Passage Report 12

Darwin to Kupang, West Timor, Indonesia

Sv Sahula

It's beautiful under a silver moon on a sparkling ocean with cascading stars bright, loping towards Kupang across the Arafura/Timor Sea.

It's particularly so after some two weeks in Darwin. Darwin is a lovely city. It's small enough to be a town, large enough to have the facilities. However, it is a measure to the sailor that cities are irksome. Sailors enjoy space and a large measure of peace.

Traffic, buses, crowds stimulate but frustrate.

A lovely day swimming in waterfalls crystal clear pools at Litchfield National Park made for some release. The Parap and Milden Beach markets, maritime museum, art gallery, the old town, provided culture. The Darwin Yacht Club personified the innate friendliness of Territorians. 111 Rally yachts nestled in Fanny's bay with ruby red sunsets, had few complaints.

Fanny is known for her highs and lows. Her tides range some 6-8 metres making anchoring interesting.. Monohulls, frustratingly, were well offshore. Multihulls enjoyed their advantage. Particularly when a morning breeze tested the resolve of wet crews such as Sahula's, in small, 2 hp 2m inflatables. The Yacht club hot showers were never appreciated more.

So when 11.00 am Saturday, 26th July loomed the fleet was buzzing. Mainsails sped up masts. Mollie, Sahula's bright blue and white MPS joined other colourful sails in a sailing spectacle that would make ABC news.

Sahula lifted her skirts and sped across an azure Arafura Sea. She moved through the fleet until a lowering evening breeze meant she required Tanya's assistance. Her crew opted for much needed post Darwin sleep, impossible with the motor. The fleet motored over the horizon. Sahula hove to awaiting the Sunday early morning breeze.

Later, with all sails up and Tanya's assistance, she sped to join the fleet. Through the day "oil" again replaced ripples. Tanya assuming command till the late evening breeze gave some respite. For the first two days, calm to light breezes kept Kupang well in the distance. Shore birds glided over barely rippled seas.

Sahula has an attraction to birds. First there was Grace, the dove, (off Bribie Island) now Oscar the booby. He (?) signed on at dusk. He signaled his hesitant intention with long close up glides and flutters. Finally he took up residence on the edge of a solar panel. It was there he left his "signature."

Oscar is an odd bird. He is a seabird yet opted for the hard steel perch rather than the sea. Here, he is safe. All is quiet apart from the muted sounds of a ship rolling one hundred miles offshore. Oscar clearly knew where to rest.

The night "hove to" ensures Sahula an almost last position. "Almost" as at dusk two white triangles signaled company. The daily radio "position" schedule shows those at the head of the fleet being in Kupang a day or so before.

Two ruby red orange orbs and oily seas mark Sahula's days. Tanya is enjoying her full time use. The sails flap listlessly. Faith in the Wind God continues to ebb.

However, Kupang beckons; Tanya assumes night duties. Remarkably, the crew sleep regardless. Emails received on the HF radio give some respite but weather reports predict more of the same.

Night motoring has its risk. At midnight, while crossing the Sahul Banks, a new sound came into Tanya's repertoire. The log slowed to one knot. Sahula seemingly was unwilling to leave her namesake.

A torch over the side revealed a thin blue line leading to the rudder or propeller. Sahula was trapped in a fishing long line. Sahula's star still shined; the line could be reached and pulled aboard to be cut off. It was not around the propeller. Sahula was free, relieved and soon under way.

Sahula's "namesake is a place of monster oil drilling platforms, reefs and great geological contrast. The Sahul Banks rise to seven meters while immediately alongside the Timor Trench plummets to 3500 m.

It is the edge of "Sahulaland," an ancient landform, crafted before rising seas, of PNG and Australia. Similarly joined Indonesian islands were called "Wallacialand" and Asia "Sundaland". Fittingly, "Sahula" means "Australia."

100 miles to go. Trepidation and excitement are in the air.. It is the beginning. The chart marks Sahula crossing Indonesia/ Australia sea boundary. The first of many international and national waters Sahula will adventure in on her global travels.

One "orb" sets, another rises on a ruby day. Life is good. It feeds on contrasts. Great sailing and adventures are interspersed with great frustrations. A sailors "Theory of Relativity."

Sahula is in her final night at sea. The "rear" fleet is slowly coalescing, using up the night in preparation for entering port in the early morning. The Rally has been warned of unlit fishing boats and their nets. Once burned, twice shy. Sahula is almost hove to awaiting first light.

The blue distant mountains of Timor give first land. Memories flood of the excitement and awe of a young cadet aboard the m.v. "English Star," sighting the red cliffs of the Horn of Africa.

Sahula anchors amongst the 111 yachts in Kupang Bay off Teddy's Bar. Her first overseas crossing is over. The sounds of vibrant, noisy Kupang replace the silent seas. The musical horns of the colourful bemos (taxis), motorbikes roaring, of endless people, of poverty, wealth and hussle. The crew suffer culture shock.

The freedom of the seas is replaced by a burdening bureaucracy.

Sahula must confront the needs of Indonesia's quarantine, immigration, port master and Customs. Each requires its own copies on copies of documents on documents, of visits on visits to Sahula. It pays to be patient. It's a new land.

There are needs to fulfill. Diesel, water and stores provide a challenge. The fuel has to be clean; water potable. Costs vary according to each hustler. Personal health is a constant consideration.

There is one major test. Customs inform each skipper that unless they are prepared to pay a huge duty, they cannot complete their work. Accordingly the whole fleet is impounded till further notice. Any moving of the yacht (not of the crew) will result in immediate impoundment and possible sale of the vessel. An elaborate "sticker" is placed on each hull to this effect. All transactions are with officers providing a lovely smiling, quite genuine, welcome. There is some consternation. A Rally rationale

included exclusion from the "duty". Decisions are being made in higher places. In Indonesia, the seemingly impossible is always possible.

The fleet is in an ebullient mood. Kupang is ready to welcome the fleet with a seemingly endless party. The highlight is the Governor's reception. A wonderful meal, regional food tasting stalls and a superb show (including the Governor's speech of welcome and a gift to all crew of a woven, shoulder worn, Ekat) of stunning traditional costumes and dancing adorning beautiful people. The skipper "traditionally" dances the night away.

The sounds of cocks, of calls to Islamic faithful, of cooking fires and smoke, awake each day. The culture shock wanes to acceptance. Indonesia is colourful, welcoming and an adventure.

The "duty" issue resolves on Sunday.

Sahula is here for a few days then voyages to Alor in the north eastern islands. Alor awaits with another rally reception.

A quiet calm bay with clear water and few people, beckons along the way.

Passage Report #11

Passage Report No 11

Sahula

Gove to Darwin

It's called the Hole in the Wall or more aptly the Gugari Rip. It's a narrow (some 50 metres), its deep and it squeezes massive volumes of tidal water between the rock cliffs of Wessels Islands, Guluwuru Island and Raragala Island. It's spoken of in awe.

Leaving Gove is in anticipation of the Rip. Specific guidance is given at the Gove Yacht Club. Vessels pass Cape Wilberforce and overnight at Wigram Island ready to transit the next day, on the top of high tide or during the first hour of the ebb.

Sahula arrived in company of two other yachts. She was the first to enter. Conditions were not as per "guidance". The Rip was some 6 knots or more in flood. Whirlpools and upwelling met Sahula threatening to turn her to the rock walls on either side... This was not "slack" water. Sails were insufficient, Tanya went into action, driving Sahula, twisting and turning, the mile to the end.

Selene of Norway was to transit tomorrow. We radioed that the "guidance" was incorrect. The next day 9 yachts passed through benefiting from Sabula's advice.

We'd earned a rest in Guruliya Bay an hour west of the Rip. A lovely place of blue water, white beaches and barren rock island. Sahula stayed two nights. The fleet came and went.

We "bushwalked" inland finding many "arranged stone circles." Lorraine "discovered" under spectacularly eroded coastal sandstone cliffs, numerous ancient hand "splattering" and paintings of fish, and human forms. Art marked time.

Sahula was now to pass over the "top" to Darwin in a series of day sails along the coast. There are two routes over the "Top"; one involves an offshore overnight passage. Sahula in post-Gulf mode was not attracted to that option. The "coastal" option is more risky. It involves day passages through shallow, shoal strewn, uncharted waters. Sahula opted for the adventure in calm water.

The first passage was to Gunawa Point bay on Elcho Island, a 7 hour sail.

The second was to Cape Stewart passing cautiously through a narrow passage between the Crocodile Islands. "Cautiously" because the chart proclaimed large areas as "uncharted" or containing shoals as "Rept 1900." (or thereabouts). The depth sounder is the sailor's best friend.

Each evening the day's adventure is muted by "sundowners" (wine and nibbles) against a spectacular sunset.

As well it was beautiful sailing with the ESE'ly coming from the land. The azure sea was calm, wind 15 -20 knots.

To cap it all, the new "Gove" lure secured a large tuna for dinner ('s). The deck was covered in blood before the fight was won. On a moving deck, just lifting aboard the luckless fish was a battle, let alone filleting it. Protein was the reward.

Each day between 0800 - 0900 (Darwin time) the Darwin Net (6516) provides contact with other vessels on passage across the "Top" and handy advice from their experiences. It will run throughout the Indonesian Rally.

Sahula's skipper has agreed to be a Net coordinator next week. A new experience and contribution to a marvelous facility run by yachties. There are many "nets" for particular marine areas that keep yachts in contact e.g. Coral Sea "Sheila Net" on 8161.

A "long day" (12 hours) sailing found secure anchorage at Cape Stewart then another to Mullet Bay, North Goulburn Island.

The latter passage involved Sahula almost becalmed and being swept to the rocks and shoals off Braithwaite Point. A late afternoon breeze and "Mollie" (MPS) kept water under the keel. However, the day extended to a moonless, inky night sail through the passage between the Goulburn Islands. Night sailing is not for the feint hearted in these waters. No actual sighting was made of the islands. Sahula was doing 8 knots with the tide. At midnight, grateful for the radar and GPS digital charts, Sahula anchored in Mullet Bay.

The Cape was on the Aboriginal Lands permit, but not Mullet Bay. It's exclusion raised the issue of "going ashore." Substantial fines ($2000) apply to offenders. Some crews proudly refused to get a permit, an act of "white" defiance. Others obtained a permit for the places they'd visit. This exercise requires pre-planning and time as the consent is required of each relevant Traditional Owner."

Sahula obtained a permit at Gove under new fast tracked arrangements for yachts in transit across the "Top." However, it was limited in scope. It meant in many places the crew was yacht bound.

It's impossible not to feel the aboriginality of this region. Arnhem land seemed to be the very cultural font. However, it was never more so than when Sahula anchored in Bowen Strait with Croker Island bordering one side.

Many years ago, the skipper met Mary Yarmirr, an elder of Croker Island's people. This tall, regal lady was leading the High Court battle for legal recognition over the waters surrounding her peoples land. The people won only limited rights to conduct their cultural activities not full possession. The low, flat, unimposing Croker Island, a few meters off Sabula's bow, these waters and the name "Yarmirr", became a legal artifact to be studied by generations of law students.

Morning had Sahula sailing to Port Essington. In contrast to the aboriginality, this "port" sort to establish a different culture, that of Europe. A beautiful harbour, Sahula sailed through it to the National Parks centre at Black Point and then onto the inappropriately named "Berke\ey Bay". She was there with eleven other, Rally bound, yachts.

Port Essington is proof of "mad dogs and Englishmen...." In 1838 a settlement, aptly named "Victoria," was established to defend the realm on the dry rock hard earth of Minto Head. A more pitiless place, one could not imagine for the overdressed English to "...go out in the midday (or any) sun." Yet there they built in "ironstone" blocks a Government House, a hospital, a wharf, soldier's quarters and homes. A little England in the heat and desolation. To atone for the "madness" some 50 souls required disturbing of that "iron" soil.

After a decade "Victoria" took "her" toll. The occupants work was simply abandoned to history.

Four days passed pleasantly in Berkeley Bay. Of particular interest to the foreign yachts were the crocodiles in the nearby creek. The skipper sighted a 5 meter monster. One was found basking on the beach. Swimming is a risky activity. It's reported they are also predisposed to inflatable dinghies, particularly small ones like "Zod," Sahula's link to shore. Olive (the 2hp outboard) was exercised at top speed. An act of delusion.

An azure sea, a blue, clear cobalt sky, a fair wind and white sails of the fleet all on coarse for Darwin from Cape Don. A day enhancing the myth of sailing. Rarely is it all so beautiful. A perfect occasion for photography. Kayitsiz III (Turkish yacht) and Sahula exchanged photographers as the boats sailed alongside flying headsails. Later with "Galiano" (NZ), Sahula exchanged photos of our spinnakers drawing.

When finally the wind died, Tanya took Sahula with Galiano and Kayitsiz III to anchor behind Cape Hotham. We were in no hurry to arrive in the city. We toasted the sunset aboard Galiano.

A light ESE'ly, an early start, and the fleet, next day, made good time through the Clarence Strait to Darwin. Sahula had arrived. She anchored in Fanny Bay with some hundred yachts. A spectacular sight.

An invitation to dine aboard the lovely 47 footer Pampero capped a marvelous sail from Gove.

So now two weeks of city life, rest, and valiant attempts to shorten the ever present list of things to do. Then on Saturday, 26th July, a short two weeks, Sahula sails out for her first foray into international waters to Kupang, West Timor in Indonesia.

It's marvelous to contemplate this amazing potpourri of Rally sailors. They range from an eighth month old baby, young children to twenties to retirees. They're aboard big luxury yachts to 28 footer. The average length is 42 feet. They're from Australia, New Zealand, Canada, USA, Austria, Switzerland, France, Germany, Netherlands, Turkey, South Africa, Japan and the United Kingdom. They're subsistence to wealthy, aboard mono hulls or multihulls, homemade to classy professional.

All set out in a mass fleet start on Saturday week for some four days sail across the Timor Sea to Kupang. There is a buzz afloat in Fanny Bay.

Life is never dull.

Best

David

Sv Sahula