Passage Report: 82

Oslo to Goteborg

A light SW'ly - Sahula motors down Oslo Fjord to anchor in  Sandspollen inlet (near Drobaksund where German warship "Blucher" lies (explosives remain), sunk by Norwegian shore guns in WWII).

Weather pattern is various, fine, calm to strong evening winds. Through Hanko passage to the Hvaler islands.

Sahula leans to the morning gale funnelling between the islands. Sea whipped white.

Concerned crew relaxes; anchored securely in peaceful, Holtekilen inlet (Kirkoy island). Swans, gracefully, pass.

 

Goodbye Norway, hello Sweden.

Sahula enters the pink, rock, bare, islands of the Bohuslan "skargard" (islanded coast). Until the 17th century, a part of Norway. Norwegian yachts abound.

 

 

"The Norwegians come here; holiday, buy houses; they are cheap to them, they have more money..."

Winds increase, Sahula cruises amongst the islands, through Gravesund, a historic fishing village, lining the channel, to the open sea. Waves roll in, exploding on island rocks. It is late, rough and crew concerned, Sahula returns to the village wharf. A relieved crew enjoys superb home hospitality with local sailors.

 

 

 

Crew buses to meet Sahula in fishing village, Grebbestad: cobbled streets, neat, quaint, white, timber, houses.  Street windows frame model sailing ships.

 

 

Skipper and crew rest in the local cafe and bakeri.

"I'm going to Australia next month..." - young blond waitress.

 Again, Scandinavian hospitality is superb. Sahula leans from the wharf; winds blow, rain.

"You don't want to go out today... better tomorrow..." - local fisherman. Music to crew.

Weather delays dictate crew's departure. Local sailor (cruised Atlantic to Carribbean) drives crew to station for the Goteborg train.

On way: "...those mounds, a viking burial ground..."

Weather breaks fine, solo, Sahula meanders through islands, fishing villages (now white, summer homes, blinds drawn, boat at wharf, outdoor chairs, lawn mowed; eerily, deserted for winter), narrow, beautiful channels. Through Hamburgsund, Sotekanalen (canal with opening bridge).

Wind increases: Sahula anchors in Larvik inlet. Skipper walks national park forests and rocky peaks.

"Those rock mounds on the peaks, they're viking burials..." - local. Skipper explores the area finding what  seem to be ruins of "villages", many mounds, rock lined paths, roads."

Through Marstrand village channel - "the centre of Swedish sailing" - lined with deserted yachts and expensive houses, apartments.

Evening gale - "...it is east, it never blows east..."

Swedish marinas accommodate yachts in "boxes" - bow too with two poles holding the stern. They are difficult to engage for solo sailors. Skipper opts for a wharf in Bjorko island marina for the last evening in Sweden.

Sahula must forgo Goteborg. A forecast Northerly must be taken for the passage south, across the notorious Kattegat to Denmark.

Next Report: Sweden to Denmark to Germany

David

22nd September, 2012