Report No. 45
Karacasogut to Bodrum
March 2011
Farewell, Karacasogut and friends. Sahula must away, the Danube calls. Metin, crew joins Sahula to Yat Lift boatyard, Bodrum. 30 knots rain squalls render the Yankee headsail to strips.
It has seen good service over 10 years. A new sail is ordered from Yelkenbicer Sails, Izmir (1400 Euros - UK Sails: 2100 Euros).
It rains - rains, hail, thunder and lightening - southerly storms. The "interior list ensures work carries on. New 240 volt external plug, circuit breakers and plugs. New Victron battery charger is installed but returned to manufacturer, New fuel tank installed for Kaelsa diesel heater - heater fails to work - again (awaits Izmir agent). New SW engine valve, new waste tank - the expense builds, knowing work in Turkey is less expensive that Europe.
New equipment aboard unsettles the routine. Invariably, a reaction of problems (challenges!) follows installation.
Dealing with Turk businesses is potentially fraught with frustration. The root cause is communication. Many Turks speak limited English but refuse to acknowledge the limits. A "yes" may mean "no" or "not understood" - conversations seemingly understood, result in little, no or the opposite action. "Inshallah" (now, today or tomorrow) pervades - doing seems to be at workers behest, not client. Emails confidently sent, have little or no effect.
It is critical to speak through a well versed English speaker and to follow up. The heater "expert" in Marmaris, failed to turn up four times. Finally, he was found to be at the Istanbul Boat Show having given an undertaking to work aboard - or seemed to! Skipper was told "it is important to his business."
Yat Lift staff (two ladies speak excellent English) and workshop makes for a pleasant stay. The yard is part of the huge shipyards (70-100 foot "gulets") and building village of Icelmer, a short dolmus ride to Bodrum. Combined with the Bodrum Sanayi (light industrial area), everything can be bought or made.
Sahula's bottom is antifouled; the feathering propeller greased and the lift in crane breaks down. Good can come of bad. Skipper notes the Aries windvane has a critical loose part. It is fixed with the help of an English sailor, Kevin, and she is returned to the sea. A new valve leaks and is fixed on the spot - Sahula doesn't want to leave?
Skipper rigs the never used "genoa." A small, acutely cut "yankee" unfurls in its places - the "genoa" is an illusion! Skipper is mystified - sure that a genoa was aboard. The new heavy cloth, yankee, staysail and main remain the working sails. Mollie, the MPS (multipurpose sail or spinnaker) fills in light weather.
Friend Yilmaz says "no need to rush", Dogan cautions "The Aegean can be dangerous." The Poseidon Weather website predicts a weekend "window." Time marches on, Sahula has to be in Istanbul to collect crew on the 28th March. Time is the anathema of cruising. The hoped for, two day, relaxing, art painting, at anchor will have to wait.
Sunny, cool spring day, building winds ((16-24 knots), Sahula motor sails to Bodrum Marine fuel station (4 TL ($2 AUD) per litre ensures Skipper pays for Arab cries for freedom!) and onto Cumulus - a picturesque, ancient harbour and village. At anchor, she awaits calmer weather.
It is a strange feeling again riding Sahula, besting the wind and sea. Always after a long time ashore or tied to, there is apprehension in setting off again. "Setting off again" is a recommitment to the unknown of boat, weather and adventure.
Skipper, out of the elements behind the doghouse and plastic protectors, rugs up to enjoy the sail. Many yachts have no cockpit protection, which may explain why Sahula is alone sailing north, in the sunny, cool (cold!) of spring.
The Danube odyssey begins. Sahula makes for Sigacik, Tanya (engine) pushes to get there. A northerly change threatens. An anchorage at Tekagac inlet and through the Samos Strait to confront the Northerly to Sigacik.
It is Sunday. "Welcome back to Teos, Sahula." Friends tie up. On the wharf is Ozkan, Suzie, Cuneyd and Savas - going to Kayitzis III for chai. Skipper soon is there. It is good to be here.
A hot shower - "We owe you one - from when you used the workers shower (often cold!) and toilet" Kindly, Teos is free. Sahula is the "foundation" yacht of Teos Marina. Staff and Cuneyd are good and welcoming friends. In the village as well, friends (shopkeeper, restaurant and bakery) give a "welcome back." Skipper feels part of a community.
"It is a shipyard" - Cuneyd and Savas are modelling yachts and boats. A large model of Kayitzis III is underway. Skipper donates Sahula's hull line drawings. A model may be made in a year or so.
Skipper sees Seferishisar dentist, Koray. Ozkan assists in providing Sahula's list. Skipper goes to Seferihisar and Izmir for listed items. Battery charger is installed. The new Yankee is set and delivered - looks excellent. Sahula now has all "new" sails as from Townsville.
Yilmaz assists as well ("you are part of the family") and Skipper visits the Konak and Kameralti bazaar. A boat list and crew list is copied under advice for Danube officialdom. The impossible is possible with such friends.
The heater is first fixed then broke down again. It is an impossible task. Skipper faced with having to leave and no time to test, adds a German heater and sends the Turkish original back to Ankara HQ. Ankara refused to repay. Instead they send another new heater - to Istanbul.
Superb two days at Yagcilar at Sema and Serhat's mountain retreat. "You are part of the family."
Sahula must leave. Farewell good friends - Sigacik, Izmir, Yagcilar and Urla - thank you! Skipper leaves with sadness, fulfilled with superb memories. "I shall return" - Sahula must sail on but Skipper will be back.
A farewell on the quay, lines let go - Sahula motors out to sea. A thrill whistle, signals waving worker friends - a last farewell. Istanbul beckons.
Next Report: Sigacik to Istanbul.
David.
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