Passage Report No. 76
Stavanger (Tanager) to Trondheim
Friends, people - make cruising, indeed life. It was farewell. Sahula slipped the lines and began the journey to beyond the Arctic Circle.
Sahula would cruise from Tanager, across to the Karmsund.
A calm day, a million islands and an anchorage in a quiet inlet - Dragoyvika, Fosenoy Is. (6m).
Placing the digital chart computer (12 inch screen) in the cockpit proved a success for solo navigation. Paper chart backup gave an overview and marked optional anchorages.
The "USB dongle" allowed detailed online weather reports (www.yr.no).
Solo requires being in the cockpit fulltime. Skipper prepares lunch, drinks, nibbles and all necessary clothes for a variety of conditions. Self steering is on but used only where channels are wide.
Sahula will transit the notorious Slett (open coast) into Bomlafjord, Langenuen and Lysefjord.
The former two are busy shipping lanes to Bergen.
Early departure ensures calm conditions to up anchor.
Haugesund harbours a contrast between a large viking ship amongst the huge Atlantic oil rig tenders.
The Slett is calm. Sahula sails the Bomlafjord. Into Langenuen headwinds; its steep forested, mountains; deep blue, green. Towards the coast, fjords cleave deep to light blue; snow patched mountains swirl in cloud - classic Norway scenery.
Heading northerly winds, Tanya drives on to Lysefjord and to Lysoy Island (Lomax, p. 128).
Sahula navigates slowly through emerald seas between the green topped, rock grey, islands to the boat width entry to Lysoyvagen inlet.
Inside a yacht anchored midway ensures a near shore position requires a stern line. Helpful skipper runs the line. "You were too cautious" - Norwegians anchor close together. Sahula is at anchor in clear, green, surrounded by heavily forested, steep sides.
The island was home to Ole Bull, Norwegian patriot, famed 19th century, violinist and composer. He bought the island with proceeds of concerts (in USA) and selling diamond brooches (gifts from royalty). His Villa stands today testimony to his creativity. Its architecture and interior, an ornate combination of St Petersburg coppula, moorish, Italian and Spanish influence.
Skipper tours the Villa and walks the many paths. It is an unique conservation of a naturally beautiful island.
Early morning calm ensures Sahula clears the anchorage. Passage is into the shipping channel, Raunefjord, Sauahl, Fuglaskj, Kallanshl, Bysfjorden, Kvernfjord and Mangersfjord. Passage is shared with shipping and ferries racing across. Numerous fish farms occupy fjord bays.
The passage passes Bergen, Norway's second city. Sahula may visit on her return journey.
She presses onto Alversund, a town nearby, where there is a package for collection. However, Skipper confuses the town with Alesund, some four days away.
Sahula presses on as the afternoon rising NW'ly comes in.
By mid-afternoon, 20 knot headwinds dictate an anchorage. Skipper choses anchorages from notes in the Guide (Lomax) or from an anchor symbol on the paper chart.
Uttoskavagen, an inlet between Toska and Uttosko Islands, is marked by an "anchor." It is free of overhead power cables, and some 10 m. depth. Depth is critical where waters can plunge some 100 m. close to shore.
Skipper opts to enter - albeit, slowly. Through a one boat width entrance, into a calm lagoon. Brown water denotes covered rocks. Sahula anchors in 7m. in a wild, remote, natural place.
Calm as the sun rises, Sahula presses north, through the Hjeltfjord, through islands and skerries to the Fenfjord, Bradangersund, Sognesjoen, Krakhellesund, Buefjord, Vilnesfjord, Granesund, Strongfjord, Brufjord to Rekstafjord.
Morning crystal light etches the sinewy, blue brown of ancient mountains; their blunt, rock rawness seeming to defie human habitation. Yet there is, always is, some hut, house or cabin.
Many mainland mountains snow fields, sunlight glow radiating through the high country storms. A scenic spectacle from the sunny sea.
A sleek, passenger liner strides past to enter a fjord.
Dolphins (told they are a small whale specie) lazily amble by. White, black ducks rapidly pass. Seagulls occupy the islets.
Ships ply to Floro, a large town.
Sahula enters the calm, natural sanctity of Langevika, an inlet on Reksta Island (Lomax: 145). Warm meal, rest after a 12 hour day.
Sahula takes the inland route past Hovden to Frosjoen, into Fafjord, Ulvessund to Sildegapet (south of Statt Peninsula) and Selje Island.
Skipper sketches the passing mountain spectacle - snow patched peaks over deep green valleys; grey rock monoliths.
Some yachts pass.
Frosjoen's wide narrows as steep, bare cliffs funnel into fjords and backdrop snow, mountains. Far off, string waterfalls foam into oblivion.
Sahula passes under dramatic, snow capped, Hornelen - Europe's highest sea cliff - towering 900 m. Waterfalls lace the sides.
Skipper exudes, "God this is a spectacular place!"
Sahula anchors at Klostervag on Selje Island "under" the ruins of St. Sunniva Monastery (Lomax, 149). Established in 1070 by British Benedictine Monks, its diocese served strategically located ports for British and North Sea islands. It functioned till plague ravished the population in 1536-37. A serene, placid, place of pastel blues and silver greys.
St. Sunniva's myth coincided with its decline. Daughter of an Irish noble, she refused to marry a Viking chief and set sail, landing and perishing on Selje Island. Miracles are attributed to her remains found in a cave above the Monastery's ruin. Iron age remains proved an earlier (200-570 AD) occupation.
Skipper trekked to the summit. Peter, a local fisherman came by.
"Do you need a crew - to the Carribbean - it rains, rains all the time here. It is not the winter, not much snow here and temperature is ok, but the sun, we hardly see it!"
Sahula rests; early departure to round the notorious, Stattlandet (peninsula) another (after Lindesnes) "dangerous seas" area.
It is a calm passage into cold, wet, sunless, mountain shrouded, day. Skipper adds layers. Cold seeps in, wind cuts.
Sahula anchors behind Sula Island, after collecting the Aries block from friends in Hundelvik, a village across the fjord. It's a utilitarian place useful for shallow water and good holding. Ferries come and go nearby.
Diesel blow heater provides evening relief.
Cloud lifts to reveal endless snow patched peaks. Sahula passes Alesund and goes into the "outer route."
Small "dolphins" gamble by (told they are small whale).
Amongst the islands, the guides designate routes: outer, inner and inner inner. The "inners" gives protection but requires intricate navigation amongst islands, islets and rocks.
Remote villages or communities, invariably occupy small, bare, islands and bays. Skipper ponders the isolated lifestyle there, through cold winds, rain, overcast, winter darkness, gales, given respite in short summer sunshine and the ferry.
Many "houses" are now summer retreats. Country living is literally retreating in the face of city urbanisation. Hence, the villages or communities (while well maintained) seem bare and lifeless except for many Norwegian flags.
A SW'ly drives Sahula outside the fjords, amongst low, wind swept, islands- Tanya takes a rest. Increasing to 26 knots and short, following seas, Sahula "gladly" enters Bud (it has to be friendly) fishing village, harbour, alongside the "guest" pontoon (120 NK, including electricity, facilities extra)
After a week underway, a hot showers soothes.
Sahula will rest here for supplies (fresh bread, fresh food), engine maintenance and to install the new Aries block.
SW'ly rings in the rigging.
Ralf, German skipper, relates how he gave up looking at computers and during illness, built his steel yacht (11m) to cruise, but "...the wife wants to work..." They are cruising "north" but "...she has to be back by September."
Orcas (whales) and puffins are reported in the area.
Two other cruisers have left. Curious, Skipper checks the weather report. Today a southerly, tomorrow a northerly. Sahula departs for Kristiansund.
Passage is through the Hustadvika - "...this is considered to be a particularly dangerous and exposed area..." (Lomax, 166)
"The inshore Stoplane route..." has "...intricate navigation through narrow marked passages between skerries... should only be attempted in settled weather and good visibility..." (Lomax, 166).
Sahula, Tanya and Maxsea (digital charts) thread through the well marked (new) channels, under the Atlantic Highway bridge (23m) into the Korstad, Kevrnes and Bremnes fjords.
Small farms line the fjords. Fodder farming is the major use. During summer, livestock is grazed on the interior high plateaus. Farms pool resources to compensate for their small size. Houses become city owners, summer cottages. A changing community landscape.
Regulations prevent the sale of country land for summer housing.
Royalty is different in Norway.
There are no grand nobles homes or castles on strategic points.
Historically, the remoteness of communities engendered an independence that didn't foster a nobility. Allegiance was to the King only who managed national issues. The title was hereditary.
"The King is very popular - he is a man of the people."
In Kristiansund, cruisers met in Bud, assist going alongside the guest wharf (150 NK).
Kristiansund (pop 77,000) thrives on fishing and oil. Heavily bombed in WWII, it has a modern face.
Its spirit is epitomised by the new cathedral. Organ practice dramatically emphasised the superbly designed, sweeping, stainglass, interior.
Sahula takes on food, fuel (9.95 NK) and water.
It is time to fish. Sahula departs for Golma anchorage (Lomax, 171) amongst the skerries. Water to the pan; a mackerel rewards Skipper's efforts.
"Home" is a rock islet (few metres from Sahula) for three fuzzy, brown, seabird (large "seagull") chicks. Ashore, a red fox ponders how to cross the channel.
In a few short weeks, the chicks, as adults, must confront winter.
Three nights in Golma, fishing, painting, Sketching, walking and observing nature. Time to move onto Trondheim.
Next Report: Trondheim to Arctic Circle
David
sv Sahula
26/06/12
