Passage Report No. 94

Gota Canal - Mem to Soderkoping

Anchored off, Skipper rows into Mem, the small, narrrow, entry harbour for the Gota Canal.

A SW'ly pins Sahula to the harbour wall. Locals, tourists sunbake alongside.

Skipper observes lock processes. Locks are "manned" by helpful students. Bow and stern lines to top steel rings through blocs aboard to cockpit winches. Tension is maintained whether up or down locks.

Sahula is ready, months of planning, fees (7010 SEK - Gota Canal; 880 SEK - Trollhatte Canal, all inclusive: facilities, laundry, electricity over 5 nights in 21 "canal" marinas) paid, but...an email...crew claims a funds issue.

"...I can only afford the Gota Canal... a week...I have house expenses, rates, renovations..." Sahula faces extra costs and a skipper being solo to Gothenburg.

Swede sailors offer to crew, three locks, Mem to Soderkoping. Skipper, grateful, determines to continue.

Crew may board there. A crew stepping aboard, is a "crew!"

"Diana," passenger boat (Stockholm to Lake Vanern) enters, inches forward, "inches" from the lock gate.

"...maybe she was built in a lock..

Conceived in the 16th century, as a way of avoiding Danish taxes on ships passing Copenhagen, the Gota Canal was constructed between 1810-32, dug (87 km) by 58,000 Swede soldiers (some Russian war prisoners, who opted to remain), the 190 km's slices through scenic, southern Sweden from Mem to Lake Vanern (Sweden's largest lake), rising to 91 m, in 58 locks, channels and lakes, requirng 6-7 transit days.

Mem marina (full facilities) is after the first lock. Fuel is at the outer harbour wall.

Locks are small and turbulent (on rising).

"...they are old..." The oldest, in use, is 1914.

Sahula enters behind (less turbulence) a mahogany yacht, rises, exits into a green, peaceful canyon, 3m depth (middle) - yachts pass.

"...you are here at a good time, holidays are nearly over..." (first week August)

Two locks and Sahula moors to Soderkoping (" - chirping!") quay, crowded with summers day tourists.

"... you are from Australia... I have been to Townsville...so far..."

"...Soderkoping is famous for icecream...a pink building, 200m..." A long queue "...they queue for hours..."

Skipper's insatiable icecream obsession is well satisfied elsewhere.

Tourists dance the night away.

In the evening cool, fading light, a walk in the forest.

Founded in the 11th century, Soderkoping, by the 12th century, was one of Swedens most important, harbour, Hansa, trading, towns (Stockholm, Kalmar, Visby).

Olaf Lilja's superb tenor (with piano, organ) resonates in the perfect accoustics of the 12th century arches of St Laurentii Kyrka - Soderkoping's oldest church and bell tower.

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Ancient, pastel, wooden houses leaning over narrow cobbled streets surround the church. Vibrantly coloured flowers adorn garden pots and plots

Yachts come and go in an everlasting tide through the canal.

"Orplid" is here. A french motor yacht (Paris), she and Sahula met in northern Norway, summer 2012. "Sundowners," - German wine - gathered many tales.

Lars, a local doctor, offers to drive Skipper to Noorkoping to meet crew arriving by train from Stockholm and return.

Next Report: Soderkoping to Lake Vanern

Best

David

7/8/13

Passage Report No. 93 Mariehamn, Aland to Sweden

Passage Report No.93

Mariehamn, Aland, Finland to Sweden

"...my boys (4, 6) saw you come in...they want to meet you..."

A delightful family boards Sahula, two boys, wide eyed, explore.

"...We have been to NZ and Australia..." Many Finns have - remoteness enjoins curiousity.

"...the boys (after) asked to learn English...we bought them a book...they want to go to Australia..."

Shrieking rigging - a symphony of a "1000" masts - "trapped" by a 30 knot NW'ly.

"...I reserved 1800...someone has taken "my" (washing) machine..." - tempers flail, facilities taxed - endemic marina madness.

Flag poles "flying" - England, Germany, Norway, Sweden, Poland, Estonia - no Australia!

"... he's travelled 5 years...(embarrassed harbour mistress) ... we have no Australian flag... we have never needed one..."

Walking the marina, Skipper notices that many yachts have no bow anchor or winch. They "anchor," bow line, to shore rocks, with a small stern anchor. The anchor (a small "bruce") is attached to a tape "rope" rolled onto a wire "cyclinder."

"... do you notice any difference between Swedish and Finland islands...?"

"...no..." - registers disappointment - each national islands are a national icon.

Inshore islands are forested over algae, peat covered rock; outer "skargard" is more windswept, bare. All have natures beauty.

Summer, maroon red, cottages inhabit most bays.

"Natural harbours" are identified in a Guide - crowded by the informed.

Scandinavian sailors generally prefer to congregate, either lined, bow to, across a rock face or in small island marinas or club bouys, enjoying BBQ's ashore, children playing.

 

Approaching a rock face they drop the tape line, stern anchor and slowly put bow lines ashore to steel rings (drilled into rock).

Sahala prefers to anchor off.

Sweden marinas have no sauna. They are a Finn phenomenon.

Archepelago astern, Crew standing on foredeck "...it is a privilege to sail into Stockholm..."

 

Wasahammen marina (300 SEK) welcomes Sahula.

Crew invites Skipper to a superb, restaurant dinner - departs "...I look forward to...my revenge with guitar lessons...all have been an experience of a lifetime...see you down under..."

Skipper visits Prins Eugens ("...the painter prince who favoured art over other royal pleasures..." (Lonely Planet: 64) Waldemarsudde - harbourside palace now art gallery - superb, inspiring, collection.

 

 

Two fresh, warm, rolls are left on deck. Dane crew, next boat, are baking. "...you are spoiling him..."

"...the Australian princess is very popular..."

At 0800 , they march, bags, towels shouldered - to the facilities - three showers, a full marina, 500 boats - it's social, communal - male, massed, queued, pink flesh - round, rolling, aged.

"...they have been excited all morning...", Casper (4), Ted (2) and Swede parents are aboard for the day. Beautiful bay, dinghy ashore, they pick wild blue berries.

Cruising life means many friends, many farewells.

An moonlit evening strolling the magnificence of Stockholm, so much to see, so unlikely to return.

 

 

 

 

Sahula departs in the early morning light, astern the great buildings, palaces, spires, recede into memory.

Through the Baggenstaket (narrow channel) to the southern archepelago and to Mem at the start of the Gota Canal.

It's midday, Sahula has been underway some 6 hours, an anchorage is found off route (en piste).

"Alchemist" (lead to gold), USA yacht crew is aboard for sundowners - boats, cruising, politics, family...

A swim, paddle on Bridget (paddle board) amongst the islands. Small yachts, motor boats, snug, bow to - families valuing time - occupy hidden bays.

The great, white, fleet is out en masse stretched along the inter island, charted, "pleasure boat routes." It is a cool, cloudless, sparkling, summer day.

Depending on wind, Tina Two (electronic) and Valerie (wind vane) guide Sahula.

Disaster: in a narrow channel, Skipper is distracted, Sahula veers, feet from a rock wall - hard a port - all is well. Skipper notes to not use Tina Two in busy narrow passages.

A walk in the forest - soundless - small birds flit - a calm, natural, silent, place.

Skipper sketches a ruby red sunset, indelible memory of Sweden's skargard (islands).

Sahula enters the fjord to Mem to begin a transit through Sweden's interior and largest lakes to west coast, Gothenburg.

Next Report: Gota Canal - Mem to Lake Vanern.

Best

David

sv Sahula