Report 31 karkar mountains

Sahula Passage Report 31

Karkar Mountains Trek

15-26th August 2009

Goodbye Sahula, keep safe. Rucksack into Zod, bus, plane over the dry interior of Turkey, to Trabzon in NE Turkey. Aeroflot planes announced the proximity of Georgia.

"We'll meet you at the Airport." Not a soul. A taxi in desperation was avoided by the contact arriving. Skipper meets the group: four Italians, two Israeli's, a Dutchman, Belgian and guide Uraz and assistant/cook Gemal. None were the expected backpacker age group, more 40-60. "Odd," thought Skipper "they must be very fit?" The secret: 7 mules (4 handlers) carried rucksacks, 10 tents, food (15 persons), collapsible chairs, gas cooker ...Day packs were "de rigor."

Ayder pension in the cool hills, hot springs bathhouse then breakfast. The trek worthy of a sultan began. 50 minutes walk, 10 min rest the group wended its way to campsite No. 1.

Skipper reveled in the green mountain pasture covered in wildflowers bounded by the craggy brown peaks of the Karkar (pronounced "catch-car") Range. Late snow patches evidenced the height of some 2000 m. Mt Karkar at 3900m has a hanging glacier.

Skipper benefited from the new walking poles taking the strain off slightly (?) aged knees.

By late afternoon (1600), below the pass, Cemal and the mule men had set up camp alongside an azure lake with mountain vistas to the horizon. While mules grazed on green pastures, the group gathered for chai (tea) against a melon sky on a cloud white mat below.

Evening meal of hot soup, a stew, salad, bread and fruit ensured all slept well. 6-7 hour day, another pass, lunch alongside a small lake, spectacular views in perfect weather, a steep descent and camp No. 2 in a cirque of peaks feeding a stream through the campsite. Downstream a village herdsman tended cattle ringing bells.

The group enjoyed good camaraderie. All but one had done trekking previously. Three were going on to climb Mt Ararat (5000m). Noa, an Israeli lady had booked the day before departure. A stoic adventuress, she walked in street clothes.

The group all enjoyed an afternoon nap. This was the hardest day. Bodies were adjusting.

Uraz pointed out tomorrows pass, a steep ascent to the base camp for the summit climb.

Excitement; the red coat of chamois goats on a distant pasture. Mule man declares rain tonight as cloud races over the peaks. Spurred to action, Cemal's meal is soon done. A shout; the mule man are dancing. The group joins in circling the gas lamps as cloud clears and stars sparkle. A cultural omen, perhaps for the summit ascent. Skipper sleeps the sleep of kings.

A short day, a briefing by Uzar, in preparation for the summit. Weather is crucial.

At 0300 the camp stirs. Cemal already has tea and bread to fuel the day. Uzar's torch leads the group through the calm mountain cloud. Daybreak, a ruby sun, the cloud lifts to a perfect day. The gods are smiling.

Blue Lake and mirror morning reflections of craggy peaks and snow. The group passes as other climbers remain in their shore side tents.

Cross steep passes, snow field descents, over rock climbs, shelves, slippery climbs and much loose rock, trials and tribulations amongst the varying skills of the group. Uzar and Cemal skillfully, guide the group to the summit. A wonderful day of mountain vistas to the horizon over cloud below that ebbs and rises against an infinity of azure sky.

Much excitement as the group mounts the summit and stand below the red Turkish flag proudly streaming. The group is not alone on the summit. It is a popular climb. A group photo says it all.

An hour passes, and we safely descend to base camp. Cemal goes ahead; the group arrives to a spit sheep roast tended by the mule men (bought from the village below). Celebratory red wine and meal fed satisfaction around a open fire. Five days of perfect weather confirms good fortune in a region known for rain.

A short walk to Oigunlar, the first village. Lunch in the local restaurant of traditional food. The group arrives at Yaylalar (Hevet) village and Aldanay Pension and hot shower.

The village is on the snow line, Cyprus pine forest starts below, green pastures above. Skipper will stay over for five days to enjoy the cool and walk the high pastures, sketch and paint.

The village is a blend of traditional wooden and modern brick homes. A shop provides all needs.

A farewell dinner at the pension sees the group wishing all good fortune on their various travels. They leave on the 0600 bus and Skipper is alone except for wifi available by the pension computer.

Skipper each day ventures out new adventures. Superb walks on cow trails or virgin pasture, sometimes ascending local peaks.

Cemal returns to the pension enroute to join another trekking group. He introduces Skipper to the tea house and the board game Tavla (similar to backgammon) It is Ramadan. Moslem villagers don't eat from 0400 to 2000.

Skipper meets a variety of pension passersby. A senior Turkish mountain guide. He laments his mountains are threatened by "progress:" roads, dams, tourism and ski resorts...

An older Israeli couple who emigrated from Argentina in the first wave of kibbutz builders. They lament the rise of Jewish fundamentalism and youth's easy materialism eating at the socialist heart of kibbutz secular ideals.

An English "Turk" Jonathan (partner Ozlem) of Istanbul, heir in a family business joining a guided trek to Mt Karkar. Family concerns meant they had to return home.

Skipper paints watercolours of the peaks and pastures. "Girls herding" impressionist watercolour of girl, moving the reluctant cows along a forest trail. Small memoranda of superb mountains and villagers.

The dolmus (small bus) left at 0600 down a "road" through a tortuous gorge carved through steep limestone peaks to Barhal and Yusefeli. A trip not for the feint hearted.

Erzumun is a bland Islamic city on the dry steppe. Skipper is at the Oteli Cinar, a clean, pleasant small hotel in the town centre. The airport is on the edge.

Skipper reads a newspaper in a public park. A man walking his two small daughters, remonstrates a group of chatty teenage girls. They leave casting unhappy glances. A group of males chase a dog to great hilarity. They suffer no such fate. It is a mans world, especially in Ramadan.

Sahula is rejoined. The mountains to the sea. A journey complete. Skipper places photos on Facebook.

It is time to leave Fethiye and cruise north.

David.

2nd September, 2009