Passage Report No. 40
Return to Sigacik
Flying in a "cigar" with some hundreds of people, is not a criteria for good health. Neither is flying from climatic warmth to seemingly seering cold. Skipper was laid low by a virus. A winter return to Sigacik.
The Arctic steppes northerlies leaned Sahula to the dock. March, April passed. "...in two weeks..." say the locals it will be warm. Skipper emerged to prepare Sahula for departure. The deck was painted, varnishing completed, winches overhauled, new compass installed.... The "list" seemed in control if not a trifle shorter. Skipper found time to walk the wildflower covered Teos hills, to explore ancient Teos, to sketch and paint - "Olive Tree Lane," "Sigacik boats," "Teos Marina." Skipper pioneers a "bush" track through forest and farmland to the ancient city, Acropolis, theatre and bouleterion (small covered theatre or parliament). Much is lost to centuries old farms, soil cover and over growth. The Theatre seats were taken to build Sigacik's defensive walls. Teos city walls snaked 6 km to the harbour. The extensive remains of the Temple of Dionysis (God of Theatre) celebrate the thespian roots.
Skipper first sail of the season is in Yilmaz's "Sirene" (32 foot, Bavaria)., in wind and cold. Chai in picturesque Urla Harbour.
The artisans of Yagcilar - the hill side village, home to Sema (the "mermaid") and Serhat (the architect, model maker (6 foot Galleon), winemaker, sculptured each stone of Serhat's boutique hotel, looking out over the rural scenery. Skipper walked the forest tracks and village roads.
With Izmir friends, Binnur, Sevinc, Tulin, Mali, Skipper had breakfast in a country restaurant, lunch in the Bedelmer market (Alevi sect village with no mosque and centre of theatre), dinner in a Sigacik harbour fish restaurant. A typical Izmir Sunday of relaxation centered around food. Turks eat well and often. Food is the core of socialization and family.
The Teos Marina gains trees and plants. Sahula is nearing departure date.
Sahula did depart the concrete wall, dust and construction noise for a marina wharf.
Sahula had been moored near the workers barracks - males from Adana in S-E Turkey.
Sigacik will be glad they are gone. "We have put steel bars on our houses. There are now six police, where there were two..." Skipper's experience is contrary: no conflict, no theft, only friendly, contented people away from their villages and families working long hours for little pay. It is a privilege to know them.
The "list" determines departure. A rust check forward to aft, required some painting. Skipper found Oscar. His Eulogy read:
"Those of you who know Oscar - the Alanya "Houdini" rat - will be pleased to know he was discovered "soul-less (?) in Sahula's forward cabin. He has been buried at sea with full rat honours. Only bone and fur eating fish attended.
Some loved Oscar for his tenacity and spirit. He evaded the Alanya rat traps (eating finely tuned cheese), escaped (fur missing) sticky pads and Skipper waiting, rod in hand , but not rat poison.
He chewed Skipper's sea boots, sail bags and paper but sportingly upholstery, plastic hoses and electrical cables were not to his liking..
His soul rose to rat heaven. His earthly remains, remained, thankfully, odourless. RIP"
Sahula has had her yearly rust check - bow to stern. Not having fore and aft stringers ensures Sahula has minimal rust. Each hull material determines different maintenance regimes. Steel, while strongest, requires continual oversight. No material can claim the Excalibur. Fiberglass sooner or later requires expensive osmosis treatment (water seeps into the glass fibres). Skipper hears of some of the Red Sea rally fleet having expensive treatment in Turkey. Timber has dry rot and borers, cement has deterioration. All are frustrating. Steels major benefit is its hull integrity. With minimal through hull fittings leaks are rare. If steel leaks it is rust the cause and the welder the solution.
The future may be that of the "car": mass production, frequent model updates, short term ownership and warranted maintenance, It is for the wealthy few. Lesser souls buy second hand boats.
Yachts are "growing" in size. A marina survey shows the average length has progressed from 30 to 50 feet. Slim, sleek, hidden and speed, dictates design. The adage "go small, go simple, go soon" (Pardys) seems only for "lesser souls." "Simple" now means: water maker, bread maker, fridge, freezer, hot water, shower, pressure taps, air-conditioning, vacuum cleaner, washing machine and the growing accoutrements of touch button electronic navigation and a bow thruster - all requiring a built in, sound muffled, fuel powered, electrical generator Aesthetics dictate against solar panels and wind generators. Sustainability has been dethroned. Maintenance requires a third party and large bank account.
"Arwen of Bosham" (Bob and Jacky) pass through. The marina is evolving from a construction site to a yacht haven (it is free).
Skipper presents "Teos Marina", a colourful art work (canvas, acrylic) to Cuneyd (Marina manager) and Firat (Director). A plaque states "In appreciation of the kindness and hospitality provided ...during winter 2009-10." Skipper is informed the Turkish flag crescent is reversed. Skipper quickly repaints it. Turks are a proud people. The painting is to be hung in the marina office.
A week of cold northerlies. Skipper is restless. The Marina lift out crane requires repair. Departure requires a propeller shaft realignment and antifouling.
A respite. A day shopping in Izmir's colourful Kameralti (Konak) market bizarre. Ceaseless crowds writhe through the narrow, noisy streets, harassed by hopeful shop owners. Art supplies are inexpensive. Strangely watercolor is not sold.
Yilmaz (businessman and friend) prints Skipper's blogs in preparation for writing articles. His driver ( of many skills) arranges repair of Skippers leather boots and prints Sahula's "business" card. Skippers buys a pressure cooker (fuel saving?), reads the "Guardian" (UK) over pide (thin pizza), sips chai to watch the crowd go by.
Sunday market in Sigacik bring Izmir "tourists" to its walled, twisting streets. Signs mark other villages stalls. The matrons of Sigacik, dressed in the uniform of traditional flowery pants, top, scarf and jacket (proven best suited to working the fields) provide local food and crafts.
Skipper buses to Marmaris to attend a Cruising Association dinner and stay with Peter, Barbara and Wifi (electronically tagged cat) on Musketelle in Yacht Marina. Over a thousand yachts berthed "cheek and jowl", a fender apart and on hardstand. A yachting "caravan" park of stressed, "international", people. Skipper is thankful for winter in sparse, simple, hospitable, Turkish, Sigacik.
Sahula is the Marina's first lift out. Staff stop work to observe history. Old habits die hard - timber supports chock the hull preventing a full painting. The propeller shaft skeg is out of alignment. It is cut off and re-welded. Alignment requires a new propeller shaft. How long will it take - "Insallah" (it is with God).
Skipper applies anticorrosive, primer and antifouling paint. Black antifouling proves difficult to obtain. "Black - all boats in Turkey are Red or Blue!" Sahula changes to "Blue."
Workers query: "Is David aboard, the boats on sticks." "What about earthquakes?" Skipper tries to expedite the watery return.
The blue and red livery is lowered to the sea. But not before satisfying a celebratory tradition. Skipper provides Coca Cola and baklava for the hardstand workers.
Skipper imports an ultra light tent and rucksack from the USA. "I know because I live in Turkey" Dogan describes the customs bureaucracy. "I will come with you." Reminiscent of India, four times, a desk looks, another stamps and another checks the stamp and collects a fee. A "short" two hours. Dogan guides a thankful Skipper. Goods valued over 150 Euros pays 20% tax, customs and other fees. Skipper is determined to go lightweight trekking.
Lawn adorns the Marina gardens. Palms struggle for life. The swimming pool is complete. The workers fade away to an uncertain future. All is silent. The Prime Minister is due to cut the ribbon.
Sahula is to live free, continue her cruise in the Aegean. Warm winds, clear skies; it is time to go.
Next Report: Sigacik to Greece
Best
David
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