passage report 58 Linz to Regensburg

Passage Report No. 58

Linz to Regensburg, Germany

May, 2011

Sahula, welcomed by Johann, is in Linz alongside one of the few visiting boat wharves (1 Euro per metre, water, electricity, no wifi¸ supplies, fuel station nearby, riverside walk to city or No. 27 bus).

The centre; a mix of old and new, expresses the city's industrial prosperity. Clean, bustling, a new "glass" art gallery and technology museum, it is a city of the River.

It's been a long day. The Danube weaved its way through the narrow, dam flooded gorge, hedged in by forested hills. Cyclists crowded the river side tracks.

After three locks, Sahula entered Germany - 2200 km and seven countries since the Black Sea.

"Have you seen a red Australian yacht?" - Lock masters phone to confirm a Sahula sighting. Cyclists, Leo and Barbara, (German) are friends of Crew. They "found" Sahula and were aboard for two days.

After four attempted anchoring (dam flooded lakes are to alleviate prior fast rock rapids), in ebbing dusk, Passau loomed large. A striking cityscape silhouette of medieval buildings and church spires at the junction of three rivers: Danube, Inn, Ilz. The salt trade, on large wooden boats towed by some 50 horses established the city's prosperity. The Inn flows fast and full. Its brown water mixing the smaller green Danube.

Fleets of passenger ships, attested to the tourist trade and the insignificance of one small yacht. Navigation lights on Sahula rested alongside the city river wall to be moved on by police at dawn.

"You can't stay here, there are no "sportsboot" berths till Heining..." - some 10 km upriver past the next locks.

"... you take the first bollard..." yelled the German lockmaster "...is this your first lock..." Skipper harboured foreboding as lock filling turbulence is dangerous (previous locks had filled on the entry end). The lock filled at the exit end. Never argue with a lockmaster.

Consistency in locks is missing. Their different construction dates provide many variations - filling method: exit or entry end, bottom (calmer) or at gate (very turbulent), floating or static bollards (some or all and which lock wall), if a bridge (combined lock, dam), the air height (lowest was 8 metres).

Sahula's "system:" fendered by two large "ball" fenders forward and mid aft, a wooden plank (rough, concrete lock walls) supported by two "conical" fenders, mid boat. Forward and mid boat bollard lines looped over a single lock bollard (bollards are wide apart).

Sahula contacts the lock master for instructions (VHF lock channel on chart) usually (unusual Sahula only docking) entering the lock after the "commercial" ships to take up bollards on the wall opposite the other boat. Turbulence from exiting ships is another issue. Sahula exits first only if advised.

With minimum pre-entry (average 20 minutes) and transit time (20 minutes), locks do not unduly hinder a day's passage.

The "sportsboothafen" (MYC) welcomed Sahula (all facilities, no fuel - 20 Euro a night).

"Orca's" voyage is to the Black Sea." It is shallow ahead..." Johann advises.

Bus to Passau. Cobbled narrow streets, tourist shops, medieval and 18th Century buildings for tourists, modern huge malls for the locals. Castle dominates on a hilltop with well presented museum and art gallery. Views of city below and Danube curving into the hills.

Spring is in the air - and the water. Evening families of white swans with five signets, joined by 7 ducklings.

Goodbye Deggendorf. The Danube, less Inn, is a much smaller (100m in places) rock strewn, stream. It seems a new, less major, River, winding through the plain... Its fast current cuts the narrowest and shallowest (1.9 m) over a longer distance. The "2m alarm" frequently rings its dirge. Barges (reassuringly, confident) pass by.

Weekend sun seekers line the pebble beaches. "Sportboots" (outboard, modern cruisers) streak by and anchored in off channel "bays."

Moored in an off channel "sportsboothafen" Sahula's crew dine at a beer garden. Snitzel, Spaghetti ice-cream, Banana Split, Disney Donald.

Cyclists depart, fresh "Sunday" bread shop, skype family, onto the River.

It is Sahula's shallowest day - 1.6-7m - "alarm" ringing. Skipper ponders the possibility of being 120 km from the 2400 km end on a shallowing River.

Sahula was twice, mud churning, caught by current, facing rocks. Barges prove reassuring.

Massive cumulus over mountains, give hope, prove illusory.

"Wanda" - 2500 tonnes, 110 m "...1.6m but propeller..." (was dredging).

Bogen monastery, steeple spearing, dominates from its "berg."

Evening berth past Straubing lock at the "sportsboot" wharf. Anchorages are not possible in rock strewn River. Riverside wharves, "yacht" clubs are invariably full, private and too shallow (1.4 or less).

Straubing was a River town till sliced off by a dam, lock and canalised lake. A map of Danube past shows riverine wet lands fed by a wandering watercourse. New dams for a deeper, less current, controlled, commercial Danube are controversial.

Passengers dance and dine oblivious to their passing ship's seemingly impossible intention; in the inky darkness, to navigate the rock strewn, shallows of Sahula's day.

"...it is the lowest I can remember..." Straubling local "... but it is ok from here..."

Captain Jord ("River Countess" - 115m passenger boat) "...sometimes it is millimetres to bottom..."

Sahula's last day but one on the River - in the heart of Europe. Day dawns calm, sunny. "De rigueur" is board shorts.

Land of a thousand white steepled villages, upon verdant green.

Islands of noisy, river bird colonies.

Within trees, an orchestra of the rites of spring,

Sahula snakes the "S" bends in the currentless calm.

From the hills above, in King Ludwig's huge whimsical, Doric temple (1842) 118 illustrious marble Germans stoically stand over the Danube.

St. Stephens spire spears above Regensberg's medieval city. A UNESCO World Heritage "cultural" site of well preserved cobble stone alleyways, angled, colourful, buildings, sidewalk cafes, plazas and parks

The sign says "sports" - a small boat harbour past the main town.

30 feet between pylons, Sahula enters, depth drops (2m), current surges, full on Tanya - 700 year old bridge remains unmarked - shore side tourist agog, Crew concerned.

It is too shallow (1.4), next marina, a berth (1.5m) (15 Euro/night - water, electricity, showers, fuel past next lock) - Skipper relieved...

Wifi and an internet cafés are rare in Germany. Skipper buys a sim card but finds skype is prohibited to prepaid mobiles. Government policy is to limit free phones to ensure profitable pay phones.

The "East German Gallery" exhibits a Max Peckstein (1900's impressionist) collection. Skipper is enjoying superb galleries in the Danube cities.

The "power tower" lifts thrill seeking passengers (Crew) to150 m. and drops - it is a Bavarian fair of side-show alley, beer halls and traditional dress.

Sahula is within 20 km of leaving the River at Kelheim. A time to relax.

Next Report: Goodbye Danube Hello, Main - Danube Canal.

David

23rd May, 2011

Report no. 57 Vienna to Linz

Passage Report No. 57

May, 2011

Vienna to Passau

Vienna is not Budapest, a Queen of the River. Vienna is not a river city. Its heart is its magnificent buildings, statues and palaces. It is a Royal city, seat of the Austrian- Hungarian and Habsburg empires. The River clips the centre but a modern diversion behind a canal, passes it further east. This is where Sahula rested at the Wein Marina.

A visit to the Shronbaun Palace confirmed Vienna’s place. This “Versailles” country estate provided the Habsburgs with time out in luxurious rooms or idylling in the garden acres of forest, statues, maze and zoo.

The city estate, the Habsburg Palace equalled it in all but the “smaller” gardens. Such opulence now survives for the milling tourists.

Other palaces housed the Habsburg art collection (fine art - pre-20th century) and many others. At the Albertina gallery (impressionist to modern) Skipper revelled in art that crowds pages.

Music and art are Vienna. Mozart and Strauss, provided the music for a concert in the ornate Konzerthaus.

The Danube is rarely (one work) a subject of art. Where done it is a background. Strauss “Blue Danube” being the exception. Strauss, from a Viennese, hilltop, café, viewed the River reflecting “blue” as it snaked to the horizon.

The lyrics ( “…saccharine sweet and banal…” (Heikell)), romanticise the everyday use of the River:

“Danube so blue,

You flow straight through

The meadows and dales

Vienna now hails

Your Silvery stream

With glistening gleam,

For hearts that are happy

Beat on your shores and sweetly dream

From the forest black

To the sea you track,

You give blessing while caressing,

And while flowing East,

You have never ceased

Joining shore to shore

Forever more,

Castles from on high

Watch you passing by,

Send a fleeting

Joyful greeting

And the mountain peak

On which sun beams streak,

Is reflected in

Your waves unique.”

(Franz Gerneth, 1890)

Crew attracted by an international ice hockey match travelled to Bratislava, scored no ticket, and couldn’t contain a propensity for Danube bridge jumping (at 0300).

“…never again…” - sitting is a painful.

Tanya (engine) “enjoys” new oil. Batteries, a refill.

“Stop, stop – slow down…” - frantic waving, Sahula was in the grip of a friendly barge skipper. The lock had no “floating” bollards on one side so Sahula was invited to tie to the barge. Sahula left the lock, alongside, as the barge gathered way she was slowly, healing, folding, alarmingly, under his vessel. With relief Sahula was let go. Its skipper tooted and waved farewell – unaware of the impending disaster.

At anchor, river calm, “sundowners” – contrasts.

“Rain in Germany, very good…” Barge ((Regensburg bound - 20 days from Constanta, Romania) is keen to raise the river level. “…a flood? Skipper asks, “… only centimetres…” Tanya (engine) ponders…

Rain, wind, cold. The Wachau valley, reputedly the “jewel” of the Austrian Danube, beckons through two dam, two locks.

A passenger boat steams by. Sahula ties to a “floating” bollard astern (there are none on the opposite side)) of the passenger boat but too close to the rear gates where the filling water turbulently boils and surges. Sahula’s mooring lines and fenders are tested.

Current races through the narrow (and shallow 3-4 m), Wachau Valley. The Schonbuhel Castle (atop) riverside rock narrows the river, divided again by a mid river outcrop, plunges through a side, white water rapid. Tanya’s revs increase (2200) to slowly pass against the racing current.

Anchorages are difficult to find. Mooring pontoons are reserved for passenger boats and ferries.

“…best anchorage so far…”: Crew. Sahula anchors (2-3m) in a close shore eddy, off a sandy beach, opposite ancient, Durnstein village, marked by a blue baroque church spire, cobbled streets, amid medieval buildings. English crusader King, Richard the Lionheart, spent years in the hilltop castle dungeon. (Heikell).

Castles, colourful heritage villages, spires, terraced vineyards compose the Wachau Valley. Tanya, at 2000 revs challenges the buoy surging, current (4-5 knots).

The many monasteries, large and small, testify to the religious power. Melk Monastery stands huge - many storied, yellow and onion topped. Villages may have two or more spires.

Skipper’s watercolours record the varying church spires. Maypoles (Xmas tree atop tall pole, red white streamers) adorn each village

Sahula slowly enters the Melk lock. A barge offers an alongside berth but experience says “no thank you.” Sahula is tied to fixed bollards. As the water rises mooring lines are moved to the upper bollard. In locks after Vienna, locks may (or not) have floating bollards only on outside (not middle wall where two locks) wall.

A “yacht” harbour (Marbach, off channel, off dam lake)) provides a quiet anchorage (2-3m).

At Ybbs lock Sahula rises 12 m. The end is “gated” to limit air height (8m).

A “new” duck, black with white head dives along the shore. Wildlife resides, mostly (exception: White Swans) unseen, in off river (out of dam lakes), wetlands. Dam lakes are walled to prevent flooding of low lying wetlands. Cyclists speed by on the wall paths.

Monasteries – testament to religious power – stand yellow, onion topped and multi-story on hills and in villages. The Melk Monastery stands large.

Pre-dams, Grein was a pilot station for the Strudengau Rapids and whirlpools. Today the River narrows between steep hills, flows fast but no rapids. Castles watch over.

Skipper does small sketches (ink, watercolour) of towns, churches – life on the Danube.

Two dams, two locks and calm lakes ensure Sahula does some 70-80 kms.

Lock technique is honed: berth alongside well forward and on left side. A “ball” fender forward and aft; a wooden plank fender on two “cyclinder” fenders between (rough cement walls). Lines from boat’s center bollard (kept tight) and from forward. Both lines to one lock bollard. Lock bollard maybe “floating” or fixed (moved as boat rises). Filling turbulence is usually from lock entrance end.

Sahula passes the Linz industrial pollution to a marina. Every marina has a “Hans,” to greet, render assistance, ease life into local needs.

Sahula is in Linz two nights to refuel, resupply and see the old city heart.

Next Report No. 58 Linz to Germany.

David

18/5/11

Report 54 Belgrade to Nova Sad

Sahula Passage Report. No. 54

April, 2011

Belgrade to Nova Sad, Serbia

“Welcome to Belgrade,” George (mob: +381652082998, Dir: 011 2628250, info@restoranvodencia.co.rs), owner of the Vodenica fish restaurant in Sava River entrance, takes a line from Sahula. Coffee, liqueur and a city map, soon see Skipper and Crew amongst the Kalemegdan Citadel. Its battlements impose over the Danube and herald the city centre. The city lines the Sava rather than the Danube.

Belgrade was reputedly bland (“WWII “…reconstruction in bland concrete… not hurt to build it again (Heikell 1991);” “…one of the ugliest cities imaginable, repulsively so…” (Negley Farson, 1924) the result of some 30 reconstructions at the hands of various invaders and incipient wars to recent times.

Times have changed; Sahula’s experience is the opposite. City parks surrounded by Hapsburg and Ottoman architecture, put paid to any blandness. Open air cafes, art galleries, book shops, along tree lined streets and wide pedestrian boulevards of chic shops, people and families, make for a friendly, beautiful, vibrant, city.

“Why are you here, you don’t need to see me,” Harbour Master “frees” Sahula till exiting Serbia in Nova Sad. Once entry process is complete, Serbian ports are clear till exit.

Skipper and Crew attend a game at the Serbian Tennis Open which Serbian hero, Novak, won convincingly.

Belgrade yacht berths/marinas (apart from George’s) are in the channel off the Sava River towards the upstream Danube confluence. Another marina is upstream of it, along the River. The pontoon alongside the city, before the bridge, is reserved for passenger ships. Police, customs, Harbour Master are located at or near, the pontoon.

Captain Jord emails that the River’s shallowest depth, at Szoit, (1559) (Hungary), was 2.70 m. In a “drying” River, Sahula moves on.

Rubbish tips, suburban, city and village, plastic bags, human refuse, tipped off high bank tops, tumbling to the River. Homes (large, neat, wealthy) view from shore and rarely river recreate (few boats, apart from fishing dories). Pollution is “out of sight, out of mind.”

International River agreements, environmental ethics seem unknown, uneducated, unsupported. Danube bleeds.

Off channel, anchored; a Pusher, off course came up inside seemingly mistaking Sahula’s anchor light for a stern beacon. It grounded at two metres. A reminder: competency does not reside in all commercial captains – anchor shallow.

Captain Jord suggested exiting Serbia at Novi Sad. Reputed to have “lively cultural air…” (Heikell), Sahula would stop overnight. There are no places to stop. The pontoons are all for larger ships and the floating restaurant berth was occupied and the police (at “their” pontoon) instructed to return when leaving. Sahula anchored off under the Petrovardin fortress’s battlements.

Perhaps indicative of the few visitors on yachts was the confusion amongst officialdom. The “transit log” was deficient as there was no Harbour Master form from Veliko Gradiste. This was subsequently emailed through.

Petrovardin fortress and surrounding village is the cities greatest asset. The town is a mix of old and new along pedestrian boulevards and narrow ancient streets that feed to a square dominated by a superb tiled roof, “cathedral.” It was not a challenge to Ruse.

Sahula duly moored to the “police” pontoon (so customs could visit – they never did) to be advised that only passenger ships (like Captain Jord’s) could avoid exit at the Serbia - Croatian border town of Bezdan. Sahula, as in Belgrade, had no need to visit officialdom at all in Novi Sad.

However, the sting was yet to come. “Privatisation” meant that the pontoon “master” could claim 60 Euros for the short visit (subsequently reduced, under protest, to 30 Euros for the one hour). Crew’s short fuse on officialdom was suitably expressed and Sahula moved to anchor, a suitable distance upriver (some 5 kms). Skipper and Crew, resolved to avoid pontoons and press onto Budapest.

Next Report: Novi Sad, Bezdan, to Budapest.

David

29/4/11

report no 56, Budapest to Vienna

Passage Report No 55

May 2011

Budapest to Vienna

There is an air of expectation aboard Sahula. Budapest has been long awaited. Around a bend, industrial monoliths give way, on south side, to the Royal Palace, St Mathius Cathedral and fortress walls capping the defensible hill. This side is Buda. Opposite on the Puszta's (Hungarian plain stretching to infinity) Danube "lip" is Pest, lined with grand buildings. The grandest of all being the Parliament Buildings modelled on London's Westminster. The cities profile is preserved. No building is higher than St. Peter's Basilica.

Once both independent cities connected only by ferries. A Scotsman, Adam Clark, built the first bridge (a stolid English design) in the 1840's.. There are now six bridges that cut the current to connect Buda to Pest. Sahula passed under all, cameras clicking.

This is a city of the River. Dramatic hill statues pay homage to its aesthetic beauty. There is no evidence (including statues, reportedly stored in a museum) of the Communist past. Heroes are cultural: poets, writers, musicians, royalty and politicians.

A small marina found Sahula a secure "home" (30 Euro a night - shower, water, no wifi, laundry or fuel - another marina opposite has fuel but entry draft is 1.3m. Fuel service station and supermarket nearby.)

Two days (joining tourists hordes) exploring the city including a classical music concert in St. Stephens Citadel, National Art Gallery, city buildings and views.

Camera toting Crew in Zod (dinghy) recorded Sahula passing the Parliament Building.

Budapestrians in canoes, kayaks, modern motor boats, some picnicking on beaches or from the many riverside holiday houses, make for a busy weekend River.

Sahula joins the many passenger ships plying to Vienna. Sahula is on the Queen of Rivers, in the Valley of Kings.

Hilltop, Visegard Palace, home of 12- 15th century Hungarian royalty until bombarded by the Turkish Ottomans, destroyed by the Hapsburgs, then partially rebuilt (18th century), dominates the River. Its towering visage, provided the back ground for Sahulian "sundowners" (drinks).

It is windy, wet and cold. Cabin windows on passing passenger ships reveal no early risers.

Esztergom, some 30 km's upriver, another Royal "city", now seat of the primate of the Hungarian Catholic Church and its largest Basilica ("...only surpassed by St. Peter's (Budapest) and St. Paul's in London...."). It towered over Sahula anchored, to allow crew ashore.

Despite Hungary's, some 150 years of Ottoman Turkish rule, the only evidence is an indistinct, remanent of an Esztergom mosque minaret and paintings in the National Gallery of bloody, battlefield, Christian victories.

Slovakia on the north shore, Hungary to the south. Sahula has traversed five countries since Romania.

Skipper is advised that from Budapest to Vienna is the "...hardest part of the River..." It is shallow (2.4-4.0 m) and fast (3-4 km) winding between banks and islands. Navigation threads through green, red, markers.

An astern "north easterly" drives Sahula over the rising, "wind-v-current" sea.

Birds sing, sunset and "sundowners" in a quiet, calm, off channel. Crew exercises "Bridget" - the surfski.

Passing fast "downhill," Italian and Swedish yachts wave by. The river meanders through the flat plain and heavily timbered, rock lined, banks .

The River channel is at one point at its narrowest - 100 m. Rapids seem to have Sahula moving up current and up hill. Tanya (engine) is kept at 1800 revs and the daily kilometres to some 70. Current varies depending on river width, depth and wind. Much of the Hungarian river is deepened by rock "breakwaters" that extend perpendicular to the shore. Current backs then swirls around their extremities.

A word of gastronomic caution - unless removed, Hungarian sausage natural wrap, will clog the electric loo.

An early (1700) anchorage before the first Danube lock, dam and canal (40 km) (Hungary/ Slovakia joint project). Their construction represents a "battle" lost between those protecting the River's natural habitat and providing hydro-electric power (avoiding coal or nuclear options) and improving River navigation (Heikell).

Ruby red sunset, misty morning,

Sahula enters lock with barge and passenger ship. It is the largest lock on the Danube. Lines stretch, entry water boils, and bollards rise. Official notes that Sahula is only the second Australian yacht in memory (probably the first "uphill"). Calm "dam" lake till Bratislava.

Dam and lock is controversial due to islands, lakes and wetlands flooded by 40 km. Dam Lake.

Bratislava is a "river" city. Its mix of historic and ultra modern architecture line the River. Crowds relax on the green river frontage. The hilltop, Royal Castle dominates the city. River boils past city pontoons (commercial). There are no central "sportsbot" (yacht) mooring except at a "yachthafen" well out of town, Sahula opts for Vienna. Tourism has its limits.

The River is at it's fastest - 5 knots. Sahula weaves through the narrow channel; the current surging over the shallow water (2.0- 4.0 m). Passenger ships and ferries pull slowly by. Rapids form off end of shore rock breakwaters.

Sahula eases into a river junction anchorage under Devin Castle. Alarms ring, Sahula is aground - boiling current pushing her further in - hard astern, bow round, full ahead to freedom. Skipper breathes relief. Inlets, out of the fast current, are invariably shallow.

Sahula is in Austria, the sixth country of the Danube odyssey.

Hainsburg: castle behind, heritage buildings, a place to stop. The only pontoon is for passenger ships and ferries. Two small harbours ("yachthafen" for small outboard, motor boats) are too shallow. Sahula anchors upriver, off channel and on the edge of the main current. Passenger ship shines a search light on Sahula.

Crew "surfski's" ashore, challenging the current, to explore the town. Five passenger ships move by.

A yacht (Austrian) and motor boat (English) wave by heading downstream to Black Sea.

Viennese dam and locks protects the city from River floods. A tree branch is caught under the stern. It comes loose. It floats below the surface.

"Come over" - Police at the Vienna station call Sahula in. "We have had a call that you were seen passing packages ashore at the locks." Skipper and Crew are dumbstruck. Police are understanding.

"We do not know your Queensland Marine Drivers Licence." "It is not a river licence." Skipper explains that providing a licence is valid in country of origin, it will be valid for non- EU river users. The matter passes. 1900 kms of River "testing" seems adequate.

Sahula is welcomed to the Wein Marina (43 Euros a night/12m - all facilities, including fuel on dock. except wifi.)

Sahula has been on the River for four weeks and travelled 1940 km.

Next Report: Vienna to Main - Danube Canal into Germany.

David

14th May 2011

Report No. 55 Nova Sad to Budapest

Passage Report No.55

May, 2011

Nova Sad to Budapest

After a month on the River the unfolding riverscape across the plains was beginning to pale. It remained a beautiful river with picturesque villages along densely, wooded banks, but Budapest beckoned. As well, the added attraction of no more officialdom after entering the European Union (in Hungary) made for moving on.

Croatia (some 100 kms) was traversed in transit i.e. no ports only anchorages on an international waterway. Sahula, tactfully, flew the Serbian, Croatian, Australian and "Boxing Kangaroo," flags.

Days pass navigating, reading, preparing, inter alia, videos, articles and art and engaging the languid life of being part of an ancient river.

After Nova Sad the river narrows and shallows to between 2.7 and 3 metres. Current remained the same i.e. between 2 and 3 Km/ hour.

Vukovar's, shell pocked watertower was a reminder of the impact of the 1991 war on the city. Above it, a large, Croatian flag flew defiantly.

"They still have mines in the River in Croatia." Whether true or not, Sahula anchored on the Serbian side.

Seeming to mistake Sahula's white anchor light for her stern light, a large "pusher" grounded nearby, attempting to pass to port. Sahula's off channel and in shallow water anchorage (2-3 m) paid dividends.

River depths rapidly vary to 2.5 - 3 m. Marker buoys are often moored at the edge in shallow water. Sahula, at times, ploughed the River silt.

A flock of white swans swam idly by. Cranes fished off river sandbanks. Fish projectile at insects.

Fishers in traditional scows plied their nets. Ashore, families on holiday, played, fished and waved from their campsites and stilted, holiday bungalows.

Bezdan, the town, is not the border post. The post is on the River, the town some distance inland. Sahula booked out with helpful officials. Serbian officialdom earned kudos.

Sahula anchored on the border. Her anchor was in Hungary but the boat in Croatia. "What about the mines?" says Crew?

The "mine" however, was to be in Hungary. At Mocha village the border post is a new, yellow brick, building upriver from the town. It is not on the chart. Mike, captain, aboard the harbour launch, escorted Sahula to the pontoon.

Fuel and supplies are not available in Mochas. "... available in the yacht harbour in Baja (20 km upriver)."

All went well, passports to the Police, Customs, doctor, then a boat drivers licence was requested (during a boat search) as an E.U. requirement (which commence at Hungary) Skipper had an original, signed, licence letter but it was insufficient, "plastic" was required. This was resolved but not without some concern about identification. It was the first document "hitch" on the Danube. Skipper's "first" since leaving Australia. Sahula, Skipper and Crew are now cleared for Europe. Sahula has an 18 month VAT (tax) exemption and crew, visas are for 3 months.

Sahula passes, going downstream, the second small yacht (Austrian) destined for Turkey.

"Fuel is up canal near bridge, Tosco..." was the advice given at the small boat marina up the canal at Baja central. The "canal" proved impassable but the "Tosco" (marked on chart) source of supplies, fuel and water was correct (anchor near bridge and walk 1 km along highway).

Crew dives into a cold, polluted (sewerage, silt) River which is now shallower and its flow, faster.

Sahula is "fed" and "fuelled" for the two days to Budapest.

The Danube towns, generally, are not equipped for boating tourism other than the passenger ships. Most towns have no small boat mooring facilities. Pontoons are for cruise ships or barges and are expensive. Anchoring off may be the only solution.

The River twists and turns across the flat plains of the Puszta. The Puszta "...has been described as the dullest place in Europe. It's life...is so grey, it's dust..." (Heikell). Times change, it is now rich farm land. It stretches over half of Hungary from the Carpathian Mountains of Transylvania to the Danube.

It is here also, at the Dunadoldvar reaches, that the Danube has its least depth. Captain Jord's advice was the "...move on..." to pass here as the River would be shallower in summer. He subsequently advised that the "River Countess" had, a week before, passed with a depth of 2.7 m.

It was, providentially, evening; time to anchor. Dark clouds, wild wind, and rain saw Sahula riding out the storm at rest. A large barge stopped nearby. Passenger ships raced on.

The river, hereon, narrows, shallows and has faster, but varying flow. Sahula's progress returns to some 70 km over a 10-12 hour period. It is a cold, windy, bleak, River day.

Sahula is "...slowly catching that barge..." "... it is anchored!," "...lucky we didn't slow down to avoid passing it." A long day.

From Dunafoldvar (1560), the River depths, average, 2-3 m. River maintenance boats are re-surveying the changing channel. Rocks, off channel, create the first rapid seen on the River.

Underway at 0530, Sahula arrives in Budapest today. It is a cool, calm and sunny.

Sahula is passing the city centre. Under five bridges, into the heart of the City of the Danube.

Next Report: Budapest, City of the Danube.

Best

David

5/5/11