Rpt 53 vidin, Hells Gate, Horriblus Danublius, Belgrade

Passage Report No. 53

Danube: Vidin, Bulgaria, Hells Gate, "Horriblus Danublius," Belgrade

April, 2011

Sahula is moored to the high, black, riveted steel side of an ancient river barge. It is the Vidin port authorities "pontoon," located near the city centre. The harbour master and port police meet, documents are checked.

Vidians promenading the river and city mall stop to view the new arrival with the "boxing kangaroo" flag flying.

Captain Jord of the river passenger ship, "River Countess" has left orders to wake him. He is expecting Skipper and Crew. A ship tour and invitation to dine confirmed "...the best meal they'll have for weeks."

Passengers (US, Australian, English and European - elderly) are intrigued by the Sahula adventure. Australian passengers more so. Captain Jord announced on ship intercom that an Australian yacht was passing close by and the crew would be aboard in port.

The Captain's Table enjoyed a gourmet meal and wine. Bulgarian Folk Dancers entertain. Camera's click of wives with yachtsman, Crew.

"River Countess" (Uniworld.com) is a 110m (361 ft, draft 1.5 m - "we clear some bridges by 10-20 cms") of luxurious, Danube and canal, cruise ship for 134 guests, between Ruse, Bulgaria and Basel, Switzerland. She takes 12 days (at speed and at night) to Sahula's two months.

A premonition of the River flow upstream: Captain Jord: "...we can only do six knots."

Time slips by: "it is the 21.st" - "Oh" - Sahula's date was the "19th"

A nearby service station provides fuel, a mall supermarket supplies. Water is not on tap.

Vidin's, wide mall, old building, riverside parks, restaurants and castle, enhance Sahula's stopover.

Sahula leaves Bulgaria to "transit" (not visit ports, only anchor) for Belgrade, Serbia. Officials are efficient - "Good trip." Harbour pontoon was free.

The River winds its way through low Romanian and Bulgarian banks. The tide turns Sahula at anchor (sandbank "820," 2-3m) on a starry night.

Chine fishing boats replace the narrow carvel design. Goat herds drink at the River.

Serbia provides the opposite river border to Romania.

To generate hydro -electricity (shared between Serbia and Romania) and to preserve river height, the River is dammed; Prahovo dam and lock system is the first. Sahula enters (no waiting time) the "concrete canyon" with a 9 barge Ukrainian pusher. "Small is beautiful." Mooring lines (amidships and forward) are placed on the "floating" bollard.

"New," neat, Serbian villages evidence those flooded by the dam. Villages line the Serbian, Danube, hillsides - colourful red roofs and well painted, some large, houses, reveals an agrarian prosperity.

100 plus kilometres - Sahula's longest daily distance (usually 70) - the dam lake reduced the current effect.

Iron Gate or the Gorges has a reputation, now much abated by the dams. Where previously a barge may take four days towed through fast currents and hidden rocks, it now is a much faster passage through flooded, high sided, gorges and locks. Then there is the "wild winds." Captain Jord: "...wild winds can come from no where with 2 m. waves."

Sahula anchors opposite Turnu Severin (930) to ensure a full "Gorge" day.

The Hells Gate lock master, "enter, lock free" (Russian - English). Sahula alone (no waiting) ties up in another two "concrete canyons" to move up, 28 m.

Lexus, Albert and Caesar wimper for attention from the lock quay. Crew is smitten by few week old, plump, (motherless) pups. Caesar opts for freedom, falls, caught by Crew, adroitly balancing his camera. Skipper vetoes a ship's dog (or three).

The "canyon" resonates to the metallic grinding of many bollards slowly floating with the rising waters then rumbles with the guillotine gates, final, frothy plunge, before the green light releases Sahula to the River.

Trajan's Tablet marks the Gorge entry. It records the "Father of the Country" - "overcame the hazards of the river" (around 103 AD) and moved an army along a cliff road (planked timbers set into the cliff) to contest the Transylvanian gold mines from Decebalus, King of the Dacians. Ensuring life thereafter, Decebalus countenance, chiselled into a granite bluff, overlooks the contested Gorge, appropriately named "Hells Gate" or "Iron Gate." For some 100 km's the River wends its way through the Transylvanian mountains cutting narrow gorges and valleys for Swiss like villages.

Sahula entered the Lower Kazan's (lower gorge) swirling current. Crew, cameraman, runs hot and exclaims; "LTD - living the dream." It is a spectacular, spiritual, place of steep, granite bluffs and towering, 1000 m., rock cirques dropping to a 150 m., wide Danube. An Orthodox Church and monastery, perches precariously over the channel.

Crew wishes to swim the gorge. Skipper provides wise counselling, "later..."

Sahula's daily distance extends to 100 km, driven by Captain Jord's "forceful gorge winds" and waves, curling astern. An "uphill" advantage.

Anchorages are "mined" by fisher's clear plastic buoys and flooded, remanent trees.

Anchored fleets of barges, a falling barometer, rising wind - premonition of the unknown.

Roman emperor's tablet cut into the gorges hill cliff, marks the River's gorges, castle guarded, exit, to again cut through the Serbian and Romanian, rolling hills and flat plains.

The distance sign ashore marks 1000 km's.

In the cliff lined, narrow gorge exit, two metre, wind whipped (30 knots), waves (katabatic gorge wind) - Sahula, the only boat moving, surfs into a dust haze.

Depth rapidly drops to 1.6, alarm sounds, visibility to metres. A near, invisible, green buoy close to port guides a relieved Skipper back on course. Relief.

In Veliko Gradiste (Serbia), Skipper is informed the River, due to the gale, has been closed.

Sahula berths alongside a barge. As a small town, Veliko Gradiste officials are reputed efficient. The barge is leaving, the River has been "opened." Sahula glides alongside a pontoon, Tanya (engine) shudders, clunks and stops. Sahula ties to the pontoon. A rope is around the propeller.

Skippers considers the worst - bent shaft and/or propeller - stranded in a small town, 1000 km in deepest, Eastern Europe.

The cold, yellow grey, green, Danube challenges its removal. Crew dives in, freezes, hyperventilates, in nil visibility, dives three times and cuts clear the rope (20mm mooring line), freeing the propeller. Teeth chattering, Crew, shivers and shudders to warmth.

There is no damage. Relief is palpable.

The pontoon owner demands 30 Euro for four hours - "you must go." Sahula, pays for peace - anchors off.

Skipper was warned the Serbians had invented a new meaning for "bureaucratic." Vladimir, English speaking, helps out. "no you don't need an agent (18 in town) you must go to the Harbour Master, then the Border Police and Customs (all close by). The Serbian "river permit" to go to Belgrade, costs 50 Euro; you must hand in your passport if you go to your anchored yacht and get it back to tour the town; you must pay the permit fee at a bank (special form required to deposit into a special account). To depart you must go again to the Border Police and Harbour Master and receive your permit, then you can leave - I know, it is terrible, it is the Serbian system."

"Why does Sahula need a river permit, isn't it an international waterway?" "Serbia owns the River off Serbia; it doesn't recognise the international waters - I know, I know..."

Skipper and Crew fill fuel containers at a local service station, buy food at the nearby supermarket and enjoy a meal and beer in the town square. A day marked as Sahula's "horriblus Danublius"

Crew's birthday (24) passes uneventfully - thankfully. Border Police officer, "You leave?, strong wind today." Officialdom has been helpful - "it is the system." Fleets of barges are anchored, awaiting improved weather. Sahula, released, sped before it.

Off Ram village (1075), Roman fort guarded the steep sided channel. At Smederevo (1115) once an ancient capital (1430), a large fortress, built as defence against the advancing Turks, confronts the River.

Anchorage is under the power lines (1145), Ashore the village, Donja Vinca's rubbish dump pollutes the River. A utilitarian anchorage to ensure an early arrival at Belgrade (1170).

Tanya drives Sahula to her first river capital.

Next Report: Belgrade, Nova Sad, Croatia, Hungary.

David

24th April, 2011

Report no.52 Danube: Ruse to Vidin

Passage Report No. 52

April, 2011

Danube: Ruse to Vidin, Bulgaria

Mehmet Pasha, Ottoman mayor, envisaged Ruse as the “Vienna of the East.” The imposing, elaborate, decorative, 18th century architecture of the private and public buildings (onion tops reflect a later Russian invasion), squares, parks, tree lined streets and boulevards, in which chic, modern citizens live and promenade, evidence the dream.

Not all, however, merging to suburbia, the dull, decaying, suburban apartment blocks, grey, cement rendered, red roofed, cottages, decaying factories, belie the apparent prosperity.

Once, a major Danube port and shipbuilding centre, Ruse, in decay, awaits economic resurgence. The cities importance made it the residence of twelve ambassadors before Sofia (strategically inland away from Danubian border) was slated as the political capital.

This is a region where the winds of war ensured fathers had many sons. Elder promenaders store comparatively recent memories of the violent, at times glorious, past.

Skipper and Crew admire also other assets: the female beauty, the Orthodox, St. Dimitar Basarbovski’s rock monastery (outside town), the Ruse Art Gallery.

Sahula is rests at the Ruse Yacht Club (18 Euros per night – hot/cold shower, washing machine, no potable water, nearby service station fuel).

Members provide knowledge of the River: Barges must anchor at night unless they have at least two watch keepers (12 hours), Barges are best approached (no VHF) in the River for going alongside (Company offices and some barges charge a fee). Bulgarian barges moored in Ruse refused Crew’s overtures (Ukrainian is best).

City satiated, Sahula motors into the wide, flow of the River, Vidin (Bulgaria) bound

A Danubian “Battle of the Bulge” confronts Sahula, Upstream, the River website reports a 24cm river rise. Waters boil and Buoys lean to the faster flow.

River traffic increases after Ruse, including low, flat, River cruise ships. Multi-national barges have their navigation cabins on hydraulics for upstream, cross river bridges. A car carrier barge moves fast past.

“500” “600” markers pass requiring Chart book No. 2. (Of 8)

The River narrows at the bland, industrial, Svistova, facilitating the Danube crossing of many invaders: Roman, Byzantines, Turks, Russians and WWII German armies.

Skippers sketches record the tree lined bank’s spring golden colours.

Sahula’s anchorages favour alongside mid river sandbanks to avoid sunken tree trunks ripped from the eroding river banks.

Barometer drop heralds dark, stormy skies.

A yellow cloud of industrial pollution (Romanian fertilizer factory) engulfs the opposite Bulgarian heritage (Roman Emperor Tarzan’s fortress and Crusader, Turk battlefield) of Nikapol village.

Sahula passes by Somovit, Oriachova, Baikal, - immobile ports, silent, grey, red roofed, riverside villages.

First yacht, Austrian, outboard powered, waves heading downhill.

Mid-stream, sandbank current laps Sahula’s hull (650, 3m), night traffic (light glaring, fast, passenger ship, barges, police launch) pass into inky blackness...

Skipper removes Sahula’s green flashing anchor light, leaving the LED white light...

Red sunrise, calm, neat, peaceful Bulgarian hillside villages - Dolni Varin, Vadin Varin.

Night anchored and passing barges wave. A five barge wide pusher barge heads downstream. Commerce in continium.

Morning River, eternal flows, synergizes river moods to life. River colours luminesce – gold, browns vibrant greens, mirrored in flowing placid calms and brown, green, river swirls. White smoke, a yellow school bus, animals grazing, cormorants diving, birds flock, flying low, ducks amongst the rooted river bank – a new Danubian day of a village, a boat, a river.

Villages hide behind a dyke, on top, citizens promenade

Sahula surfs before a morning southerly – wind against current, on a clear, warm, summer day. Crew isn’t yet in board shorts –

trust takes time – later, on the surf ski, swimming.

Gravel takes the anchor (728, 4m), well clear of the shipping channel. Skipper buoys the anchor to assist if sunken trees.

Ruby red dusk painted river, “Sundowners” – Bulgarian cheese and chardonnay - another day.

River sides are distinct; Romanian – a low, flat, plain with reafforested banks; low Bulgarian hills, river beaches, resist the River’s flow. Neat villages dot the hills.

Islands of old forest – tall, proud, chaotic, sustainable, compare to the disciplined precision of anti-river plantings.

“Mountains, mountains” – Crew, the mountaineer, exclaims sighting the snow covered peaks of the Bulgarian Balkan Range. Post Viden, the River enters the “Iron Gates” gorges.

“River Countess” a, low slung, “spic,” river passenger ship, passengers waving, draws speedily alongside. Captain Jordan (VHF) advises to “press on,” the Hungarian Danube sector is “drying up with 1.5 -1.8 m likely.” “Winter snow-melt has gone down; rain is not forecast.” Sahula draws 1.5-1.7m.

His ship draws 1.5 m is enroute to Basel, Switzerland. Also Viden bound, an invitation is extended to Sahula’s crew to lecture passengers on Skipper’s travels and exchange River information. It is readily accepted.

Crew, “seal like” slips into the cold Danube. A fishing line (from Ruse) is clicking against the hull from the propeller. It must be removed. Hyperventilating, Crew dives successfully.

Sahula is moored alongside an ancient barge, now a Viden harbour pontoon. The Border Police and Harbourmaster meet.

Fuel, water and supplies, a tourist walk and onto Hells Gate Gorge to Belgarde, Serbia.

Next Report No. 53: Dining on the Captains Table, onto Belgrade.

David

Sahula Report: 51 - Danube

Passage Report: No. 51

April, 2011

Silistra (364) to Ruse, Bulgaria (490)

Grey day Danube, wet and cold. Sahula early on the River. Crew sheltered behind the Doghouse. Visibility low.

Rust red sunken hulk; statue testimony to wrecked caution. Barges are slow and slower to turn.

Pancakes and maple syrup, enjoyed (2007 - Australian).

German chart book (8 volumes - German) used by Peter (UK -downhill, 2007) show maps with comments and amendments. Skipper adds current update.

Pollution - plastic, rubbish - is minimal. River water is clean, green. River banks have little accumulated rubbish. River beaches are pristine - testament to a flowing (2-3 km), flood prone, changing river.

Riverside habitation is an infrequent fisher's hut or "gypsy" van. The low river flood plain necessitates invisible villages being back on the hills.

Crew navigates Sahula through the changing channels. Channels split to passage port or starboard. Sahula keeps to charts. No CENVI markers to direct upstream vessel take starboard channel and downstream, port channel? Few marks exist where mid or outside passage is deep.

Romanian police boat slowed, waved, sounded siren and sped downstream into a bleak, cold, wet, day.

"Heinrich," skipper of a Ukrainian, upstream, pusher churning behind six low gunwaled, coal barges is "paid by the hour" (Crew); "on his honeymoon (Skipper).

Heinrich fronts another pusher barge, white light flashing for starboard too. Sahula, a "small vessel," required to keep out of the way, lines up behind till clear, then "speeds" (6 km/hour) past as "Heinrich's" churning "mammoth" slowly moves dusk bound.

Unused, wasting, rusting, silent memorials: cranes, sheds, ramps, wharves, to past ship building, past glories of Oltenita industry (Romania). Very few of the industrial buildings along the river seem to be in use. They stand in similar, decaying, silence.

Opposite, Toutrakan (Bulgaria -433 km), red roofed, grey, astride the hillside bank, looks relatively prosperous.

Sahula punches past into a rising river wind.

"448" - Sahula's anchored hull resonated with the lapping current and wind waves. Skipper wished the silt dug anchor well.

Danube, some 2 km bank to bank, provides wind river waves. A short day - 40 km to Ruse, Bulgaria for fuel and supplies.

Twice Sahula has imprinted the Danube's silted bottom (1.6m) testing navigation skills between non-existent markers, using current to back off.

Skipper sketches the river expanse (449-450) beautiful in its natural river green, low, banks.

Black, swirling, north clouds threaten a storm. Sahula makes for Ruse Yacht Club, located in Ruse harbour. "Friendship Bridge" towers above - the only road link across the Danube between Romania and Bulgaria.

Sahula cuts a fisherman's line on entry. He demands (Crew pays for peace) five Euro damages. The line is recovered from the propeller.

On VHF 16, "Sprechen die Deuche" - broken English permits Sahula to enter.

"Welcome to Bulgaria" - local yachtsmen assist Sahula to berth to a small floating metal wharf. Sahula dwarfs local day yachts.

Boyko, club manager, offers the Club facilities (hot shower, laundry, toilet, fuel (service station), water, mast removal or raising etc) and assistance in clearing entry procedures. Harbour Master provides the "Transit Log for Bulgarian Ports," stamped (no cost) also by Port Police and Customs. (located nearby - 30 minutes).

Ruse's Danube frontage - grey, industry, wharves, apartments - belies the rich heritage behind of a prosperous, vibrant, town. The tree lined streets of old houses, squares of impressive, heritage, public buildings and statues, shopping pedestrian boulevard of lively, modern shops, chic cafes and clubs. Modern, prosperous, Ruse directly contrasts with Romania's decaying, Constanta.

Sahula stays to obtain fuel, supplies and explore.

Next Report No. 52: Ruse to Hells Gate.

David

Sahula Report 50: Constanta Canal

Passage Report: No 50

April, 2011

Canal to the Danube

Dawn red, lines off, Sahula departs Port Tomis Marina for the Constanta – Danube Canal.

Polizia Frontiere is ever vigilant. After passing through Port Constanta and tied up at the entrance to the Canal, the Police are aboard. “Why did you leave without telling immigration?” “We did by radio and voice to the Police Boat; and we are not leaving Romania. We like Romania!” “Sorry, it is procedure, you understand” – Skipper did (principle: never argue, just do, always compliment!).

Skipper attended the Canal Adminstration HQ (fee: 124 euro).

“Not so much traffic this year or last.”

“You must go; port side, into the lock.” Sahula entered the concrete canyon, the floating bollards lifted as it filled, the gate sank, exit. A barge moved in. The locks do not operate for small vessels unless a barge requires entry.

“You cannot leave till tomorrow, gypsies a problem in harbours before Danube.”

Sahula cannot berth were assigned, it will damage the boat (a north wind drives canal sea). Alongside a concrete wall – “Captain, not safe there, gypsies.”

Sahula sleeps, dawn start (gypsy free), to Cernavoda locks.

Into the Canal of Death (some 100,000 perished), a dramatic huge sculpture and mosaic of contented workers, celebrates their effort.

Low, laden barges pass, slowly, to Constanta.

Ducks dive in the reeds, fishermen wave, factories, farms, stoaic grey villages, horse carts, net fishermen rowing long narrow boats. Life ticks by.

It’s the lock - Cernavoda” “It can’t be” - Tanya (engine) has done well.

VHF battery flat. Dockmaster waves a blue flag. Sahula enters the lock, a barge enters, water drops. Spirited Sahula enters the “blue” Danube (300); a green, clear, flowing river.

Tingles of excitement. Sahula has made it - 2400 km to farewell - through seven countries. Many more to Baltic or Mediterranean seawater. An odyssey begins.

The River’s broad expanse covers the navigable channel. Sahula wends between the widely spaced, red, green, channel buoys (from sea to land), observing the shore direction markers (from land to sea), paralleling the barges. Kilometre signs click by. The European Waterway Regulations (CENVI) set the River/ canal signage and rules. Buoys, markers, in good condition, are frequent.

Sahula uses digital, Danube Commission, charts (2010 - in German), Heikell and Allardice (Guides,1991, 2007).

Barges, fully loaded, gunwales awash, plough “downhill,” the shallow river silt. Depths are various and shallow (3-7m). Deeper along corners and steep sides.

Rasnova’s grey village merges into the winter grey, brown bank. Sahula anchors off a designated shore at “316.” Hot soup, chicken, vegetables, music, celebratory beer - Crew cooks gourmet. Fishermen wave, row by trailing a hopeful net. Dusk, heater on, sleep.

Dawn start, Day two. Breakfast on the go (hot pancakes, jam, tahine, lemon juice). Calm, cool, Tanya at 1500 revs. Sahula enters the faster current, narrowed, between Ceaciru and Tin islands.

Tarantula rooted trees cling to low, silted, strated banks. White cormorant speckled tree tops, ducks, formation flocked, glide low. Nature; ancient, habitual.

Sun rises - “It’s warm, a two jumper day.”

Averaging 200-300 m. wide in narrows, to half a kilometre, River flow varies between 2-3 knots.

The Danube Commission detailed charts are confirmed by the Romania’s clear markers. Heikell charts are useful, general. Barges confirm both.

Log (speedometer) paddle jams - again. GPS takes over.

Fishermen wave, nets reel in fish.

A conundrum: green buoy on south Talachi Island channel is high and dry, a huge six barge pusher enters the north. Follow the charts or the barge? Sahula tracks north (3.4 m). Danube is an ever changing feast.

Pelicans rest on a sand spit. Bird life is prolific.

To pass or not to pass? Tanya pushes Sahula by a huge pusher barge. Crew wave.

The Bulgarian - Romanian land border joins the Danube at city, Silistra. Allardice(2007) reports the Harbour master refused to recognise the Danube International Convention and a court case cost them 1000 Euro and 4 days. Sahula passes the massed grey apartments, suburban sprawl and modern city centre to later enter Bulgaria at city, Ruse.

How to get rid of a floating navigation obstacle; a Bulgarian tree stump? Tow it to the river centre - the median line of their international border. Leave it to fate, a Romanian boat dragging it to their side or a collision. International law and comity makes for odd outcomes.

A Danube storm rolls thunder and rain upon Sahula. Visibility drops, Sahula must anchor. A sandbar at “385”, provides an off channel stopover (4 m). Sahula’s destination is 70 kilometres closer.

Anchoring must be out of the shipping channel, have minimal current and risk of snagging sunken trees.

Crew, inspired by local fishermen, drops an optimistic, corn baited line. Results: dinner is tinned fish and vegetables.

Next Report 51: Ever onward on the Danube.

David

Sahula Report 49: Bucharest

Passage Report: 49

Rogues, Constanta, Bucharest - Romania

There is always despite the best efforts to the contrary. Something not done when time is running out after two days preparing for lowering the mast. The crane, on time, and was coming down the wharf when the reluctant split pins had to be removed from the rigging turnbuckles. A rush effort, the driver sat in his crane cabin, gesticulating in lieu of English. He could see the sailors needed his expertise to suspend, by a seemingly small rope the precariously dangling mast. It was laid along the wharf to reposition the lift points, then picked up and placed on deck. The driver counted his 75 Euro.

It was done, much relief. Final commitment to the Danube.

Skipper preferred not to think about putting it all up again and reconnecting the mast electrics.

Mainsail rolled round the boom, wind generator pole, spinnaker pole, furled headsails, all laid along the mast. Sahula looked like a canal bound yacht.

Romanian rogues are constant in Constanta. Skipper and Crew walked to the local supermarket, Kautland (3km). A fellow queried where we were from, then reappeared a second time, two plainclothes “police” came up, alleging drug dealing and asking to view passports and money. A 100 Euro was taken and they melted into the background. Skipper and Crew for the second time in two days were hassled by “police” about drug dealing. A criminal gang (“gypsies” – a problem:”sympathetic Romanian) working on unsuspecting tourists. Crew considered calling the Police. Skipper offered caution. Skipper and Crew, angry, shaken, nerves tingling, thinking all were criminals, sought a calming café, bought supplies and returned to Sahula’s sanctuary. The Aegean or leaving Romania was on the agenda. A traveller’s lesson learnt. Sahula in Europe’s wild frontier.

The mind is a precarious thing. Bucharest, “Paris of the East,” a salve. Constanta bus (3 hours) approached across flat, rolling vivid green, black soil plains, huge, tractored farms. Pise villages, dirt poverty, horse drawn carts, shepherds, bowed “fire wood” women. Romania in rural transition.

Massed, bland, “communist” apartment blocks, merged into inner city, ancient and modern edifices of the elite. Nothing celebratory stands to Nicholae Ceausescu’s 43 years of family autocracy except the small balcony on the huge bland HQ Central Committee of the Communist Party where, in 1989, his last exhortation to the angry masses left a memorial to the martyrs of theirs and his bloody end. A historical, poignant, “black hole.”

Revolution Square celebrates other elites: A Royal Palace (housing a superb national art collection), baroque national concert centre, university and emotive statues to leaders, artists, writers. The Palace of Parliament (sized second to Washington’s Pentagon) commands a city central park; memorial to the Communist eras bloated bureaucracy.

Restaurants, high end shops, tourist and Romanian chic, mix with streets of old terraces and small “palaces” testament to glories past and evolving. Fountains, colourful gardens, spring blooms, budded white, purple, yellow, trees, bring a wintered population to play and promenade in large city parks

A welcome relief to drab, dreary, Constanta. Crew: “I’m glad we made this trip.”

The Danube passed below, slowly moving to sea. The Agency for the Exploration and Maintenance of the Danube (EAMDR) (located in Ruse, Bulgaria) - www.appd-bg.org - confirmed the sighting. It also gave whole river heights, navigation hazards, channel changes, storms, notices and latest channel charts. Sahula has a CD of charts on two computers (2009-10) and eight volumes (in German) of Danube charts and information, a Rod Heikell, Danube Guide (1991), Romania/ Bulgarian Cruising Guide (N Allardice) (2007).

Information for an impossible task: predicting the channel and conditions, in a moving river. The way forward is a challenge; challenge is the adventurer’s raison de etre.

Next Report No. 50: Challenging Constanta – Danube Canal

David

Rpt 48 Bosphorus to Constanta, Romania

Passage Report No. 48

Bosphorus, Black Sea to Romania

Poseidon Weather indicates 2100 window. Weather chart shows rapidly changing Black Sea weather. Standard wind is North East. Sahula would luxuriate in a Southerly or motor sail in light Northerly. The former is late in the week. 1500, Skipper checks sea conditions – light northerly, calm with swell. Predicted late week southerly is too unsure in unstable weather conditions. Sahula is prepared to depart Pograz.

Sahula, double reefed, motors into the busy Bosphorus shipping channel, rising to the swell and northerly sea. Along the European coast - out of the Bosphorus – Black Sea ports shipping lanes, then sets course to Constanta, Romania.

Crews first night at sea. Olive a small grey, white and black bird alights as hitchhiker.

South setting current (0.7 to 1 knot) checks progress. Clear of coast, radar reveals few ships. Cold, dark night, Sahula butts a moderate North Easterly. North Westerly is a hoped for.

Olive returns, alights and flies on.

Crossing the bight Sahula abrogates finding an inshore counter current. Inshore shipping lanes linking Bulgarian ports render offshore safer (shipping and lee shore less) but slower.

Radar reveals few ships. 2 hours on, 2 hours off is dictated by the cold, black horizon. Sea is confused, rising then dropping, later calmer. Tanya (engine) drives Sahula onward.

Crew pales – overside, but happier. Sahula’s ETA is Wednesday morning.

Olive returns with friend. Friendly, unafraid, they explore and depart.

Dolphins, small, two tone grey (Marmara sea dolphins, large, black) play in bow wave. Crew photographs sea life freedom.

Precooked dinner stew. Hot food excels.

Massed Port Constanta cranes, anchored shipping offshore – Sahula awaits dawn to enter Port Tomis Marina. Sahula is tied alongside the concrete wharf. Two cars pull up, uniformed Border Police ask for papers. Pleasantly, efficiently – half an hour – clearance is done (Ships Registration, Passport, Crew list – no cost.). Crew compares Istanbul departure process.

Crew (recovered) makes tomato omelette. “That was the best sleep of my life” Sahula is silent till afternoon.

Port Tomis Marina is new and incomplete. There are few yachts – one Hanse 54 amongst small tired sisters. A marina in expectation. Staff are efficient, and helpful. Berths are off two pontoons. Hot showers, no laundry, wifi.

Marina: 18.23 Euros per day including VAT (24%), water and electricity.

Diesel: Not available at Marina. Fuel wharf in construction. Taxi to service station (5 km)

Food: Markets close to Marina. Kautland Supermarket 5 km by Taxi.

Mast down: local crane (75 Euro).

Constanta – Danube Canal: 124 Euro. Pilot required if over 15 m yacht.

.

Skipper and Crew walk to Constanta town on the headland above the marina.

A scene of quiet, dreary decay. It is an old and ancient city that has seen better times. Old classical architecture buildings mixed with large churches and mosque, evidence an elitist, wealthy, prosperous pre-communist, multicultural, past. “Victoria” standing in heavy communist bronze, revered by striving workers and militia, dominates the city park.

A large, solid mosque stands silent. The Turkish Ottoman Empire ruled 500 years over Eastern Europe.

Skipper and Crew go down a back street of old buildings.

“You like girls, hashish” – “Police, he is mafia, you have drugs – passport, money, please” – two plain clothes police assault the dealer – rough body, pack search. The other side of Romanian life. Lesson learnt – keep to busy, public streets. This is not Turkey. Skipper and Crew, released and relieved, join citizens along the sea shore promenade.

A casino, in rococco, classic style, stands grey, vacant, proud and silent overlooking the huge Constanta harbour. Its successor, a nearby modern high rise hotel, signed “Casino” is surrounded by the new wealthy, elites large European cars.

Down the street, a large Orthodox church, busy with black hat, robed priests and veiled women, emits an ancient service.

Skipper and Crew enjoy a local beer and pizza.

“This city is Christian, Orthodox, Jewish, Muslim – I am Romanian, my family is all of these:” waiter and university student – “I could leave, but I am proud of my country.” “Communists are still in politics but less so in the present government.”

Next Report 49: Mast down – Constanta – Danube Canal to Danube

David.

Sahula Report 47: Istanbul to Bosphorus

Sahula Report No: 47

Istanbul to Bosphorus

Crew (Nathan) arrives in board shorts, worn shoes and rucksack – a young Australian travelling light. He bears “gifts,” Skipper’s new camcorder adds to the photographic arsenal – Crew has a new digital SLR camera.

Crew (mountaineer, rockclimber, traveller) has taken three months from his finance management job at the Australian National University to join Sahula. “a trip of a lifetime.”

Black Sea weather (Poseidon weather) proves variable. Sahula will await another window at the end of the Bosphorus.

It is time to go. Predicting a Black Sea weather window requires being at the Black Sea entrance to the Bosphorus.

First, exiting requires salving friendly bureaucrats (Transit Log, Ship Registration, Passport). Four visits: Chamber of Shipping (issues and registers Transit Log), Harbour Master (Metro to Finikli near Kabatas – offices opposite each other). Chamber charges 30 TL – the only cost of the exit process); Port Police (Zeypor – commercial shipping harbour – taxi from Zeytinburu train station) and Customs (Atakoy Marina). Time taken: 5-6 hours including basic transport; 2-3 hours using a taxi.

Crew comments on a lesson in bureaucracy.

Next day, depart Yesilkoy – food, supplies aboard. Fuel, water at Atakoy Marina, and into the Bosphorus.

Seemingly a “million” ships at anchor off port; dolphins play “welcome” off the massive Blue and Ay Sofia mosques and Sultan’s huge Topkapi Palace – the heart of 500 years of the Ottoman empire. It is a moving, intensely historical place. Sahula will remain within the ancient empire till Vienna (twice sieged unsuccessfully, by Ottoman armies). Sahula entered the empires boundaries in Sudan.

Mingling with a mass of ferries and cruise boats, Sahula motors across the Golden Horn entrance, along the European shore (designated yacht “lane”). Magnificent Dolmabahce Palace – a Sultan’s legacy and Ataturk’s last home.

Volkan phones to wave from his university located on the shore.

Past lesser palaces and stately heritage wooden homes.

Sahula breasts a strong current (3-5 knots) evident in a boiling, swirling, Bosphorus. It seems the mighty Danube is reaching out.

Under the towering suspension bridge, traffic jammed – farewell Istanbul –city of history and mystique.

Past various bays full of ferries and pleasure craft, Sahula traverses the Bosphorus twenty kilometres. Cloud, fog like rain descends, visibility is poor, shipping horns raise tension, radar on, Sahula slowly wends north out of the shipping lanes to Poyaz, fishing port on Anatolian (Asian) side.

Sahula is berthed alongside with large fishing boats in winter recess (20 TL – three nights). A misty rain - lighthouse fog horn mournfully signals danger ashore.

“It is for young people.” A blank door signals an internet “café” – noisy, only boys – provided by the village. A Monday Black Sea weather window raises hopes.

Sahula awaits the weather window. Frequent checks on “Poseidon Weather” weekend storms and Monday an opportunity. It changes from departure early morning to evening. Evening darkness, fog and ships makes for a challenging crossing. Radar will be Sahula’s best friend.

Skipper and Crew prepare Sahula. Lee clothes on, all tied down securely. Dinner cooked for two nights. Genuflexion to the weather gods.

Next Report: Black Sea crossing to Romania.

David

************

Sahula Report 46: Sigacik to Istanbul

Sahula Report: No. 46

Sigacik to Istanbul

March, 2011

Sigacik, Sapedere to Bademli. The later has hot springs along the shore. Tantalising prospect but Sahula is late and Skipper, cold. Germain (the heater) a good friend.

Bademli to Bozcaada Island is 12 hours. The tillerpilot to Aries vane connection fails. Skipper steers full time. A light southerly assists. Arrival is on dusk at Bozcaada fishing village harbour. Skipper sounds the horn, shouts ashore and willing hands emerge. Tied to their steel mammoth, tied to others and them to shore, Skipper enjoys with Ali and his arab crew, fish and Bozcaada fabled, red wine. A castle on the harbour dominates the village vista.

Much shouting, a boat wishes to go to sea, the fishing boat “sandwich” must disengage. It is pandemonium; Sahula the outside “slice” must release and come back. Settled back, more shouting, a repeat. Skipper wonders about sleep. Sahula losses some red paint to mammoth.

Early start; today the fabled Dardenelles, access to Istanbul and the Black Sea – Russia and the Caucaus, Gallipoli and conflictual centuries.

The current is reported to extend to Bozcaada. The impact of the Danube starts here as a major contributor to the Black Sea.

Commercial shipping is anchored off Bozcaada. Skipper wonders why? Past the entrance watch tower and the many memorials to tragic Gallipoli and the folly of war. A sad place where Australians fought Turks for no better reason than British colonialisation. Where a huge Turkey flag flies dominately signalling the victory of iconic Ataturk and the Turkish Republic. Much shipping comes north south, oddly none is going opposite! Sahula is alone.

Sahula sails before a strong southerly, closely following the Anatolian shore to avoid the commercial ship lanes.

Off Kepez, the straits narrow and water boils with current (estimate 3-4 knots).

Yilmaz calls and notes that tomorrow is Turkey’s Victory Day.

Off Canakkale, many Turk warships and Coast Guard cutters are at anchor and manoeuvring. A Coast Guard cutter comes speedily alongside Sahula; a gold resplendent officer in Turkish issues an order. Skipper calls on Channel 16 for an explanation and is told there is a “ceremony” and to please go to the “port side” and continue there. Skipper alters course after ensuring the direction is against the shipping lane.

Skipper wonders at the irony of an Australian yacht, come in

“under the radar,” in the midst of the massing Turkish naval fleet (some 10 vessels) on Victory Day.

The cutter again speeds alongside “Please ignore the shipping lane, go as close to shore as possible and proceed.” Sahula needs no persuading.

It is now clear that the “ceremony” has closed the Dardenelles. Later, when “ceremony” over, a long line of mammoths speeds south.

Skipper anchors at Cardak, opposite Galibolu (Gallipoli) in a rising north easterly gale. At dusk on the second day, the motion changes, Sahula is adrift in a 30 knot gale. The anchor is raised and reset closer to shore. It again drags and the anchor winch jams. Sahula is drifting to a shallow shore. The anchor is again let out while a second anchor is prepared. The winch restarts, the anchor is secured and Sahula tracks to Gelibolu on the opposite shore. The strait is a 30 knot cauldron not noticed by huge commercial ships that Sahula, enveloped in plunging spray, must avoid. Cold, wet and exhausted Sahula anchors close to shore, immediately south of the ferry terminal harbour. It is calm and secure. Hot soup, hot meal and sleep.

Skipper ventures ashore for supplies. Gelibolu was home to “…Piri Reis, the 16th century Ottoman map-maker and pilot.” His charts of the Mediterranean, Africa and America are noted for their detail. Recent press studies claim he was aboard as “Rodrigo,” assistant to Columbus on his voyage to America (Daily News). Gelibolu castle houses a museum to his achievements.

Skipper, ashore surveys the port. It is clear the busy ferry harbour is not viable for yachts. The small fishing boat harbour entrance is one yacht wide and berthing inside extremely tight. Anchoring is a better alternative. The anchorage is secure in north easterlies but disturbed in strong winds.

Wind Guru (German) Poseidon Weather (Greek) forecast strong north easterlies till Wednesday. Skipper enjoys a break: painting, sleeping, reading.

Wednesday, dawns clear and the anchorage, calm. Sahula heads out - into 18-20 knot north easterlies. Cold and windy, Skipper opts to anchor at Kemer, three hours “bashing” distant. Kemer offers respite. The village is behind a headland, well protected and secure from the north east. Sahula anchors in the bay, close to shore, immediately outside the fishing harbour. Hot soup, hot meal and sleep.

Along the coast (one kilometre) a large power station is being constructed, including a long breakwater providing an alternative but less attractive anchorage.

Up early and away to Pasalimani Island and harbour. “Watch out for entrance rocks” say Turk friend. Entrance is buoyed and deep. GPS is accurate. Anchor off a seemingly deserted village close to shore. Turkey in winter is home to a million unoccupied “holiday” houses that silently, degrade the landscape.

0430 weigh anchor, radar and GPS till dawn into the Marmara Sea, destination Istanbul. Calm waters, Audrey (autohelm tillor pilot) works well. Breakfast; alert for shipping in their lanes to port. Dolphins play and the 20 million peoples, city plastic pollution floats past.

Skipper dreams of a hot bath, soup and warm cabin. Istanbul berths can break the bank. Skipper is grateful to Istanbul friends for the 200 TL per week, harbour at Yesilkoy. Sahula meanders in, a fisherman in his rowboat, waves his arms. He has been phoned by friend Vulkan to assist. Anchor aweigh; Skipper is denied the luxuries but gains a secure anchorage. Yesilkoy is a wealthy bayside suburb.

Skipper stays in Volkan and Hulya’s apartment till Crew arrives. Time out, hot bath and home cooked food. Life is good and company superb.

Time well spent finding parts in Istanbul (near Golden Horn bridge) unique “find everything” market.

A southerly wind persists, ideal conditions to cross the Black Sea. It is not to be, Crew (Nathan) arrives on Monday, time to leave is put forward, the weather changes. Time to enjoy Istanbul and friends.

Next Report: Istanbul and Bosphorus.

David.

Sahula Report 45: Karacasogut to Bodrum

Report No. 45

Karacasogut to Bodrum

March 2011

Farewell, Karacasogut and friends. Sahula must away, the Danube calls. Metin, crew joins Sahula to Yat Lift boatyard, Bodrum. 30 knots rain squalls render the Yankee headsail to strips.

It has seen good service over 10 years. A new sail is ordered from Yelkenbicer Sails, Izmir (1400 Euros - UK Sails: 2100 Euros).

It rains - rains, hail, thunder and lightening - southerly storms. The "interior list ensures work carries on. New 240 volt external plug, circuit breakers and plugs. New Victron battery charger is installed but returned to manufacturer, New fuel tank installed for Kaelsa diesel heater - heater fails to work - again (awaits Izmir agent). New SW engine valve, new waste tank - the expense builds, knowing work in Turkey is less expensive that Europe.

New equipment aboard unsettles the routine. Invariably, a reaction of problems (challenges!) follows installation.

Dealing with Turk businesses is potentially fraught with frustration. The root cause is communication. Many Turks speak limited English but refuse to acknowledge the limits. A "yes" may mean "no" or "not understood" - conversations seemingly understood, result in little, no or the opposite action. "Inshallah" (now, today or tomorrow) pervades - doing seems to be at workers behest, not client. Emails confidently sent, have little or no effect.

It is critical to speak through a well versed English speaker and to follow up. The heater "expert" in Marmaris, failed to turn up four times. Finally, he was found to be at the Istanbul Boat Show having given an undertaking to work aboard - or seemed to! Skipper was told "it is important to his business."

Yat Lift staff (two ladies speak excellent English) and workshop makes for a pleasant stay. The yard is part of the huge shipyards (70-100 foot "gulets") and building village of Icelmer, a short dolmus ride to Bodrum. Combined with the Bodrum Sanayi (light industrial area), everything can be bought or made.

Sahula's bottom is antifouled; the feathering propeller greased and the lift in crane breaks down. Good can come of bad. Skipper notes the Aries windvane has a critical loose part. It is fixed with the help of an English sailor, Kevin, and she is returned to the sea. A new valve leaks and is fixed on the spot - Sahula doesn't want to leave?

Skipper rigs the never used "genoa." A small, acutely cut "yankee" unfurls in its places - the "genoa" is an illusion! Skipper is mystified - sure that a genoa was aboard. The new heavy cloth, yankee, staysail and main remain the working sails. Mollie, the MPS (multipurpose sail or spinnaker) fills in light weather.

Friend Yilmaz says "no need to rush", Dogan cautions "The Aegean can be dangerous." The Poseidon Weather website predicts a weekend "window." Time marches on, Sahula has to be in Istanbul to collect crew on the 28th March. Time is the anathema of cruising. The hoped for, two day, relaxing, art painting, at anchor will have to wait.

Sunny, cool spring day, building winds ((16-24 knots), Sahula motor sails to Bodrum Marine fuel station (4 TL ($2 AUD) per litre ensures Skipper pays for Arab cries for freedom!) and onto Cumulus - a picturesque, ancient harbour and village. At anchor, she awaits calmer weather.

It is a strange feeling again riding Sahula, besting the wind and sea. Always after a long time ashore or tied to, there is apprehension in setting off again. "Setting off again" is a recommitment to the unknown of boat, weather and adventure.

Skipper, out of the elements behind the doghouse and plastic protectors, rugs up to enjoy the sail. Many yachts have no cockpit protection, which may explain why Sahula is alone sailing north, in the sunny, cool (cold!) of spring.

The Danube odyssey begins. Sahula makes for Sigacik, Tanya (engine) pushes to get there. A northerly change threatens. An anchorage at Tekagac inlet and through the Samos Strait to confront the Northerly to Sigacik.

It is Sunday. "Welcome back to Teos, Sahula." Friends tie up. On the wharf is Ozkan, Suzie, Cuneyd and Savas - going to Kayitzis III for chai. Skipper soon is there. It is good to be here.

A hot shower - "We owe you one - from when you used the workers shower (often cold!) and toilet" Kindly, Teos is free. Sahula is the "foundation" yacht of Teos Marina. Staff and Cuneyd are good and welcoming friends. In the village as well, friends (shopkeeper, restaurant and bakery) give a "welcome back." Skipper feels part of a community.

"It is a shipyard" - Cuneyd and Savas are modelling yachts and boats. A large model of Kayitzis III is underway. Skipper donates Sahula's hull line drawings. A model may be made in a year or so.

Skipper sees Seferishisar dentist, Koray. Ozkan assists in providing Sahula's list. Skipper goes to Seferihisar and Izmir for listed items. Battery charger is installed. The new Yankee is set and delivered - looks excellent. Sahula now has all "new" sails as from Townsville.

Yilmaz assists as well ("you are part of the family") and Skipper visits the Konak and Kameralti bazaar. A boat list and crew list is copied under advice for Danube officialdom. The impossible is possible with such friends.

The heater is first fixed then broke down again. It is an impossible task. Skipper faced with having to leave and no time to test, adds a German heater and sends the Turkish original back to Ankara HQ. Ankara refused to repay. Instead they send another new heater - to Istanbul.

Superb two days at Yagcilar at Sema and Serhat's mountain retreat. "You are part of the family."

Sahula must leave. Farewell good friends - Sigacik, Izmir, Yagcilar and Urla - thank you! Skipper leaves with sadness, fulfilled with superb memories. "I shall return" - Sahula must sail on but Skipper will be back.

A farewell on the quay, lines let go - Sahula motors out to sea. A thrill whistle, signals waving worker friends - a last farewell. Istanbul beckons.

Next Report: Sigacik to Istanbul.

David.

Sahula Report 44: Friends Aboard

Passage Report No. 44

Friends aboard

Year two in Turkey, time to enjoy visiting friends and family. It is easy to do; Istanbul as the hub, inexpensive flights connect to all major towns.

Neil (Townsville) arrived in Bodrum for two weeks. Sahula cruised south to ancient Knidos to Simi Island (Greece).

Dogan (Turkish) and son cruised the first ever, to "Sea Change" bay. The son was refused entry to a large resort because he wasn't Italian! Sovereignty is cheap in Turkey.

Ben and Diane (Sydney) cruised up Gokova Korfezi (gulf) to Cleopatra's Island. Cleopatra "stricken" with love of Mark Anthony, ordered Egyptian sand for the island beach. Experts contend it is not local sand! A sign warns, "no collecting sand" or sitting on the hallowed beach; police stand guard!

On the opposite island, Ben and Skipper find in the undergrowth a rock carved "bath." "Cleopatra in milk and honey, passed this way!" The bath was a single.

Di, a Sydney artist, gave Skipper art lessons in sketching and watercolour.

Sahula departed Turkey for Kos in Greece. Annalise and Nichola flew in for two weeks cruising Greece to Naxos and three travelling inland Turkey.

Sahula remained in Bozburun for the inland sector. A three day trek from the OzSafak Pension in Cukabag into Seven Lakes cirque deep in the Aladaglar mountains, was a highlight. Cappadocia's underground cities, Goreme's cave hostel and hot air balloons, Gallipoli, Turk hospitality in Izmir, Sigacik and Istanbul provided a holiday to remember.

Skipper enjoyed travelling with two attractive ladies. "Goodbye, give me a kiss" risked a waiter. Nic when leaving, turned and blew a kiss; the fellow nearly fell over.

Skipper returned via Ankara. A Turkish made diesel blow heater needed to be assessed for purchase. Ataturk's mausoleum, the old city and art galleries made it a worth while detour. Ankara, with its government buildings, thronging crowds on wide tree lined boulevards IS the modern Turkey.

Sahula wended to Karcasogut (Sogut), her winter home. A half hour dolmus (bus) to Marmaris, Sogut is a small rural town. No tourists visit there. Sahula is berthed to the Sahil Restaurant wharf. At 700 euros for winter ( some 2000 euros in Marmaris marinas), ringed by protective mountains and islands, it is strikingly beautiful. Almost ideal. Musketelle (Peter and Barbara) fly home to NZ. Wifi, their cat, takes up residence on Sahula.

Skipper leaves Sahula for England and Xmas with sister, Anne and family. It snows as soon as the "rubber hits the tarmac"- Skipper "enjoys" the "coldest winter for 100 years." Time in London, visiting art galleries, shows and museums and the London Boat Show.

On return to Sogut, it is sunny and crisp. Sahula waits patiently. The "to do" list grows longer each day. Skipper must prepare Sahula for the Danube voyage.

Next blog: Karacasogut to Sigacik.

David Haigh

Sv Sahula