Passage Report No. 75

Norway: Lindesnes to Stavanger

Sahula is going to brest the Northerly. Crew's departure date looms.

Sahula moves to Lillehavn; a small, picturesque, fishing port close to the cape. From the Lindesnes lighthouse, the sea runs white but not large. It is time to go.

Early morning, Sahula rounds the cape. Tanya drives on. By midday it is a 30 knot gale. Two reefs and staysail, tacking across a broken sea, water streaming across the deck, Skipper opts for a refuge.

Rekefjord beckons (not in Lomax guide - a chart marked anchorage). Calm welcomes Sahula. The inner "sanctum," past the huge mine (ileminite), welcomes Sahula to the quiet, peaceful, guest wharf with excellent facilities (125 NK) with "guest" cycles.

A hot shower - bliss. Skipper and crew set off, cycling for supplies and a mountain trek (Hellenerskeis) up and across grey, glaciated peaks, deep green forests, lakes and fjord vistas.

 

Moderate winds and seas replace yesterday’s gale. Sahula berths in Tanager (100 NK - pontoon) - past busy, offshore oil facilities to a quiet, white, fishing port.

Wine, crisps - celebration. North cruising is in the continuing skajaegard.

Norwegian cruising friends (met Darwin - Indonesian Rally, 2008) welcome Sahula with a huge red, garden flower, strawberry punket and "brownies" (cooked by twin daughters).

"I will show you the fjords" - a long mountain trek to Pulpit Rock (Preikestolen), high above the Lysefjord. The "pulpit" (huge square rock) projects out over the fjord which, far below, winds between vertical, grey, blue, mountains into the emerald, turquoise, green, blue, gorged, end. Many walkers enjoy Norway's most iconic view.

The cruising friends "taxi" is invaluable. Skipper has "Hazel" (Honda outboard) checked and passed to go. Computer shops are searched for a screen in the cockpit relaying the digital charts from the computer below. A chandlery provides boat parts (floatation "horseshoe" fitting was broken on entry to a "box" berth in Denmark); well stocked food mall provides supplies.

Host and Skipper visit the art gallery and Stavanger's old city heart. Four, huge, cruise ships (8000 passengers) dominate the mid-city port.

Skipper juggles potential crew - when will they join and where?

Skipper will be solo till end of June then friends’ crew till the end of August or September. Sahula will press on north to above the Arctic Circle to the Lofoten Islands then return.

Southern Norway Skajaegard experience - passaging amongst the myriad of islands - has proven invaluable for the north. Rock, islands, skerries are well marked. Macsea digital charts prove accurate and sufficient. Skipper also uses the Guide (Lomax), Norwegian guides and detailed paper charts. Calm channel seas provide passages in strong head winds.

Weather reports are on HF and VHF. VHF coastal coverage is provided by "extenders" on offshore oil rigs. A “dongle” (500 NK) provides online weather reports.

Charts provide anchorages (marked by anchor icons) as well as guides. Skipper marks these on paper charts for optional use. Harbours provide well marked entry. Guest wharf or pontoon berths (green markers indicate availability amongst private berths) and facilities (electricity, washing machines - extra) are nearby.

Shopping is first class. Careful food shopping is not overly expensive.

English, spoken by everyone, ensures a friendly, open, welcoming, camaraderie.

A new computer, screen is found to extend the downstairs digital chart computer into the cockpit. An essential item for solo, digital chart, navigation in the Skajaegard.

Skipper joins cruising friends visiting a farm, high in the alps and fjords.

A “bug” lays Skipper low for a day before departing for Trondheim. A Scots friend will join Sahula there.

Skipper farewells cruising friends and their superb hospitality.

Next Report: Tanager to Trondheim

David

11^th June, 2012