Passage Report No. 73

Kiel to Copenhagen

It's a fine day, puff clouds and cool - Sahula departs the British Army Yacht Club for Denmark, stopping at Strande Marina for fuel (1.57 Eu/lt).

Northerly prevents Sahula sailing. Tanya does it again.

Crew (German student) is on his first major "sail." He enjoys the steep "curve." Mainsail up but the headwind persists.

It's late afternoon, requiring a harbour or anchorage. Coastlines are shallow so Sahula follows the markers (topped by "Xmas trees" (brushes) in various configerations) into Nakskov Fjord to anchor in behind Enorhoje Island (2-3m). It's a place of painted cliffs, pine trees and clear waters dappled by weed and sand. It is Sahula's first anchorage since the Romanian/ Bulgarian Danube. A similar shallowness (mud, sand) makes for easy anchoring throughout the Danish archipelago.

"Sundowners," wine and crisps, celebrates the calm, setting sun. Life is good.

In an unknown environment, finding an unguided safe haven is a challenge. More so in this region where the weather pressure charts herald an "army" of Atlantic lows threatening to invade the seeming serenity. Skipper extends the anchor chain.

Early start, long day into the Masned Sund ( 1.8 -3m) and Ulvsund channels) past Vordingborg. By midday, a northerly gale sets in. Channel streams white. Sahula butts (25-30 knots) headwinds, channeled between the numerous islands - green, farmed and flat. Beautiful, historic, homes amid the plentiful forest line the channel.

Tides are minimal; depth and currents may be affected by water shifts (1-2 m) driven by strong winds. Difficult to predict.

A spagetti of elegant bridges connects the islands. Sahula slides beneath three (20m and 26m air ht.) Bridge marker (where to pass under) are local not CENVI. Skipper opts for the highest clearance on a "sloping" bridge. Channel (2.5 -11 m) is well marked with long cyclindrical markers topped with coloured (red, green or black) triangular or square "brushes" ( bird denying and virtually weightless).

Kalvehavn marina welcomes Sahula (135 Krona (18 euro). The "box" berth entry in a cross wind gale, steepens crews "curve." It requires "threading" the yacht between two poles and looping them, cowboy like, then forward, putting lines, from each side, ashore, so the ship is tied securely in the box, while ensuring boats alongside remain undamaged. A challenge for two, to be avoided if solo.

Hot shower salves all. Tomorrow is forecast calm and easterly.

Arial (Aries wind vane) requires a new, Danish made, cockpit block. Ordered online for collection in Copenhagen.

From 30 kts to a calm, cool, sunny, fine day; Sahula departs, ghosting through shallow, clear, green water (1.7 -3.2m) over sandy weed, into the final narrow channel to the sea.

"Channel is well marked but ensure you keep between the marks - either side there is "no" water" - local advice found true.

Light winds assisted by Tanya, send Sahula to Copenhagen.

Passenger and container ships, local yachting fleets and small ships, compress into the Oresund ( Sound - 8 m) at Copenhagen's entry to the Baltic. Sweden is on the horizon.

The inner harbour is alive with small boats, relishing the evening's clear cool. Ashore citizens, promenade the harbour walls. Sahula manouvres up the Christianhavns Kanal - a narrow slice into the city centre. It tests Skippers turning skills, to berth in a "box" (200 krona/28 euro) into a scene, reminiscent of Amsterdam. Sahula, later, moves to alongside the canal wall for easier access.

Skipper explores Copenhagen - city of church spires, palaces, grand architexture, open air cafes, squares and parks. It is not Paris nor Amsterdam nor London. It is a small city compromise with the grand, dark (red,wine brick) public buildings, massed bicycle riders, open air cafes, busy canals and low city profile. Spectacular modern, glass, low rise architecture (Opera House, Theatre) merges with the old.

As with Amsterdam, citizens are slim and attractive. Obesity's scrouge and mass cyclists don't mix. Parents with children (sometimes three) in a "box" trailer, peddle by. There is a wonderful freedom of a contented citizenry.

Skipper visits the Rosenborg Palace, once home to Danish kings (Christian 7th, Frederick etal) - with overly ornate, romantic period rooms for over indulged royalty. It is also "home" to priceless, royal jewels, crowns, diplomatic gifts and artifacts. It is set in Kings Gardens - crowded with oblivious, pink, city sunseekers, relishing the opportunity to tan.

Skipper needed an "art fix." The National Museum of Art provided it. Collections of French, German and Danish "norske. It was an opportunity observe the evolution of the national. attitudinal and cultural differences, inherited in European art. At its apex, French impressionist modern remains uniquely, social impost and politics free; wonderfully colourful. Danish "norske" modern, darker, while colourful, remains impressed by stressful conflicts, social condition and politics. Swedish artist, Munck epitomises the difference. Older art expresses the power of royals and nobles, remote, egotistical pomposity. Stormy sea/ land scapes, bleak skies render the long, harsh, cold winter. There are no Van Gogh wheat fields, Monet haystacks and lilies, with their pure, colourful symphonies.

Sahula stays another day, relishing the warmth of clear sunny days and a beautiful, cultural city.

Next Report: Copenhagen to Sweden.

Best

David

26th May, 2012