Passage Report No. 70

Ipswich to Grimsby

April-May 2012

“Grim” and a place to pass “by” – that’s Grimsby.” A reputation soon to be “wonderful Grimsby”.

Sahula butted north under rare sunshine. Tanya drove into a moderate sea making five knots over the land but two or three through the water. Tides decide all.

There was no plan to visit Grimsby up the River Humber. There was no plan to visit Lowestoft.

Crew was seasick – all day. Debilitated, white, Lowestoft offered “time out” – and the century old “Royal Suffolk and Norfolk Yacht Club marina offered a hot marina shower and waiting pub beer.

Crew bought “Sturgeon” for seasickness.

Next day, early start to cross the notorious Wash. Sahula repeated the previous day except that the Aries windvane steering paddle unhinged neutralising the Tillerpilot electronic self-steering. Crew would need to hand steer.

“We’ll hand steer to Hartlepool (200 miles) –there are three of us.”

By midday a Force 3-4 had increased to twenty plus knots. Sahula plunged and rolled in a rising northerly whipped sea. Yarmouth the last port passed to port.

“It is forecast to ease overnight.”

“The weather is different this year, the lows are coming west. There are front all over the place. The forecasters are looking into a crystal ball.”

Cloudy, wet, ink black night enshrouded Sahula. Cupboards spilled into the saloon. Chaos reigned. Sahula gamely plunged on. The next port is the Humber to Hull.

The wind and waves increased. Spray and green water swamped the deck. Crew were cold but dry in a fully enclosed cockpit wearing full weather gear. Watches three on three off experienced rest but not sleep. The recurring question is “why do this.”

Skipper ruled “We go in”

Coast Guard weather forecast worse conditions.

“You can anchor at Spurn Point.” Crew could rest without the longer passage up the Humber. Tired eyes, incomprehension stared at the watery  tide whipped cauldron. This was not a place to anchor without local knowledge. Crew did not want to risk being high and dry.

Grimsby beckoned. Anywhere to stop.

Entry is via Fish Dock Pen. Sahula guided through the shallows, entered a lock barely able to accommodate. Friendly strong accents welcomed crew.

Humber Cruising Association (HYA) provided all facilities and a warm welcome. The club was developed by volunteer, yacht owning members in the old fishing harbour. It shows as facilities recognise all needs.

In the clubhouse bar, members sit discussing boats and cruising. Crew were welcomed to join in. Later, musicians joined the bar. It was an eon from the trials of a few hours ago.

Grimsby was England’s largest fishing port until a decade prior, fishing grounds collapsed, regulations prevented fishing Icelandic and northern waters. A fish odour pervades the dilapidated port; a reminder of history. Today, it remains the largest fish processing port with endless trucks bringing fish resource from Scotland and other ports.

Twelve hours sleep revives Skipper. One crew opts to leave. Other crew and Skipper await a wind change.

“It will be a southerly on Sunday.” Crew have another day to rest and do maintenance. The Aries paddle is secured.

“It is a good plan, I have positive vibes.” Crew have recovered, optimism returns and plan for leaving. Depart Sunday before the forecast southerlies, for Helgoland off the Elbe River and entry to the Kiel Canal into the Baltic. Time lost will be regained. All depends on the weather. Crew is happy as his time aboard may not allow more stopovers between northerlies. Skipper can solo from the Kiel Canal.

HYA members give approval and advice. Cruising again looks far from grim.

Next Report: Grimsby to Elbe.

David

5^th May, 2012