the Lycian Way (red paint marks) through the necropolis and pine forest to the nearby highway.

Spectacular Mt. Olympus (Turkish version) (Tahtali Dagi) background Mammon's work. A summit chairlift eases Mammon's journey. Tanya takes Sahula (in company with Hinewai) to ancient Olympus at Cirali Limani (harbour). It is for locals who have ruled against high-rise hotels. It's an open, at times unsettled, anchorage.

Olympus's ruins are in a steep valley through the mountains. Ships berthed in the city centre,, entering by a river now silted up. Forts at the river mouth guarded entry. Cicero described it as a"... city noted for its riches and works of art..." (Guide). An earthquake (129 AD), conquering armies and pirates ensured that only overgrown ruins remain. The ruins are substantial. Evidence of a large city. Similar to Phaselis, the amphitheatre is small. Side theatre accommodated 15000, similar to Aspendos.

Today the crowded beach ignores the ancient city.

Supplies are available in Olympus holiday village or Cirah.

Chimaera's eternal flames, (gas flames emitting at various points over a football field size area), visible from sea, are where Bellerophon, mounted on his winged horse, Pegasus, defeated the Chimaera a mythical fire breathing being, part lion, goat, snake (Lycian Way guide). The Oxford dictionary: "Chimera,-aera" thing ...of fanciful conception"

Skipper (with Hinewai's crew) at night, hired a bus (60 TL from the first ("Olympus") beach restaurant).

Sahula welcomes holidaying locals aboard: Ergan (surgeon), partner (art teacher).

High above Olympus, its citizens sought refuge from pirates. They built the city of Phoinikous (Upper Olympus). Skipper followed the Lycian Way (Guidebook and map) (start at necropolis across river opposite car park, follow red/white track marks) steeply up through closed, then open forest. Allow a day. The reward: escape from Mammon, spectacular views, the ruins of a substantial roman city constructed on a rocky hill top in huge stone blocks containing streets, an agora containing three large, underground, fresh water tanks (25 feet deep) various houses etc.

A cistern at a nearby Shepherd's hut provides water (take purifying tablets). A clear felling forestry operation has damaged the trail at the summit.

Whilst exploring the ruins, daughter Nicola skyped the mobile. Small ancient world.

Cineviz Limani (half an hour from Olympus) is a protected anchorage with no hotels. "Protected" by high rocky mountains and calm, azure, clear water. It is nature at its finest.

Note: Sahula anchored on the inshore side of the bay to avoid the Gullets. An evening breeze (NW) may set a chop entering the bay. To lessen its effect, while closer to the Gullets, it may be best to anchor on the other side with a line ashore. The wind in the bay can vary 360 degrees.

Skipper maneuvers Sahula's first chain anchor with two aft lines ashore. Sahula is here for a few days, Skipper's first stopover anchorage to rest, swim, read and paint (and find Oscar who has nibbled Skipper sea boots and various items but not the traps).

The summer fleet arrives, two large (70 feet), luxury, private motor boats, "Quiet" gullets, private traditional Turkish launches.

For the active, a walk past the restaurant, up the hill on the right to the rock bluff has scenic rewards. Ruins behind the beach and on the bluff's summit, are testimony to an

ancient past. The walk continues past the bluff to the saddle for spectacular views into Sazak Limani and along the precipitous northern coast.

Sazak Limani is an alternative to Cineviz Limani. It is a few minutes on by following the northern coast.. It is an enclosed inlet. A NW'ly sets in a swell. Anchor off hut in northern bay. Gullet's anchor there. It's reported to have poor holding at anchor.

Turkish waters exhibit substantial, plastic pollution. There are few, if any, large fish, some turtles, and few sea birds. Generally, the waters have excellent visibility.

Musketelle arrives. A family, "summer" restaurant offers a meal ashore with superb coastal views. (22TL). The fish is dry, the chicken is tinned. Rating: 3/10.

Skipper works on the Alanya painting.

Oscar hasn't been enticed by "goodies," traps or pads for three days. Skipper hopes Oscar has abandoned ship but...further evidence of nibbled items. The death sentence is passed.

"Hello, are you David," "Yes; I am a friend of Ozkan." The swimmer, Hasan, a SunAir jet pilot and partner Fulya (Antalya University professor, management) are cruising aboard their yacht "Fulyam" from Antalya. Hasan had followed Ozkan's solo circumnavigation in a monthly article in a Turkish yachting magazine. One issue had an article on (and photo of) Skipper assisting Ozkan (typhoid) in Indonesia. A delightful lunch aboard "Fulyam".

Skippers fourth day. Skipper is debriefing from past need to move on, to whimsical. "why move" cruising.

Two colour pencil sketches of coast and mountains.

Oscar lives despite Skipper chasing him around the saloon. Ratsak (poison pellets) is laid - R.I.P but... Oscar shows disdain by, early morning, bouncing across Skipper asleep (almost) in aft cabin.

Every anchorable bay is Gullet prone. Turkey's coastline in summer (July - August) is a holiday camp. Sahula caught the early morning NW'ly (on the aft quarter) to sail to Gokkaya Limani at the entrance to Kokova Roads. It is prime Gullet and charter yacht "country." A plethora of anchorages, each as beautiful as the next.

Sahula bypassed Finike (32 Euros, marina). Budget restraints rule out marinas. Natural anchorages are many. Stores are available at Kokova villages.

Skipper weakens, a delightful young lady. Three handmade bracelets are added to the growing "Daughters Glory" box : shawls (Indonesia) perfume (Oman), perfume (Egypt), Papyrus paintings (Egypt), bracelets (Turkey).

Drinks aboard Kirsten Jane (English world cruisers Keith and Carol). Paddle on Bridget (surfski).

Day for checking anchor winch, "Sikaflex" the dinghy leak (it worked!!), complete colour pencil drawings: Cenevic Limani (High Peaks) (Mt Olympus), Sizak Limani.

Oscar the Rat (RIP??)

Oscar embarked in Alanya due to mooring side to. He had to go: nibbled sea boots, glasses case etc etc. Traps (3), sticky pads (4), Rat poison augured a battle quickly won. Poison was the last resort due to finding the corpse before the aroma.

Oscar gained Skipper's respect. He was aboard for two weeks. Traps were set in various places each night with a varying diet. He nibbled but never set off a trap. Traps were set to high sensitivity.

He stuck to a pad but only fur remained. A night time clatter was assume to be a successful trap. Oscar never again stuck to a pad. Traps out, pads out; there remained the poison pellets.

He would expose himself late at night when Skipper was sitting in the saloon. A night time chase ensued one evening to Oscar's success.

Skipper locked the doors to isolate his roaming. Especially to Skipper's bunk in the aft cabin. He was capable of entering seemingly impossible holes. Skipper awoke to Oscar bounding across the aft cabin bunk. Was it a nightmare?? He chewed on army rations in a "closed" locker and chewed damp kitchen pads. He seems able to enter wherever the entry hole is more than a mere centimeter, maybe less.

Finally (??) a dinner of poison pellets was served. Oscar ate two dessertspoons full. When does he expire? The next night he chewed a damp kitchen pad. The next a loaf of bread. His droppings still abound. Finally he will expire. Then the search for the body before decomposition is critical. It is the Turkish summer hot, humid. Skipper's shelves plans to walk part of the Lycian way.

Advice: Immediately, set about locating Oscar. After the first day, set the full weaponry: traps, pads and poison pellets. Poison takes a 3-5 days to be effective. It is critical to avoid damage. A rat WILL chew rubber and foam (sea boots!!) and chomp through plastic to food (army rations). He will only experience a weapon once. A sticky pad is useless once "used." Traps didn't work. After four days he continued the "terror." Searches of likely "graves" revealed nothing. It is likely the only remains will be "smelled" out. While Oscar threatened any plastic water hose, he could sink the boat. Valves were turned off. Skipper was required to be around in case.

Graves abounded in ancient Teimussa. Ucagiz, Kokova Roads, is built over some of the city.

Kokova is a "no development" area so the old homes, winding streets (full of small tourist shops) give considerable character.. There is a well stocked market, and a fishing (combined (remarkably well equipped) chandlery) shop. Daily buses connect the town to Kas and Demre.

Lycia continued the ancient world's obsession with afterlife. Rock heavy sarcophagi litter the city outskirts. Everyone is damaged by nature or sacked for riches.

Skipper has wi-fi access at the Onur restaurant and pension (Jacqueline, Onur). Pleasant waterfront location. Jacqueline speaks fluent English. She is a mine of information.

Kale Koy (dinghy ride from Ucagiz ) means castle. It is classic ancient village of ancient houses and winding streets. It occupies the site of Simena. The castle dominates the town, offering views over Kokova Roads. It's an ideal protected port. Restaurants await the tourist droves. It is assessable only by boat.

Sarcophagi lay littered in the background hills. One rests, lonely in water, just off the village.

Lycian way trekking plans are shelved till autumn (Sept-Oct). It is too hot and the Oscar threat remains. Sahula will cruise to Fethiye and Gocek.

Next Report Kokova to Marmaris.

Best

David

Turkey mobile:0539 593 85 32

No email aboard. For contact: Skype the mobile.