Sahula Passage Report No. 88/2013

Gotland to Stockhholm

Sahula’s, post –Gotland, anchorage is on the Blue Coast (Bla Kusten – Central Coast). The thousands of small islands (Skargard) and rocks, make for superb cruising and hazardous navigation.

Sahula has full "hard" chart sets that complement the computer charts. The helmsperson follows the GPS "Sahula" along the computer’s red line, double checking the course on the hard chart.

At times, a slight of finger, has rendered the screen black. A perilous result if in rock close quarters.

Rocks evidence is water colour, disturbance and a rapidly decreasing depth. Caution is the game, slowly applied. Some passages are one boat width; they threaten bilge and keel (shallow). Tanya (motor), a furlable headsail provide for speed plus quick action. The Skargard tests all assets and abilities. It challenges the most able, unnerves lessor souls. It stretches from the Blue Coast to north of Stockholm, the Aland Islands and the Finn coast to Helsinki.

"…there are two types of (Swedish) sailors, those that have hit rocks and those that will…"

"…keep to the course line (on Charts), there are many rocks…"

For three, summer, months (June, July, August) Scandinavias massive fleet, sail and enjoy watersports.

Skipper muses:

"Pine islands, rock - passing pink.

Seabirds whirl, stately swans,

Evening cool.

Yellow, orange, pink, grey.

Mirrored calm, reflects passing, arrowed geese.

Last night sounds.

Ashore, pines, in thick peat greens,

white bells carpet below ashen algae branches,

Deer, hare, birds.

Trees, in autumn bloom, budding, stark, tall,

silent sentinels,

darken,

An earthly quiet.

Above the murmur of a thousand islands nocturnal seas,

the mast light joins the stars."

*****

"Winter was late this year, two weeks ago, we had 30cm of ice on the harbour…"

Crew leaps from Sahula and shore cliffs – the split second wash.

Crew craves city life – Stockholm, so close,

Nykoping train beckons.

The narrow, dredged, river passage passes, close to reeds and wading birdlife, to a "Gasthamn" (guest harbour) berth (250 SEK).

 

The castle ruin dominates the flood foaming river – notorious King Birger (1317) invited his feuding brothers to a "peace banquet," promptly, consigning them to starve in the dungeon.

In contrast to nearby heavily industrial Oxelosund, Nykoping offers the quiet sophistication of an historic town and scenic river and forest walks.

Skipper solos through the Skargard to Ranohamn, a quiet cove on Rano Island, a day from Stockholm.

Island holiday homes, some multi storey with round towers, are larger nearer the city.

Sahula anchors in the entrance to the Baggensskaget, a narrow (one boat width), shallow - 3m), channel, "backdoor" to Stockholm. Ashore is a classic, grand, "yellow ochre, orange" summer home; above, a memorial to Russian invasion fears and fort.

 

 

Wasahamnen Marina (150 K under 12m, facilities inclusive) offers Stockholm's most central berth.

The grand edifaces: palaces, state buildings, spires and towers, create around the harbour, a cityscape of Parisian proportions. High rise is outside the old city.

The Vasa museum is next door - a superb exhibition of 17th century maritime life, centered on the "reborn" Kings naval ship, "Vasa." Ornately adorned in coloured and golden, sculptures, the largest fighting vessel of the realm, she set sail with minimal crew - to a light breeze, sails filled, hull heeled, (previous tests indicated instability. The King required his ship) waters gushed through the lower gun ports - a disaster - drowning sailors, to settle, upright, fully rigged, in 30 m, some 800 m from the dock. There she remained three centuries, a 17th century marine history trove, in good order (timber consuming Toledo worm do not exist in the brackish Baltic seas), till raised, proudly, to finally rest from where she sailed.

17th century ship building lacked a theoretical base. Vasa, the largest vessel yet built, was a ship builders "experiment" - too narrow, too little ballast. A subsequent vessel, a metre wider, sailed for 30 years.

People, friends enhance cruising. Swede friends invited Skipper and Crew to dinner then to the SALT (Soprano, Alto...) Choir concert and 10 year Anniversary Dinner/ Dance. Skipper danced to the "wee small hours."

Skipper and Crew were also wined and dined by other Swede friends. Both events highlighted Swede family and social life.

Gamla Stan, narrow cobbled, bohemian, streets between massed, canyons of 17 -18th century buildings, is Stockholm's "old" city, grouped around the huge, Royal Palace.

Skipper returns to Stockholm in August. Many exhibitions and museums only open in June.

The Stockholm Archipelago is the marine "city" playground. Sahula passed through narrow passages, anchoring two nights in beautiful coves.

"...you'll need a guide book..." but not so (Guide charted only some "natural harbour" anchorages), Sahula anchored when whim determined, chart and caution provided. Walks ashore through pine forests, layered in peat and wild flowers, were superb.

Sahula final anchorage on Ido Island (enclosed pool, 1.7 m at entrance, 2.5m at anchorage) was in "pea soup" dense fog. Large ferry's moaned their fog dirges.

Fog delayed Sahula's departure the next morning for Mariehamn, in the Aland Islands.

Next Report: Aland Islands, Finland to Helsinki.

Best,

David

22/05/13

Sweden.