Sahula Report 46: Sigacik to Istanbul

Sahula Report: No. 46

Sigacik to Istanbul

March, 2011

Sigacik, Sapedere to Bademli. The later has hot springs along the shore. Tantalising prospect but Sahula is late and Skipper, cold. Germain (the heater) a good friend.

Bademli to Bozcaada Island is 12 hours. The tillerpilot to Aries vane connection fails. Skipper steers full time. A light southerly assists. Arrival is on dusk at Bozcaada fishing village harbour. Skipper sounds the horn, shouts ashore and willing hands emerge. Tied to their steel mammoth, tied to others and them to shore, Skipper enjoys with Ali and his arab crew, fish and Bozcaada fabled, red wine. A castle on the harbour dominates the village vista.

Much shouting, a boat wishes to go to sea, the fishing boat “sandwich” must disengage. It is pandemonium; Sahula the outside “slice” must release and come back. Settled back, more shouting, a repeat. Skipper wonders about sleep. Sahula losses some red paint to mammoth.

Early start; today the fabled Dardenelles, access to Istanbul and the Black Sea – Russia and the Caucaus, Gallipoli and conflictual centuries.

The current is reported to extend to Bozcaada. The impact of the Danube starts here as a major contributor to the Black Sea.

Commercial shipping is anchored off Bozcaada. Skipper wonders why? Past the entrance watch tower and the many memorials to tragic Gallipoli and the folly of war. A sad place where Australians fought Turks for no better reason than British colonialisation. Where a huge Turkey flag flies dominately signalling the victory of iconic Ataturk and the Turkish Republic. Much shipping comes north south, oddly none is going opposite! Sahula is alone.

Sahula sails before a strong southerly, closely following the Anatolian shore to avoid the commercial ship lanes.

Off Kepez, the straits narrow and water boils with current (estimate 3-4 knots).

Yilmaz calls and notes that tomorrow is Turkey’s Victory Day.

Off Canakkale, many Turk warships and Coast Guard cutters are at anchor and manoeuvring. A Coast Guard cutter comes speedily alongside Sahula; a gold resplendent officer in Turkish issues an order. Skipper calls on Channel 16 for an explanation and is told there is a “ceremony” and to please go to the “port side” and continue there. Skipper alters course after ensuring the direction is against the shipping lane.

Skipper wonders at the irony of an Australian yacht, come in

“under the radar,” in the midst of the massing Turkish naval fleet (some 10 vessels) on Victory Day.

The cutter again speeds alongside “Please ignore the shipping lane, go as close to shore as possible and proceed.” Sahula needs no persuading.

It is now clear that the “ceremony” has closed the Dardenelles. Later, when “ceremony” over, a long line of mammoths speeds south.

Skipper anchors at Cardak, opposite Galibolu (Gallipoli) in a rising north easterly gale. At dusk on the second day, the motion changes, Sahula is adrift in a 30 knot gale. The anchor is raised and reset closer to shore. It again drags and the anchor winch jams. Sahula is drifting to a shallow shore. The anchor is again let out while a second anchor is prepared. The winch restarts, the anchor is secured and Sahula tracks to Gelibolu on the opposite shore. The strait is a 30 knot cauldron not noticed by huge commercial ships that Sahula, enveloped in plunging spray, must avoid. Cold, wet and exhausted Sahula anchors close to shore, immediately south of the ferry terminal harbour. It is calm and secure. Hot soup, hot meal and sleep.

Skipper ventures ashore for supplies. Gelibolu was home to “…Piri Reis, the 16th century Ottoman map-maker and pilot.” His charts of the Mediterranean, Africa and America are noted for their detail. Recent press studies claim he was aboard as “Rodrigo,” assistant to Columbus on his voyage to America (Daily News). Gelibolu castle houses a museum to his achievements.

Skipper, ashore surveys the port. It is clear the busy ferry harbour is not viable for yachts. The small fishing boat harbour entrance is one yacht wide and berthing inside extremely tight. Anchoring is a better alternative. The anchorage is secure in north easterlies but disturbed in strong winds.

Wind Guru (German) Poseidon Weather (Greek) forecast strong north easterlies till Wednesday. Skipper enjoys a break: painting, sleeping, reading.

Wednesday, dawns clear and the anchorage, calm. Sahula heads out - into 18-20 knot north easterlies. Cold and windy, Skipper opts to anchor at Kemer, three hours “bashing” distant. Kemer offers respite. The village is behind a headland, well protected and secure from the north east. Sahula anchors in the bay, close to shore, immediately outside the fishing harbour. Hot soup, hot meal and sleep.

Along the coast (one kilometre) a large power station is being constructed, including a long breakwater providing an alternative but less attractive anchorage.

Up early and away to Pasalimani Island and harbour. “Watch out for entrance rocks” say Turk friend. Entrance is buoyed and deep. GPS is accurate. Anchor off a seemingly deserted village close to shore. Turkey in winter is home to a million unoccupied “holiday” houses that silently, degrade the landscape.

0430 weigh anchor, radar and GPS till dawn into the Marmara Sea, destination Istanbul. Calm waters, Audrey (autohelm tillor pilot) works well. Breakfast; alert for shipping in their lanes to port. Dolphins play and the 20 million peoples, city plastic pollution floats past.

Skipper dreams of a hot bath, soup and warm cabin. Istanbul berths can break the bank. Skipper is grateful to Istanbul friends for the 200 TL per week, harbour at Yesilkoy. Sahula meanders in, a fisherman in his rowboat, waves his arms. He has been phoned by friend Vulkan to assist. Anchor aweigh; Skipper is denied the luxuries but gains a secure anchorage. Yesilkoy is a wealthy bayside suburb.

Skipper stays in Volkan and Hulya’s apartment till Crew arrives. Time out, hot bath and home cooked food. Life is good and company superb.

Time well spent finding parts in Istanbul (near Golden Horn bridge) unique “find everything” market.

A southerly wind persists, ideal conditions to cross the Black Sea. It is not to be, Crew (Nathan) arrives on Monday, time to leave is put forward, the weather changes. Time to enjoy Istanbul and friends.

Next Report: Istanbul and Bosphorus.

David.