Passage Report 71 Elbe to Baltic

Passage Report: 72

Elbe to Baltic

Sahula is at the Baltic "gate" - the Kiel Canal. A ebb tide sped Sahula to Brunsbuttel and Alte Schleusen (lock) that raised Sahula the metres from river to canal.

Constructed between 1887-1895 when the fractious Schleswig - Holstein region was merged into the Kaiser's German empire, the canal remains an "engineering masterpiece." It wends its way for 85 km, between two entry and departure locks.

Sahula revelled in the pervading, eerie, placidness of summer green trees, bird song, ducks, geese, goslings and graceful swans - a Danubian memory.

Laced also with huge container ships, barges, square riggers, yachts, passing between green country, farms and villages.

Medieval Rendsburg provided sanctuary at 65 km. Strong cross winds ensured Sahula's entry to the marina's "box" mooring (yacht is berthed bow to the quay after taking stern lines to two, widely separated, poles on entry) was a chaotic challenge.

Skipper met and inspired by a solo, ex-academic, Scot, skipper of a Vancouver 25; cruiser of northern Norway, Baltic, Scotland and Ireland.

Museum gave reality to the Baltic regions, complex politics - subjected to greed and creed - of various sovereigns (Denmark, Sweden, Poland, Prussia, Russia, etal), encouraged by the Dutch, French, English determined to protect the sources of timber, flax and hemp - shipbuilding essentials; all lucrative trade for the monopolistic Hanseatic burghers, intermingled with the Protestant and Holy Roman Empires expansionary, warlike, whims; all set in harsh, cold winters. It laid the basis for later, laity, uprisings (acting on the French revolutionary example), the rejection of hereditary titles, feudalism, and inevitable democracy.

A history difficult to link to these peaceful, prosperous, hospitable, peoples.

Sahula, swept by wet, stern winds, sped to Holtenau and the final lock (Canal fee [12m]: 18 euro) and entered the Baltic. She had arrived after some two weeks (380 km) of North Sea challenges.

Numerous square riggers lined the wharves, shipping and sailing yachts plied the Kiel waters. The area has Europe's heaviest concentration of private boats.

Sahula moored at the welcoming, British Kiel Yacht Club marina (18 Euro - no fuel, wifi) at Stickenhorn. Again, a cross wind at the "box" berth tested crews skills. The Club is the British Army, EU, sail and adventure, training centre.

Nearby, the magnificent, wooden, 60 foot, sloop, "Flamingo," past private yacht of Nazi, Goerman. The Club photo of its owner sailing, is exempt from a German national ban on Nazi public expositions.

Alongside, a small yacht owned by a foundation member of the Humber Cruising Association, Grimsby.

"Go small, go soon, go far" (Pardy) - cruising truism.

A hot shower soothed; a good meal fulfilled; sleep ensured; a calm tomorrow.

Crew departed for Ipswich. Skipper was grateful for his assistance. Crew was grateful for the experience. A German student (friend of Danube crew) was asked to join on Sunday.

Sahula rests for four days before departing for Denmark, Sweden and Norway. Departure is delayed awaiting advice from the locally based, Baltic representative of the Cruising Association of England (Skipper is a member). Skipper values local advice on passages between Danish islands.

A feature of North Sea and Baltic cruising is wide shallow, coastal and estuary, waters.

Skipper is told German marine police strictly enforce (by "on spot" fines, collected by "fish net") crossing the many shipping transit lanes at right angles.

Next Report: Kiel to Norway.

Best

David

17th May, 2012