Sahula
Soane, Rhone - Downhill to Lyon
224 km and 114 locks, Sahula is free, Skipper relieved, it is done. The slow, graceful Saone beckons Sahula to Lyon. Relatively few locks, the current (1-2 knots, more in flood)carries Sahula (6-9 knots), villages pass.
Cruise boats, large barges, passenger boats, canoes, skiers, fishers, holiday families, the detritus of use, replace the canals, peaceful solitude with a busy river.
"...we ran aground down river..."
"...10 years ago, we went up the canals to Switzerland...not now..." (large motor boat.)
The ramparts of Auxonne (13 - 16 C), heralds its military role. The Garrison barracks held ambitious, Lieut. Bonaparte, 18 years in 1788. His time here and Valence, the chaos of Revolution "...marked the beginning of the great saga of Napoleon..."
A bronze statue shows him quietly reading.
Skipper reads Napoleon's biography: raised in middle class, rebellious Corsica, his family survived playing local politics, later due to Corsican civil war immigrated to France and poverty. Luck and opportunity, backing the right person, noticed for new military tactics (quick manouvres outwitting a ponderous Austrian army), he rose quickly in the chaos of post Revolutionary France. He understood politics, the need to keep all ranks in support. A passionate republican, astute administrator (meritocracy, civil law code), he espoused democratc principles yet became a self crowned Emperor, war monger, of a European empire - his was an edifice that ignored the philosophy and principles that he is was reading so long ago. It is another case of "if only." He was fated to fall after a battle to far (Waterloo) and banned to die on remote Atlantic, St Helena.
Throughout France, Napoleonic mythology ensures his historic place. Joan d'Arc and Napoleon are constant threads in many village squares and Cathedrals.
An English "colony," ("...they even have English clubs there...we left...no one speaks French..." Dutch canal boat) the marina at St Jean de Losne, winters the expatriot fleet. Sahula overnights at Blanquart's friendly marina. (shallow, 10e all facilities, w/mach, chandlery, fuel).
In Musee de Canal, an iconic photo: Old, wizened lady, strapped, leaning, strained, proud, pulling a barge, husband aboard
Painting of labourers, peasants, (17-18C) digging a canal, watched by overseers; immaculate uniformed officers.
Past ancient Seurre, "...a small town whose origins go back to 5th BC...on the border...many battles in the 15th to th 17th C's. Several times burned down (1473, 1543)...was the last Burgundy stronghold to resist Louis XVI...besieged it in 1650 and 1653 before ordering demolition of its walls...after many vicissitudes it once again became a peaceful town..."
Sahula edges towards lock entrance, "...can you see any in there...", a large commercial barge surges out passing a seeming metre; lesson learnt!
Marina staff assist Sahula to town pontoon, Chalon sur Saone (20e, all facilities)
Gardens, history, heritage and Festival de Art de la Rue (Street Arts) ensures Sahula stays two nights.
Ancient streets, crowded, ring with sound of street theatre - musicians, puppets, theatre - crowds cheer each performance.
French theatre, mime, performance, transforms into an international language.
Crew follow the crowd to the town square, a tall crane looms above, it is dark, white angels, red opera singer, standing, towering (on special bikes) illuminated, moving through. High above a lone violinist illuminated in white, astride a white bicycle plays to heaven.
Then, in a spectacular "son e Lumière," bicycled angels, opera singer, violinist ascend to superb classical music accompanied by an opera crescendo, lighted in a spectacular fireworks display.
Crowds cheerng, acclaim the superb performance.
Musee Nicephore Niepce: superb photography exhibition to its inventor. Musee Denon: beautifully displays artifacts of an ancient region and 17 - 19th C, French/ European paintings.
Between Challon and Macon, Tournas is "...where the Saone leaves the pointed roofs of northern Burgundy to flow amid the concave tiles of southern French regions..."
Its 6 - 9th C monastery, ancient streets are easily accessible from the town pontoon (free). Passing barges make for lively mooring.
Macon, capital of the Burgundy region (central pontoon (free no facilities)), founded in the 3 C.
"...there is a horse display at 1400...rain may stop it..." Tourist Bureau.
Out of the Hotel de Ville, three horse adorned Englishmen, trot two legged "horses" into the square. Their hilarious, unexpected, performance delights the crowd.
Sahula cleaves the faster river.
"...we rose a metre last night...rain in Saar and tributaries...it has passed through..." Crew oblivious.
Ahead a town of the river bend - its cathedral precarious - a mother hen, amongst it flock, grasps the curving river bank.
Sahula stops for lunch (pontoon, free).
Trevoux, "...Capital de Dombes...", claimed independence (until 1762) and, uniquely, its own Parliament. The Residences, canyon, cobbled streets and Cathedral seemingly "hang" over the River.
Its streets rise to a hilltop castle remnant. It was "...a prominent intellectual centre...it's paper criticised Voltaire for many years..."
Sahula phones ahead to book a berth at the Confluence Marina in Lyon.
The river surges, bulges, swiftly flowing, caught between the walled shores of Lyon - France's third largest city. It is a spectacular entry; winding between between high cliffs and storied, heritage, apartments, white, red, blue, ochre and chateaux, they line the river. Sahula passes beneath low, arching, bridges, under the watch of the hilltop, Fourviere Basilica and promenading citizens.
Sahula enters the basin at Lyon Confluence - a huge, ultra modern redevelopment of an industrial area.
The new (2 years), totally protected, off river, friendly, marina is within it, on pontoons (14e all facilities, shops, transport).
Lyon is a proud, vibrant, pleasant, bubbling, metropolis ("Addicted to Lyon"), of excellent museums, large squares and gardens. It is a city of two rivers, of Roman (large forum and arena) to modern heritage. It is the capital of silk and synthetic fabrics and an artistic and cultural center "...nourished by a privileged...location...where the Saone joins the Rhone..." It is also, an industrial city. There is much to do.
The Musee of Beaux Arts houses a superb collection of Egyptian artifacts (In 1790's Napoleons invading army, confident of victory over Egypt was accompanied by contingent of scientists, archeologists, directed to assess its culture (and "rape" it)) and 20th C, Impressionist/ post Impressionist, art.
Skipper will stay here for a week while Crew visits Chamonix.
Mooring is available along the city river walls where barges allow space. However, a rain fed, surging, river can rise metres.
Sundowners (drinks) aboard a NZ launch. "...we only live summers..."
"...we had a barge...now a dutch canal launch...more space easier handling...one engine..."
Next Passage Report No 105 Lyon to the Mediterranean.
Best
David
sv Sahula
Sept, 2014.
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