Passage Report: 79

North in the Lofotens; south to Bodo

It had to happen - a SW'ly gale; wind and rain for two days then a hoped for N'ly change over a week of sunshine.

Sahula is at anchor in Moskenes harbour. Skipper is having time out: updating the blog, finishing a watercolour sketch, shopping, and visiting the village market.

Skipper had his first whale meat "wrap." Sorvagen and Riene villages harbour Minke whale hunters.

Sorvagen claim to fame is its past as the base for Lofoten telecommunications. Its museum records the impact on islands and fishing boats of wireless communication. Fishing fleets fish catch increased 25%.

Skipper compares the original bulky radio equipment to modern smart phones.

Skipper is ready to go. Hilda (outboard) is off Honey (dinghy) is on deck. Sahula seems closer to shore. It may be the anchor chain is at full stretch in the strong wind. The alternative is to go to nearby Sorvagen harbour. Australian crew arrive today so staying is more convenient. A watching brief is kept.

The ferry is late. Crews welcome is wind driven, cold, rain after weeks of sunshine. Crew is father and son. Father rests, reads; son and Skipper sail Sahula.

Cloud wafts the Lofoten peaks. Stromoy (Lomax, 222) - provides a wild and beautiful anchorage. A sea eagle swoops, fishing. Crew trek to nearby summit.

(*)

Henningvaer (Lomax, 224) is Lofotens "gem." Formed by low islands and a backdrop of "high craggy mountains," it is a working fishing village and adventure centre (trekking, rock and mountain climbing). Guest haven wharves (150k, no facilities) are a short walk to town. Karl Harr art gallery is superb (65K).

(*)

Trollfjord is iconic. Vertical rock walls guard a narrow passage between snowed, soaring, peaks.

Anchorage between nearby islands viewing cloud peaked mountains, is Sahula's Lofoten last. It joins those places where nature's craft leaves an indelible memory.

Sahula will go no further north.

Across the Vestfjord (12nm), Hamaroya Island harbours Straumshamn. Sahula anchored in a crystal clear, sandy bay. Crew went trekking to view the Hammershaft; a near vertical, sharpened, rock peak. Upon the return the lady was seen to "bare her bottom" - Sahula laid upon her bilge, portholes submerged; inside gear tumbled, loosened by a 45 degree tilt. Skipper had ignored the tidal range. Memories of similar in the Sandy Straits (Fraser Island, Queensland, Australia) provided assurance.

Ashore crew awaited the moon to turn. A BBQ, sausages, fire baked potatoes, turned cold frustration, to warm enjoyment.

"We should have done this regardless."

Sahula, chastened, departed for a deeper anchorage.

Kjerringoy, once a major trading, fishing village (now a museum) with summer residences, marina (200K, no facilities) and substantial art gallery (Eric, Eva Harr and other northern Norway artists). Established in the 1800's, its economic nadir was fostered by a shallow harbour that provided rowed and sailed fishing boats with sandy beaches to pull onto; motors heralded its decline. Elisabeth, as manager in late 1800's, daughter of deceased owner, assured its prosperity and notoriety in a male world.

"Exodus", welcomed Sahula to Bodo marina (150k overnight; 30k: shower; 50k: washing machine or dryer; fuel: 10.50 k). Her crew had sailed to Senegal from their home near Bodo and, returning, met Skipper in Holland (2011).

"I have enjoyed Scandinavia, I may, next season, cruise to Sweden, Finland, Russia and the Baltic states."

"Would you like (on loan) our Sweden, Denmark charts?"

Exodus sails, north, into the rain.

Australian crew depart; a superb week ("...seemed a month...") through Lofoten to Bodo.

Sahula returns to silence. A SW gale blows wet. Time to rest and prepare (charts, food, fuel, water, washing, engine oil change etc, etc.) for the solo voyage south to Oslo, Sweden and Denmark.

"Roslin" - Norwegian yacht, Australian and English/Norwegian crew - swaps Australian flags - larger for Sahula (Skipper, a republican, flies alongside, the "Boxing Kangaroo).

Skipper notes that the Bruce anchor is near universal on local yachts. "...no good if a hard bottom..." Anchor runs over soft, large, weed till slips, secure, through to sand.

Cockpit protection canvas is only in port; unzipped at sea.

"We must see the sails."

Wet weather gear only protects crew from cold, rain and spray. Sahula covets her cockpit covers; sailing or in port.

Being destroyed by WWII bombing, Bodo arose, architecturely, as a modern city - northern Norway's largest (50,000). Suburbia is largely, individual houses rather than apartments.

Skipper visits Galleri Bodogaard - a family gallery of local northern Norway artist, Oscar Bodogaard - "artist of light."

Bodo Aviation Museum, spectacularly, houses Norway's major flight history.

Skipper skypes daughters, home on a small world.

Forecast is sunshine Friday for Sahula's departure.

Next Report No. 79: South: Bodo to Bergen.

Best

David

25th July, 2012