Tuesday 25 October 2011

Report 66 Ipswich

Passage Report No. 66

Ipswich One

Sept 2011

Ipswich, last year, seemed dowdy, bland. Perhaps it was the harbour forefront in transition. Now it impresses as vibrant. Pubs and restaurants crowd the foreshore, history lines busy Tudor streets. Ipswich Haven Marina's cost is reasonable, staff friendly and its modern facilities make for a pleasant "home" for Sahula till March next year.


It's Heritage Week. A heritage walk educates Skipper on the cities historical association with Cardinal Wolseley, Kings, Queens, artists: Constable and Gainsborough. Jazz, art galleries, theatre and an alternative film venue, inter alia, promise a different sailor's life.

"Pete, are you attending the Southampton Boat Show?" He and Felicity (English cruising friends met in Thailand) accommodate and endure Skipper's endless search for Zods replacement and outboard.

Skipper engages in "Turkish" price haggling. A Honda 2.5m inflatable dinghy and Honda 2.3 four stroke, outboard is purchased. With large tubes (increased buoyancy under load), longer length (fuel canisters, crew, guests); Zod is updated.

Tanya (engine) remains ill. The medicine is elusive. Consultant engineers hold diversified causal opinions - electrical, fuel, compression, hide the key.

It is fuel. A Yanmar recall on the manual fuel pump was missed. The pump diaphragm is prone to leak allowing air in the injectors. After replacement, Tanya smiles happily. Skipper exudes relief.

At 84, sharp as a tack, Barbara, watercolourist, met while she was painting Flatford of Constable country, offers to introduce Skipper to the Ipswich and Suffolk's art scene. Long memories of life as a boat builders daughter regale Skipper during drives into rural Suffolk, attendance at an art opening and a day class in historic Alderton, and Shingle Beach.

Andrew and Carrie's "Scarletts" estate epitomises country living. Nearby grouse shooting "range" shows the English penchant for deadly sports. Grouse are bred to be shot, at close range, (by paying shooters) when flushed out over a cornfield.

Lunch at Levington village's "Ship Inn," an Orwell River cruise, visit to a country house art gallery - another weekend at "Scarletts" - Suffolk hospitality.

A pre-slip four days "time out" on the Orwell. Skipper finishes two more of the ten "Turkey" paintings. Marketing to a local gallery, taxes confidence - "...go to art school" (true!), composition, colour mixing - colourful "fauve" art competes with the dominant subtle English light. Two others wax admiringly.

"Free flow" allows free transit of the Ipswich harbour lock (tidal water outside equates with inside).

English "Indian" summer spares Skipper the "arctic" winter. Sahula is lifted to a land berth for her first winter.

"Wintering" the motor (water out, antifreeze in), measures to avoid mould (dehumidifier, tube heaters, absorbent pads) vary and confuse. Skipper, cautious of dehumidifiers (reported cause of onboard fires), opts for absorbent chemical pads and two tube heaters.

Skipper turns blue sanding off antifouling. Online (Force 4 Chandlery) primer and antifoul provides less expensive paint. Antifreeze in, oil changed, cockpit covered, tied off mast halyards, radar reflector removed - storm, gale, tempest, snow, ice - is possible. Cushions, mattresses are stored in a Marina and friends shed.

Mo, white wisps askance, retired, man of the sea, (72 years) owner of a 50 foot, timber, North Sea fishing boat ("She rolls a bit when 50 miles out, fishing..." [in the North Sea]); retired mechanical engineer ("I've rebuilt it down to the last bolt"). Tale teller of an Atlantic seaman's, life.

On the Danube, a rope entwined the feathering propeller and wrenched off the anode and greasing mechanism. Mo offers to make the parts for repair.

Next season Norway cruise (UK east coast, Shetland Islands, above Arctic Circle to Lofoten in Norway) is considered and prepared. Vicki of "Dynamanie" (Cruising Association) offers the loan of a full set of charts of the much indented, island and fjord coast. "You'll need a magnifying glass to see amongst the charted rocks."

Andrew of "Child of the Sea" (38 foot, steel sloop), solo sailor, retired classical musician (Viola), opts to make up a "fleet" to Norway.

"Crew wanted to Norway" draws no response. Arctic Circle??

Suffolk's "Indian" summer - sunny, cool days - defies the inevitable, witches of winter.

A large suitcase contains Skipper's colourful art works, enroute to Australian "light."

Skipper flies to Australia on the 4th November, after time in London; returning on 16th March, 2012.

Norway cruise departure is end of April.

Next Report. Australia.

David Haigh

Sv Sahula

Ipswich, Suffolk

October, 2011

Tuesday 13 September 2011

Passage Report 65 Holland to England

Passage Report No. 65

Sv Sahula

Holland to England

It is different in Europe. The planned cruise is subject to many variables. Skipper’s visa expires in two weeks. An exit plan for Europe is required. The English Channel and North Sea are prone to weather, changing winds, tides, sandbanks, shipping and transit lanes. A course, Holland to England is less prone, the further from the narrowing Channel. However, it is longer and includes sailing overnight. Skipper being solo and cautious opts to shorten the crossing. Sahula will exit at the southern port of Vlissingen. Sahula must again transit the “mast up route.”




Hans and Martine join as crew. Roy (marina manager) waves Sahula from the marina. Skipper leaves with some misgiving. Staying in Holland was always the preferred option. Skipper has enjoyed the welcoming, easy going people, the canals, historic towns, inland seas, focus on sailing and the bike riding.

Sahula farewells Amsterdam to enter the canal and wait for the convoy south. Sahula joins a fleet (15 yachts), berthed two and three abreast, awaiting the 0200 convoy south. The northern convoy (starting 2330) must first clear.

The major obstacle is a rail, highway, bridge. Fast trains shorten its opening time. Traffic is less in early morning. After passing this bridge another 7 bridges are opened consecutively.

However, bridges opening times are delayed and yachts mill about waiting. Progress is slow. After the convoy sector, further bridges await the fleet.

Eventually, canals give way to the Holland Diep, an inland sea. Sahula overnights at Willemstad, an old historical fort town.

Various locks, bridges and Sahula passes through the Volderak, Krammer, Mastgat, Oosterschelde, Veersemer – all inland lakes to the Walcheren canal to Middelburg. Crew disembark; Skipper solos the canal, bridges and lock to Vlissingen.

Sahula says goodbye to Holland. A final lock and a harbour swell heralds the sea. The Westerschelde is Sahula’s first saltwater since Romania (April).

The wind is a light westerly. The wind and tide are against. Sahula makes slow progress. Tanya pushes through. Skipper has miscalculated the tidal flow.

Shipping, Antwerp bound, is many. At dusk, the westerly increases to 18-20 knots. Seas build. Skipper decides long night in unknown waters is not an option. Sahula heads to Zeebrugge, Belgium, a few miles to port.

At the harbour entrance, Tanya turns and dies. Refusing to start, Sahula is unable to gain the port marina. Skipper radios port control and asks for a tow inside the harbour.

A “rib” (large inflatable) “RAR” (volunteer rescue) speeds alongside. Crew offer to take a line. Skipper explains that sails must first be lowered out of the harbour shipping channel. To no avail.

“A ship, a large ship is coming,” is yelled by RAR crew. A line is thrown and Sahula is violently, towed aside.

An engineer determines Tanya’s problem is electrical. All plugs are cleaned. Tanya starts – the problem passes. It is an expensive exercise. Tow: 500 euro. Engine: 260 euros.

Sahula departs for Ostende, a few hours south. Skipper has determined the channel crossing will be by a day passage from Dunkerque. A light northerly drives Sahula to the harbour. To port, a low, sand-dunned coast, interspersed with high rise apartments. It is here that many perished in past, endless wars. To starboard, a grey, cold, windblown sea, ships silhouetted, hides England.

At the harbour entrance, Tanya again refuses to start. A tidal current sweeps Sahula towards a dredge. Skipper gybes in a dying wind to avoid a near collision. Sahula sails to sea. Skipper informs the harbour authorities of an engineless Sahula. A tow will be needed to the marina. A police launch speeds alongside. Skipper works the emergency stop switch and Tanya bursts into life. Skipper cancels the tow. The police launch escorts to the marina berth. (Royal Prince Albert Yacht Club: 29 euros a night) Police make a report, check the passport and depart.

An engineer determines the problem is the emergency stop switch. It is sticking, preventing starting; a replacement will take ten days.

Sahula moves to the Mercator Marina (25 euros per day) and awaits the part.

Ostende is a mass tourism, mass apartments, seaside, resort city – grey, characterless, soul-less. Leopold II’s statue, gallops seaward. A memorial to Ostende’s Royal patronage. Crowds pack the shopping mall and restaurants. Blued striped wind breaks line the beach. No one swims. Children fly kites. A continual cycle of morning sunshine overcast giving way to passing rain, thunder and lightening.

Yachts come and go. Weekend sailing is along the coast to other ports.

Skipper hires a bicycle (5 euro per day) and follows the country canal to Brugge. There is no escape – tourists crowd the ancient streets. It is a picturesque maze of old buildings, palaces along winding canals.

After one night at a hostel (Dorm bed: 13 euro), Skipper pitches the tent (Camping: 14 euro). Overnight storm drenches the tent. Skipper retreats to Sahula to dry out.

Maintenance uses the time. A day trip by train to Gent. A beautiful “Dutch” architecture, canals, grand buildings, castle and art gallery.

“The part is here.” Cedric installs it and Sahula departs for Dunkerque in France. The passage to England is a day’s journey. Marina “pleasantly” charges 28 euros.

Tanya refuses to start. Skipper starts with increased revs. Tanya bursts into life. Skipper is relieved. Tanya will remain on the whole trip to Ramsgate. Skipper decides not to risk having no engine in shipping channels.

The forecast is favourable. Sahula departs running with the south flowing tide. Ruytingen beacon. The sandbanks are numerous. Seas well, swirl in a brown, green mass, waves are chaotic. Sahula under full sail with Tanya on sails through.

Channel rules require yachts to passage Separation Zones (dividing the north south passage of commercial shipping) at ninety degrees. Sahula passes Sandette light ship to Goodwin Sands light and is across. Shipping steams astern.

Wind increasing the seas mount in their confusion Waves break on deck. A rough passage. It is no wonder coastal Europe and England, breed the sailors to rule the waves of history.

At 1500 Sahula sails into Ramsgate to a calm berth.

David and Tina, English couple, met in Ostende, herald welcome. They were heading to the French canals but late season water levels meant they would return next season.

David is a retired marina owner. He checks Tanya. Tanya leaps into life showing none of her ailments. Adding confusion to uncertainty.

Day dawns fine and light easterly breezes. Sahula is heading to the Medway River – 30 nautical miles. Tanya motors out. Sahula is aground in the harbour channel. Always a risk to pass inside a channel marker. Free, sail up, an aft quarter Force 3 sends her along to sea off the coasts chalk cliffs.

A rising tide meant the charts shallows gave ample depth. A sea mist reduced visibility. GPS guided Sahula down the inside channel, huge ships out of London port, plied the outer.

Crowds enjoyed the beaches and brown water. Hotels, apartments, towns, mounted every headland of a crowded land.

Into the Medway the entrance guarded by a power stations high towers and commercial container port. Past into a tidal estuary nature reserve. Birds flocked and flew in the low mud and sand islands. Sahula anchored off the islands in Sharfleet Creek. Low tides sank Sahula off mud flats and banks.

A sunset subtled by the haze backgrounded the reeling birds and the many anchored yachts.

We’ll meet at Strood Pier up the Medway. Sahula motors past moored yachts, historic Chatham Docks (HMS Victory – Nelsons flagship), large ships to the Pier before Rochester Bridge.

Rochester is a historic village dominated by a Norman keep (England’s highest). Strood in contrast is a run down town of the downtrodden.

Skippers meets Graham who lives aboard a nearby yacht. “I just want you to know that the kids here likely to pinch your motor…”

Skipper, Graham and Dave leave the dinghy (outboard locked on) for a beer in the local pub.

“Its gone, the dinghy has gone.” There is no sign of it loose on the river banks. Zod and its outboard have been stolen. Skipper phones the Kent Police. A crime code is allocated. “Officers will be down in an hour.” Dave drives up river but to no avail.

“It’s probably Harry Lowe – the fat kid who lives in those low class town houses, they’re the areas toughest; I’ve seen him on our dinghies” (local yachtsman). The Police twice apologise for the slowness to attend. They do so the next day. They advise they have notified boating businesses along the river. Skipper thanks them for doing all possible.

Skipper feels emptiness – helpless vulnerability, frustration at not taking more precautions, concern at the cost of a replacement, a want to leave Strood. A hard lesson, testing faith in human nature.

Graham on a nearby yacht offers to take Skipper ashore. “I apologise for England, I am embarrassed.”

It is the first major theft of Sahula’s equipment since leaving Australia. A costly lesson. Replacement will dilute Skipper’s cruising funds to critical levels.

Dave’s phone calls to local marinas reveal little difference in cost to Ipswich. Skipper opts to winter there. Mariners Farm boat storage is least expensive but Sahula is too heavy for the lift out.

The weather breaks, Sahula must remain till it improves. A grey, rain driving, gale sweeps the mud bound river. It tests Sahula’s fenders.

Mary (Australian friend) crews Sahula. It is time to leave. Tanya pushes Sahula across the calm Thames Estuary avoiding sandbars, shipping and wind-farms. Gold breaks the heavy grey backgrounding sundowners of Chilean wine.

Green fields, villages and historic houses, welcome Sahula to the River Orwell. A lock and Sahula is in Ipswich Haven Marina in the cities midst.

Sahula will winter here (October to April) while Skipper flies to an Australian summer.

Next Blog No. 66 – Ipswich, Suffolk to Heathrow airport.

Best

David

Ipswich, Suffolk, England

13th Sept., 2011

Passage Report 64 Schengen Visa Imbroglio

Passage Report No. 64

Schengen Visa – Australian Sailor’s Nemesis

July, 2011

Sailors dream of sailing the world as the finest form of freedom. It escapes the bureaucratic tangle that regulates shore life. Sadly, it used to be. It is a dream, not a reality. Nothing better exposes this fact than the Schengen visa required by non-Europeans entering the European Union.

The visa is determined by the Schengen Agreement. Signatories include all European countries west of Hungary. Signatories do not have to be a party to the European Union. Norway is a signatory but not in the EU. EU members do not have to be signatories. Romania and Bulgaria, EU members are not signatories. The United Kingdom is not an EU member or a signatory.

Designed to enhance cross border freedom for Europeans; for foreign sailors it has the opposite effect.

Sailor’s cruises take time. The Schengen visa provides three months with no extension till another three months has past (90 days in 180 days). Sailor’s cruises regularly extend over three months. Extensions are available for humanitarian reasons or on the basis of force majeure. Sailors cruising generally come under neither. “Force majeure” may apply where weather requires time in a safe haven.

Skipper’s experience is evidence of the visa problems for foreign sailors planning to cruise European waters.

Sahula’s Danube cruise exposed the Agreement’s interpretive problems. Sahula entered the Danube River in Romania (a non-signatory but EU state) in April, 2011. At the border of each non-signatory state (Romania, Bulgaria) Skipper’s passport was stamped with an entry permit. Skipper assumed that the relevant three months extended from the date of crossing into Hungary (a signatory state).

In Frankfurt, Germany, Skipper was told by Immigration that the date of crossing into a Schengen state (i.e. Hungary), triggered the Schengen visa process from the date of entry into the EU i.e. into Romania.

Skipper’s visa therefore expired in a few days rather than a month.

This interpretation would severely restrict a person travelling e.g. 10 weeks, in a non-signatory region within the EU. It would mean that on entry into the Schengen signatory state, there would only be two weeks to expiration of the 90 day visa.

A sailor cruising (against the current in a yacht – mast down) up the Danube River and down the Rhine to the North Sea could expect the trip to take more than three months. It is possible to complete the cruise from Hungary to the North Sea in 90 days. However, a cruise from Romania to the North Sea would most likely exceed this period.

In Skipper’s case, German immigration recognised this conundrum and granted a six week extension. The extension was provided on the basis of an inherent “reasonable discretion” or “humanitarian reasons.”

Skipper was later told that the German interpretation was contrary to that understood by Dutch immigration. Dutch immigration understood the three months Schengen visa commenced on entry to a Schengen signatory.

Skipper intended cruising to the Baltic via the German canals to Finland. While the duration of this trip may be possible it would require a further extension to cruise in Baltic waters and to winter in Finland.

Advice by Finland immigration was to consider a Residence Permit application. Cost: 350 Euros non-refundable if unsuccessful. Applications may take months or weeks. In this time a cruiser can remain in EU waters.

Skipper therefore opted to exit the EU from Holland and proceed to the UK. The UK grants a six month visa, renewable for a further six months.

Skipper received various advices. One was to leave Sahula in the EU and fly to the UK and expect on re-entry to the EU to receive a further three months. Another was to fly to the UK and apply at the embassy of an EU nation for a further three months.

Skipper flew to the UK from Holland and re-entered in Holland. This was done within the extension period provided by the German immigration. Dutch airport immigration refused another three months as contrary to the Schengen Agreement. Skipper had a few days to exit the EU.

Skipper appealed to an Amsterdam immigration office for a three months extension. Advice given was that another period was only possible if granted a Residence Permit. Application is on the basis of work or study or other limited grounds. An application requires evidence of health insurance, independent means among other grounds.

The office advised that an application based upon a proposed cruise or doing yacht maintenance would not be accepted for processing.

Skipper stated that it was not possible to leave in the short period of the visa because of poor weather i.e. “force majeure.” The official queried whether this was a valid application under “force majeure” but granted a two week extension under s. 20 of the Agreement i.e. “force majeure.”

An oft noted comment by officials was that Australian immigration similarly treated EU citizens.

It is noted that a reciprocal visa agreement with NZ provides NZ sailors with EU freedoms.

Skipper was also told that the stamp entered in the passport was not a Schengen visa. It is a permit to remain in the EU. A Schengen visa is only available upon application to a signatory EU state. It seems it is not possible to extend the “permit” as it is not a Schengen visa. A Schengen visa entry in a passport is a blue/silver sticker. Australia, NZ, Canada, USA et al, are exempted from applying for a visa. Their entry to the EU is processed at the border (of the EU or a Schengen signatory?) by entering a stamp.

Sahula departed the EU at Vlissingen, Holland. Officials stamped the passport. Unexpected gale conditions some way off the coast required Sahula to make for Zeebrugge, Belgium. Officials there were not concerned with the visa issue. Sahula cruised to Ostende and again officials were not concerned about the visa issue. Sahula’s engine required repairs in Ostende over a two week period. No issue was raised with this stopover.

Skipper has received advice that Sweden may grant a three month Schengen visa regardless of time spent in the EU. If so this would overcome the three months limit restricting cruising in the Scandinavian region.

At present a yacht wintering the UK, has two options to cruise to Norway:

1. Enter Holland and cruise the Dutch, German coast to Kiel Canal to Denmark, Sweden and Norway.

2. Cruise UK east coast to Scotland and cross North Sea to Norway.

A three month visa would not allow Option No. 1. It would not provide time within the three months for a Norway cruise. A foreign yacht is restricted to Option 2. This is a more challenging, weather prone, cruise in open North Sea waters. Option 1. provides a less weather prone cruise through Dutch and German islands.

What are the lessons from this experience?

1. Non EU sailors (except UK and NZ) have only three months to cruise EU waters – coastal and inland.

2. A cruise in EU waters is likely to extend past three months i.e. Baltic, Danube, European canals, Mediterranean.

3. Exceptions include “humanitarian” or “force majeure” or a Residence Permit.

4. Exceptions to the Agreement do not include cruising or ship maintenance.

5. Residence Permit applications are expensive i.e. some 350 -400 Euros.

6. Residence permit may be granted on grounds of study or work.

7. While waiting processing of a Residence Permit application, a cruiser can remain in the EU.

8. A “reasonable grounds” visa extension may exist but is limited to weeks.

9. Passport “stamp” is not a Schengen visa.

10. Interpretation of the Schengen Agreement is not consistent. Germany and Holland have a strict interpretation compared to some other EU member countries.

What is needed for a non EU yacht to cruise in EU waters?

1. A six month visa period.

2. Alternatively, a three month visa period renewable for another three months.

3. Application on basis of: registered yacht, health insurance, independent funds.

The Australian Government should enter a reciprocal rights agreement with the EU similar to NZ.

Skipper enjoyed Holland and wished to cruise from and winter in, Amsterdam. A strict interpretation by the Dutch immigration prevented this intention. Skipper sailed via Belgium and France to the UK.

Skipper would be interested in hearing from cruisers with experience of the Schengen Agreement issues for foreign yachts. djhaigh@gmail.com

David

Sv Sahula

August, 2011.

Thursday 25 August 2011

Passage Report 63 Mast Up Route Holland

Passage Report No. 63

Monnickendam to Standing Mast Route – Holland

July –August, 2011

A sea of sails converges on the lock. Young assistants make order of chaos. Yachts

pack in, and pour out into Amsterdam harbour.

Tanya shakes – the propeller is weed bound. “Don’t worry, it happens every year in

the Markenmeer, go back and forth and it will come off.” Skipper is relieved. Inland

“seas” are 2-4 meters. Weed grows to the surface in places.

Sahula is bound for the Ringvaart (standing mast, “ring” route) via Haarlem and

Leiden. The “ Standing Mast Route” extends the length of Holland.

Amsterdam’s “box” buildings and commercial harbour pass astern, Sahula turns into

the Zijkanaal, a bridge opens on request but a major highway delays the next till a set

opening time next morning.

Sahula waits at a marina wharf. A green and red light signals “bridge opening,” road

Gates lower, bridge rises, red light turns green, yachts file quickly through. Another

Fleet from the opposite direction passes then bridge lowers, bells ringing and a road

continues.

Sahula is to repeat the opening bridge and lock process “a hundred times.” There are

seven bridges in Haarlem town. Most are free. Occasionally, a fee (usually three euros)

is collected by (a most Dutch act)the lock master, dangling a clog from a fishing rod.

Harbour master ashore, rides past, “On starboard, behind flat bottom boat alongside

brick, town wall.” Sahula glides in - mast in a tree soon disengaged. Sahula

is berthed in the heart of historic, Haarlem. Facilities (shower, loo) are on the quay

(by token).

A Flemish, 16th century city, that wears well its historic, burgeoning past,. Its

prosperous burghers recorded by the artist Hals. A large cathedral dominates the

central square; streets cross canals. It is a lively, attractive, contemporary city.

A fleet gathers before the bridge. It is a turning bridge followed by a lifting bridge.

Bridge synchronisation is dependent on the lock master cycling to the next or

having control from one bridge, of a number of bridges. It is “Russian roulette”

whether arrival is in time.

Tanya is ill. Engine panel gauges fail. Engine stopped, Sahula glides to a wharf.

Skipper works the electrical plugs – it starts. Much relief.

Leiden, city of canals is explored in “Zod” (zodiac 2m dinghy). Passing errant youth

ensures a wet, cursing, crew.

Sahula anchors on the Kagerplassen (inland lake). Sundowner’s views include

windmills and rustic, rural, polder. Ben and Skipper swim in cold, brown water.

Sahula opts to return to Amsterdam (original plan was to exit Holland at the southern

port of Vlissingen). The “ringvaart” returns to Amsterdam via the “convoy” route.

Major highway and rail bridges open, consecutively, late at night.

Sahula sails (with a fleet) on the Westeinderplassen (inland lake). Kempers marina provides a base to visit the Aalsmeer flower market (Holland’s largest of five). Every morning, millions of flowers are auctioned, packaged and dispatched to vendors in towns across the world. The market is a seething mass of workers ensuring acres of seemingly infinite varieties, are cleared for the market.

“I’d let you through but bridge is out of order.” Sahula must reverse the Ringvaart through Haarlem to Amsterdam.

The Twellegea Nauticadam marina welcomes Sahula’s return. Ben and Di leave for Australia. Skippers decides to attempt to obtain a further three months visa extension.

Next Report: Schengen visa – an Australian sailor’s nemesis.

David

July, 2011

passage report 62 Frankfurt, Rhine, Holland

Passage Report: No. 62

Frankfurt on Main, Rhine and Holland

“You’re at Offenbach. Offenbach, how did you get there? To Frankfurtians, Offenbach is low brow.

Price resolves everything. (marina: 12 Euro a night – 60 Euro in central Frankfurt), Sahula is there a month (180 Euro) awaiting the arrival of Ben (Australian friend) crew to Holland. The marina is “home” to broken dreams – large, unfinished, yachts unlikely to see the sea.

Flying the “boxing kangaroo,” ensures Skipper meets the locals. Dieter and Anke (voluntary crew of heritage boat, “Gaby” and sailors), Stefan and his parents, Christel and Juergen, invite Skipper to their homes, dinner and use of the washing machine.

Tours of the city and countryside, display the festivals, food, history, and culture – recent and ancient.

Medieval, metal armour, head to toe and hoof, encapsulates an ancient “human tank” mounted in Schloss Braunfel’s armour room – challenges the imagination – and the horse. Home to descendants, its towers rise, Disney like above the surrounding village and forest.

The madness of war devastated Frankfurt. City of Germany’s highest “Manhattans” it mixes the medieval and new. City of museums (previously riverside mansions) and art galleries.

“Bavarians always say no (in Passau immigration refused a visa extension), I will help with a visa, I know who knows who” – in immigration.

Skipper’s visa was assumed to expire on the 30th July – 90 days after entering Hungary – a Schengen Agreement signatory.

“There is good news and bad – your visa expires next Tuesday but an extension is possible” Sahula leaves on Sunday! Skipper receives 6 weeks. It is Hesse not Bavaria.

It seems the visa is three months from entry into the EU not into an Agreement signatory, even though a non signatory cannot grant a Schengen visa.

“In time, our population will drop from 80 to 60 million; couples are too busy to have children – our culture will die out.” Offenbach citizens (migrant workers families -Turk, Middle East, and African) reflect Europes ethnic changing,

Ben arrives. Frankfurt friends farewell Sahula. Four locks to the Rhine.

At Mainz wharf, Skipper and Ben farewell Christel and Juergen (“crew” for the day) with a rousing rendition of Waltzing Matilda (compensation for forgoing a classical music concert) – tourists are wide eyed.

Rhine speeds by carrying busy traffic. This is a different river. Barges march in convoy, passing three abreast plus a small yacht.

Overtaking, towering bows, chomp by, metres from Sahula’s stern. It is not for the feint hearted.

“If Lorelly (a blond maiden) sings, disaster is nigh.” Silence prevailed in the notorious, fast and narrow, Lorelly gorge. Reputed as the Rhine’s most picturesque; Castles occupy every hill. Tax collecting occupiers demanded the coffers of ancient, passing traffic to lift cross river chains.

Sahula raced with the swift current, making Bonn (160km) in a day; in time to visit the IUCN Environmental Law Centre and friends.

On the third day, passing Cologne, Düsseldorf, Duisburg, Sahula crossed into Holland and quieter canals.

Veche Canal is reputedly one of the Holland’s finest. Sahula’s first bridge encounter passes, hesitantly, slowly, under, with centimetres to spare. Depth sounder drops to and remains at 1.7m and remains – Skipper’s learning curve begins. Passed massed colourful blooms, boats and traditional houses and mansions, windmills, lifting bridges, ducks and geese interspersed with green polder fields in a Dutch agrarian vista.

It is relying on fate (and a phone) to not book marina berths. Summer ensures the canals are busy with private boats. There was no berth in the marina. “You can find one in town.” Sahula passed through two bridges to berth with locals, against the historic Weesp centre, town wall.

Bridges operate on arrival or phone and outside tea and lunch breaks and time to bike between.

Canal “masters” wave cautious Sahula on, “Faster, faster” – a convoy, awaits on the opposite side, an ambulance is in the waiting traffic, he is required at the other bridge. Green/ Red prepare to go – locals pass through the lock gates or rising bridge before the final green.

A toll (1-3 Euros) is placed in a wooden clog lowered from a fishing rod.

Canals raise challenges: turning, 360 degrees, a 12m yacht, in a narrow canal lined by boats – some now adorned with Sahula’s red ; confronted by a motor boat, nonchantly, cutting the corner, with the option to ground alongside, hope for a course change or full astern with another close astern or all three at once (proclaiming “steel” is irrelevant – all boats are steel); depth sounder alarm shrilly sounding - 2m dropping to 1.6m causing an underwater agrarian plough, crew to stumble forward or softly steadying to 1.7 (Sahula is 1.6), repeated again and again.

“This is Amsterdam” on a fine, summer day– massed crowds, backpackers, tourists.

Sahula heads to Monnickendam (historic fishing village on Markermeer inland sea) marina (110 Euro/week), enters the canal (“you will be ok”) - 1.3 m per the Guide book.

Returning to Amsterdam, Twellegea Nauticadam Marina, (in historic Nieuwendam village harbour) provides a quiet berth (120 Euro/ week and mast up facilities (100 Euro).

Skipper replaces the mast light and wind indicator (Dekker chandlery) - victims of the first lock in the Constanta canal, Romania.

“Wednesday morning, raise the mast.” Tuesday is fine, Wednesday is rain, wind and recurring Atlantic lows till Sunday. First lesson in Europe’s nemesis: weather (and tides).

“In Holland you need an umbrella, sometimes for the sun, normally for the rain.”

Sahula’s mast remains reclining on deck. Lows sweeping in from the Atlantic end the sun, usher in grey days of rain and wind.

Wood on boats (decks, spars and bright work) is smeared in light green algae.

“Autumn is fine but cloudy – nothing dries (after a long winter).”

Between the lows, a sunny day. The mast goes up. A spindly crane slowly lifts. Don’t worry” says Roy (marina manager) grasping the heel, wrestling it to its deck pad, “attach the stays”, “don’t worry it will stay up” – Skipper looks unconvinced. It does.

Sahula is becoming a sailing boat. “Becoming” requires stays fixed, rig firm and mast aligned, boom on, sheets, halyards in, electrics attached. A working ship.

In come other low, delays. “Spring was a perfect “summer” but now…it is global warming.”

Ad, Amsterdam wood carver, yoga teacher and yacht owner (45 foot Van de stadt), Ad, invites Skipper on a city bike tour, seeing the parts not known to tourists.

Radar screen registers a blank. Geert, Amsterdam’s sole radar engineer (it is holiday time, Roy phones to answering machines) says change the junction box. It works – Skipper registers embarrassment – simple solution to a complex problem). Wind registers, lights bare brightly – Skipper is relieved (again).

Sun shines - pacific Nieuwendam to busy Amsterdam harbour. Sahula follows the locals to the lock (8 yachts inside) (locks role is to keep the water level in Amsterdam constant – it varies in centimetres) to Markermeer (originally seawater, the Zuider See is divided by two dykes creating freshwater, Ijsselmeer and Markermeer).

Marken is a small, 15th century fishing village, originally on an island, its mostly dark green wooden houses are built on mounds amid canals. Sahula in the marina, enjoys its evening beauty free of tourist crowds.

Sun gone, wind increases, rain – Sahula sails for Hoorn (20 euros a night) – headquarters of the Dutch East India Company (VOC) past a fleet of two or three masted, gaff rigged, blunt bowed, trading (now charted) barges.

These Dutch yacht sailors are hardy. In full stormy, wet weather, families (school holidays) – adorned in full wet weather rig – head out. Undeterred by grey lows rolling in; ever hopeful for the sunshine.

Sundowners looks to Hoorn’s 17th century Harbour Tower and gravity defying town facades, across resting trading (now charter) barges.

A re-enacted Cheese Market in the city centre recalls Holland’s dairies. Ben dons a shoulder bucket holder and joins the costumed parade.

Mainsail up, before a freshening Markermeer, Sahula speeds to Enkhuizen, second port of the VOC, accompanied by a fleet of yachts and barges. A lock transports the fleet into the Ijsselmeer and harbour marina (25 Euro a night). A soulless place, it does no justice to the VOC fleet and merchants that traded here.

From all over Holland, relocated buildings, representative of the past, recreate a culture otherwise lost. 15 acres of street scapes represent a hard life. Freshly smoked herring makes up for a rainy day.

Marina berths are a “box,” between two poles into which the yacht enters bow to the wharf.

Winds are forecast to lessen (from 75 knots!). Sahula departs -alone. The only occupant of the lock, Tanya punches, spray flying, into a freshening gale and short steep sea (depth 3m), for Monnickendam but opts for a closer peace at Hoorn. Crew nervousness noticeably decreases.

Ben “escapes” for a hotel and conference in Bonn.

Dawn is blue skies, yachts pour out, Sahula (Di skippering) also – for Monnickendam. A rigger is available to set the mast (113 euro). UV cover on staysail is replaced (400 euro).

Fundamental – when in Holland do as the Dutch sailors do (or don’t). Full cover wet weather gear is de rigour – for all the family. Nothing deters. Inland seas do not have swells or large waves. Sailing before the gale, fleets leave port.

Monnickendam – evening rain showers (Marina – 20 Euros a night). Rigger aligns the mast. Expertise is difficult to find in summer school holidays.

Crew bicycle (supplied by each marina) to ancient Volendam, site of massed tourism. Gratefully return to Monnickendam.

Sahula is here for three nights awaiting Ben’s return. Then it is onto Amsterdam and the Mast Up canals route to Rotterdam.

Next Report: Mast Up Route

David

Sv Sahula

July, 2011

Saturday 25 June 2011

passage report 61 On ye Bike Germany

Passage Report: No. 61

On ye Bike – Frankfurt to Wurzburg

June, 2011

The mind was in synch, was the body? Lack of berths had prevented Sahula visiting the riverside, medieval towns. It was time to reclaim. Skipper, hired Bruno (bike –not quite Brutus) (80 Euro per week) and headed off, over 215 km, to Wurzburg.

The trail, a bitumen track, signposted, exclusively for cyclists (no helmet required), followed the Main River. Germany is laced with similar facilities.

Tent and sleeping bag on the rear carrier and a backpack overloaded for all eventualities, Day One effortlessly spruiked some 50 km.

Can you tent in the fields? At 1700, muscles complaining, tent up – no one objected (or dared!).

Barges passed, ducks - ducklings, swans - signets, glided by - a Sahulian view reversed. Evening rain – good book (Ken Follett) Skipper was snug and oblivious. Dinner was cold sausage and “brot.” River wash and shave.

Historic village centres yield mid morning “Backerei” (bread, patisserie), midday meal and “eis” (icecream).

Schloss Johannisburg (12th century, Archbishop hilltop, palace, destroyed shell 1945, rebuilt – madness of war), Schloss Schonbusch (17th century, Archbishops garden palace), aristocratly, rose above the cobbled lanes, leaning, cross timbered houses, spired churches, of ancient Aschaffenburg. Superb, slow, touristic, progress.

Sulzbach, Wallstadt, Obernburg, Klingenberg (stone Teddy Bear -7493 Teddies – Guinness Book record) – orderly, spotless, human less, seeming surreal, villages. Chinese restaurant connotes change.

It rained, it poured – Skipper swept along, wet, cold and fast. Then sun dries all.

Bruno slows – river views tent, book – rest.

Miltenberg “backerie” breakfast, empty, morning quiet of a town time unchanged. Window flower “pots” create colour splashes. Flowers seem especially bright or luminous. Castle ruins remain the river guardian.

Suburban industry, neat, clean, prosperous, ensures a decentralised village economy serviced by road, rail and river.

Curiously common, village cigarette machines facilitate smoking.

Cross river, the trail charts through Freudenberg, under Wertheim’s red towering monastery and river bridges, reflecting the red rock, river cliffs and ancient quarries.

Speed trains rocket by, cars hurtle on parallel “paths.” Then diverge to peace of red, purple, blue and yellow, poppy, wildflower, silver, blue, patchwork, wheat fields.

Cyclists – adorned to test – spiral by; Bruno ambles on, soaking in the agrarian idyll.

Markt Heidenfeld, Rothenfels, Lohr – Skipper’s raw seat, tested muscles demand rest – tent up, river birds gather. Curious dog exercising locals have been to Townsville, Australia.

Bells toll to herald dawn. Gemunden, Karlstadt and destination Wurzburg.

City of Prince Bishops, palaces, cathedrals. 1945 records massive bombing leaving building shells. Since rebuilt to again a magnificent river town (120,000 – 25,000 students)

Skipper opts for central Hostel Fish (17 Euro a night) – two nights of bunk bed, hot shower! Raw seat, unknown muscles – recuperation.

Enough, “body” books on a train to Offenbach, Sahula. A packless bike ride to 17 - 19th century, aristocrats Schloss Philippsruhe (Hanau). Hanau is home to the Brothers Grimm – fairy tales.

Summary:

Germany is laced with bike trails. They are popular. These are exclusively for cyclists and pedestrians. They are bitumened, well maintained and signposted. Along the rivers they relatively flat. Hostels exist in most towns (17 -25 Euro per night). Some hotels offer special deals to cyclists.

A superb trip would be the Romantic Road trail from Wurzburg to Fussen (Neuschwanstein Castle and Zugspitze alps). An English couple advised it took eight days or longer.

Skipper tented out each night at random, natural sites on the river bank. It was free, with a river wash. There were no security issues. The bike was locked to the tent.

Evening meal was cold food bought in villages. Backerie’s or small restaurants provided breakfast and lunch.

Cost of the trip was minimal – some 20 euros a day. Train was 26 Euros. Bike hire – 80 Euros a week, 100 Euros deposit from Hex bikes in Frankfurt. A suitable seat is critical or suffer!

Thursday 9 June 2011

Passage Report No 60 Danube Report to CA

Passage Report No. 60

Danube Report

Danube Report from Sahula submitted to Cruising Association of UK.

Sahula is now in Regensburg, Germany. She has completed a cruise from Istanbul, across the Black Sea to Constanta, Romania and up the Danube.

This is a short report on the Danube cruise. More details are on a blog site – www.sailblogs.com (Sahula) and videos on YouTube (davidhaighsahula).

Sahula is an Australian registered, 9.5 tonne steel, 12m x 3.5m x 1.5m (1.6-7 loaded), “Van de Stadt 36” sloop. She had a crew of two and a Yanmar 54 hp motor. Average revs used: 1800.

The cruise started from Teos Marina, Sigacik (Izmir) on the 15th March, 2011 via the Dardenelles, Marmara Sea to arrive in Istanbul on 25th March. At Istanbul, she anchored in Yesilkoy small boat harbour awaiting crew from Australia.

After the Bosphorous and awaiting weather, she left Poyaz fishing harbour (Turkey) on 4th April to cruise (2 nights) across, direct, to Port Tomis Marina, Constanta, Romania.

After the mast was stored along the deck (and excursion to Bucharest), on 12th April, Sahula entered the Constanta – Danube Canal. On 13th April the Danube odyssey began. Some 6 weeks later, Sahula arrived, some 2000 km later, in Regensburg. Another option is to enter the Danube Delta – a natural heritage site.

Over long days an average of 70 km was travelled each day. Distances of 100 km a day were achieved if current was reduced by dam lakes in the latter parts of the River.

Current was some 2-3 km through Romania, Bulgaria and into Serbia, Croatia to Hungary. An exception was the Hells Gate (or gorge) section were, while a dam reduced current, the narrow river provided some. Also a local” gorge” wind against current created, in parts, a 2 m sea. Going uphill Sahula “surfed” before it. The River was closed to commercial traffic. At other times as well the “rear” wind assisted the daily average.

The lower Danube, through Romania, Bulgaria, Serbia, is a meandering, wide, peaceful place, past villages, fisherman huts and small boats. Hungary is the same, albeit with more prosperous villages. Sahula anchored (near sand banks to lessen risk of tree obstacles) each evening between town stops. Beautiful Ruse was Sahula’s first stop. The Ruse Yacht Club provided a welcome and facilities.

Checking in with Border Police, customs and harbour master was, at times,

bureaucratic but officials were generally friendly and efficient, albeit, within non-sensible systems.

Fuel was available but requiring carrying containers from the local service station. A container trolley is useful.

Town berths for visiting yachts are generally non-existent. Pontoons cater solely for commercial traffic, especially the passenger boats. In some cases this meant not stopping or anchoring. A dinghy crossing is not for the faint hearted.

Belgrade, Budapest, Vienna – beautiful cities – but Budapest is the “Queen of the Danube.” It embraces the River as no other.

Industrial visual degradation (reported especially in the lower part) is mainly confined to large towns. It is not overwhelming. River pollution is not an obvious issue.

The River was shallow in places. A River boat captain suggested Sahula “move along” due to seasonal shallowing. Locals reported the lowest river height in memory. Dunafoldvar, Hungary was nominated as the lowest river height (there are less dams) but Sahula found the German sector, (between dams) after Passau (Inns River [larger than Danube] junction), the most persistently shallow i.e. less than 2m (1.7m) and the channel, at times, very narrow (less 100 m). Current increased to some 5 km in places. However, generally, depth averaged 2-3 m. Large barges and passenger boats (some 120m long) draw 1.5 – 1.6 m. Their skill in navigating the winding, vagaries of a changing river, at speed, at night, is remarkable. “…we follow the red line on the digital chart…” – such faith. Skipper observed two survey boats on the Danube.

At no point did current put at risk Sahula’s journey. A large rope around the propeller in Viden, did, however, almost have this effect. Generally, the River water is green and clean (Blue from local hills). Engine water was not blocked at any stage.

Sahula’s references included: Danube –a River Guide (Heikell 1991), Cruising Bulgaria and Romania (Allardice, 2007), 8 chart books (Pierre Verberght – updated). The latter is the “official” navigation aid. They are critical. Charts (same as in the books) are also available on the Web.

Agency for Exploration and Maintenance of Danube River (Bulgaria HQ Ruse): Danube Charts and information – river heights, floods, weather …: www.appd-bg.org

Water levels for Europe: www.elwis.de

Digital charts Europe waterways: PC Navigo by Pierre Verberght (Holland) 0032 475 490131. Cost (2011): 400 Euro. “…Put in the boat details and the intended trip. It calculates the time to do it and depth available…”

Heikell, while mostly out of date on river information, provided an overall map and interesting historical information on many towns. It is still a useful book.

There is other material, printed in German, including a large reference on “The Danube.”

Distance and navigational markers “dot” the whole River. They are well maintained. River heights are also signposted, at infrequent, points.

CENVI navigation regulations apply. A “blue” flag is advisable.

A 2m draft yacht could do the trip. Obviously, shallow draft is useful. This year, river heights were historically low. Rains and snow melt came through in December, January. In another “wet” year, deeper draft is possible.

It is difficult to determine when to do the trip. Spring is reported as flood time. However, these occurred in December, January. Sahula commenced early (in the cold) and would recommend this time. Weather was generally good, with intermittent, rain and cold in the lower reaches. Only in late May was swimming possible or enjoyable.

A remarkable, memorable journey. Sahula passed 4 “downhill” small yachts. She was reported as the second to transit “uphill” and the only Australian yacht.

The cruise will continue up the Main – Danube Canal, down the Main and Rhine Rivers. Originally to re-enter the German canals from Duisburg to Lubeck on the Baltic. However, due to a short three month Schengen visa for “foreigners” this was changed to Holland and the UK.

Skipper David Haigh is able to be contacted on djhaigh@gmail.com

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passage report No. 59 Regensburg to Frankfurt

Passage Report No. 59

May, 2011

Regensburg to Frankfurt

“Push off,” Sahula is swung by the current, the aft mast end hits the concrete wall, a mast light and wind indicator paddle snap – the price for not removing them. Fenders are placed on the mast ends.

Sahula is at the Regensburg marina. “Don’t worry it is soft” “It will rain on Friday.” Sahula is “perched” some 20 cm balanced on her keel, pontoons lines are bar tight. Overnight the River has dropped.

Five locals pushing, a motor boat pulling and Tanya revving – Sahula leans to and breaks free to another berth.

A revisit (by train) to Passau to see Captain Jord (River Countess) at his home. A visit to the Government “Foreigners” office with Jord speaking German results in “You must leave end of visa.” (no agreement Australia and Germany).

Skipper must now rethink the next part of the trip. It is resolved to cruise the Rhine to Holland and leave for the United Kingdom for winter and home then next season to Norway.

Sahula, departs, threads the “700 year old bridge,” clunk - a hidden obstacle strikes hard the hull. Steel is a friend.

At Kelheim, another of Ludwig 1’s folly’s,( other is Walhalla temple, Regensburg) the “pudding” like “Liberation (Napoleon’s defeat) monument squats high above the River.

“Marina” means Sahula’s keel rests in silt overnight. (11 Euros – Kelheim Yacht Club)

Past the dividing marker: Danube to left, Main – Danube Canal to right. 7 weeks and 2412 km to the Black Sea, 2012 to Constanta Canal. Skipper congratulates Crew on a job well done. Sahula and Tanya (engine) likewise. A unique and remarkable adventure.

Ahead the Main – Danube Canal to Bamberg – 16 locks, 171 km, (3-4 m), ascending to 406 m.

A swan family swim idly by, signets resting on mother’s back. Castles perch above river villages.

“Lyaemer” (2100 tonnes) is Sahula’s ticket to a speedy transit through locks. Locks fit one barge and a “sportsboot.” She also created “horibulus lockius.”

Sahula was trapped – if she swung out from behind the barge she would meet 2000 tonnes exiting the lock. Drifting, the rudder felt the shore rocks. Full ahead, barge forward propeller surged, Sahula bounced, missed the now almost past barge and was free. Dark disaster is never far.

To Holland downhill from the 406 m summit. Five locks (three: 24 m) to Nurnberg.

Green and Red navigation markers changed sides – uphill markers from sea.

Dusk, Sahula moors behind “Stormy” (German yacht enroute to Romania) at a factory river wall.

Guests of Klemens (lawyer and yacht owner of Nurenberg)and Reiko, to a Bavarian biergarten.

Lock, lock and locks – 34 locks over 384 km to Frankfurt each between 20 minutes to an hour.

Varied locks yield surprises: turbulent up, calm down, through draining current, static or floating bollards so far apart “sportsboots” can only use one, two closing gates in one, exit gates sink or rise, non or English speaking lock masters, one lock master manages a number of locks using cameras, sportsboots yield to commercial barges, turbulence from exiting barges, sportsboot “waiting” wharf – too shallow or non-existent, other sportboots (rowing sculls, motorboats) crowd space. Patience is a virtue.

Rural greens – ochre steepled, orange/red roofed villages - unchanged patchwork of agrarian life.

“Venetian” Bamberg, “unspoiled gem of medieval and Baroque architecture (2300 buildings declared World Heritage).

Locked out (lock repairs), Sahula alongside a barge, Skipper walks to the local village – neat, impossibly clean, a large church citadel and a “backerie” – hot bread shop.

Garden rural fields – a Monet of red poppies, purple, white, yellow wildflowers. Steep, terraced vineyards line the hills blessed by chiselled stone icons.

Wuzburg, city of Prince Bishops, bridges, churches and hilltop monastery.

Weinberg Yacht Club pulls Sahula to the wharf, “It’s only soft” (1.4-5 m)(12 Euro). Passing barges suck out, then fill the depth. Alarms ringing, Sahula departs.

Holiday time: massed tents, campervans and village festivals. Sahula cruises cautiously between swimmers, skiers, canoes, rowing sculls.

Anxious ducks, geese, swans and frantic families quickly cross.

Navigation lights signal late dusk alongside a lock wall.

Maintenance is avoiding the unprepared. Calcified loo pipes give Skipper a lesson.

Sahula “races” to Frankfurt, arriving a week early at Speck Marina, Offenbach (12 Euro/night).

Skipper must now resolve the way ahead: to Holland and England or to Baltic and Finland.

Next Report No. 60: Frankfurt, Rhine to Holland.

David

6th June, 2011

Wednesday 25 May 2011

passage report 58 Linz to Regensburg

Passage Report No. 58

Linz to Regensburg, Germany

May, 2011

Sahula, welcomed by Johann, is in Linz alongside one of the few visiting boat wharves (1 Euro per metre, water, electricity, no wifi¸ supplies, fuel station nearby, riverside walk to city or No. 27 bus).

The centre; a mix of old and new, expresses the city's industrial prosperity. Clean, bustling, a new "glass" art gallery and technology museum, it is a city of the River.

It's been a long day. The Danube weaved its way through the narrow, dam flooded gorge, hedged in by forested hills. Cyclists crowded the river side tracks.

After three locks, Sahula entered Germany - 2200 km and seven countries since the Black Sea.

"Have you seen a red Australian yacht?" - Lock masters phone to confirm a Sahula sighting. Cyclists, Leo and Barbara, (German) are friends of Crew. They "found" Sahula and were aboard for two days.

After four attempted anchoring (dam flooded lakes are to alleviate prior fast rock rapids), in ebbing dusk, Passau loomed large. A striking cityscape silhouette of medieval buildings and church spires at the junction of three rivers: Danube, Inn, Ilz. The salt trade, on large wooden boats towed by some 50 horses established the city's prosperity. The Inn flows fast and full. Its brown water mixing the smaller green Danube.

Fleets of passenger ships, attested to the tourist trade and the insignificance of one small yacht. Navigation lights on Sahula rested alongside the city river wall to be moved on by police at dawn.

"You can't stay here, there are no "sportsboot" berths till Heining..." - some 10 km upriver past the next locks.

"... you take the first bollard..." yelled the German lockmaster "...is this your first lock..." Skipper harboured foreboding as lock filling turbulence is dangerous (previous locks had filled on the entry end). The lock filled at the exit end. Never argue with a lockmaster.

Consistency in locks is missing. Their different construction dates provide many variations - filling method: exit or entry end, bottom (calmer) or at gate (very turbulent), floating or static bollards (some or all and which lock wall), if a bridge (combined lock, dam), the air height (lowest was 8 metres).

Sahula's "system:" fendered by two large "ball" fenders forward and mid aft, a wooden plank (rough, concrete lock walls) supported by two "conical" fenders, mid boat. Forward and mid boat bollard lines looped over a single lock bollard (bollards are wide apart).

Sahula contacts the lock master for instructions (VHF lock channel on chart) usually (unusual Sahula only docking) entering the lock after the "commercial" ships to take up bollards on the wall opposite the other boat. Turbulence from exiting ships is another issue. Sahula exits first only if advised.

With minimum pre-entry (average 20 minutes) and transit time (20 minutes), locks do not unduly hinder a day's passage.

The "sportsboothafen" (MYC) welcomed Sahula (all facilities, no fuel - 20 Euro a night).

"Orca's" voyage is to the Black Sea." It is shallow ahead..." Johann advises.

Bus to Passau. Cobbled narrow streets, tourist shops, medieval and 18th Century buildings for tourists, modern huge malls for the locals. Castle dominates on a hilltop with well presented museum and art gallery. Views of city below and Danube curving into the hills.

Spring is in the air - and the water. Evening families of white swans with five signets, joined by 7 ducklings.

Goodbye Deggendorf. The Danube, less Inn, is a much smaller (100m in places) rock strewn, stream. It seems a new, less major, River, winding through the plain... Its fast current cuts the narrowest and shallowest (1.9 m) over a longer distance. The "2m alarm" frequently rings its dirge. Barges (reassuringly, confident) pass by.

Weekend sun seekers line the pebble beaches. "Sportboots" (outboard, modern cruisers) streak by and anchored in off channel "bays."

Moored in an off channel "sportsboothafen" Sahula's crew dine at a beer garden. Snitzel, Spaghetti ice-cream, Banana Split, Disney Donald.

Cyclists depart, fresh "Sunday" bread shop, skype family, onto the River.

It is Sahula's shallowest day - 1.6-7m - "alarm" ringing. Skipper ponders the possibility of being 120 km from the 2400 km end on a shallowing River.

Sahula was twice, mud churning, caught by current, facing rocks. Barges prove reassuring.

Massive cumulus over mountains, give hope, prove illusory.

"Wanda" - 2500 tonnes, 110 m "...1.6m but propeller..." (was dredging).

Bogen monastery, steeple spearing, dominates from its "berg."

Evening berth past Straubing lock at the "sportsboot" wharf. Anchorages are not possible in rock strewn River. Riverside wharves, "yacht" clubs are invariably full, private and too shallow (1.4 or less).

Straubing was a River town till sliced off by a dam, lock and canalised lake. A map of Danube past shows riverine wet lands fed by a wandering watercourse. New dams for a deeper, less current, controlled, commercial Danube are controversial.

Passengers dance and dine oblivious to their passing ship's seemingly impossible intention; in the inky darkness, to navigate the rock strewn, shallows of Sahula's day.

"...it is the lowest I can remember..." Straubling local "... but it is ok from here..."

Captain Jord ("River Countess" - 115m passenger boat) "...sometimes it is millimetres to bottom..."

Sahula's last day but one on the River - in the heart of Europe. Day dawns calm, sunny. "De rigueur" is board shorts.

Land of a thousand white steepled villages, upon verdant green.

Islands of noisy, river bird colonies.

Within trees, an orchestra of the rites of spring,

Sahula snakes the "S" bends in the currentless calm.

From the hills above, in King Ludwig's huge whimsical, Doric temple (1842) 118 illustrious marble Germans stoically stand over the Danube.

St. Stephens spire spears above Regensberg's medieval city. A UNESCO World Heritage "cultural" site of well preserved cobble stone alleyways, angled, colourful, buildings, sidewalk cafes, plazas and parks

The sign says "sports" - a small boat harbour past the main town.

30 feet between pylons, Sahula enters, depth drops (2m), current surges, full on Tanya - 700 year old bridge remains unmarked - shore side tourist agog, Crew concerned.

It is too shallow (1.4), next marina, a berth (1.5m) (15 Euro/night - water, electricity, showers, fuel past next lock) - Skipper relieved...

Wifi and an internet cafés are rare in Germany. Skipper buys a sim card but finds skype is prohibited to prepaid mobiles. Government policy is to limit free phones to ensure profitable pay phones.

The "East German Gallery" exhibits a Max Peckstein (1900's impressionist) collection. Skipper is enjoying superb galleries in the Danube cities.

The "power tower" lifts thrill seeking passengers (Crew) to150 m. and drops - it is a Bavarian fair of side-show alley, beer halls and traditional dress.

Sahula is within 20 km of leaving the River at Kelheim. A time to relax.

Next Report: Goodbye Danube Hello, Main - Danube Canal.

David

23rd May, 2011

Wednesday 18 May 2011

Report no. 57 Vienna to Linz

Passage Report No. 57

May, 2011

Vienna to Passau

Vienna is not Budapest, a Queen of the River. Vienna is not a river city. Its heart is its magnificent buildings, statues and palaces. It is a Royal city, seat of the Austrian- Hungarian and Habsburg empires. The River clips the centre but a modern diversion behind a canal, passes it further east. This is where Sahula rested at the Wein Marina.

A visit to the Shronbaun Palace confirmed Vienna’s place. This “Versailles” country estate provided the Habsburgs with time out in luxurious rooms or idylling in the garden acres of forest, statues, maze and zoo.

The city estate, the Habsburg Palace equalled it in all but the “smaller” gardens. Such opulence now survives for the milling tourists.

Other palaces housed the Habsburg art collection (fine art - pre-20th century) and many others. At the Albertina gallery (impressionist to modern) Skipper revelled in art that crowds pages.

Music and art are Vienna. Mozart and Strauss, provided the music for a concert in the ornate Konzerthaus.

The Danube is rarely (one work) a subject of art. Where done it is a background. Strauss “Blue Danube” being the exception. Strauss, from a Viennese, hilltop, café, viewed the River reflecting “blue” as it snaked to the horizon.

The lyrics ( “…saccharine sweet and banal…” (Heikell)), romanticise the everyday use of the River:

“Danube so blue,

You flow straight through

The meadows and dales

Vienna now hails

Your Silvery stream

With glistening gleam,

For hearts that are happy

Beat on your shores and sweetly dream

From the forest black

To the sea you track,

You give blessing while caressing,

And while flowing East,

You have never ceased

Joining shore to shore

Forever more,

Castles from on high

Watch you passing by,

Send a fleeting

Joyful greeting

And the mountain peak

On which sun beams streak,

Is reflected in

Your waves unique.”

(Franz Gerneth, 1890)

Crew attracted by an international ice hockey match travelled to Bratislava, scored no ticket, and couldn’t contain a propensity for Danube bridge jumping (at 0300).

“…never again…” - sitting is a painful.

Tanya (engine) “enjoys” new oil. Batteries, a refill.

“Stop, stop – slow down…” - frantic waving, Sahula was in the grip of a friendly barge skipper. The lock had no “floating” bollards on one side so Sahula was invited to tie to the barge. Sahula left the lock, alongside, as the barge gathered way she was slowly, healing, folding, alarmingly, under his vessel. With relief Sahula was let go. Its skipper tooted and waved farewell – unaware of the impending disaster.

At anchor, river calm, “sundowners” – contrasts.

“Rain in Germany, very good…” Barge ((Regensburg bound - 20 days from Constanta, Romania) is keen to raise the river level. “…a flood? Skipper asks, “… only centimetres…” Tanya (engine) ponders…

Rain, wind, cold. The Wachau valley, reputedly the “jewel” of the Austrian Danube, beckons through two dam, two locks.

A passenger boat steams by. Sahula ties to a “floating” bollard astern (there are none on the opposite side)) of the passenger boat but too close to the rear gates where the filling water turbulently boils and surges. Sahula’s mooring lines and fenders are tested.

Current races through the narrow (and shallow 3-4 m), Wachau Valley. The Schonbuhel Castle (atop) riverside rock narrows the river, divided again by a mid river outcrop, plunges through a side, white water rapid. Tanya’s revs increase (2200) to slowly pass against the racing current.

Anchorages are difficult to find. Mooring pontoons are reserved for passenger boats and ferries.

“…best anchorage so far…”: Crew. Sahula anchors (2-3m) in a close shore eddy, off a sandy beach, opposite ancient, Durnstein village, marked by a blue baroque church spire, cobbled streets, amid medieval buildings. English crusader King, Richard the Lionheart, spent years in the hilltop castle dungeon. (Heikell).

Castles, colourful heritage villages, spires, terraced vineyards compose the Wachau Valley. Tanya, at 2000 revs challenges the buoy surging, current (4-5 knots).

The many monasteries, large and small, testify to the religious power. Melk Monastery stands huge - many storied, yellow and onion topped. Villages may have two or more spires.

Skipper’s watercolours record the varying church spires. Maypoles (Xmas tree atop tall pole, red white streamers) adorn each village

Sahula slowly enters the Melk lock. A barge offers an alongside berth but experience says “no thank you.” Sahula is tied to fixed bollards. As the water rises mooring lines are moved to the upper bollard. In locks after Vienna, locks may (or not) have floating bollards only on outside (not middle wall where two locks) wall.

A “yacht” harbour (Marbach, off channel, off dam lake)) provides a quiet anchorage (2-3m).

At Ybbs lock Sahula rises 12 m. The end is “gated” to limit air height (8m).

A “new” duck, black with white head dives along the shore. Wildlife resides, mostly (exception: White Swans) unseen, in off river (out of dam lakes), wetlands. Dam lakes are walled to prevent flooding of low lying wetlands. Cyclists speed by on the wall paths.

Monasteries – testament to religious power – stand yellow, onion topped and multi-story on hills and in villages. The Melk Monastery stands large.

Pre-dams, Grein was a pilot station for the Strudengau Rapids and whirlpools. Today the River narrows between steep hills, flows fast but no rapids. Castles watch over.

Skipper does small sketches (ink, watercolour) of towns, churches – life on the Danube.

Two dams, two locks and calm lakes ensure Sahula does some 70-80 kms.

Lock technique is honed: berth alongside well forward and on left side. A “ball” fender forward and aft; a wooden plank fender on two “cyclinder” fenders between (rough cement walls). Lines from boat’s center bollard (kept tight) and from forward. Both lines to one lock bollard. Lock bollard maybe “floating” or fixed (moved as boat rises). Filling turbulence is usually from lock entrance end.

Sahula passes the Linz industrial pollution to a marina. Every marina has a “Hans,” to greet, render assistance, ease life into local needs.

Sahula is in Linz two nights to refuel, resupply and see the old city heart.

Next Report No. 58 Linz to Germany.

David

18/5/11

Thursday 12 May 2011

Report 54 Belgrade to Nova Sad

Sahula Passage Report. No. 54

April, 2011

Belgrade to Nova Sad, Serbia

“Welcome to Belgrade,” George (mob: +381652082998, Dir: 011 2628250, info@restoranvodencia.co.rs), owner of the Vodenica fish restaurant in Sava River entrance, takes a line from Sahula. Coffee, liqueur and a city map, soon see Skipper and Crew amongst the Kalemegdan Citadel. Its battlements impose over the Danube and herald the city centre. The city lines the Sava rather than the Danube.

Belgrade was reputedly bland (“WWII “…reconstruction in bland concrete… not hurt to build it again (Heikell 1991);” “…one of the ugliest cities imaginable, repulsively so…” (Negley Farson, 1924) the result of some 30 reconstructions at the hands of various invaders and incipient wars to recent times.

Times have changed; Sahula’s experience is the opposite. City parks surrounded by Hapsburg and Ottoman architecture, put paid to any blandness. Open air cafes, art galleries, book shops, along tree lined streets and wide pedestrian boulevards of chic shops, people and families, make for a friendly, beautiful, vibrant, city.

“Why are you here, you don’t need to see me,” Harbour Master “frees” Sahula till exiting Serbia in Nova Sad. Once entry process is complete, Serbian ports are clear till exit.

Skipper and Crew attend a game at the Serbian Tennis Open which Serbian hero, Novak, won convincingly.

Belgrade yacht berths/marinas (apart from George’s) are in the channel off the Sava River towards the upstream Danube confluence. Another marina is upstream of it, along the River. The pontoon alongside the city, before the bridge, is reserved for passenger ships. Police, customs, Harbour Master are located at or near, the pontoon.

Captain Jord emails that the River’s shallowest depth, at Szoit, (1559) (Hungary), was 2.70 m. In a “drying” River, Sahula moves on.

Rubbish tips, suburban, city and village, plastic bags, human refuse, tipped off high bank tops, tumbling to the River. Homes (large, neat, wealthy) view from shore and rarely river recreate (few boats, apart from fishing dories). Pollution is “out of sight, out of mind.”

International River agreements, environmental ethics seem unknown, uneducated, unsupported. Danube bleeds.

Off channel, anchored; a Pusher, off course came up inside seemingly mistaking Sahula’s anchor light for a stern beacon. It grounded at two metres. A reminder: competency does not reside in all commercial captains – anchor shallow.

Captain Jord suggested exiting Serbia at Novi Sad. Reputed to have “lively cultural air…” (Heikell), Sahula would stop overnight. There are no places to stop. The pontoons are all for larger ships and the floating restaurant berth was occupied and the police (at “their” pontoon) instructed to return when leaving. Sahula anchored off under the Petrovardin fortress’s battlements.

Perhaps indicative of the few visitors on yachts was the confusion amongst officialdom. The “transit log” was deficient as there was no Harbour Master form from Veliko Gradiste. This was subsequently emailed through.

Petrovardin fortress and surrounding village is the cities greatest asset. The town is a mix of old and new along pedestrian boulevards and narrow ancient streets that feed to a square dominated by a superb tiled roof, “cathedral.” It was not a challenge to Ruse.

Sahula duly moored to the “police” pontoon (so customs could visit – they never did) to be advised that only passenger ships (like Captain Jord’s) could avoid exit at the Serbia - Croatian border town of Bezdan. Sahula, as in Belgrade, had no need to visit officialdom at all in Novi Sad.

However, the sting was yet to come. “Privatisation” meant that the pontoon “master” could claim 60 Euros for the short visit (subsequently reduced, under protest, to 30 Euros for the one hour). Crew’s short fuse on officialdom was suitably expressed and Sahula moved to anchor, a suitable distance upriver (some 5 kms). Skipper and Crew, resolved to avoid pontoons and press onto Budapest.

Next Report: Novi Sad, Bezdan, to Budapest.

David

29/4/11

report no 56, Budapest to Vienna

Passage Report No 55

May 2011

Budapest to Vienna

There is an air of expectation aboard Sahula. Budapest has been long awaited. Around a bend, industrial monoliths give way, on south side, to the Royal Palace, St Mathius Cathedral and fortress walls capping the defensible hill. This side is Buda. Opposite on the Puszta's (Hungarian plain stretching to infinity) Danube "lip" is Pest, lined with grand buildings. The grandest of all being the Parliament Buildings modelled on London's Westminster. The cities profile is preserved. No building is higher than St. Peter's Basilica.

Once both independent cities connected only by ferries. A Scotsman, Adam Clark, built the first bridge (a stolid English design) in the 1840's.. There are now six bridges that cut the current to connect Buda to Pest. Sahula passed under all, cameras clicking.

This is a city of the River. Dramatic hill statues pay homage to its aesthetic beauty. There is no evidence (including statues, reportedly stored in a museum) of the Communist past. Heroes are cultural: poets, writers, musicians, royalty and politicians.

A small marina found Sahula a secure "home" (30 Euro a night - shower, water, no wifi, laundry or fuel - another marina opposite has fuel but entry draft is 1.3m. Fuel service station and supermarket nearby.)

Two days (joining tourists hordes) exploring the city including a classical music concert in St. Stephens Citadel, National Art Gallery, city buildings and views.

Camera toting Crew in Zod (dinghy) recorded Sahula passing the Parliament Building.

Budapestrians in canoes, kayaks, modern motor boats, some picnicking on beaches or from the many riverside holiday houses, make for a busy weekend River.

Sahula joins the many passenger ships plying to Vienna. Sahula is on the Queen of Rivers, in the Valley of Kings.

Hilltop, Visegard Palace, home of 12- 15th century Hungarian royalty until bombarded by the Turkish Ottomans, destroyed by the Hapsburgs, then partially rebuilt (18th century), dominates the River. Its towering visage, provided the back ground for Sahulian "sundowners" (drinks).

It is windy, wet and cold. Cabin windows on passing passenger ships reveal no early risers.

Esztergom, some 30 km's upriver, another Royal "city", now seat of the primate of the Hungarian Catholic Church and its largest Basilica ("...only surpassed by St. Peter's (Budapest) and St. Paul's in London...."). It towered over Sahula anchored, to allow crew ashore.

Despite Hungary's, some 150 years of Ottoman Turkish rule, the only evidence is an indistinct, remanent of an Esztergom mosque minaret and paintings in the National Gallery of bloody, battlefield, Christian victories.

Slovakia on the north shore, Hungary to the south. Sahula has traversed five countries since Romania.

Skipper is advised that from Budapest to Vienna is the "...hardest part of the River..." It is shallow (2.4-4.0 m) and fast (3-4 km) winding between banks and islands. Navigation threads through green, red, markers.

An astern "north easterly" drives Sahula over the rising, "wind-v-current" sea.

Birds sing, sunset and "sundowners" in a quiet, calm, off channel. Crew exercises "Bridget" - the surfski.

Passing fast "downhill," Italian and Swedish yachts wave by. The river meanders through the flat plain and heavily timbered, rock lined, banks .

The River channel is at one point at its narrowest - 100 m. Rapids seem to have Sahula moving up current and up hill. Tanya (engine) is kept at 1800 revs and the daily kilometres to some 70. Current varies depending on river width, depth and wind. Much of the Hungarian river is deepened by rock "breakwaters" that extend perpendicular to the shore. Current backs then swirls around their extremities.

A word of gastronomic caution - unless removed, Hungarian sausage natural wrap, will clog the electric loo.

An early (1700) anchorage before the first Danube lock, dam and canal (40 km) (Hungary/ Slovakia joint project). Their construction represents a "battle" lost between those protecting the River's natural habitat and providing hydro-electric power (avoiding coal or nuclear options) and improving River navigation (Heikell).

Ruby red sunset, misty morning,

Sahula enters lock with barge and passenger ship. It is the largest lock on the Danube. Lines stretch, entry water boils, and bollards rise. Official notes that Sahula is only the second Australian yacht in memory (probably the first "uphill"). Calm "dam" lake till Bratislava.

Dam and lock is controversial due to islands, lakes and wetlands flooded by 40 km. Dam Lake.

Bratislava is a "river" city. Its mix of historic and ultra modern architecture line the River. Crowds relax on the green river frontage. The hilltop, Royal Castle dominates the city. River boils past city pontoons (commercial). There are no central "sportsbot" (yacht) mooring except at a "yachthafen" well out of town, Sahula opts for Vienna. Tourism has its limits.

The River is at it's fastest - 5 knots. Sahula weaves through the narrow channel; the current surging over the shallow water (2.0- 4.0 m). Passenger ships and ferries pull slowly by. Rapids form off end of shore rock breakwaters.

Sahula eases into a river junction anchorage under Devin Castle. Alarms ring, Sahula is aground - boiling current pushing her further in - hard astern, bow round, full ahead to freedom. Skipper breathes relief. Inlets, out of the fast current, are invariably shallow.

Sahula is in Austria, the sixth country of the Danube odyssey.

Hainsburg: castle behind, heritage buildings, a place to stop. The only pontoon is for passenger ships and ferries. Two small harbours ("yachthafen" for small outboard, motor boats) are too shallow. Sahula anchors upriver, off channel and on the edge of the main current. Passenger ship shines a search light on Sahula.

Crew "surfski's" ashore, challenging the current, to explore the town. Five passenger ships move by.

A yacht (Austrian) and motor boat (English) wave by heading downstream to Black Sea.

Viennese dam and locks protects the city from River floods. A tree branch is caught under the stern. It comes loose. It floats below the surface.

"Come over" - Police at the Vienna station call Sahula in. "We have had a call that you were seen passing packages ashore at the locks." Skipper and Crew are dumbstruck. Police are understanding.

"We do not know your Queensland Marine Drivers Licence." "It is not a river licence." Skipper explains that providing a licence is valid in country of origin, it will be valid for non- EU river users. The matter passes. 1900 kms of River "testing" seems adequate.

Sahula is welcomed to the Wein Marina (43 Euros a night/12m - all facilities, including fuel on dock. except wifi.)

Sahula has been on the River for four weeks and travelled 1940 km.

Next Report: Vienna to Main - Danube Canal into Germany.

David

14th May 2011

Thursday 5 May 2011

Report No. 55 Nova Sad to Budapest

Passage Report No.55

May, 2011

Nova Sad to Budapest

After a month on the River the unfolding riverscape across the plains was beginning to pale. It remained a beautiful river with picturesque villages along densely, wooded banks, but Budapest beckoned. As well, the added attraction of no more officialdom after entering the European Union (in Hungary) made for moving on.

Croatia (some 100 kms) was traversed in transit i.e. no ports only anchorages on an international waterway. Sahula, tactfully, flew the Serbian, Croatian, Australian and "Boxing Kangaroo," flags.

Days pass navigating, reading, preparing, inter alia, videos, articles and art and engaging the languid life of being part of an ancient river.

After Nova Sad the river narrows and shallows to between 2.7 and 3 metres. Current remained the same i.e. between 2 and 3 Km/ hour.

Vukovar's, shell pocked watertower was a reminder of the impact of the 1991 war on the city. Above it, a large, Croatian flag flew defiantly.

"They still have mines in the River in Croatia." Whether true or not, Sahula anchored on the Serbian side.

Seeming to mistake Sahula's white anchor light for her stern light, a large "pusher" grounded nearby, attempting to pass to port. Sahula's off channel and in shallow water anchorage (2-3 m) paid dividends.

River depths rapidly vary to 2.5 - 3 m. Marker buoys are often moored at the edge in shallow water. Sahula, at times, ploughed the River silt.

A flock of white swans swam idly by. Cranes fished off river sandbanks. Fish projectile at insects.

Fishers in traditional scows plied their nets. Ashore, families on holiday, played, fished and waved from their campsites and stilted, holiday bungalows.

Bezdan, the town, is not the border post. The post is on the River, the town some distance inland. Sahula booked out with helpful officials. Serbian officialdom earned kudos.

Sahula anchored on the border. Her anchor was in Hungary but the boat in Croatia. "What about the mines?" says Crew?

The "mine" however, was to be in Hungary. At Mocha village the border post is a new, yellow brick, building upriver from the town. It is not on the chart. Mike, captain, aboard the harbour launch, escorted Sahula to the pontoon.

Fuel and supplies are not available in Mochas. "... available in the yacht harbour in Baja (20 km upriver)."

All went well, passports to the Police, Customs, doctor, then a boat drivers licence was requested (during a boat search) as an E.U. requirement (which commence at Hungary) Skipper had an original, signed, licence letter but it was insufficient, "plastic" was required. This was resolved but not without some concern about identification. It was the first document "hitch" on the Danube. Skipper's "first" since leaving Australia. Sahula, Skipper and Crew are now cleared for Europe. Sahula has an 18 month VAT (tax) exemption and crew, visas are for 3 months.

Sahula passes, going downstream, the second small yacht (Austrian) destined for Turkey.

"Fuel is up canal near bridge, Tosco..." was the advice given at the small boat marina up the canal at Baja central. The "canal" proved impassable but the "Tosco" (marked on chart) source of supplies, fuel and water was correct (anchor near bridge and walk 1 km along highway).

Crew dives into a cold, polluted (sewerage, silt) River which is now shallower and its flow, faster.

Sahula is "fed" and "fuelled" for the two days to Budapest.

The Danube towns, generally, are not equipped for boating tourism other than the passenger ships. Most towns have no small boat mooring facilities. Pontoons are for cruise ships or barges and are expensive. Anchoring off may be the only solution.

The River twists and turns across the flat plains of the Puszta. The Puszta "...has been described as the dullest place in Europe. It's life...is so grey, it's dust..." (Heikell). Times change, it is now rich farm land. It stretches over half of Hungary from the Carpathian Mountains of Transylvania to the Danube.

It is here also, at the Dunadoldvar reaches, that the Danube has its least depth. Captain Jord's advice was the "...move on..." to pass here as the River would be shallower in summer. He subsequently advised that the "River Countess" had, a week before, passed with a depth of 2.7 m.

It was, providentially, evening; time to anchor. Dark clouds, wild wind, and rain saw Sahula riding out the storm at rest. A large barge stopped nearby. Passenger ships raced on.

The river, hereon, narrows, shallows and has faster, but varying flow. Sahula's progress returns to some 70 km over a 10-12 hour period. It is a cold, windy, bleak, River day.

Sahula is "...slowly catching that barge..." "... it is anchored!," "...lucky we didn't slow down to avoid passing it." A long day.

From Dunafoldvar (1560), the River depths, average, 2-3 m. River maintenance boats are re-surveying the changing channel. Rocks, off channel, create the first rapid seen on the River.

Underway at 0530, Sahula arrives in Budapest today. It is a cool, calm and sunny.

Sahula is passing the city centre. Under five bridges, into the heart of the City of the Danube.

Next Report: Budapest, City of the Danube.

Best

David

5/5/11

Wednesday 27 April 2011

Rpt 53 vidin, Hells Gate, Horriblus Danublius, Belgrade

Passage Report No. 53

Danube: Vidin, Bulgaria, Hells Gate, "Horriblus Danublius," Belgrade

April, 2011

Sahula is moored to the high, black, riveted steel side of an ancient river barge. It is the Vidin port authorities "pontoon," located near the city centre. The harbour master and port police meet, documents are checked.

Vidians promenading the river and city mall stop to view the new arrival with the "boxing kangaroo" flag flying.

Captain Jord of the river passenger ship, "River Countess" has left orders to wake him. He is expecting Skipper and Crew. A ship tour and invitation to dine confirmed "...the best meal they'll have for weeks."

Passengers (US, Australian, English and European - elderly) are intrigued by the Sahula adventure. Australian passengers more so. Captain Jord announced on ship intercom that an Australian yacht was passing close by and the crew would be aboard in port.

The Captain's Table enjoyed a gourmet meal and wine. Bulgarian Folk Dancers entertain. Camera's click of wives with yachtsman, Crew.

"River Countess" (Uniworld.com) is a 110m (361 ft, draft 1.5 m - "we clear some bridges by 10-20 cms") of luxurious, Danube and canal, cruise ship for 134 guests, between Ruse, Bulgaria and Basel, Switzerland. She takes 12 days (at speed and at night) to Sahula's two months.

A premonition of the River flow upstream: Captain Jord: "...we can only do six knots."

Time slips by: "it is the 21.st" - "Oh" - Sahula's date was the "19th"

A nearby service station provides fuel, a mall supermarket supplies. Water is not on tap.

Vidin's, wide mall, old building, riverside parks, restaurants and castle, enhance Sahula's stopover.

Sahula leaves Bulgaria to "transit" (not visit ports, only anchor) for Belgrade, Serbia. Officials are efficient - "Good trip." Harbour pontoon was free.

The River winds its way through low Romanian and Bulgarian banks. The tide turns Sahula at anchor (sandbank "820," 2-3m) on a starry night.

Chine fishing boats replace the narrow carvel design. Goat herds drink at the River.

Serbia provides the opposite river border to Romania.

To generate hydro -electricity (shared between Serbia and Romania) and to preserve river height, the River is dammed; Prahovo dam and lock system is the first. Sahula enters (no waiting time) the "concrete canyon" with a 9 barge Ukrainian pusher. "Small is beautiful." Mooring lines (amidships and forward) are placed on the "floating" bollard.

"New," neat, Serbian villages evidence those flooded by the dam. Villages line the Serbian, Danube, hillsides - colourful red roofs and well painted, some large, houses, reveals an agrarian prosperity.

100 plus kilometres - Sahula's longest daily distance (usually 70) - the dam lake reduced the current effect.

Iron Gate or the Gorges has a reputation, now much abated by the dams. Where previously a barge may take four days towed through fast currents and hidden rocks, it now is a much faster passage through flooded, high sided, gorges and locks. Then there is the "wild winds." Captain Jord: "...wild winds can come from no where with 2 m. waves."

Sahula anchors opposite Turnu Severin (930) to ensure a full "Gorge" day.

The Hells Gate lock master, "enter, lock free" (Russian - English). Sahula alone (no waiting) ties up in another two "concrete canyons" to move up, 28 m.

Lexus, Albert and Caesar wimper for attention from the lock quay. Crew is smitten by few week old, plump, (motherless) pups. Caesar opts for freedom, falls, caught by Crew, adroitly balancing his camera. Skipper vetoes a ship's dog (or three).

The "canyon" resonates to the metallic grinding of many bollards slowly floating with the rising waters then rumbles with the guillotine gates, final, frothy plunge, before the green light releases Sahula to the River.

Trajan's Tablet marks the Gorge entry. It records the "Father of the Country" - "overcame the hazards of the river" (around 103 AD) and moved an army along a cliff road (planked timbers set into the cliff) to contest the Transylvanian gold mines from Decebalus, King of the Dacians. Ensuring life thereafter, Decebalus countenance, chiselled into a granite bluff, overlooks the contested Gorge, appropriately named "Hells Gate" or "Iron Gate." For some 100 km's the River wends its way through the Transylvanian mountains cutting narrow gorges and valleys for Swiss like villages.

Sahula entered the Lower Kazan's (lower gorge) swirling current. Crew, cameraman, runs hot and exclaims; "LTD - living the dream." It is a spectacular, spiritual, place of steep, granite bluffs and towering, 1000 m., rock cirques dropping to a 150 m., wide Danube. An Orthodox Church and monastery, perches precariously over the channel.

Crew wishes to swim the gorge. Skipper provides wise counselling, "later..."

Sahula's daily distance extends to 100 km, driven by Captain Jord's "forceful gorge winds" and waves, curling astern. An "uphill" advantage.

Anchorages are "mined" by fisher's clear plastic buoys and flooded, remanent trees.

Anchored fleets of barges, a falling barometer, rising wind - premonition of the unknown.

Roman emperor's tablet cut into the gorges hill cliff, marks the River's gorges, castle guarded, exit, to again cut through the Serbian and Romanian, rolling hills and flat plains.

The distance sign ashore marks 1000 km's.

In the cliff lined, narrow gorge exit, two metre, wind whipped (30 knots), waves (katabatic gorge wind) - Sahula, the only boat moving, surfs into a dust haze.

Depth rapidly drops to 1.6, alarm sounds, visibility to metres. A near, invisible, green buoy close to port guides a relieved Skipper back on course. Relief.

In Veliko Gradiste (Serbia), Skipper is informed the River, due to the gale, has been closed.

Sahula berths alongside a barge. As a small town, Veliko Gradiste officials are reputed efficient. The barge is leaving, the River has been "opened." Sahula glides alongside a pontoon, Tanya (engine) shudders, clunks and stops. Sahula ties to the pontoon. A rope is around the propeller.

Skippers considers the worst - bent shaft and/or propeller - stranded in a small town, 1000 km in deepest, Eastern Europe.

The cold, yellow grey, green, Danube challenges its removal. Crew dives in, freezes, hyperventilates, in nil visibility, dives three times and cuts clear the rope (20mm mooring line), freeing the propeller. Teeth chattering, Crew, shivers and shudders to warmth.

There is no damage. Relief is palpable.

The pontoon owner demands 30 Euro for four hours - "you must go." Sahula, pays for peace - anchors off.

Skipper was warned the Serbians had invented a new meaning for "bureaucratic." Vladimir, English speaking, helps out. "no you don't need an agent (18 in town) you must go to the Harbour Master, then the Border Police and Customs (all close by). The Serbian "river permit" to go to Belgrade, costs 50 Euro; you must hand in your passport if you go to your anchored yacht and get it back to tour the town; you must pay the permit fee at a bank (special form required to deposit into a special account). To depart you must go again to the Border Police and Harbour Master and receive your permit, then you can leave - I know, it is terrible, it is the Serbian system."

"Why does Sahula need a river permit, isn't it an international waterway?" "Serbia owns the River off Serbia; it doesn't recognise the international waters - I know, I know..."

Skipper and Crew fill fuel containers at a local service station, buy food at the nearby supermarket and enjoy a meal and beer in the town square. A day marked as Sahula's "horriblus Danublius"

Crew's birthday (24) passes uneventfully - thankfully. Border Police officer, "You leave?, strong wind today." Officialdom has been helpful - "it is the system." Fleets of barges are anchored, awaiting improved weather. Sahula, released, sped before it.

Off Ram village (1075), Roman fort guarded the steep sided channel. At Smederevo (1115) once an ancient capital (1430), a large fortress, built as defence against the advancing Turks, confronts the River.

Anchorage is under the power lines (1145), Ashore the village, Donja Vinca's rubbish dump pollutes the River. A utilitarian anchorage to ensure an early arrival at Belgrade (1170).

Tanya drives Sahula to her first river capital.

Next Report: Belgrade, Nova Sad, Croatia, Hungary.

David

24th April, 2011

Friday 22 April 2011

Report no.52 Danube: Ruse to Vidin

Passage Report No. 52

April, 2011

Danube: Ruse to Vidin, Bulgaria

Mehmet Pasha, Ottoman mayor, envisaged Ruse as the “Vienna of the East.” The imposing, elaborate, decorative, 18th century architecture of the private and public buildings (onion tops reflect a later Russian invasion), squares, parks, tree lined streets and boulevards, in which chic, modern citizens live and promenade, evidence the dream.

Not all, however, merging to suburbia, the dull, decaying, suburban apartment blocks, grey, cement rendered, red roofed, cottages, decaying factories, belie the apparent prosperity.

Once, a major Danube port and shipbuilding centre, Ruse, in decay, awaits economic resurgence. The cities importance made it the residence of twelve ambassadors before Sofia (strategically inland away from Danubian border) was slated as the political capital.

This is a region where the winds of war ensured fathers had many sons. Elder promenaders store comparatively recent memories of the violent, at times glorious, past.

Skipper and Crew admire also other assets: the female beauty, the Orthodox, St. Dimitar Basarbovski’s rock monastery (outside town), the Ruse Art Gallery.

Sahula is rests at the Ruse Yacht Club (18 Euros per night – hot/cold shower, washing machine, no potable water, nearby service station fuel).

Members provide knowledge of the River: Barges must anchor at night unless they have at least two watch keepers (12 hours), Barges are best approached (no VHF) in the River for going alongside (Company offices and some barges charge a fee). Bulgarian barges moored in Ruse refused Crew’s overtures (Ukrainian is best).

City satiated, Sahula motors into the wide, flow of the River, Vidin (Bulgaria) bound

A Danubian “Battle of the Bulge” confronts Sahula, Upstream, the River website reports a 24cm river rise. Waters boil and Buoys lean to the faster flow.

River traffic increases after Ruse, including low, flat, River cruise ships. Multi-national barges have their navigation cabins on hydraulics for upstream, cross river bridges. A car carrier barge moves fast past.

“500” “600” markers pass requiring Chart book No. 2. (Of 8)

The River narrows at the bland, industrial, Svistova, facilitating the Danube crossing of many invaders: Roman, Byzantines, Turks, Russians and WWII German armies.

Skippers sketches record the tree lined bank’s spring golden colours.

Sahula’s anchorages favour alongside mid river sandbanks to avoid sunken tree trunks ripped from the eroding river banks.

Barometer drop heralds dark, stormy skies.

A yellow cloud of industrial pollution (Romanian fertilizer factory) engulfs the opposite Bulgarian heritage (Roman Emperor Tarzan’s fortress and Crusader, Turk battlefield) of Nikapol village.

Sahula passes by Somovit, Oriachova, Baikal, - immobile ports, silent, grey, red roofed, riverside villages.

First yacht, Austrian, outboard powered, waves heading downhill.

Mid-stream, sandbank current laps Sahula’s hull (650, 3m), night traffic (light glaring, fast, passenger ship, barges, police launch) pass into inky blackness...

Skipper removes Sahula’s green flashing anchor light, leaving the LED white light...

Red sunrise, calm, neat, peaceful Bulgarian hillside villages - Dolni Varin, Vadin Varin.

Night anchored and passing barges wave. A five barge wide pusher barge heads downstream. Commerce in continium.

Morning River, eternal flows, synergizes river moods to life. River colours luminesce – gold, browns vibrant greens, mirrored in flowing placid calms and brown, green, river swirls. White smoke, a yellow school bus, animals grazing, cormorants diving, birds flock, flying low, ducks amongst the rooted river bank – a new Danubian day of a village, a boat, a river.

Villages hide behind a dyke, on top, citizens promenade

Sahula surfs before a morning southerly – wind against current, on a clear, warm, summer day. Crew isn’t yet in board shorts –

trust takes time – later, on the surf ski, swimming.

Gravel takes the anchor (728, 4m), well clear of the shipping channel. Skipper buoys the anchor to assist if sunken trees.

Ruby red dusk painted river, “Sundowners” – Bulgarian cheese and chardonnay - another day.

River sides are distinct; Romanian – a low, flat, plain with reafforested banks; low Bulgarian hills, river beaches, resist the River’s flow. Neat villages dot the hills.

Islands of old forest – tall, proud, chaotic, sustainable, compare to the disciplined precision of anti-river plantings.

“Mountains, mountains” – Crew, the mountaineer, exclaims sighting the snow covered peaks of the Bulgarian Balkan Range. Post Viden, the River enters the “Iron Gates” gorges.

“River Countess” a, low slung, “spic,” river passenger ship, passengers waving, draws speedily alongside. Captain Jordan (VHF) advises to “press on,” the Hungarian Danube sector is “drying up with 1.5 -1.8 m likely.” “Winter snow-melt has gone down; rain is not forecast.” Sahula draws 1.5-1.7m.

His ship draws 1.5 m is enroute to Basel, Switzerland. Also Viden bound, an invitation is extended to Sahula’s crew to lecture passengers on Skipper’s travels and exchange River information. It is readily accepted.

Crew, “seal like” slips into the cold Danube. A fishing line (from Ruse) is clicking against the hull from the propeller. It must be removed. Hyperventilating, Crew dives successfully.

Sahula is moored alongside an ancient barge, now a Viden harbour pontoon. The Border Police and Harbourmaster meet.

Fuel, water and supplies, a tourist walk and onto Hells Gate Gorge to Belgarde, Serbia.

Next Report No. 53: Dining on the Captains Table, onto Belgrade.

David