Passage Report 12

Darwin to Kupang, West Timor, Indonesia

Sv Sahula

It's beautiful under a silver moon on a sparkling ocean with cascading stars bright, loping towards Kupang across the Arafura/Timor Sea.

It's particularly so after some two weeks in Darwin. Darwin is a lovely city. It's small enough to be a town, large enough to have the facilities. However, it is a measure to the sailor that cities are irksome. Sailors enjoy space and a large measure of peace.

Traffic, buses, crowds stimulate but frustrate.

A lovely day swimming in waterfalls crystal clear pools at Litchfield National Park made for some release. The Parap and Milden Beach markets, maritime museum, art gallery, the old town, provided culture. The Darwin Yacht Club personified the innate friendliness of Territorians. 111 Rally yachts nestled in Fanny's bay with ruby red sunsets, had few complaints.

Fanny is known for her highs and lows. Her tides range some 6-8 metres making anchoring interesting.. Monohulls, frustratingly, were well offshore. Multihulls enjoyed their advantage. Particularly when a morning breeze tested the resolve of wet crews such as Sahula's, in small, 2 hp 2m inflatables. The Yacht club hot showers were never appreciated more.

So when 11.00 am Saturday, 26th July loomed the fleet was buzzing. Mainsails sped up masts. Mollie, Sahula's bright blue and white MPS joined other colourful sails in a sailing spectacle that would make ABC news.

Sahula lifted her skirts and sped across an azure Arafura Sea. She moved through the fleet until a lowering evening breeze meant she required Tanya's assistance. Her crew opted for much needed post Darwin sleep, impossible with the motor. The fleet motored over the horizon. Sahula hove to awaiting the Sunday early morning breeze.

Later, with all sails up and Tanya's assistance, she sped to join the fleet. Through the day "oil" again replaced ripples. Tanya assuming command till the late evening breeze gave some respite. For the first two days, calm to light breezes kept Kupang well in the distance. Shore birds glided over barely rippled seas.

Sahula has an attraction to birds. First there was Grace, the dove, (off Bribie Island) now Oscar the booby. He (?) signed on at dusk. He signaled his hesitant intention with long close up glides and flutters. Finally he took up residence on the edge of a solar panel. It was there he left his "signature."

Oscar is an odd bird. He is a seabird yet opted for the hard steel perch rather than the sea. Here, he is safe. All is quiet apart from the muted sounds of a ship rolling one hundred miles offshore. Oscar clearly knew where to rest.

The night "hove to" ensures Sahula an almost last position. "Almost" as at dusk two white triangles signaled company. The daily radio "position" schedule shows those at the head of the fleet being in Kupang a day or so before.

Two ruby red orange orbs and oily seas mark Sahula's days. Tanya is enjoying her full time use. The sails flap listlessly. Faith in the Wind God continues to ebb.

However, Kupang beckons; Tanya assumes night duties. Remarkably, the crew sleep regardless. Emails received on the HF radio give some respite but weather reports predict more of the same.

Night motoring has its risk. At midnight, while crossing the Sahul Banks, a new sound came into Tanya's repertoire. The log slowed to one knot. Sahula seemingly was unwilling to leave her namesake.

A torch over the side revealed a thin blue line leading to the rudder or propeller. Sahula was trapped in a fishing long line. Sahula's star still shined; the line could be reached and pulled aboard to be cut off. It was not around the propeller. Sahula was free, relieved and soon under way.

Sahula's "namesake is a place of monster oil drilling platforms, reefs and great geological contrast. The Sahul Banks rise to seven meters while immediately alongside the Timor Trench plummets to 3500 m.

It is the edge of "Sahulaland," an ancient landform, crafted before rising seas, of PNG and Australia. Similarly joined Indonesian islands were called "Wallacialand" and Asia "Sundaland". Fittingly, "Sahula" means "Australia."

100 miles to go. Trepidation and excitement are in the air.. It is the beginning. The chart marks Sahula crossing Indonesia/ Australia sea boundary. The first of many international and national waters Sahula will adventure in on her global travels.

One "orb" sets, another rises on a ruby day. Life is good. It feeds on contrasts. Great sailing and adventures are interspersed with great frustrations. A sailors "Theory of Relativity."

Sahula is in her final night at sea. The "rear" fleet is slowly coalescing, using up the night in preparation for entering port in the early morning. The Rally has been warned of unlit fishing boats and their nets. Once burned, twice shy. Sahula is almost hove to awaiting first light.

The blue distant mountains of Timor give first land. Memories flood of the excitement and awe of a young cadet aboard the m.v. "English Star," sighting the red cliffs of the Horn of Africa.

Sahula anchors amongst the 111 yachts in Kupang Bay off Teddy's Bar. Her first overseas crossing is over. The sounds of vibrant, noisy Kupang replace the silent seas. The musical horns of the colourful bemos (taxis), motorbikes roaring, of endless people, of poverty, wealth and hussle. The crew suffer culture shock.

The freedom of the seas is replaced by a burdening bureaucracy.

Sahula must confront the needs of Indonesia's quarantine, immigration, port master and Customs. Each requires its own copies on copies of documents on documents, of visits on visits to Sahula. It pays to be patient. It's a new land.

There are needs to fulfill. Diesel, water and stores provide a challenge. The fuel has to be clean; water potable. Costs vary according to each hustler. Personal health is a constant consideration.

There is one major test. Customs inform each skipper that unless they are prepared to pay a huge duty, they cannot complete their work. Accordingly the whole fleet is impounded till further notice. Any moving of the yacht (not of the crew) will result in immediate impoundment and possible sale of the vessel. An elaborate "sticker" is placed on each hull to this effect. All transactions are with officers providing a lovely smiling, quite genuine, welcome. There is some consternation. A Rally rationale

included exclusion from the "duty". Decisions are being made in higher places. In Indonesia, the seemingly impossible is always possible.

The fleet is in an ebullient mood. Kupang is ready to welcome the fleet with a seemingly endless party. The highlight is the Governor's reception. A wonderful meal, regional food tasting stalls and a superb show (including the Governor's speech of welcome and a gift to all crew of a woven, shoulder worn, Ekat) of stunning traditional costumes and dancing adorning beautiful people. The skipper "traditionally" dances the night away.

The sounds of cocks, of calls to Islamic faithful, of cooking fires and smoke, awake each day. The culture shock wanes to acceptance. Indonesia is colourful, welcoming and an adventure.

The "duty" issue resolves on Sunday.

Sahula is here for a few days then voyages to Alor in the north eastern islands. Alor awaits with another rally reception.

A quiet calm bay with clear water and few people, beckons along the way.