PR 40 Return to Sigacik

Passage Report No. 40

Return to Sigacik

Flying in a "cigar" with some hundreds of people, is not a criteria for good health. Neither is flying from climatic warmth to seemingly seering cold. Skipper was laid low by a virus. A winter return to Sigacik.

The Arctic steppes northerlies leaned Sahula to the dock. March, April passed. "...in two weeks..." say the locals it will be warm. Skipper emerged to prepare Sahula for departure. The deck was painted, varnishing completed, winches overhauled, new compass installed.... The "list" seemed in control if not a trifle shorter. Skipper found time to walk the wildflower covered Teos hills, to explore ancient Teos, to sketch and paint - "Olive Tree Lane," "Sigacik boats," "Teos Marina." Skipper pioneers a "bush" track through forest and farmland to the ancient city, Acropolis, theatre and bouleterion (small covered theatre or parliament). Much is lost to centuries old farms, soil cover and over growth. The Theatre seats were taken to build Sigacik's defensive walls. Teos city walls snaked 6 km to the harbour. The extensive remains of the Temple of Dionysis (God of Theatre) celebrate the thespian roots.

Skipper first sail of the season is in Yilmaz's "Sirene" (32 foot, Bavaria)., in wind and cold. Chai in picturesque Urla Harbour.

The artisans of Yagcilar - the hill side village, home to Sema (the "mermaid") and Serhat (the architect, model maker (6 foot Galleon), winemaker, sculptured each stone of Serhat's boutique hotel, looking out over the rural scenery. Skipper walked the forest tracks and village roads.

With Izmir friends, Binnur, Sevinc, Tulin, Mali, Skipper had breakfast in a country restaurant, lunch in the Bedelmer market (Alevi sect village with no mosque and centre of theatre), dinner in a Sigacik harbour fish restaurant. A typical Izmir Sunday of relaxation centered around food. Turks eat well and often. Food is the core of socialization and family.

The Teos Marina gains trees and plants. Sahula is nearing departure date.

Sahula did depart the concrete wall, dust and construction noise for a marina wharf.

Sahula had been moored near the workers barracks - males from Adana in S-E Turkey.

Sigacik will be glad they are gone. "We have put steel bars on our houses. There are now six police, where there were two..." Skipper's experience is contrary: no conflict, no theft, only friendly, contented people away from their villages and families working long hours for little pay. It is a privilege to know them.

The "list" determines departure. A rust check forward to aft, required some painting. Skipper found Oscar. His Eulogy read:

"Those of you who know Oscar - the Alanya "Houdini" rat - will be pleased to know he was discovered "soul-less (?) in Sahula's forward cabin. He has been buried at sea with full rat honours. Only bone and fur eating fish attended.

Some loved Oscar for his tenacity and spirit. He evaded the Alanya rat traps (eating finely tuned cheese), escaped (fur missing) sticky pads and Skipper waiting, rod in hand , but not rat poison.

He chewed Skipper's sea boots, sail bags and paper but sportingly upholstery, plastic hoses and electrical cables were not to his liking..

His soul rose to rat heaven. His earthly remains, remained, thankfully, odourless. RIP"

Sahula has had her yearly rust check - bow to stern. Not having fore and aft stringers ensures Sahula has minimal rust. Each hull material determines different maintenance regimes. Steel, while strongest, requires continual oversight. No material can claim the Excalibur. Fiberglass sooner or later requires expensive osmosis treatment (water seeps into the glass fibres). Skipper hears of some of the Red Sea rally fleet having expensive treatment in Turkey. Timber has dry rot and borers, cement has deterioration. All are frustrating. Steels major benefit is its hull integrity. With minimal through hull fittings leaks are rare. If steel leaks it is rust the cause and the welder the solution.

The future may be that of the "car": mass production, frequent model updates, short term ownership and warranted maintenance, It is for the wealthy few. Lesser souls buy second hand boats.

Yachts are "growing" in size. A marina survey shows the average length has progressed from 30 to 50 feet. Slim, sleek, hidden and speed, dictates design. The adage "go small, go simple, go soon" (Pardys) seems only for "lesser souls." "Simple" now means: water maker, bread maker, fridge, freezer, hot water, shower, pressure taps, air-conditioning, vacuum cleaner, washing machine and the growing accoutrements of touch button electronic navigation and a bow thruster - all requiring a built in, sound muffled, fuel powered, electrical generator Aesthetics dictate against solar panels and wind generators. Sustainability has been dethroned. Maintenance requires a third party and large bank account.

"Arwen of Bosham" (Bob and Jacky) pass through. The marina is evolving from a construction site to a yacht haven (it is free).

Skipper presents "Teos Marina", a colourful art work (canvas, acrylic) to Cuneyd (Marina manager) and Firat (Director). A plaque states "In appreciation of the kindness and hospitality provided ...during winter 2009-10." Skipper is informed the Turkish flag crescent is reversed. Skipper quickly repaints it. Turks are a proud people. The painting is to be hung in the marina office.

A week of cold northerlies. Skipper is restless. The Marina lift out crane requires repair. Departure requires a propeller shaft realignment and antifouling.

A respite. A day shopping in Izmir's colourful Kameralti (Konak) market bizarre. Ceaseless crowds writhe through the narrow, noisy streets, harassed by hopeful shop owners. Art supplies are inexpensive. Strangely watercolor is not sold.

Yilmaz (businessman and friend) prints Skipper's blogs in preparation for writing articles. His driver ( of many skills) arranges repair of Skippers leather boots and prints Sahula's "business" card. Skippers buys a pressure cooker (fuel saving?), reads the "Guardian" (UK) over pide (thin pizza), sips chai to watch the crowd go by.

Sunday market in Sigacik bring Izmir "tourists" to its walled, twisting streets. Signs mark other villages stalls. The matrons of Sigacik, dressed in the uniform of traditional flowery pants, top, scarf and jacket (proven best suited to working the fields) provide local food and crafts.

Skipper buses to Marmaris to attend a Cruising Association dinner and stay with Peter, Barbara and Wifi (electronically tagged cat) on Musketelle in Yacht Marina. Over a thousand yachts berthed "cheek and jowl", a fender apart and on hardstand. A yachting "caravan" park of stressed, "international", people. Skipper is thankful for winter in sparse, simple, hospitable, Turkish, Sigacik.

Sahula is the Marina's first lift out. Staff stop work to observe history. Old habits die hard - timber supports chock the hull preventing a full painting. The propeller shaft skeg is out of alignment. It is cut off and re-welded. Alignment requires a new propeller shaft. How long will it take - "Insallah" (it is with God).

Skipper applies anticorrosive, primer and antifouling paint. Black antifouling proves difficult to obtain. "Black - all boats in Turkey are Red or Blue!" Sahula changes to "Blue."

Workers query: "Is David aboard, the boats on sticks." "What about earthquakes?" Skipper tries to expedite the watery return.

The blue and red livery is lowered to the sea. But not before satisfying a celebratory tradition. Skipper provides Coca Cola and baklava for the hardstand workers.

Skipper imports an ultra light tent and rucksack from the USA. "I know because I live in Turkey" Dogan describes the customs bureaucracy. "I will come with you." Reminiscent of India, four times, a desk looks, another stamps and another checks the stamp and collects a fee. A "short" two hours. Dogan guides a thankful Skipper. Goods valued over 150 Euros pays 20% tax, customs and other fees. Skipper is determined to go lightweight trekking.

Lawn adorns the Marina gardens. Palms struggle for life. The swimming pool is complete. The workers fade away to an uncertain future. All is silent. The Prime Minister is due to cut the ribbon.

Sahula is to live free, continue her cruise in the Aegean. Warm winds, clear skies; it is time to go.

Next Report: Sigacik to Greece

Best

David

PR 39 Australia

Sahula Passage Report No. 39

Australia Feb- March 2010

It is a journey through culture time. Below Istanbul, East and West, a morass of concrete devoid of green, home to some 20 million. Over the dry Anatolian wastes; below numerous remote villages impossibly in amongst brown, white peaks; Dhubian white flowing robes, head dresses: ocean blue: sea of clouds, sunrise over the dry, red, Aboriginal "deserts" of the Great South Land.

Descending over Sydney, harbour sails, Opera House, Harbour Bridge, endless green suburban parks and gardens - a homecoming capped by an emotional "flood" ensued upon sighting daughters, Annalise and Nichola. Skipper is home.

Friends and family engaged in a social whirl. Recollections honed to spellbound and hilarious perfection. The different life of the cruising sailor contrasted to the city and suburban stimulation. Skipper soon not sure who heard what. Recount followed recount.

The bonhomie of friends and family, the face to face, tugged at Skipper's cruising resolve: to be back sooner or later, to "do" Europe or turn left at Gibraltar, are tossed and turned. Family and friends declare intentions to "crew" Sahula on an Aegean odyssey. Time in Sydney, Brisbane and Townsville is soon gone.

In Townsville, Jan and Mike's "Bon Voyage No. 2" dinner party enabled Skipper to have too short a time with many friends. In Sydney and Brisbane, Skipper's daughters generously yielded "sleeping" floor space. In Brisbane a slowly deflating "lilo" - courageously attempted to re-inflate with a hairdryer. Skipper slowly lowered to the floor. In Sydney, a mattress in the corner. Time slipped by - all too short.

In Bondi - iconic Sydney surfing beach, Skipper drenched in sun and surf with daughters and friends. Friends in beautiful homes on Pittwater and Moreton Bay exposed a lifestyle of home, boat and bay. Winter in Turkey seemed remote.

The cruising life was exposed as too free, almost surreal compared to those ashore whose daily life is bather in political and social - local, state, national and international - news and work. How much intellectual stimulation = its expression and varied sources - is disengaged by a cruising lifestyle. A cruiser finds stimulation in the varied people, history and culture. At times it seems such variation coalesces into a single, monolithic experience. Does the cruising lifestyle require the satisfaction of a change from the continual voyaging, to joining those ashore in their multifarious pursuits

Even a cruiser, in perhaps the least expensive of lifestyles cannot escape the financial reality. Skipper blithely cruised while economics burned. Invested funds were drastically reduced, requiring a reassessment of cruising plans. Skipper considered how to forge an income consistent with the lifestyle. The challenge is to maintain the benefits of a cruising retirement with a lifestyle consistent occupation. Writing, painting came to the fore. Both would require considerable discipline to make space within the practical needs of cruising. Returning, annually, to Australia to teach courses is another option. Skipper has found that the lifestyle can be sustained by a minimal income.

Daughters, living their lifestyles with apparent needs of parental input provided Skipper with another challenge. The enjoyment of being there is not overcome by technology utilizing communication in a far off place. Skype, technology provides voice and visual contact but does not supplant being present. It is a cost of cruising that this human need is lost. Special family events and aging offspring are inescapable losses.

Medical matters are another challenge. Skipper, in Australia, had a full medical check-up. On return to Turkey, events emphasised the need to have time and a familiar environment to resolve medical matters. Cruisers often take advantage of seemingly high quality medical attention overseas at less cost than home. However, in most cases, expense should not be high level criteria.

On return to Sigacik, Skipper suffered a virus (attributed to a long, plane flight). The marina (at no cost) arranged a local doctor (English speaking). Skipper also attended Seferihisar dentist (English speaking) who skillfully resolved the problem at low cost.

Skipper attended an eye doctor at the local hospital. In Turkey, the eye doctor assesses the problem and writes a glasses prescription. A glasses shop then assesses the appropriate glasses. The former spoke English the latter did not. Despite an English speaking marina staff attending both chambers, the glasses where unsatisfactory and expensive. Skipper settled for a lesser sum and the benefit of experience.

Skipper resolved to only attend medical personnel (in non-emergency cases) who spoke English.

Leaving a home country, where previously its dynamics fleeted by in the course of life, provides, on the return, an opportunity to overview. Skipper had been away two years. Australians lead a relatively free and bountiful life. Youth have an education and future of their making. Those older have security. Families set their own criteria. Individual independence is the core of Australian society. Democracy and liberalism define politics and economy to created a unique, modern lifestyle. "Culture" does not describe Australian society except in the Aboriginal community.

Skipper returned to Turkey to find headlines of a young wife's, culturally motivated, brutal assault by male family; of allegations of a deep state army political coup; of 14.5% unemployment and an economy growing by 7-8%; allegations of politically manipulated courts. It is a world away from Australia. In both countries, despite such concerns, people accept their lives and live in relative peace. It is good to be back. Skipper took some time to settle into the cruising mode.

Next Report Return to Sigacik,

David

Sv Sahula