Saturday 20 September 2014

Passage Report No. 106
Sahula
Port St Louis, Marseille, Toulon, Corsica to Palau, Sardenia


Crew is restless, sailing beckons. Tanya (engine) takes Sahula into the Gulf de Lion, "home" of the notorious Mistral so reputedly, the eastern Med's windiest waters.

Sail past a rock, cliffed coast to anchor in Grande Camaraque, Frioul Island off Marseille before a light NW. The Gods are smiling.



NW'lies prevail becoming the Mistral at times. The notorious Mistral determines all cruising in central Mediterrean seas. It flows out of the Gulf de Lion at some 30knots, raising short, steep, white seas. It affects west coasts of Corsica and Sardenia.

Skipper has digital weather reports (Passage weather - all Med, Meteorama.fr - central north Med, Digital 4D etc. All use grib files - a computer conceived report using arrows feathered to give wind strength.

Navtex also is aboard Sahula, providing weather updates for the region from shore stations in various Med countries.

VHF radio reports are only in French. Italian reports are in English but said to be difficult to understand.

French sailors, harbour masters are very helpful.

Crew leave Sahula at anchor to ferry to Marseille. Entry is between two forbidding castles into the Vieux (old) Port and its crowded marina and esplanade.


"...for many years the butt of French jokes. No more...it has had a vast makeover..." Lonely Planet.
Clean, old and modern, a centre of many cultures it is a fascinating city.


Ultra modern Musee des Civilisations de l'Europe et de Mediterranee contrasts the harbour entrance forts. It provides a well presented exhibition of life so long ago to the present.

"...on arrival in Tunis...I was marched to the ATM to pay the 200e visa fee..." (Australian sailors, Tina and Robert) "...we enjoyed Tunisia..."

Skipper ponders, no crew, visa issues, yet Africa beckons... decide later.

Sahula anchors surrounded by the white rock peaks of  Sormiou Calanque (inlet cum fjord), in the Calanques National Park. Long walks ashore trail up steep peaks, providing spectacular views to sea.



Wind increases, swings south west, dinghy on deck, Sahula, rocking, is ready for sea. Cautions (mast halyards (ropes) tied off) to ensure a nights sleep, in a place with weather, unknown. Local yachts seem unperturbed?

Calm anchorage off Ciotat with local yachts. All Calanques passed were crowded and rolly.

Sahula's anchor drags in seaweed. Skipper moves to find a sand bottom.

Anchors under red cliffs. Skipper works a watercolour. Crew sunbakes, swim in clear waters, snorkel, few fish. It is crew's last days aboard.

The Mediterrean's clear waters are due to lack of plankton caused by minimal tides or currents stirring nutrients. The lack of fish is due to few plankton and centuries of over fishing and shore pollution.
Crew's departure for Paris is nigh. Sahula moves to friendly, Toulon harbour marina (41e August - 33e in Sept).

Toulon harbours the French Med naval fleet (scuttled in WWII). It dominates the town. Crew find the city a pleasant, clean, old and new, culturally vibrant and properous, unlike its reported "...seedy, rough cut demeanour..." reported in Lonely Planet.



The 2006, Moet Chandon champagne celebrates a marvellous cruise across France and good times aboard for Father and Daughter.


"...we did it..." glasses click!

Last night, harbourside restaurant dinner.

Crew departs from the Gare (rail station). Skipper is alone. Sahula is a quiet place.

Skipper meets young French couple aboard their large yacht.

"...she is on the market...she isn't strong enough (for cruising)...we want one larger around, 57 foot (2.8 m draft) cruising yacht. Each to their own. Skipper ponders the delights of cruising denied (rivers, canals, small ports) and cruising funds used (buying, maintaining, marinas) on such an expensive craft.

"Go small, go simple, go soon" remains the basis of Sahula's adventures.

A force 7-8 Mistral is forecast. Sahula leaves for Rade (bay) de la Badine on Harbour Masters advice.

"...it is safe in any weather..." Mistral blows Sahula before a steep breaking sea to the bay.  Skipper awaits the arrival of daughter and partner, in a few days, in Toulon


.
Skipper sketches (watercolour pencil) cliffs surrounding a yacht wreck. Timely reminder of fate if anchor drags.

Crew, young Australian, Matt, signs on for Mediterranean cruise. CA crew site generates interest in being Sahula's crew across the Atlantic. Skipper is grateful for their interest.

Skipper opts out of North Africa cruise, for sailing from Sardenia to Balaeric Islands ( Menorca, Ibiza, Palma), Spain and Morocco. A study of the Australian Government Foreign Affairs advice, urges caution due to possible terrorism (Australian Govt Middle East policies set up Australians as possible targets), Algeria requires a visa prior to visit, bureaucratic Algerian port entry/ departure; are factors.

Skipper extracts, cleans (bleach) a flexible, water tank, changes engine oil/filter, red paints canal "bruises," fits new port/starboard running lights, "third reef" sheet, skypes friends and family.

Daughter and partner arrive, final shop, fuel, fresh water in. Sahula departs for Ile de Porguerolles to rendezvous with Australian yacht, "Kristiane."

"...we see you, come in now..." Wine filled glasses click; Skipper and crew are with friends who sailed with Sahula from Australia. Sahula may meet again in Spain.

A NW'ly forecast, full moon, Sahula departs early morning for Corsica some 116 nm. It will be crews first, long distance, overnight, passage.

Winds comes, goes, Tanya drives, sails (including Mollie (MPS/ spinnaker)) up, down; NW'ly sets 17-20 knots, lightening cracks to the east, mainsail down, calms, Tanya takes Sahula into Calvi, Sahula's Corsican port of entry.



Sahula enters the marina (43 eu (Sept)) under the massive, ochre stone walls of 15th century, Genoese, Calvi citadel and village. Restaurants, superyachts, line the wharf of a busy  harbour and vibrant tourist town.

Facilities ashore earn 2/10 - public (not private to yachts), no loo seat, small shower cubicles.

High over the harbour, proven invincible, the Citadel "...has seen off several major assaults...from Turkish raiders to Anglo-Corsican armies.


It houses parts of the French Foreign Legion administration. Established in 1831 by King Louis- Philippe to deploy in Algeria. Initially deploy in Crimea, Italy, Mexico. Currently, as a part of the French Army, the Legion serves in many fields overseas. Units distinguish themselves adhering to their oath to "...fight to the death..." They engender a "...powerful esprit de corps...military values..." as part of "...a family..."
Comprising 7200 men, 89% foreigners (150 nationalities - currently predominantly, Slavic and Balkan), legionaires can join at 17 with parently consent, older require only a simple statement of identity. It appeals to those who "...want to turn a page in their life...want a new start..." French is not required. It recruits some 800 from 8000 applicants each  year.

In a Citadel village square, Senegalese, Malick Sow and Bao Sissoko provide traditional, evening, music.

 In the village Cathedrale St Jean Baptiste, a male ensemble, sings, movingly, in perfect harmoy, 12th century, Notre Dame de Paris, chants.

Ruled by Pisa (to 13th C), then by Genoa till 1755 Corsican's declared independance. It was "shortlived," France crushed the insurrection (1769), and ruled to date with a short England rule between 1794-96. In 1960's, autonomy and later full independence movements, fought a violent insurrection which splintered into groups. "...few Corsicans...support the separatist movements. A 2003 "...greater autonomy..." referendum was ,narrowly, lost. Nationalism remains a "...burning topic..." mooted by the islands critical tourism economy.


Strong winds required the marina boat to push Sahula into wider waters. She departed in Force 5-6, expecting large seas. Instead, a low sea allowed Tanya to drive Sahula south along the coast.

"...there are yachts over there..." Sahula entered a sky blue bay - swim, lunch, snorkel.



"...Dad, the wind has dropped...other boats are leaving..."

Sahula, motor sailed south, past bays, engulfed by red, ancient weathered cliffs and receding blue, precipitous peaks (Monte Cinto 2700m - Corsica's tallest). The onshore wind ensures few anchorages.



Red turned to ruby, cedar, purple, as sunset found peaks and tortuously sculptured, volcanic, cliffs. Sahula sought shelter in Golfe de Girolata.

Girolata Castle guarded the entrance to the calm inlet of picturesque, Girolata village harbour (31eu on bouys).


Wine, pasta - life is good.

Sahula motors south against a 22 knot Westerfly in a moderate sea, to Golfe d'Ajaccio and anchors off a suburban beach.

Customs (third visit in France) come but not aboard as form from Port St. Louis is recognised by them.

A NE'ly sweeps Sahula south. Red cliffs change to white. Only a ferry entering defines Bonifacio harbour entrance. Sahula passes through a narrow entrance, between the cliffs and high ochre white, walls of the Citadel and enclosed village.


Huge, gleaming, white, superyachts, bows, grossly, jutting, English flags flying, crews scrubbing, dominate the long, narrow harbour inlet. Skipper wonders what owners have done to provide a better, more equal world?

The harbour boat guides Sahula to her berth. Bonifacio is two villages - lower and upper.

Narrow cobbled lanes wind through the Citedal village.



Wind is up, Sahula sails to Sardenia across the Bonifacio Strait, to the northern  group of islands in the La Maddelena marine park (50eu a day, 40% less if online permit).



Anchorage is in clear, blue water (few if any fish), sea grass and sand, islands pink, white rock. Anchorage is crowded with boats.

The prevailing SE'ly prevents access to many bays. Most bays have houses or a resort.

It is time for crew to leave. Sahula sails to Palau, ferry port for the islands (21e, all facilities 6/10).
Sahula is quiet. Matt, crew to Morocco arrives in two days.



Next Report: No. 107: Sardenia, Balaerics, Spain, Morocco.
Best
David
20/9/14

Saturday 6 September 2014

Passage Report No. 105
Sahula
Lyon to Mediterranian Sea


The Saone rises, racing in flood.

The Rhone, surges, boiling around its bridges. Two rivers joining.

Motor launch, bow wave curling, slowly, impatiently, seeking the seeminly impossible, battles upstream Saone.

Promenading lovers glasp, oblivious.

Lyon City life goes on.

Skipper contemplates departure: Tanya failing, anchoring difficult...patience, waiting...

"...there are trees coming down...

"... it is calmer in the wide Rhone..."

Overnight, dawns a calmer river. Sahula departs.

Futuristic architecture marks the farewell: Orange, Green facades to Musee of Lyon, silver, striking.



Sahula sinks into a deep, dark, dank, locked, canyon, lowered some 13-20 metres (floating bollards) - Rhone's largest lock.



First settled some 2000 years ago, subsequent first century Roman occupation established Vienne as a prosperous city in the image of Rome. Recently excavations and a Museum show its magnificance.



Nothing marks time passing more than to see the image and view so little.

Despite 3rd C destruction, Roman Empire decline, various invasions, the Revolution (Cathedral door icons are headless), the city remained important to this day.

Coffee in the square, overlooked by the incongruous ancientness of (well preserved - historically designated, a church), Roman (20-10 BC), Temple of Augustus and Livia.

Sahula, tied to the town pontoon (free), brown river, racing by, rolls due to passing barges, boats.

Barges, passenger ships, not pleasure boats, can navigate at night.

Cote d'Or passes; vinyards , green, yellow, sweep up low hills.

Vinyard, Cote-Rotie (red - "...a subtle bouquet of peppered violets and truffle...", ), oldest vinyard ("...forbids the use of usual mechanical means...") of the Cotes du Rhone, passes on steep river slopes.



Huge, stepped, white stone, quarries used over the eons to build the towns and canals, mark the vined hills.



A Nuclear power station, steam cloud rising, silently, ominously, white, providing (enriched uranium) means for civilizations end, in the Nation that nurtured its cradle.

Wind turbines slowly churn.

A bullet train streaks overhead (bridge).

Large dams raise the river, generating hydroelectric power, necessitate the huge bypass locks. Floating bollards, mournfully moaning, "sing" the lowering ballad of the cavernous (30m) lock; then a towering gate, a wet, black wall, rises, phoenix like, to admit light denied and the calm, silent, green, blue, river.




Past the 132 hectares (on steep granite slopes) of one of Frances's oldest (from Romans) vinyards, Crozes- Hermitage.

Competing for prominences, castles ruins, Virgin Mary's, war and peace, spike the blue sky.

Sahula berths at Valence L'Eperviere marina for supplies. Automatic fuel station denies the credit card.  (17.50 e).


Musee de Valence, art et Archeologie, beautifully presented art and artifacts.

Hector and Hermoine convey crew to nearby, Crussol Fortress, high above the valley.
"...it is the best castle (ruins) I've seen..." (Crew).


High white cliffs guide the wide, idyll, river, past steeples, cathedrals, monasteries, dominating, red roofed, ochre, yellow, villages, set in patchwork of rural, hilled, peace.

Vivers village pontoon is off river (calm), a kilometre from the hilltop town. It was a religious enclave, walled, a cathedral (France's smallest) surrounded by wealthy monks homes in narrow streets, dark alleys, overlooking the Rhone valley.



Past Chateauneuf du Pape, built, like a fortress, for Pope John XXII and appreciated by his two successorys, in the 13th C.



Ahead, on the flat river plain, rises the massive, medieval,  walled, Palace des Papes and Avignon village, set atop a rocky pinacle dominating the Rhone.



Amid Rome's, 14th century, political turmoil, Pope Clement V, fled, setting up his Court in Avignon.



His 7, French-born, successors, spent huge sums, adding to, redesigning, the original palace.

Ugly but imposing: "...the immense scale, cavernous stone halls and vast courtyards testify to the Papacy's..." misdirected "...wealth; the 3m thick walls, portcullises and watch towers emphasis their insecurity..." (Lonely Planet).

It tests imagination (aided by video guides) to conceive the "...former luxury of...vast, bare rooms..." adorned with ornate frescos, furniture, carpets and art; of, all consuming, Papal banquets, lavished in a sea of surrounding poverty.

There is more to Avignon: superb museums and art galleries, fascinating cobbled streets, imposing houses all within the city walls.

Across the river; across the 14th C., border between France and the Holy Roman Empire, the hill top ramparts (never saw battle as the Papacy left and the River moved 900 m away) of Fort St Andre and the royal Benedictine Abbey near Villeneuve les Avignon, rise, equally imposing, tempering Avignon's Papal fervour.



Skippers long past mentor Vincent Van Gogh beckons. Crew bus (7e return) to nearby, St Remy de Provence.

"...there are better than St Remy...it is full of wealthy Parisans who buy the houses..."

Van Gogh was there. A pretty town, as then, now breathing tourists and wealth. Crew visit the hospice where he resided before moving to another further out.

"...you should go to Baux de Provence...take the bus...there is an exhibition there...it is "real" Provence..."

Set in the rocky Provence hills, Baux's ancient cobbled lanes, houses white, red terracota roofed, cling, precariously, to cliffs. Atop, fort remanents ensured security. It seems impregnable, time immoveable. It seethes with tourists.



Below vinyards paint the plain to distant, Arles and the harbour cranes of Gulf de Lion, Marseilles and Port st Louis.

The piece de resistance is below, literally - in an ancient, massive, underground white stone quarry,

"Carrierres de Lumieres." Crew enter, unsure, into inky blackness, then the cavernous walls move to fabulous projections of Gustav Klimt, post impressionist (Austrian), art resonating to moving classical music - spellbound by the spectacular, brilliance of such art and its unique, wonderful, presentation.



In Sahula's wake Avignon, the Papal Palace slowly recede; past Tarascon's riverside fort, to Arles.

"...there are no berths in Arles...no marina...pontoon (damaged in floods) not replaced..."

Cruising Association notes suggest phoning the "La Peniche" restaurant barge for permission to go alongside.


"...of course... you are welcome..." Sahula is welcomed by a young French couple "...we will give you a key to the gate..." Superb meal aboard is a bonus.

Later, a Danish yacht berths, gratefully, alongside Sahula. A barge races by - admonished by the Restaurant owner - yachts roll.

Van Gogh resided in Arles. Crew walked to locations of his works now marked by copies. The "yellow house" he set up for he and Gauguin, the " Cafe Nuit - night restaurant", the bridge, river front, all are there. Foundation Vincent van Gogh museum displays works through his life.



Skipper reads Van Gogh's letters with his brother Theo. A intelligent, eurudite, sensitive, delightful, difficult, man, dedicated, single minded, to his art (which he began full time in his 40's), bedevilled by depression which, when on the cusp of recognition, lead to his suicidal death (after 10 years art). A true tragedy - one wonders what masterpieces would have been bequeathed if life continued in his artistic prime

To Theo, who supported his brother throughout, art owes a great debt. Beset by poor health, he passed on a few short years later. His wife to her great credit, ensured that the world gave long over due recognition to brother in law, Vincent.

"...art is jealous, she doesn't like taking second  place...to get the essence...one has to work long and hard...I am glad I never learnt  painting...I learned to ignore...recognise effects...I can say just what I want...if its impossible, it is impossible...I don't know how it is to be done...I look at what is in front of my eyes...I couldn't care less about reality...it isn't...derived from some student manner or from some system, but from art itself..." Van Gogh letters.

Crew attend a bull race in the 20,000 seat, Roman arena (1-2 BC). Select local males run as close to the enraged bull as they can to snatch, crowds cheering, a rosette from between its horns. A poor, bloodless, risky, relation to a bloody bull fight.



Sahula races to Port St Louis and the last lock. The cruise across France is ended.  Onto Naval Services to lift the mast and rerig for sea (free alongside wall (for five days - violent rolling due to passing barges), 100e crane, 150e rigger).



Sundowners goes upmarket, Champagne Belin adds to the celebration.



French sailors berth alongside Sahula. They generously, advise Skipper on the weather and anchorages on Sahula's cruise along the coast and to Corsica.

Mast up, rig set, sails up, electrics connected, tested, fresh water tanks cleaned, engine parts and tiller pilots checked and new one received, etc, etc. Sahula moves to Port St Louis marina (30 e all facilities).



Hector and Hermoine go to a good "home" for use by David and Betty (Florida, USA) cruising north along the Rhone.

After so long in the calm, inland waterways there is apprehension about voyaging the sea. It is time to go.

Next Report No. 106 - Port St Louis, Marseille, Toulon, to Corsica.

Best
David
sv Sahula
Toulon, France.