Passage Report No. 73

Kiel to Copenhagen

It's a fine day, puff clouds and cool - Sahula departs the British Army Yacht Club for Denmark, stopping at Strande Marina for fuel (1.57 Eu/lt).

Northerly prevents Sahula sailing. Tanya does it again.

Crew (German student) is on his first major "sail." He enjoys the steep "curve." Mainsail up but the headwind persists.

It's late afternoon, requiring a harbour or anchorage. Coastlines are shallow so Sahula follows the markers (topped by "Xmas trees" (brushes) in various configerations) into Nakskov Fjord to anchor in behind Enorhoje Island (2-3m). It's a place of painted cliffs, pine trees and clear waters dappled by weed and sand. It is Sahula's first anchorage since the Romanian/ Bulgarian Danube. A similar shallowness (mud, sand) makes for easy anchoring throughout the Danish archipelago.

"Sundowners," wine and crisps, celebrates the calm, setting sun. Life is good.

In an unknown environment, finding an unguided safe haven is a challenge. More so in this region where the weather pressure charts herald an "army" of Atlantic lows threatening to invade the seeming serenity. Skipper extends the anchor chain.

Early start, long day into the Masned Sund ( 1.8 -3m) and Ulvsund channels) past Vordingborg. By midday, a northerly gale sets in. Channel streams white. Sahula butts (25-30 knots) headwinds, channeled between the numerous islands - green, farmed and flat. Beautiful, historic, homes amid the plentiful forest line the channel.

Tides are minimal; depth and currents may be affected by water shifts (1-2 m) driven by strong winds. Difficult to predict.

A spagetti of elegant bridges connects the islands. Sahula slides beneath three (20m and 26m air ht.) Bridge marker (where to pass under) are local not CENVI. Skipper opts for the highest clearance on a "sloping" bridge. Channel (2.5 -11 m) is well marked with long cyclindrical markers topped with coloured (red, green or black) triangular or square "brushes" ( bird denying and virtually weightless).

Kalvehavn marina welcomes Sahula (135 Krona (18 euro). The "box" berth entry in a cross wind gale, steepens crews "curve." It requires "threading" the yacht between two poles and looping them, cowboy like, then forward, putting lines, from each side, ashore, so the ship is tied securely in the box, while ensuring boats alongside remain undamaged. A challenge for two, to be avoided if solo.

Hot shower salves all. Tomorrow is forecast calm and easterly.

Arial (Aries wind vane) requires a new, Danish made, cockpit block. Ordered online for collection in Copenhagen.

From 30 kts to a calm, cool, sunny, fine day; Sahula departs, ghosting through shallow, clear, green water (1.7 -3.2m) over sandy weed, into the final narrow channel to the sea.

"Channel is well marked but ensure you keep between the marks - either side there is "no" water" - local advice found true.

Light winds assisted by Tanya, send Sahula to Copenhagen.

Passenger and container ships, local yachting fleets and small ships, compress into the Oresund ( Sound - 8 m) at Copenhagen's entry to the Baltic. Sweden is on the horizon.

The inner harbour is alive with small boats, relishing the evening's clear cool. Ashore citizens, promenade the harbour walls. Sahula manouvres up the Christianhavns Kanal - a narrow slice into the city centre. It tests Skippers turning skills, to berth in a "box" (200 krona/28 euro) into a scene, reminiscent of Amsterdam. Sahula, later, moves to alongside the canal wall for easier access.

Skipper explores Copenhagen - city of church spires, palaces, grand architexture, open air cafes, squares and parks. It is not Paris nor Amsterdam nor London. It is a small city compromise with the grand, dark (red,wine brick) public buildings, massed bicycle riders, open air cafes, busy canals and low city profile. Spectacular modern, glass, low rise architecture (Opera House, Theatre) merges with the old.

As with Amsterdam, citizens are slim and attractive. Obesity's scrouge and mass cyclists don't mix. Parents with children (sometimes three) in a "box" trailer, peddle by. There is a wonderful freedom of a contented citizenry.

Skipper visits the Rosenborg Palace, once home to Danish kings (Christian 7th, Frederick etal) - with overly ornate, romantic period rooms for over indulged royalty. It is also "home" to priceless, royal jewels, crowns, diplomatic gifts and artifacts. It is set in Kings Gardens - crowded with oblivious, pink, city sunseekers, relishing the opportunity to tan.

Skipper needed an "art fix." The National Museum of Art provided it. Collections of French, German and Danish "norske. It was an opportunity observe the evolution of the national. attitudinal and cultural differences, inherited in European art. At its apex, French impressionist modern remains uniquely, social impost and politics free; wonderfully colourful. Danish "norske" modern, darker, while colourful, remains impressed by stressful conflicts, social condition and politics. Swedish artist, Munck epitomises the difference. Older art expresses the power of royals and nobles, remote, egotistical pomposity. Stormy sea/ land scapes, bleak skies render the long, harsh, cold winter. There are no Van Gogh wheat fields, Monet haystacks and lilies, with their pure, colourful symphonies.

Sahula stays another day, relishing the warmth of clear sunny days and a beautiful, cultural city.

Next Report: Copenhagen to Sweden.

Best

David

26th May, 2012

　

　

　

　

　

　

　

　

Passage Report 71 Elbe to Baltic

Passage Report: 72

Elbe to Baltic

Sahula is at the Baltic "gate" - the Kiel Canal. A ebb tide sped Sahula to Brunsbuttel and Alte Schleusen (lock) that raised Sahula the metres from river to canal.

Constructed between 1887-1895 when the fractious Schleswig - Holstein region was merged into the Kaiser's German empire, the canal remains an "engineering masterpiece." It wends its way for 85 km, between two entry and departure locks.

Sahula revelled in the pervading, eerie, placidness of summer green trees, bird song, ducks, geese, goslings and graceful swans - a Danubian memory.

Laced also with huge container ships, barges, square riggers, yachts, passing between green country, farms and villages.

Medieval Rendsburg provided sanctuary at 65 km. Strong cross winds ensured Sahula's entry to the marina's "box" mooring (yacht is berthed bow to the quay after taking stern lines to two, widely separated, poles on entry) was a chaotic challenge.

Skipper met and inspired by a solo, ex-academic, Scot, skipper of a Vancouver 25; cruiser of northern Norway, Baltic, Scotland and Ireland.

Museum gave reality to the Baltic regions, complex politics - subjected to greed and creed - of various sovereigns (Denmark, Sweden, Poland, Prussia, Russia, etal), encouraged by the Dutch, French, English determined to protect the sources of timber, flax and hemp - shipbuilding essentials; all lucrative trade for the monopolistic Hanseatic burghers, intermingled with the Protestant and Holy Roman Empires expansionary, warlike, whims; all set in harsh, cold winters. It laid the basis for later, laity, uprisings (acting on the French revolutionary example), the rejection of hereditary titles, feudalism, and inevitable democracy.

A history difficult to link to these peaceful, prosperous, hospitable, peoples.

Sahula, swept by wet, stern winds, sped to Holtenau and the final lock (Canal fee [12m]: 18 euro) and entered the Baltic. She had arrived after some two weeks (380 km) of North Sea challenges.

Numerous square riggers lined the wharves, shipping and sailing yachts plied the Kiel waters. The area has Europe's heaviest concentration of private boats.

Sahula moored at the welcoming, British Kiel Yacht Club marina (18 Euro - no fuel, wifi) at Stickenhorn. Again, a cross wind at the "box" berth tested crews skills. The Club is the British Army, EU, sail and adventure, training centre.

Nearby, the magnificent, wooden, 60 foot, sloop, "Flamingo," past private yacht of Nazi, Goerman. The Club photo of its owner sailing, is exempt from a German national ban on Nazi public expositions.

Alongside, a small yacht owned by a foundation member of the Humber Cruising Association, Grimsby.

"Go small, go soon, go far" (Pardy) - cruising truism.

A hot shower soothed; a good meal fulfilled; sleep ensured; a calm tomorrow.

Crew departed for Ipswich. Skipper was grateful for his assistance. Crew was grateful for the experience. A German student (friend of Danube crew) was asked to join on Sunday.

Sahula rests for four days before departing for Denmark, Sweden and Norway. Departure is delayed awaiting advice from the locally based, Baltic representative of the Cruising Association of England (Skipper is a member). Skipper values local advice on passages between Danish islands.

A feature of North Sea and Baltic cruising is wide shallow, coastal and estuary, waters.

Skipper is told German marine police strictly enforce (by "on spot" fines, collected by "fish net") crossing the many shipping transit lanes at right angles.

Next Report: Kiel to Norway.

Best

David

17th May, 2012

passage report 71 Grimsby to Elbe

Passage Report No. 70

Grimsby to Elbe

Fish Pen Dock was in free flow (open locks), Sahula departing Grimsby, steamed into the ebbing Humber, past Spurn Point and into the North Sea.

Cruising freedom is “cutting the cloth.” The journey had changed. Crew has a time limit, Skipper needs a crew. Unsettled weather, persistent Northerlies and expensive harbours, determine that Sahula must make for the Elbe River, Kiel Canal and the Baltic. The reverse of the original plan via Scotland and the Shetland Islands.

A light northerly prevails. Tanya and sails drove Sahula east, amongst countless oil and gas rigs and shipping. Wind turns south. An orange sunset augured well. Another day to the destination.

A ship conducting seismic operations requested Sahula change course.>p>

A lone seal watched progress.

Clouds swept in, rain and rising wind. Winlink (HF radio online) provided emails and weather. The forecast included possible Gale 8 (40 knots) in nearby “Dogger” sector. BBC radio provided confirmation. Sahula changed course towards possible refuge ports in the Dutch Frisian Islands.

Winds rise (25-30 knots), seas steepen and break, green water, sprays, rolls, cold across the deck (cockpit plastic covers keep crew dry), oil rigs, shipping, winds ever changing - north east to south east. Sahula lays south east for Dan Helder port. Wind backs to south east. Sahula changes to Vlieland Island.

Brandaris (Teschelling Island) radio provided advice through the narrow, shallow entry channel. After a dark, draining, night on the notorious North Sea; dawn and the marina (27 Euros) provided welcome calm.

Vlieland is an upmarket summer resort providing sand dunes and beaches

.

Inland the Dutch “mast up” canal route beckoned weather free. Crew’s time limit determined returning to the offshore coastal route north. Dawn welcomed a light southerly. The Elbe is a day and night away. Tanya with sails set on a calm sea and favourable tide, fog lifting to a clear sky, had Sahula swiftly moving north.

Dutch Customs ship looms astern “We wish to board your vessel.”

Black “RIB” races alongside. Two pleasant officers check documents, ask if guns are aboard; a cursory inspection and depart.

“Something to tell my friends” crew.

Sahula sails into German waters. Barometer is dropping, dark clouds astern and ahead. Wind changes to North.

Yet nothing changes!

Crew is having many firsts: nights at sea, storm conditions, port entry in dark, mooring.

Skipper calls Coast Guard for a weather report. All prior reports don’t note a change. Ems Traffic (Emden Port Control, Ems River) report storm conditions for the German Bight (location of Elbe River): “You should seek shelter.”

Sahula returns to Borkum Island at the Ems River entrance, gateway to Emden city. In pitch black, reliance on lights, digital and paper charts and intuition, take over. Across the Riffgat bank (Ems Traffic confirms sufficient depth 6-7 m), into the main shipping channel, past the sparkling town, to the marina entrance – an invisible, one kilometre, black “slot” into the river tidal flat.

Radar on, entry between close Red and Green, Sahula lined up the unseen narrow channel. In an act of faith, Skipper conning, crew steering; two unlit metal buoys slide by. Sahula passes the final flashing green and edges in to the ex-naval base, marina basin. At 0200 hours, Sahula berthed, crew rested, sleep.

Morning dawned, the rigging howled to the forecast

southerly.

“You can’t leave, the River is very rough.” Frisian entrapment. Less than a day away, the Elbe seemed an eon.

Crew relaxed in Borkum marina (20 Euros per night). No Wi-Fi, no shops. Three huge wind (electrical generators) propellers, moaning remorselessly, strangely, stand sentinel over Sahula.

Borkum (5 km walk) is a German North Sea, summer, tourist town. Impeccable, aged, middle class tourists mill before the hotels that wall the wide, windswept, esplanade and sand beach. Almost none speak English (cf. to Holland). Massed, colourful, striped, beach “cuddies” (covered, wind protected, beach seats) stand forlorn. Crowds promenade the pedestrian shopping mall filling the restaurants, bars, clothes shops.

Wind turns south. “Can Sahula depart?” Ems Traffic weather report includes “…force 5-7 possible 8…” From Borkum esplanade, the North Sea rages white.

Forecasts suggested a Sunday departure.

The Elbe, entry to the Kiel Canal and the Baltic, remains a tantalising, day’s sailing.

“Will the weather improve?” “In May; May will be good!” – date: eleventh May! - the eternal optimism of European life.

Crew finds a German yacht is leaving tomorrow (Saturday) – “winds dropping.” In morning, Dutch Coast Guard, Ems Traffic forecast dropping winds at sea but on the coast, gale warnings persist (6-7 WNW). Nordeney Island, the last “bolthole” before the Elbe reports a “dangerous” entrance “…in onshore wind above Force 4, seas break heavily on either side of the winding channel…” Sahula remains in Borkum marina.

“you can go to Nordeney, the inland route, through the estuary mudflats.” German yacht, lifting keel (1.4m max), plans to leave. “1.7m – too deep, if ground may have to await higher tide.” Sahula, tempted, remains in Borkum.

Tomorrow, forecast is wind dropping. Frustration, anticipation – to be or not to be?

Sahula awaken to silent “propellers.” Ebb tide rushes to Riffgat entrance – 4 m steep almost breaking seas – Sahula lunges for open ocean, “bites the bit, strains the reins,” grasps a tide and speeds (6-7.5 knots) to the Elbe.

Estimated at 12 hours; in 9 hours Sahula, pass the rivers Jade, the Weser, to off Elbe entrance buoy, mingling with mass shipping. Under full sails and Tanya, she drives through, just outside the channel, against an ebb tide. Astern, dusk, darkening clouds, wind increasing, she urges on.

Shipping parades continually by. Huge container vessels; three square riggers, lights ablaze, pass. It is dark, under a star blessed sky. Deeper inland , in a narrowing channel, Sahula confronts a 5 knot ebb “rapid.” She halts. Full power by Tanya and slowly, infinitesimally, Sahula is off the Cuxhaven Yacht Haven entrance. The moon rises, a deep orange crescent. It is 0300, dawn. Safely alongside, crew sleeps. Long overdue, Sahula has arrived.

Crew’s time aboard is short. Sahula tomorrow enters the Kiel Canal and into the Baltic.

NOTES: Cruising is enjoining the unknown. Sahula left Ipswich with naive expectations. An unpredictable North Sea spring, hatched gales and head winds. It is a truism that lessons learnt, in one place, invariably are noted but little used. A cruiser moves on. Sahula changed the cruise plan. Nevertheless, the doing gives increasing intuition about a region. Skipper is in steep learning mode. Sahula has weathered some of the North Sea’s worst. Once in the Baltic the cruise changes to possible short days sails with many “boltholes” and ports. However, she moves north, into more weather learning. Such is the realm of sailboat cruising. Why do we do it? “Because it is there” – Edmund Hilary. To which may be added to embellish life with the sense of risk and visual beauty that only the doing can give.

Next Report: Elbe to the Baltic.

Best,

David.

14^th May, 2012.

Passage Report No. 70

Ipswich to Grimsby

April-May 2012

“Grim” and a place to pass “by” – that’s Grimsby.” A reputation soon to be “wonderful Grimsby”.

Sahula butted north under rare sunshine. Tanya drove into a moderate sea making five knots over the land but two or three through the water. Tides decide all.

There was no plan to visit Grimsby up the River Humber. There was no plan to visit Lowestoft.

Crew was seasick – all day. Debilitated, white, Lowestoft offered “time out” – and the century old “Royal Suffolk and Norfolk Yacht Club marina offered a hot marina shower and waiting pub beer.

Crew bought “Sturgeon” for seasickness.

Next day, early start to cross the notorious Wash. Sahula repeated the previous day except that the Aries windvane steering paddle unhinged neutralising the Tillerpilot electronic self-steering. Crew would need to hand steer.

“We’ll hand steer to Hartlepool (200 miles) –there are three of us.”

By midday a Force 3-4 had increased to twenty plus knots. Sahula plunged and rolled in a rising northerly whipped sea. Yarmouth the last port passed to port.

“It is forecast to ease overnight.”

“The weather is different this year, the lows are coming west. There are front all over the place. The forecasters are looking into a crystal ball.”

Cloudy, wet, ink black night enshrouded Sahula. Cupboards spilled into the saloon. Chaos reigned. Sahula gamely plunged on. The next port is the Humber to Hull.

The wind and waves increased. Spray and green water swamped the deck. Crew were cold but dry in a fully enclosed cockpit wearing full weather gear. Watches three on three off experienced rest but not sleep. The recurring question is “why do this.”

Skipper ruled “We go in”

Coast Guard weather forecast worse conditions.

“You can anchor at Spurn Point.” Crew could rest without the longer passage up the Humber. Tired eyes, incomprehension stared at the watery  tide whipped cauldron. This was not a place to anchor without local knowledge. Crew did not want to risk being high and dry.

Grimsby beckoned. Anywhere to stop.

Entry is via Fish Dock Pen. Sahula guided through the shallows, entered a lock barely able to accommodate. Friendly strong accents welcomed crew.

Humber Cruising Association (HYA) provided all facilities and a warm welcome. The club was developed by volunteer, yacht owning members in the old fishing harbour. It shows as facilities recognise all needs.

In the clubhouse bar, members sit discussing boats and cruising. Crew were welcomed to join in. Later, musicians joined the bar. It was an eon from the trials of a few hours ago.

Grimsby was England’s largest fishing port until a decade prior, fishing grounds collapsed, regulations prevented fishing Icelandic and northern waters. A fish odour pervades the dilapidated port; a reminder of history. Today, it remains the largest fish processing port with endless trucks bringing fish resource from Scotland and other ports.

Twelve hours sleep revives Skipper. One crew opts to leave. Other crew and Skipper await a wind change.

“It will be a southerly on Sunday.” Crew have another day to rest and do maintenance. The Aries paddle is secured.

“It is a good plan, I have positive vibes.” Crew have recovered, optimism returns and plan for leaving. Depart Sunday before the forecast southerlies, for Helgoland off the Elbe River and entry to the Kiel Canal into the Baltic. Time lost will be regained. All depends on the weather. Crew is happy as his time aboard may not allow more stopovers between northerlies. Skipper can solo from the Kiel Canal.

HYA members give approval and advice. Cruising again looks far from grim.

Next Report: Grimsby to Elbe.

David

5^th May, 2012